• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.12
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• pp.1368-1373
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• 2003

본 연구에서는 견직물에 강경한 촉감을 부여하여 한복지 뿐만 아니라 현대의 패션경향에도 부합되는 소재를 개발하고자 하였다. 견직물에 강경성을 부여하기 위하여 의마가공용 폴리우레탄 수지를 이용하여 수지농도와 큐어링온도에 따른 수지부착율을 조사하였고, 여기에 수반되는 물리적 특성의 변화를 살펴보았다. 또한 가공된 견직물의 세탁에 대한 내구성도 살펴보아 동시에 실용가능성도 검토하였다. 이상의 연구를 통해 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1. 의마가공용 폴리우레탄 수지를 견직물에 처리할 경우 수지 농도가 증가할수록 수지 부착량이 증가하였다. 2. 열처리온도를 변화시켜 수지부착량의 변화를 살펴본 결과 열처리 온도가 증가할수록 수지의 부착량이 감소하여 본 실험에 사용된 수지의 적정 열처리 온도가 160-18$0^{\circ}C$인 것을 고려해 볼 때 견직물의 경우 17$0^{\circ}C$의 열처리 온도가 적절한 것으로 나타났다. 3. 수지 처리된 견직물의 역학적 특성치의 변화를 살펴본 결과 RT, EM, MIU값은 감소하는 경향을 가지며, LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HG5값은 증가하는 경향을 나타내어 폴리우레탄 수지처리로 의마가공 효과를 갖는 견직물을 얻을 수 있었다. 4. 수지 처리된 견직물의 역학적 특성치는 물세탁 후에도 크게 변화가 없어 세탁에 대한 내구성을 지니고 있는 것으로 나타났다.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.65-73
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• 1986

These studies are carried out to improve silk availability for anticrease by useing methacrylate monomer polymerization method with in silk fiber. For this purpose, degree of anticrease, stiffness and shrinkage of various silk fabrics, included finish or not, after repeat of washings and polyster fabric was compared as standard. The adopted samples are ; 1. Polyester, Georgette, Woven density…90cm-85g/m 2. Silk, Twill, Degumed, Light, Woven density…90cm-90g/m 3. Silk, Twill, Degumed, Heavy, Woven density…90cm-200g/m 4. Silk, Stain, Degumed, Light, Woven density…90cm-90g/m The reached results are as followings. 1. The results of improving on anticrease by the finished method were about ten per cent increase against their original samples. 2. The light density silks showed satisfactory improve for anticrease, but the heavy one remained as rather poor condition. 3. The results for degree of textile stiffness were investigated to make sure reserve their textile feeling and observed to be good condition upon the finish work. 4. Textile shrinkage after the repeat of soap wash was investigated on indivisual test sample and silk fabrics showed more shrinkage than polyester which it seemed to be tentering shrinkage druning their general finishing processes. 5. The investigation showed that anticrease, stiffness and shrinkage of the sample textile were more or less deteriorated regardless silk or polyester by the repeat of washings. These matters are considered that such results were obtained because of the fiber fatigue nature. 6. The report reached that silk textiles should be used by dry cleaning methed after finish of any resin finish to reserve their improved anticrease nature.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.117-130
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• 2001

The purpose of this research focuses mainly on the establishment of: the image of the police that can be adopted to meet the demands of reality through the development of the design of policewomen's uniform in the times that require reestablishment of the image of the police; the image of the police that is appropriate for the organic structure of the society; and the image of the police that cooperate with the citizens. For background research I have considered the police and their uniforms from a theoretical point of view and have examined the process by which Korean policewomen's uniforms have changed. Actual research was carried out policewomen of Seoul Regional Police Station, was conducted and the results were utilized to figure out what the problem was. This research suggests an improvement measure by making four suits of summer and spring-and-autumn work-uniforms, and six suits of spring-andautumn and winter full-dress uniform. First the colors of work-uniforms and full-dress uniforms are not blue, which incites a feeling of coldness and stiffness, but are colors that are feminine and emit warmth---red, ivory, khaki, black, and beige. second pure, natural fiber is difficult to wash and is not an appropriate material for policewomen's uniforms when considering its cost and etc., fabrics that are a mix of synthetic fiber and natural fiber were chosen. Because mixed fabrics are cheaper and their ability to maintain shape is superior to that of natural fiber, mixed fabric is an appropriate material for policewomen's uniforms. third the feminine image of policewomen was considered; therefore, masculine image, which is rigid and strong, was avoided and the image was expressed in a serene and beautiful way. Also slim line was added to the current uniforms to emphasize feminine beauty. The conclusion of this study is that police officers in the 21st century want to be seen as the citizens cane and benevolent volunteers that live together with the citizens, not as suppressive and powerful people.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.754-764
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• 2010

