• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.6
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• pp.1098-1108
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• 2017

This paper investigated stretchability with fabric mechanical properties of one-way and two-way stretch fabrics. For this purpose, 1-way and 2-way woven fabrics were prepared using 150d PET/spandex covered yarns with different thermal treatment according to 4 kinds of wet thermal machines subsequently, fabric mechanical properties were measured and compared with regular PET fabrics. In addition, the garment formability of stretch fabrics was predicted and compared to regular fabrics according to wet thermal treatment. The weft stretchability of 2-way stretch fabric was about 10% higher than the 1-way stretch fabric. The compressibility of the stretch fabrics was 1.5 times higher than regular fabrics. The compressibility of stretch fabrics treated with CPB and rope type wet thermal machine showed higher values than other types of wet thermal machines. The bending rigidity of 2-way stretch fabric was lower than 1-way stretch fabric. Shear rigidity of 2-way stretch fabric was higher than 1-way and regular fabrics. Garment formability of 2-way stretch fabric was higher than regular and one-way stretch fabrics. Garment formability of 2-way stretch fabrics treated with wet thermal conditions under low tension showed the highest values.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.83-92
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• 2018

This paper investigated garment formability and fabric mechanical properties of one-way and two-way stretch fabrics according to the thermal treatment methods. One-way and two-way stretch fabrics were woven using 75d and 150d PET/spandex covering yarns and then these were wet thermal treated with four kinds of finishing machines. The fabric mechanical properties of these stretch fabrics specimens were measured and compared with the regular PET fabrics. The stretch ratio of one-way stretch fabric was ranged 12 to 26 percentage, 15 to 45 percentage for 2-way stretch fabrics and 4 to 10 percentage for regular fabrics. Garment formability of stretch fabric was superior than that of regular fabrics, in addition, 2-way stretch fabric was better than one-way. The garment formability of the stretch fabrics treated with CPB and Lava wet thermal machines showed the highest values, and the stretch ratio of these 2-way stretch fabrics was also the highest, which was ranged 20 to 45 percentage. This phenomenon was assumed to be due to high extensibility and bending rigidity with low shear modulus of the 2-way stretch fabric treated with CPB and Lava wet thermal machines. It was shown that the garment formability of stretch fabrics treated without dry thermal treatment was higher than that of dry thermal treated fabrics. It revealed that high stretch fabric was available under the condition of low process tension in the wet and dry thermal treatments of the finishing process, which makes high garment formability.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.995-1006
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the wearing sensation and satisfaction of high school girls' winter uniform jackets according to the fabrics and the shapes. The fabrics were divided into four parts of stretch and non-stretch woven fabrics. The shapes were divided into two parts of tight and general types. The results were as followings: 1. In the aspect of the appearance evaluation for the uniform jackets, silhouette and length item showed significant differences in fabric and shape. The non-stretch woven fabric and tight type was more satisfying than the stretch fabric and general type because its silhouette and length were shorter and fitter than the stretch one and general type. The jackets of non-stretch woven fabric of tight type were evaluated as the thinnest in the silhouette and were evaluated as the shortest in the length. Conversely, the jackets of stretch woven fabric of general type were evaluated as the thickest and longest. 2. As for the wearing sensation of school uniform jacket, all test items showed significant differences in fabric and shape. The stretch fabric and general type was more satisfying than the non-stretch woven fabric and tight type because the jacket of stretch fabric and general type was felt more comfortable in activities, and wearing. Accordingly, the appearance evaluation for uniforms' jacket is in sharp contrast with that of wearing sensation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.185-192
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• 1998

The methodology of applying fabric stretch ratio in the grants pattern drafting was evaluated. The experimental fabrics employed in this study were 3 different knit fabrics with various stretch ratio in vertical or horizontal direction. The firm fitting pants pattern was modified by applying the fabric stretch ratio in vertical ana horizontal direction. The computer automatic drafting method was used for pants pattenl alteration. The suitability of the altered pattern was evaluated by the 7 clothing specialists, The results showed that fit of all experimental garments was improved in general. The garment which was constructed with the fabric having large difference between horizontal stretch ratio and vertical stretch ratio showed poor fit at crotch area. This result implies that computer aided pattern alteration is not appropriate when fabric stretch ratio is vary by the fabric directions.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.135-144
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate the wearing sensation and satisfaction of high school girls winter uniform' jacket. The subject participated in the study were 599 high school girls attending four different schools. The fabrics were divided into two parts of stretch and non-stretch woven fabrics. The results were as follows: 1. The high school girls showed body image distortion that she recognized herself as fatter than her real body type. Especially, this was severe in the slim body type. 2. In the aspect of the satisfaction for uniforms' jacket made with stretch fabric and non-stretch woven fabric. the elastic fabric was more satisfied than the non-stretch one because its width and length was shorter and fitter than non-stretch one. 3. When they wore the school uniform jacket, the wearing sensation of one made with stretch and non-stretch woven fabrics showed significant differences in arms hole when raising hands, front bust when carrying backpack on their back, backs while studying at desks, the upper arms and the elbows. 4. As for the alteration of school uniform jacket, the non-stretch woven fabric was appeared to be altered more than the stretch one.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.160-167
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• 2002

