• 복식
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• 제59권4호
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• pp.26-40
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• 2009

The custom of the flag sticked in a military cap involves the symbolic mark. That is, it makes the procession of an army clear and makes the convenience of activity possible. This custom was uniquely practiced at several countries. At Il dynasty($1258{\sim}1411$), Timurid dynasty($1369{\sim}1508$), Mughal dynasty($1526{\sim}1858$) was succeeded this custom by based on blood relationship for $13th{\sim}16th$ century on the diachronic viewpoint. And these countries have cultural correlation by regional paradigm, namely Islamic cultural area. Meanwhile, this custom of Ming dynasty and joseon dynasty appeared in $15th{\sim}17th$ century as official system. Expecially, one of joseon dynasty maintained for a short time than other countries because of jangpyo[章標] system which was more efficient than the sticked flag. On the synchronic viewpoint, this custom was the common and necessary status quo for the efficient expansion of territory and military management.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권6호
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• pp.935-946
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• 2008

종교는 인간을 궁극적인 삶의 조건과 관련시키는 일련의 상징적인 형식과 행위이다. 종교사상은 상징을 통해 세상을 이해하고 또 상징을 통해 행위를 유발한다. 본 연구는 종교가 복식에 미치는 영향과 그 메커니즘을 규명하는데 목적을 두고 문헌을 중심으로 연구를 하였다. 세계 고등 종교 중 불교, 힌두교, 이슬람교를 중심으로 연구하였으며, 종교의 여러 구성요소가 의례로 표현되고, 복식으로 표출되는 메커니즘을 연구하며, 그러한 일련의 과정을 도식화하여 제시하는 것에 목표가 있다. 믿음체계, 경험, 공동체, 의례 등 종교의 구성요들은 긴밀한 상호 연관성을 갖는다. 특히 의례는 종교적 의미를 표현하는 상징적 행위이자 실천이며, 구원의 방편이다. 모방의례, 긍정적 혹은 부정적 의례, 희생의례, 통과의례 등의 종교적 의례들은 제사와 같은 종교 예식은 물론, 종교음악이나 복식, 건축, 미술 등의 조형예술로 표현되어 왔다. 종교는 삶의 의미를 밝혀 주고, 불안이나 갈등과 같은 문제의 해결책을 제시해 주는 신앙체제로서 복식을 포함한 문화 전반에 큰 영향력을 끼쳐 오고 있다.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.184-203
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• 2002

This study considers the fashion as an expressive object of mental value system in order to understand muitivocal value groups. Because the external behavior aspects and internal values of muitivocal value groups are getting more ambiguous in these days. This purposes of this study are as follows; first, this paper examines diversely how these groups affect modern fashion through analysis multivocal value groups after 1990s, and makes clear that various social, cultural, and economical values are important factors for changing symbolic standard connected with fashion. Second, it aims at expanding the positive recognition of the conflicts that exist among various values, and aesthetical recognition that overcome the discrepancy and such conflicts. For this aim, this paper analyzes the social and cultural aspects, aesthetic taste, life style of such groups focusing on Dink, Yiffie, Yettie, Bobos. We examine these groups' characteristics and their effect on modern fashion by categorizing them into Snob Look, Vintage Fashion, Unbalance Fashion, and Caports Look. This paper conducts the previous literature review and the practical analysis on periodical publications and Internet websites concerning fashion. Consequently, this kind of study is useful for providing a theoretical background that would explain the multilateralism in fashion, with uncertain in useful and culture, and changing the obvious confusion to another dimension of order.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권5호
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• pp.741-757
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• 2021

In addition to direct sales to consumers, the direct-to-consumers (D2C) strategy, which provides specialized experiences and services, communicates closely with a consumer's perspective. This tendency is related to the recent trend wherein the luxury fashion system is being transformed into a new luxury. Therefore, this study analyzes the development of online D2C platforms and investigates the characteristics of new luxury from the functional, symbolic, and experiential dimension perspectives based on mobile apps, which is becoming increasingly important among online D2C platforms. Based on the study results, the premium of new luxury fashion displayed in Louis Vuitton's mobile D2C platform in terms of product utility and functionality is newly defined as a usable luxury experience. Moreover, from the heritage perspective, based on the cultural sympathy of the brand contents, we determine that an attachment can be formed between new luxury fashion consumers and brands. Additionally, the personalization service and experiential content on the D2C platform can directly afford emotional and bonding induced brand immersion in a playful way.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제41권9호
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• pp.43-54
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• 2003

The purpose of study is to survey the system of the Korean Gangsin-mu shaman costume and its formative character and to fine out the traditional follow patterns of government officials' attires and Po's meaning of it. The overall shape of variety 'Po's in modern times are similar to the traditional ones, but they differ greatly in size, detail color, and ornamental design. The sleeves have slits in the armholes, which can allow the hands to be drawn out easily. In addition, the knot buttons are used in the modern costumes. They are based on different formation skills from those of the traditional The original color of the shaman's costume is not their taste in color but symbolic, modern costumes color show the shaman's taste in color. This change mean a more accentuated visual effect than incantatory meaning. Another reason for color change is also the costume's material. A kind of constituent element uses synthetic fiber in modern times.