Most silk fabrics are produced only after the degumming process to make the best use of the properties and have restricted silk processing that do not hinder their performance. However, considering the highly increased preference for natural fibers and the shortage of raw silk, high-quality upgraded silk product functions are required by the development of a processing technology and a good design. This study analyzes the changes with the samples by the functional finish such as softening finishing, wash and wear, tannin weighting by measuring the objective hand of scoured silk and three finished ones using KES-FB. As a result, the change of objective hand of finished silk fabrics that improves functionality was analyzed and compared. The increase of KOSHI after the finish became stiffer show that the silk fabric samples are appropriate for summertime clothes with the retention of a certain clothing climate for the body. The stiffness of finished fabrics for the normal had a closer relationship with the density of fabrics than the type of finishing. The samples (after the softening finishes) maintain better elasticity according to the properties of the softener and the finishing agent. Although the specimens of this study were thin fabrics, their elasticity against compression increased after the softening finishes and became softer than degummed silk. The surface properties of georgette were changed by all types of finishing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2003

Nowadays, retro to the past fashion is appeared just as often as new challenge and trial. The style of Renaissance Era is the most often revival theme for contemporary fashion. So, this study was focused on 16C of Renaissance costume. It is investigated the characteristics of Renaissance costume through referring the literature to be able to restore the past costume as through as possible with the object of building database for developing new design. This study is done in two different ways at the same time, direct study to restore and indirect study to refer. Direct one is of the past costume as thoroughas possible based on referring to the originals. The other is referring the costume historical literature The costumes to restore is chosen among 16C famous pictures on the basis of how much they can show the typical chracteristics of 16C costume. Materials including textiles and ornaments which are necessarily to restore were shopped in Dongdeamoon Market. Some materials had a problem to get exactly the same one in Seoul on 21C. After visiting imes, the materials is chosen as similar as originals. Three sets of costume were restored on the basis of referring "Pattern of Fashion" written by Janet Arnold. The costumes were restored by reinforcing bodice based on the size of waist and in every three works. The way of sewing is based on hand sewing for details and machin-sewing for seam. Quilting intl lining is uwed giving the fabric stiffness to maintain the form from the heavy padding. Also the part of piles on margins is used darts instead of gather, because of reducing bulkiness of seam. General closing methods are hook and eyes, and lacing with points.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.197-206
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to dye hanji/cotton fabrics using persimmon juice and to investigate the change in the hand fabrics. Using the Kawabata Evaluation System, we have examined the changes in the physical properties, primary hand value and total hand value. The dynamic characteristics of hanji/cotton fabrics have been explored by tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. As a result, it can be seen that the linearity of load-extension and tensile resilience are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice and tensile energy is decreased in the same condition. These behaviors are shown in the compression properties. Although the mechanism of persimmon juice dyeing has been widely discussed, it means that the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffened and the elasticity is increased with the introduction of persimmon on the fabrics studied. Bending rigidity and hysteresis of the bending moment are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice. Also, Geometrical roughness, expressed in SMD is increased with increasing the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice, compared with as-received. It indicates that these results are due to the geometric structure of hanji yarn and the introduction of persimmon juice on the fabrics studied. The fullness and softness with the soft feeing are increased a little due to the tannin component of persimmon juice introduced on the fiber surface.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.150-158
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• 2000

This study investigated mechanical properties, drape coefficients and node indices of stretch fabrics. We applied mechanical properties to exhibited tailorability control in HESC and evaluated making-up. The mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface characteristic values, thickness and weight were measured by the KES-F system and drape coefficient by drape tester. The summarized results of this study were as follows; First, stretch fabrics, almost, shown high stretch in weft inserted polyurethane yarn fabric and had a ${\pm}2{\sigma}$(sigma) range of shearing, compression, surface and thickness, except bending and weight, as compared with Japanese women's thin dress fabrics. Second, bending had a positive correlation in stiffness, anti-drape and flexibility & softness. Shearing had a negative correlation in crispness and scroop. Surface properties had a high contribution in fullness & softness. Third, The drape coefficient was found by measuring the mechanical properties according to the obtained regression equation. Forth, many problems are expected in overfeed and cutting operations in sewing process. In the decision of the good external appearance using TVA, only 26 of 55 samples are included in the range of the good external appearance. Fifth, in the regard of the result for sewing control, warp values are not necessary to control in the all kind of items. But weft value in the RT and EM are out of non-control zone. So we need a special management during sewing process.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.61-72
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• 2008

