Fashion & Textile Research Journal (한국의류산업학회지)

The Society of Fashion and Textile Industry (한국의류산업학회)
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Effect of Wet and Dry Thermal Setting Conditions of Stretch Fabric to Fabric Mechanical Property and Garment Formability

습·건열 열고정 조건이 스트레치 직물의 역학특성과 의류형성성능에 미치는 영향

  • Kim, Hyun-Ah (Korea Research Institute for Fashion Industry) ;
  • Kim, Seung-Jin (Dept. of Fiber System Engineering, Yeungnam University)
  • 김현아 (한국패션산업연구원 연구개발본부) ;
  • 김승진 (영남대학교 파이버시스템공학과)
  • Received : 2017.08.03
  • Accepted : 2017.12.25
  • Published : 2018.02.28
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Abstract

This paper investigated garment formability and fabric mechanical properties of one-way and two-way stretch fabrics according to the thermal treatment methods. One-way and two-way stretch fabrics were woven using 75d and 150d PET/spandex covering yarns and then these were wet thermal treated with four kinds of finishing machines. The fabric mechanical properties of these stretch fabrics specimens were measured and compared with the regular PET fabrics. The stretch ratio of one-way stretch fabric was ranged 12 to 26 percentage, 15 to 45 percentage for 2-way stretch fabrics and 4 to 10 percentage for regular fabrics. Garment formability of stretch fabric was superior than that of regular fabrics, in addition, 2-way stretch fabric was better than one-way. The garment formability of the stretch fabrics treated with CPB and Lava wet thermal machines showed the highest values, and the stretch ratio of these 2-way stretch fabrics was also the highest, which was ranged 20 to 45 percentage. This phenomenon was assumed to be due to high extensibility and bending rigidity with low shear modulus of the 2-way stretch fabric treated with CPB and Lava wet thermal machines. It was shown that the garment formability of stretch fabrics treated without dry thermal treatment was higher than that of dry thermal treated fabrics. It revealed that high stretch fabric was available under the condition of low process tension in the wet and dry thermal treatments of the finishing process, which makes high garment formability.

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References

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