• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.127-140
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to research and design stage costumes of Whangjinie focusing on inner image of Whangjinie, present stage costumes of new image. Four steps were taken in order to achieve this purpose. The first step was to investigate the old documents and prior research about literature world of Whangjinie. The second step was to analyze stage costumes of Whangjinie which were worn in opera, movie. The third step was to design and make the stage costumes according to new images Whangjinie which were extracted from above two research results. The new images of Whangjinie are as follows 1. Whangjinie as a kisaeng(professional entertainer) She thirsted for new, materialistic love though she failed in love everytime. 2. Whangjinie as a woman. She had a hard time by feeling an irresistible yearning for lover 3. Whangjinie as a poet. She expressed as a poetry her vanity and loneliness of life. Using above three images, this study designed four new stage costumes of Whangjinie and two designs of them were made really. But this study didn't present historic costume of her age but expressed modern mood in color and form.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.336-344
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• 2010

Stage costumes are characterized by the importance as a medium of total visual expression on a synthetic art and need to be designed more effectively. This study followed the stage costumes of the play 'Long long time ago whuo-ee whuoee' which participated in the China-Japan-Korea University Theatre Festival. By consisting of the framework of a Korean story that tells and expands the visual expression province by the access method of a producer, the unique costume in the play was created by the dyeing of the traditional hangi. First, the use of hanji in theater represents originality and a fresh variation with the formative beauty of stage costumes in accordance with hanji that conforms to the recreation of tradition. Second, the dip dyeing technique made it possible to express colors limitlessly and the airbrush dyeing technique along with dyeing twice could account for the weak points of the color. As a result, the color brought effect as expected. Third, the weak points were supported by a Jumchi technique that created the fibroid material tangled with stronger adhesion in the creation of a hangi costume. In addition, dyed hangi was attached to the outer fabric. It allowed the costume to have a unique texture that was both soft and tough. This enforced the visualization of the costume and durability to prevent possible damage by the performers. Forth, pieces of hanji were attached to the damaged parts of the costume after re-visiting the dress rehearsal. As a result, the stage costumes represented the shabby clothes that express the social class of the characters. A new understanding of the excellence of traditional hanji was found and confirmed the possibility of it as a material for stage costumes through the study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.12
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• pp.1761-1771
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• 2007

The artificial exaggeration of stage costumes is thought to be one of the major techniques of enhancing dramatic expression on stage, whichever for visual impact or symbolic effect of dramatization. In the history of stage dressing, a variety of styles has been tried using different materials and production techniques. This may be reviewed as an effort to express dramatic effects more effectively. As this trend became obvious in Europe after the Second World War, this study analyzes the stage costume to deepen our understandings of the role of costumes in expressing dramatic effects. To accomplish this, we first summarized the history of stage costume materials and technical advance and chose five major cases representing the history of stage costume since the Second World War in Europe based on aesthetic and creative aspects: 1) Simplified stage of Jacques Copeau, 2) Stylized stage of Bertolt Brecht, 3) Essential stage of Grotowski, 4) Measured stage of Robert Wilson the Master, and 5) Post-dramatic stage of Philippe $Decoufl\'{e}$. In each of particular case, the historical, material and dramatic contexts were examined as well as different material-effects. The results are as followings: 1) Costume for Copeau's simplified stage: its simplicity plays a supporting role to the gesture of actors(intensifying effect). 2) Costume for Brecht's stylized stage: the artificial stylization integrates into the play with the importance approximately equal to the actors's acting. 3) Costumes for Grotowski's essential stage: costumes disappeared to emphasize only actor's presence on stage. 4) Costumes for Robert Wilson's measured stage: costumes made concrete impression to the extent of obtaining the same importance of actor's body among other stage art elements(lighting, sound, props, actor, text, etc). 5) Costumes for Decoufle's post-dramatic stage: costumes in the era of multi technology possess multi functional aspects that surrogate actors' body. This study suggests that stage costumes take an important part in dramaturgy to the extent that the intent of dramaturgy can be induced enough from stage costume. Thus, costume makers are expected to incorporate the appropriate dramatic factor more than before.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.83-95
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• 2011

