• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.14 no.3 s.35
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• pp.208-215
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• 1990

The purpose of this study is to provide the fundamental data of a dummy design for more suitable ready made clothing by making a pattern of somatic types and analyzing their morphological characteristics in accordance with different pattern of somatic types. The side view silhouettes of 90 junior high school girls of age $13\~16$ in seoul urban area were measured by means of the plan photographing and the low data were examined by principal component analysis, while the principal component analysis was applied and three components were extracted and then interpreted to explain to variation of the form of the body. Using three components respectively the cluster analysis was carried out and the subject classified into 4 cluster The following outcomes are obtained. . The results of principal component analysis of this study would be turned out the three; 1) The first principal component shows the degree of erectness or stoop of the figure. 2) The second principal component was a stature length or a growth rate. 3) The third principal component was the obesity component. 2. The results of cluster analysis by using three principal component analysis would be turned out the four cluser; 1) Cluster 1 ($29\%$ of the total) is characterized with lower stature. 2) Cluster 2 ($21\%$ of the total) is characterized with backward somatotype, and the highest leg. 3) Cluster 3 ($23\%$ of the total) is thicked back of neck. 4) Cluster 4 ($27\%$ of the total) is characterized with forward somatotype, and highest stature, height.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.78-92
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• 2003

The upper-body characteristics of the right-handed and the left-handed are examined and compared through 1-dimensional measurement and 2-dimensional measurement. The results were as follows: 1. According to 1-dimensional measurement results, the clearest differences were seen in girth items rather than height or length items. In particular, hand girth, lower arm girth, and upper arm girth were bigger on the left side in the left-handed group and the right side in the right-handed group. This is thought to be relevant to the arm muscles frequently used. 2. According to 2-dimensional measurement results, significant differences appeared in the females of the left-handed group: shoulder point among width items. In the right-handed group, some differences of significance were shown in females (shoulder point, rear armpit point, and B.P. point among width items) and males (front neck point among extreme vertical distance items). In summary, the body type characteristics of the left-handed and the right-handed reveal great differences in the items related to arm length and arm girth. In other words, the sleeve and shoulder patterns production based on the right-handed don't rightly reflect the somatotype characteristics of the left-handed. In addition, in the cases of athletes, laborers, and the disabled who frequently use particular muscles or parts of the body, this sort of research in the patterns is consistently needed in order to reflect the size differences in girth items in upper body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.459-469
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between body-types and skirt-patterns by analyzing various fitting conditions of the skirt patterns in relation to the body-types. To achieve this, fitting tests were done on six types of skirt-patterns. The tests included four body-types selected according to the existing classification of the types of under part of the body. Sensory tests were performed on the existing patterns and new drafting method based on the results of the fitting tests. The results of the fitting tests and sensory test are as follows. 1. The existing skirt-patterns were relatively well-fitted except for certain parts in standard somatotype (body-type A). 2. The new drafting method, designed on the basis of the fitting test on the existing patterns, scored high on all of the eighteen items included in the test This signifies the excellence of the new drafting method. 3. In the case of the allocation between the front and the back, which is the difference between the educational patterns and industrial patterns, the best silhouette was achieved when the hip-line and the waist-line were same sized both in the back and in the front. However, in the case of body-type D it was better when there was a 1cm difference between the back and the front. 4. The number of darts that best fits young persons were found to be eight, to keep their side hip-curve smooth. Further, it is desirable to set the center line of the dart as the vertical waist-line. 5. The best length of the darts were determined to be 12.5cm, 11ch in the back, and 11cm, 9.5cm in the front. Adjustments would be made according to the differing body-types in the range of 0.5cm. 6. The lowerness of the back waist-line for the normal was determined at 1.5cm, with some variations in other body-types. 7. The front waist-line was needed to be 1cm lowered in the case of body-type B, whereas, in the case of body-type D, it was needed to be 1cm raised.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.18-28
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to provide total data of real body-type and self-evaluation about it. The subjects were 614 middle-aged women between 35 and 59 years old. Data were collected through measurement and a questionnaire survey on self-evaluation. The results of self-evaluation of body are as follows; 1. As the result of the recognition degree analysis, people consider themselves thicker, shorter or smaller than what they really we, regardless of ages and types. In addition, the women of younger group rather than the women of older group consider themselves bigger/thicker and shorter than what they really are. They think that the items of waist girth, abdominal girth, hip girth, upper arm girth. and thigh girth are thicker than the other items, however, among girth items the size of bust girth is smaller than the other items. The women of the late middle-aged group consider their somatotype thicker/bigger and shorter than the women of the early middle-aged group do. 2. As the result of body cathexis for each part, women in general rum out themselves not to be satisfied with their body parts, regardless of ages and types. Particularly, they are not satisfied with abdominal girth, weight, hip girth. According to the age bracket, the women in the older group are more satisfied than the women of younger group in terms of their body. According to somatotype, women in tall and slim groups are more satisfied with their body. The women of the early middle-aged group turn out not to be satisfied with girth items while the women of the late middle-aged group are not satisfied with length items.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.939-946
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• 2009