Stretch fabrics are wide-spread for high performance clothing use with requirements of fitness and adaptability to human's movement. A newly developed 100% PET high stretch fabric has excellent properties with respect to stretch, softness, bulkiness, and apparent volume compared to PET filament fabrics. The 100% PET high stretch fabric shows advantages of a dimensional stability, dye and agent adaptability in dying and finishing process, a property of stretch recovery after washing and lower production cost than that of spandex fabric. KES-FB was used to measure mechanical properties to various directions of the fabric. This study centered on whether the 100% PET high stretch fabric is suitable to quality and shape retention of fabric by testing several properties including tensile, compression, shear, bending and surface characteristic to various measuring directions. Tensile linearity showed maximum value at $0^{\circ}$ in plain and $90^{\circ}$ in twill. Shear Stiffness of plain and twill showed maximum value equally at $45^{\circ}\;and\;135^{\circ}$. Bending rigidity showed maximum value at $0^{\circ}$ in plain and $45^{\circ}$ twill. Mean deviation of MIU showed maximum value at $0^{\circ}\;and\;90^{\circ}$ in plain and $135^{\circ}$ in twill.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.645-654
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• 2021

This study aimed to visually compare the implementation of digital virtual fabrics for stretch fabrics mainly used in clothing that closely touch the body, using CLO. A digital fabric was used in CLO after measuring the weight, thickness, bending, and tensile force of five adhering clothing fabrics using a CLO fabric kit. The visual similarity of draftability was compared by measuring the area of the bending angle and the shape of the wrinkles of the real and digital fabric. A comparison of the bending angles showed that Fabric A was -0.75° and Fabric D was -2.5°, showing slightly lower drape properties than the real fabric. Meanwhile, Fabric B was 2.75°, Fabric C was 2.13°, and Fabric E was 1.375°, showing slightly higher drape properties in the vertical direction than the real fabric. Comparing the widths of the drape shapes, Fabric A was 0.77%, Fabric B was 1.27%, Fabric C was 0.06%, and Fabric E was 1.48%, which showed a slight difference. Fabric D showed a difference of 3.17% and was implemented where the digital fabric spread a little wider. As a result, the stretch fabric was visually expressed similarly to the real fabric as a whole in CLO. For 3D virtual clothing technology to be used widely in the close clothing industry in the future, more research on real clothing is needed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.111-114
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• 2005

In this the study, polyester/cotton(P/C) blended fabrics with fine denier were developed to get the light weight compared with the traditional P/C blended fabrics. Moreover, the width of the fabrics was extended by the tenter during the final heat treatment to get the lower fabric density and lighter weight. Then, the physical properties of these fabrics were analysed. The results were as the follows: The developed fabrics had 22.6-31.6% lighter weight than the traditional fabrics with the same fabric width. The weight of fabric decreased drastically with the fabrics width down to 67.1 $g/m^2$. The fabric density for the warp direction decreased with the fabric width. The tenacity and the elongation of the developed fabrics was little lower than that of the traditional fabrics. The air permeability of the developed fabrics increased with that of the traditional fabrics. The stretch rate of the developed fabrics decreased with increasing the fabric width. Residual stretch rate of the developed fabrics was more stable than that of the traditional fabrics. Residual stretch rate of the developed fabrics increased with the fabric width, but the highest value was less than 5% which is quit stable.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.84-88
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• 2003

The properties of a woven fabric made of poly(trimethylene terephthalate) (PTT) were investigated. The PTT fab-ric of draw textured yarn (DTY) showed excellent stretch as good as a fabric containing spandex. However, the unique stretch of the PTT fabric reduced dramatically by simple heat-treatment even at as low as $80^{\circ}C$. To understand the phenomenon, the crimp rigidity of the DTY was observed by SEM. It was found that the drastic reduction of stretch was caused by irreversible uncrimping of PTT DTY after heat-treatment. Conclusively, it is of importance to optimize the texturing conditions for PTT DTY to make the crimp more stable.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.17-26
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• 2019

This research aims to obtain useful data on the development of compression garment products with high-stretch knitted materials. Using nylon SCY, four specimens were knitted. Then, appearance (width, length, weight, thickness), stretch property (stretch, recovery) and clothing pressure were measured and their interrelation was analyzed. In the comparison of appearance features, yarn floating caused shrinkage in both course and wale directions of the specimens. Yarn overlapping by tucking caused a release in the course direction and shrinkage in the wale direction. Also, structural change was affected by the weight and thickness change of the knitted fabric. In the analysis of fabric stretch, yarn floating reduced the extension in course direction and increased that in wale direction of the knitted fabric. However, yarn overlapping reduced the elongation in both directions. In the analysis of recovery, yarn floating and overlapping raised fabric recovery in both directions, and tuck structure was superior to float in recovery. In the analysis of clothing pressure, 'Plain-Float' structured fabrics showed a higher clothing pressure than 'Plain' and the clothing pressure value of 'Plain-Tuck' was lower than that of 'Plain'. As for the correlation between fabric appearance, stretch property, and clothing pressure, the appearance change in course direction had a major influence on the clothing pressure. The shrinkage of appearance led to a decrease in stretch and an increase in clothing pressure.