Today, a variety performance premiered in Korea, works of art as an advanced production planning and production system is becoming. Accordingly, the field of stage costume also increased collaboration with foreign producers and production systems and the advancement of the stage costume are required are becoming. The opening performance of the 30th anniversary of the Seoul Theater Festival was selected as Towol Theater Theater in 2009, April 16 to 26 of Picasso's women's costume is the study of production systems. This work directing and stage design by inviting domestic producers from foreign fields, and co-authored the work in the field of stage costumes in collaboration with foreign producers that are worth study and research work. In this study, this work has a practical study of costumes throughout the production system, an advanced stage costumes to contribute to the development of the field. The research methodology book data, collected papers, Internet resources through research and theoretical studies play 'Picasso's women's stage production of the award total to an empirical study was undertaken. The results of this study are as follows. First, the costume director for making a scholarly grasp of the direction of the investigation is ongoing throughout the process of creating the costumes. Second, foreign producers and co-author of the stage when the award, if other than purely domestic producers and create costumes to build production systems. Third, foreign producers and co-costume design and costume making coherent explanation for the processing of the list(Costume Breakdown List) are developed. Fourth, the actual performance over the director's intention to visualize the presentation was good enough, and the idea of the costume crew was taken to the director's idea of directing a play that reflected the will has a big meaning.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.48
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• pp.53-70
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• 1999

The theatre costume in English Renaissance which is scarce in its historical materials can be inferred and imaginarily reconstructed from classifying it according to types of theatre costumes and considering its specific form in that age. The history of fashion could be also approached in the light of theatre costumes and it might be some help to the present theatre costume. Thus the purpose of this thesis is for contributing to the study of theatre costume by inferring the English Renaissance theatre costume from classifications and research of its pattern in detail. This thesis consists of the overview of the periodical background of English Renaissance and then analysis of the stage surroundings ar that time and classification of the theater costume acording to the types and finally inferences of the pattern of forms of the theatre costume. The theatre costume in English Renaissance can be divided into these group:(1) for foreigners such as Roman Turk Spanish and Jews (2) for supernatural beings such as a nymph god, goddess, ghosts, and witches(3) for professionals such as a clown, a clergyman. doctors and senators(4) for cast of animals such as a lion a bear and pigs. In the Elizabethan period theatre costumes were used together with Elizabethan costumes on the stage. Generally the theatre costumes in the age were typically made of very expensive materials and spectacles to the audience and compensating for the poor stage settings.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.42-57
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• 2007

The purpose of study is to investigate costumes of the heroin in the opera which has performed by 4 different directors ; Metropolitan opera by Franco Zeffirelli, San francisco opera by David Hockney, Salzburg Festival by David Pountney and Korea Arena opera by Zhang Yi-mou. In these performances, Her costumes normally expressed the change of her characteristic from a haughty and cruel lady to a lady who realized a true love. The former is wearing exaggerative and splendid styles while the latter is wearing simple and ladylike styles. Costume styles of each performance are like this. In the Metropolitan's opera, costumes are very splendid using brilliant fabrics and accessories of Chinese peking opera. Their costume styles are influenced by Chinese 'Pao' which is similar to Ming Style. In the San Francisco's opera, costumes are very simple, specially pattern of dragons. This silhouette mixed Chinese style and western dress. In the Salzburg Festival's opera, costumes are based on simple western style but they expressed her mind effectively like a extremely long skirt which means her haughtiness. In the Seoul arena opera, costumes are based on Ming styles using silk which embroidered dragons, phoenixes and flowers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.41-50
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• 2004

This research proposes the on-stage costumes for the play Hamlet of Shakespeare performed by Yunheedan Guhri Pae - the Street Theater Troupe. Stage costumes have an important role in displaying the characteristics of each characters to the audience and has big visual effects. However, in order to design the costumes in the object viewpoints of the audience, the survey on the images of the characters who had actually watched the performance was taken place and proposed the costume design according to the results of the survey. Hamlet a: This result was applied to propose a sweater in black color, black leather pants and vest. Hamlet b: This result was applied to propose hooded coat in purple in middle level of brightness and color spectrum and yellow coat. For free image, loose pants in blue and vest in the same color tone were proposed. Gertrude a: This result was applied to use purple (violet) with reddish tone to propose the formation of a dress applying tailored suit. Gertrude b: This result was applied to propose purple gown and the one-piece dress with black laces. Ophelia a: This result was applied to propose feminine white dress and cape in purple color tone. Ophelia b: This result was applied to propose dyed and weaved clothes. Through the surveys as above, the images of each character was driven in adjectives, and using the results driven from the brightness, coloration, and color, color images were proposed. Only one costume cannot make up for the stage costumes and because it exists as an element of stage production, it is true that costumes are limited in some areas. However, that limit can become the motive of the costume. There is a limit, which the designer cannot produce the costumes as he or she had designed but I believe it is the center of the on-stage customers to display the characteristics of the characters according to the given concept. The limit of this research is the fact that because the costumes were designed so they fit the conditions already given, thus it was difficult to regard the process of designing and producing the costume as a project done according to the interaction. And in the future, if it is possible, I wish for the joint research with the people responsible for stage art to take place as a practical stage art. It was possible to produce practical costume since they were produced for actual performance and the production of costumes considering the dance steps, line of flow, and acting, was able to reduce the trial and error on stage. Through this research, I felt that the understanding and smooth interaction on diverse other areas not limited to the costume design should be taken place and believe that this was a research that proposes new research method since there had been only a few previous research regarding the on-stage costumes for actual performances. Therefore, this research had depended on the surveys given to the audiences to endow objectivity, however, I wish this research can contribute to defining effective process and methods for the on-stage costumes with more active researches with diverse methods and in diverse areas. I am sorry that the costume production for all the characters and all the scenes in Hamlet couldn't be done due to many limitations. As the following research assignment, I am planning on designing the costumes for all the scenes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.75-84
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• 2004