This study is to classify the shape of the body by means of the drop value of the middle-age women. Drop value is based on the circumstances of the body deciding the dimentions of the clothes. Therefore, the study based on the drop value seems to decided the measurement of the clothes in making mass production of ready made clothes. In order to put measure items on this study of the value on 'The fifth survey of body measure of Korean', select 785 people in middle-aged women aged from 40 to 59. And considering the characteristic of upper-drop and lower-drop, and swelling belly by accumulated fat, selected five items(Bust Circumstance - Waist Circumstance, Hip Circumstance - Waist Circumstance, Hip Circumstance - Bust Circumstance, Waist Circumstance(Omphalion) - Waist Circumstance, Hip Circumstance - Waist Circumstance(Omphalion)). The result of the study is summarized as follows. Type 1, M type of the body showed the distribution of 32.5% and belonged to low body development style. The line of human body is the nearest of the four bodies in middle-age woman out of whole shapes of 4 types and the line of human body is close to middle-age woman. Type 2, X type of the body showed the distribution of 40.8% and the line of human body remarkably showed. Type 3, H type of the body showed the distribution of 12.4% and the line of human body appears least. This group was larger than any other group in having more fat in the belly above the circumstance of the hip than other groups. Type 4, Y type of the body showed the distribution of 14.4%. This type was upper half of body development style, waist was slender, and there was seldom the bend around the circumstance of belly and hip.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.3 s.62
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• pp.387-403
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop a new torso pattern for the schoolgirl of a tween generation who had different somatotype from children and teenagers. The subjects in this study were female elementary school students of fifth or sixth grade. Through a sensory evaluation of four existing torso patterns, the first research torso pattern was developed. Drafting methods of each item, which closed to the optimum value three, were selected. The differences between the values of the selected drafting methods and the optimum three were verified through a Wilcoxon's ranked sum test. The final research torso pattern was developed through adjusting the drafting methods according to the deviation from the optimum value three. The schoolgirl of a tween generation is at the time to show the remarkable breast development compared with a waist circumference, so the bust drafting was defined as B/4+ 1.25cm separately front and back. The drafting of a waist circumference was defined as W/4+1cm separately front and back which taken the ease amounts of the somatotype into consideration of the schoolgirl of a tween generation. A princess line was used instead of a waist dart because their hip circumference was more developed than a waist circumference. The crossed amount of a front hemline was 0.3cm and that of a back hemline was 0.7cm. and the princess line of the position was drawn with a straight line at a right angle of the back waistline. The armhole depth was determined B/4-1cm in consideration of the aesthetic and the trend, although the effective movement of upper arm was required.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.53-67
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• 1982

Physical measurements of 181 Korean elderly women, aged 60 through 79, living in the Seoul area, were taken in 1981 in order to analyze their body types and to study clothing construction according to their body types. The study was composed of 117 items in all; 35 items in measurements, 1 items in Rohrer index, 68 items in physical index to stature and bust girth, and 14 items in proportion, Coefficients of correlation among body dimensions were used. The results from this analysis are as follows: 1) The most significant changes in body dimensions in advanced age were the decrease of bust height and the increase of both abdomen girth and waist girth. 2) Distinct physical changes did not appear until advanced senescence(70~79 years of age). 3) In the three somatotype groups(thin, average, and plump) categorized by their Rohrer index, the dimensions that remained unchanged in senescence were back waist length and front waist length ; the dimensions that varied most significantly in senescence were the waist measurements. 4) As a result of the analysis of coefficients of correlation among the body dimensions of the 3 figure groups categorized by the Rohrer index, the fundamental dimensions for establishing the size of ready-to-wear garments of elderly women were the stature, bust girth and center back length in upper garments. 5) The result of the analysis of physical index and proportion of the 3 figure groups showed that the more plump a figure might be, the ratio of depth to width measurements increased; the back waist height was higher and trunk enlarged. 6) The 9 figure categorized by their Rohrer index and stature showed that the percentage of women in the category of“normal figure”decreased more in advanced senescence than during early senescence. 7) An analysis of variation of the 9 figure groups, the stature and other items for a short and thin figure were the smallest, and for a tall and plump figure, the largest.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.904-921
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• 2021