The UV-protection effect of green-tea dyed fabrics was reported in our previous studies. The chitosan was used as a natural mordant of cellulose fiber for green tea extract because chitosan is a natural bio-polymer. The increase in the UV protection property of summer cellulose fabrics, cotton and linen, upon the repetition of chitosan mordanting and green tea dyeing was observed. However, the physical property change would be followed by this repeated wet processing of the cellulose fabric. Therefore, the physical changes of the chitosan mordanted and green tea dyed cotton and linen fabrics were evaluated by KES-FB system. Tensile, shear, bending, compression, and surface characteristics were tested upon the repetition of mordanting and dyeing treatments. Linearity of tensile force increased in the treated cotton and linen samples. Tensile energy and resilience decreased in all treated fabrics. Shear stiffness increased in the treated cotton and linen in general. Shear hysteresis was increased in all cotton samples and some linen samples. In cotton, the bending rigidity in all treated cottons increased except C3G3. As the chitosan mordanting numbers increased, the bending rigidity tended to decrease. In linen, the bending rigidity and hysteresis increased in all treated samples. Compressional energy and resilience increased as the number of chitosan mordanting increased both in cotton and linen. This could be the result of the increase in thickness upon chitosan mordanting. Surface coefficient of friction increased in the treated cotton and linen in general. Surface roughness tended to increase in cotton.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.566-571
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• 2008

Frictional sounds of 8 vapor permeable water repellent fabrics by sound generator were recorded and analyzed through FFT fast Fourier transform analysis. The frictional Sounds were quantified by calculating level pressure of total sound(LPT), the level range(${\Delta}L$) and the frequency difference(${\Delta}f$). Mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB. LPT values of specimens finished wet coating were higher than those of other kinds of finishing. ${\Delta}L$ values of specimens laminated were highest. Absolute values of ${\Delta}f$ were high in the cire finished and laminated specimens. Values for bending rigidity, shear stiffness and energy required for the compression of coated specimens increased compared with the cire finished and laminated specimens. Laminated specimens had high values of frictional coefficient and low values of surface roughness. Relationship between frictional sounds and mechanical properties analysed by use of correlation coefficients and stepwise regression. LPT showed significant correlation with elongation, tensile energy, geometrical roughness, weight and thickness. ${\Delta}L$ was highly correlated with tensile linearity, frictional coefficient, and ${\Delta}f$ with tensile linearity, weight and thickness. LPT were revealed to be explained by elongation and weight. ${\Delta}L$were predicted by tensile linearity, and ${\Delta}f$ by tensile linearity and thickness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.1 s.26
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• pp.81-91
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• 1988

The purpose of this study is to investigate the physiolosical responses and subjective wear sensation to the clothes with different cellulose composition. The experimental garments were four types of cellulosic fabrics, respectively composed of $100\%$-cotton, $100\%$-Rayon, cotton/Flax 85/15, and rayon/Flax 85/15 (weft blended), were sewn in blouses with half-length sleeves. Four healthy women were chosen for this experiment. The condition of the experimental room were in two environments: Temp., $25{\pm}1^{\circ}C$, R.H. $60{\pm}3\%$ and Temp., $30{\pm}1^{\circ}C$, R.H. $70{\pm}3\%$, and air velocity was maintained at 0.25 m/sec. The results are as follows. 1) At $25^{\circ}C$, rayon blouse showed the pleasantest feeling because of its excellent humidity sensation and tactile sensation. At $30^{\circ}C$, rayon and flax blended blouse showed most comportable sensation. In both environments, blouse of $100\%$ cotton showed the least pleasant because of high vapor pressure inside the blouse and bad tactile sensation. 2) Vapor pressure inside the blouse and tactile sensation play the most impotant role in comfort. Consequantly the blouse made of $100\%$-cotton which bring low air permeability, moisture regain and water vapor permearbility showed more unpleastness than rayon blouse because it raises temperature, relative humidity and vapor pressure inside the blouse under the hot circumstances In the conditions with much sweat, rayon and flax blended blouse with high stiffness increases comfort better than $100\%$ rayon because the former prevents sticking to the skin.