Stage costumes perform not only the instrumental but also the expressive functions. The major goal of this study is to develop the functional and aesthetic costume designs for musical players considering the characteristics of instruments. players’ postures. The scope of this study is restricted to the musical costumes for female adult soloists playing the wind and string instruments. This study is composed of theory research, empiricalresearch and manufacturing a real costume. First, theory research contains theory of musical costumes and that of pure musical areas. Concept, characteristics and wearing effects are analysed in theory of musical costumes. Second, designs of instruments and playing postures are analysed in the theory of pure musical areas. Proper and improper designs are compared based on the survey asking the favorite designs of 56 wind and string players. Third, I manufacture a stage costume for a harpist. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, wind and string players think the functionality of costumes more importantly than the esthetic sense. And there are differences in design preferences for different playing postures. Second, string Players basically use arms, fingers and the upper body. Wind players use fingers more than string players and do abdominal breathing. Third, string players think the design of arms and sleeves because of frequent usage of bow and prefer the design without sleeves. On the contrary, wind players think the silhouette importantly because of standing playing posture. Fourth, players don't think that the accessory is not important and want it so long as it doesn't hinder playing. Fifth, shoes plays more important role than costume in case of playing posture with using pedals and moving legs frequently. Lastly, both wind and string players prefer the design with simplicity and comfort most.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.48 no.5
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• pp.17-24
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• 2010

Although design, color, and material are important elements in stage costumes, stage lightning also plays significant role in the presentation of stage costumes. Costumes color, material and perception can be significantly influenced by visual effects. Stage illumination can be arranged or managed so that colors are closely related to or enhanced or change the effects of costume colors on the runway or display at specific times. The results of this thesis are as follow; 1) Fabric tone, name, brightness, and chroma of colors were changed by the colors of stage lighting. 2) An achromatic color was changed to a chromatic color after being combined with colors of stage lighting. 3) Stage illuminations can make fabric, colors look similar to stage colors. 4) Plain satin silk fabric which reflects light shows high brightness and chroma after being influenced by stage lighting its shining effects and color changes were clear and apparent. 5) Velvet pile fabric which absorbs light shows low brightness and chroma after being influenced by stage lightning its shining effects and changes of colors were not clear and apparent. In conclusion, natural lights did not significantly influence fabric colors and perception, while artificial lights had wide range of effects on fabric colors and perception.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.1-14
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• 2012

Ever since the year 2000, Korea's musical markets has invited famous overseas license performances and have therefore cooperated with staffs working overseas in regards to stage costumes. This study aims to suggest the methodology of the stage costume making process according to the present advanced production system of Korea's musical market. The researcher participated in the stage costume making work of 'Chicago' as a costume supervisor. It took place at the Opera House of Seongnam Art Center from January 10, 2010 to February 28, 2010. Furthermore, there was significance in reinforcing academic values and implementing practical making process of stage-costumes based on the actual field work. The method of this research was carried out through a theoretical research and a case study that focused on empirical research. As for the research scope, it was limited to the actual stage-costumes that the researcher fully engaged with as a costume supervisor of the musical 'Chicago.' The results of this study were as follows. The stage costume making process of the musical 'Chicago' was categorized according to the classification of production system in the performance. For pre-production, it was divided according to the information of the actor and the analysis of the bible. Rehearsal period was divided according to the product clothes and fitting. Production week & preview were divided according to the changeover of clothes and the arrangement of dressers. The Run was divided according to the inspection of the situation concerning clothes in general during the performance. Post-Production Period was divided according to the collection of clothes and the implemented database. This study eventually suggested appropriate stage-costume making processes for the costumes making environment according to the expansion of overseas license musical market. However, it has a limitation of the research scope to the musical 'Chicago.' The creative performances of the domestic version are planned in diverse forms and come to abroad animate by the Korean Wave. Therefore, the field of stage-costume is necessary for the establishment of practical schemes of the system and copyright in accordance with the environment.