The aim of this study was to develop a body type suitable for adult men aged from their 20s to their 40s and to present a method of drafting related patterns. To this end, the somatic surface pattern data from previous studies were used. The research method involved drafting torso patterns for each type by setting and distributing the ease to the somatic surface pattern. Appearance evaluation was performed with virtual clothing. Then, the torso pattern for each body type was completed and presented as a draft method. SPSS was used for data analysis in this study. The research results are as follows. Types 1, 2, and 3 were set to 7%, 6%, 5%; 7%, 6%, 4%; and 6.5%, 7%, and 6% for chest, waist, and hip circumference measurements, respectively. The ratio of front to back was 50%:50%, 50%:50%, and 50%:50% of the spare for each body part for Type 1; 70%:30%, 50%:50%, and 60%:40% for Type 2, and 60%:40%, 70%:30%, and 60%:40% for Type 3. A tight-fit torso pattern for each body type suitable for adult males in their 20s to 40s was drafted, which was modified and supplemented through the evaluation of the first and second virtual wear. Considering the practicality of this approach, for generalization of the patterns, the items of the pattern were converted into a drafting method and presented as a draft method.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.1-16
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• 2002

The need for ready-to-wear clothing increases as the problem comes to arise from the fit of custommade clothing due to the characteristics of middle-aged women's somatotype. At this point of time, a study on the realities of production of custom-made clothing in middle-aged women's clothing business firms is of very greatly significance. Therefore, this study was intended to identify the problem and improvements through the survey research of production of custom-made clothing in middle-aged women's clothing business firms and further present the plan for development of custom-made clothing business. The questionnaire was framed based on the contents extracted from the preliminary questionnaire research for the pattern section chief of each business firm. Collected data were statistically processed using the SPSS 10.0 Windows program. As a result, the following findings were obtained: 1. The target age of the middle-aged women's clothing business firms ranged from more than 45 years to less than 50 years of age. Clothing business firms much made inroads into the ready-to-wear clothing market largely in the 1980s and the 1990s. Their active entry into the custom-made clothing market occurred in the 1970s and the 1980s. 2. In terms of the clothing production method of middle-aged women's clothing firms, some private boutique and designer brand clothing firms entered the clothing market with a focus on custom-made clothing in the beginning of its organization and introduced the production method of ready-to-wear clothing in accordance with changes in production methods and consumers' needs and wants. National brand clothing firms manufactured clothing with a focus on ready-to-wear clothing from the beginning of its organization, but at last they manufactured both partial custom-made and whole custom-made as the problem arose from ready-to-wear clothing. Seeing that their clothing production showed the ratio readyto-wear to custom-made clothing of 2.58:1. And it was found that the manufacture of ready-to-wear and custom-made clothing took into consideration the great difference in the pattern, size and design plan. The research of the clothing production process showed that whole custom-made and partial custommade were distinguished according to whether or not the sample was presented. 3. The ready-to-wear pattern of middle-aged women's clothing firms were used with a focus on the 'patternmaker-developed pattern' and company-developed pattern'. Most clothing businesses produced clothing in 4 to 5 basic sizes, which is found to be insufficient to complement the physical characteristics of middle-aged women with many specific somatotypes. In the pattern of custom-made clothing, the 'pattern of ready-to-wear were applied' or the 'customized pattern was developed'. Actual measurements were most used as the size of custom-made, and accordingly it is predicted that the level of satisfaction is higher with the fit of custom-made clothing than that of ready-to-wear. The selling place and the head office showed the similar percent as the place for measuring the size of custom-made clothing. Size measurers were mostly the shop master. And it was found that most clothing business firms had a problem when the measured size was applied to the pattern. Accordingly, it is necessary to provide education on size measurement for shop masters. 4. It was found that in the middle-aged women's clothing firms, the pattern correction of the length of sleeve, jacket and slacks occupied the highest percent. Accordingly, it is necessary to provide for the size system to complement the accurate somatotype characteristics of middle-aged women. 5. In custom-made clothing customer management, most firms engaged in customer somatotype management through size management. They provided customers with commodity information by informing them of the sales and event period and practiced human management for customers by maintaining the get-together and friendly relationship. 6. Middle-aged women's clothing businesses responded that it would be necessary to improve the fit of custom-made clothing and complement their pursuit for individuality as the plan to improve its quality. In consequence, it suggests that middle-aged women's clothing businesses should provide middle-aged women with the clothing of better-suited size and refined design. Middle-aged women's clothing businesses responded that it was the most urgent task to form the custom-made clothing manufacturing team as the plan to expand the custom-made clothing market, which is identified as their emphasis on the systematized production of custom-made clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.102-108
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• 2004

The anthropometric measurement and the photometric measurement for have been conducted 358 children from 4 years old to 6 years old to design children's clothing. The characteristics of body type were grasped among total 44 measurement items according to the aging, being extracted seven factors from factor analysis. From cluster analysis among the seven factors the three body types were classified. Type 1 shows low fat body with a small figure and short upper body. The body has a round belly and waist. Type 2 shows the fattest body with an average height. The body has been backed with lower shoulders. Type 3 shows common fat body with a high height and a big figure. The body shows crooked round back with a big upper body and rising shoulders.