• 복식
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• 제58권8호
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• pp.30-46
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• 2008

This study aims to develop an academic costume design representing the university identity of Seoul Women's University. As a formal dress and uniform symbolizing the dignity of study, academic costume arouses self-esteem of the owner and represents the symbolic order. UI(University Identity) is a system that embodies the identity of the university and create a certain image, and thus actively delivers the image pursued by the university. The study method to develop a new academic costume design of Seoul Women's University includes the theoretical background of UI and academic costume, investigation on the current rendition of academic costume, home and abroad, and a survey to collect the basic data for academic costume design development. Most of the respondents presented negative opinions on the existing academic costume and graduation cap, which do not show any clear distinction from those of other universities. They made a pressing demand for the development of an academic costume that well represents the image of the university by reflecting the university feature and symbol. As a result of the survey, it turned out that they preferred an academic costume with short length balloon sleeves to the exiting one, and that as for neck line and front hook, those of the existing one were preferred. This study developed and presented 9 different models of graduation gowns and 5 different caps based on the theoretical investigation and survey concerning academic costume. It is expected that the academic costume representing the university identity not only arouses self-esteem of the owner, but also enhances the university's position.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.218-230
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is -under the post-modem situation- to emphasize the role of women which has various several logic on feminism, to look forward to division of men's consciousness of women, and to reflect a trend to accept the role of sex which is occurring in the system of sex, that is, 'The Third Gender and Homosexuality'. The category of biological and sociocultural on feminism discussed, meantime expressed the sexual logic under post-modern situation, and probed the sexual logic on feminism which was expressed in modem dress and its ornaments by redefining some characters as follows; Imitation-it was to attain masculinity by imitating the body of the opposite sex. Interaction such situations like...... masculinity in women, feminity in men was demonstrated as transvestism of cross-dressing and the symbolic meaning of homosexuality was demonstrated in the shoes of sociocultural on Feminism. Dispersion appeared as a moderation charm and a resistance against the men-ruling culture. Destruction-expressed the fetishism of punk of porny image and maternal affectional image of biological trend as playful satire. Therefore, It is conceived that Feminism would be created true human-phase come true in the men's world as long as the realization of women themselves make the phase of women higher; and further not only propose new image of women but the system of gender.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.150-164
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• 2021

This study analyzed the punk style shown in the movie Sid and Nancy (1986), based on a true story. The purpose of this study was to prove that the styles of the main characters had some discriminatory mode as an anti-fashion with not only the value system of the subculture but also the diverse cultural codes applied, revealing their identity. The scope of this study covered the 1970s when Sid died while a member of the Sex Pistols, but was limited to the analysis of Sid and Nancy's costumes. As theoretical background, this study reviewed the preceding studies, specialty books, movie-related sites and their postings, and on-line news reports. To analyze the movie costumes, relevant scenes on the DVD were captured, and thereby, the scenes were categorized per character and style but a performance scene was categorized Sid and Nancy as same punky wedding style because of intention spirituality to marriage by director, and thereupon, 17-cut images were used for the analysis of main characters' styles. Sid's style consisted primarily of black leather jackets, symbolic T-shirts, and jeans, whereas Nancy's style implied a punk style with added fetish styles. Even in the same punk style, their identities were symbolized through bricolage. Through this, subculture styles, were able to confirm that in addition to the value system of subculture, discriminatory modes as anti-fashion with various cultural codes played a role in revealing their identity.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.26-36
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to examine the concept of modern consumer society and to analyze how the meaning of postmodern-feminism is consumed into what image of preference in fashion. The function of modern society has changed into the system which is centered around consumption from the one that emphasizes labor and production of mass consumption age by mass production. In this consumer society, consumption means just not to waste of production but to consume the commodity sign reflected on the desire of a moderner. In other words, it means what is consumed will be the meaning, preference, symbol, and image mood not goods itself with physical feature. Existing feminism has affected by postmodernism. Due to that, postmodern-feminism has developed, taking to pieces the paternal argument since the late 1960s. It has tried to give up hope this idea, regarding sex distinction as a socially organized category contrary to women's identity of biological aspect suppressed in the paternal system of value. Especially it has demanded only one type on sex should be translated into a distinctive quality, multiple meaning, and sex. Accordingly in modern fashion, this aspect is expressed like the followings : distinction into women's image evaded fixation, multiple meaning into image of androgyny, multiple sex into that of mixture. And this is used as the image of symbolic goods, also the purpose of brand difference.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.101-110
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• 2009

Danchung(丹靑) is the traditional Korean patterns that are decorated with various colorful patterned paintings upon each sections of wooden architecture. Although Danchung consists of variety patterns with the meaningful signs and symbols, as an accomplishment of Korean traditional images, there is a few fashion merchandise by Danchung patterns. Therefore, the purpose of this study is about to design Jacquard fabrics, and to develop bags of Jacquard fabric by Danchung patterns, as a differentiated cultural Fashion Merchandise. The theoretical background was researched for the geometric image of Danchung patterns on the basis of the basic elements, compositions and symbolic meanings of Danchung. The geometric image of Danchung patterns, which had the shape of circle, triangle, square and hexagon, was designed to the surface design by Jacquard CAD system(i.e., EAT Designscope by Germany) and woven into Jacquard fabrics by Stabuli electronic Jacquard system. Danchung patterns for fabric design in this study was mainly focused on 'ChipJaGum', 'SamJiChangGum', 'ShouSulGum', Moro patterns of lotus flower(蓮花), Rok-Wha(綠花) and so on. To development bags of jacquard fabric, those woven jacquard fabrics were manufactured to bags by applying the selected of twelve bag-designs among the current bag styles. These manufactured bags of jacquard fabrics in geometric Danchung patterns were appeared a contemporary yet ethnic feeling so that they can be used for the unique korean cultural products to further commercialization.