• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.101-113
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• 2016

This study was conducted in order to analyze draping and flat pattern according to jacket design, and provide basic materials for developing a jacket pattern that can enhance fitness, functionality, and aesthetic expression of clothes by reflecting esthetic expression of draping and efficiency of flat pattern at the same time. For the experimental jacket designs of a one-piece sleeve jacket and a two-piece sleeve jacket were selected among the entries of the designer Rubina for 2014 F/W Seoul Fashion Week. Designer brand Rubina usually produced clothes using draping and the designer brand company provided the experimental patterns for the study. We also had flat patterns of the same design and size specifications designed by a flat patternmaker who has 30 year-experience in flat pattern like Rubina. The test apparel jacket was made of 20's cotton yarns. Three models wore the jackets and evaluation on appearance fitness was conducted by 7 members in an expert panel group from August 10, 2015 to September 10, 2015. As a result of appearance fitness analysis on one-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant difference in 4 items among 17 items in terms of overall appearance. The appearance of jackets by draping had higher score than those using flat pattern. As for two-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant differences in 7 items among 17 items related to overall appearance. As for the items related to sleeve, 5 items out of 13 showed significant differences. Except for one item, appearance of jackets using draping had higher score than flat pattern. As for motion fitness, draping was evaluated to be more comfortable. Applying the items with high scores in appearance and motion fitness in draping to flat pattern, The study suggests a new jacket pattern development that would increase the satisfaction of consumers for future research.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.685-694
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• 2016

This study investigates the problems of fitness and motion suitability for Korean male military winter jackets (inner and outer) and provides data for new pattern development. We analyzed fitness and motion suitability by a questionnaire survey with 140 Korean male soldiers and a wearing evaluation with 7 subjects of central army male size. A survey of male soldiers indicated that the fitness and motion suitability satisfaction was over 3.0 (Likert scale) for both inner and outer jackets. There were opinions that the sleeve length was short for the inner jacket and the waist girth and hem girth was slightly large for the outer jacket. In the wearing evaluation results with subjects of central army male size, fitness of total length, sleeve length and collar height showed a score lower than 3.0 for the inner jacket and collar height on the outer jacket. The motion suitability result showed a low score (1.0-2.0) in an arm raising motion for the inner jacket and 2.0-3.0 at neck motion in the outer jacket. In conclusion, there is more dissatisfaction in inner jackets than outer jackets. For the inner jacket, sleeve is short, sleeve hem is narrow, collar height is a little high and the sleeve creeps up during arm motion. The waist girth and hem girth was slightly large and collar height was a little high for the outer jacket.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.219-228
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• 2003

The purpose of this study were to examine the characteristics of arm types proposed in the previous study and to present sleeve patterns according size and shape of 4 arm types. 31 direct and indirect items were measured. The subjects for this study were 132 females of twenties. The results were as follows. 1. All of the direct measurements showed significant difference by the arm types. especially at the front armhole part. Such a.: the items of arm gradients, armhole sizes belong to the indirect measurements made clear difference also. 2. By the discriminant analysis, 9 items including underarm length, front armhole girth, upper arm girth, degree of elbow point-wrist point discriminated arm type by the hit ratio of 90.4% Item related to shape of arm rather than size made a sharp distinction. 3. Through the examination of existing patterns and wearing tests on the subjects among 4 groups, sleeve patterns classified by the arm type were suggested.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.8
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• pp.1-10
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to verify fitness of a new raglan sleeve pattern according to the result of appearance and function evaluation. Also, it was to search the relation between the construction factor and the function on the selected 3 types of the existent raglan sleeve patterns and the new sleeve pattern. Three female university students having different shoulder shapes were selected as subjects, wore 4 different types of the raglan steeve was evaluated by professional panel. The functions of the evaluated sleeve patterns evaluated was made by the wearer themselves. According to the comparison of the new raglan sleeve pattern with the existent raglan sleeve pattern, the new raglan sleeve pattern acquired the higher evaluation scores both on the appearance test and the function evaluation. It was known that the appearance and function of the raglan sleeve pattern were effected by construction factors of the sleeve pattern.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.305-313
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• 2008

This subject investigated visual evaluation of preference and fitness level of set-in sleeve in sleeve types(form)and studied suitable sleeve type at silhouette and targeted female students in twenties. The results of study were as follows: 1. Visual evaluation factors in set-in sleeve of sleeve types were selected 6 factors; the 1st factor is decorativeness, the 2nd factor is attractiveness, the 3rd factor was activeness, the 4th factor was feminine, the 5th factor was charming and 6th factor was a figural element. Decorativeness and attractiveness factors in visual evaluation of sleeve types were the most important level. 2. The visual evaluation differences of sleeve types in set-in sleeve were as follows; in the 1st factor, S and P2 were the most decorative sleeve type. in the 2nd factor, S, P2 and P3 are the most attractive sleeve type. in the 3rd factor, B and P3 were the most active sleeve type. in the 4th factor, L was the most feminine sleeve type. in the 5th factor, P1, L and P3 were charming sleeve type. in the 6th factor, P3 was evaluated that it shows narrowened shoulder sleeve types. 3. The analysis result of preference and wearing level in each sleeve types were as follows. 20's female university students like to wear S, P1, P2 and P3 sleeve types and the most favorite sleeve types are S, P2 and P3. 4. The analysis result of silhouette set-in sleeve in sleeve types; S, B and P2 in H-type silhouette, P2, S and P1 in A-type silhouette, B and P3 in O-type silhouette, L and P3 in X-types silhouette were show the most suitable sleeve types.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.7
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• pp.185-200
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate the fitness using the draft method to develop moderate-stretch knit block pattern for young women in Korea. The subjects were three women within the range of the ages from 18 to 24 showing the average body figures. In this study, 4 different patterns were drafted for the moderate stretch knitted fabrics, that were categorised into two different types. The first type of these was made up for kilted fabrics and the other was initially drafted for woven fabrics and altered for knitted materials afterward. The major findings derived from this investigation were as follows; 1. According to each sensory evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, knit block patterns A and D were the better than the rest of them. 2. Knit block patterns A and D with higher evaluation scores were drafted with body size measurements except the waist line, whereas patterns B and C with relatively lower scores were produced including the smaller ease amounts than the woven block pattern. 3. To see the results of the functional test based on the designed ten motions for this experiment, knit block patterns A and B were concluded as better than the rest of them. In addition, concerning the arm liking motions, pattern B was scored as the best among the developed patterns.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.21-33
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to provide information on how to improve both the satisfaction and the current sizing system for the school uniform focused on middle and high school girls' students. For the satisfaction of their school uniform, there were statistical significance by the academic year in jacket design, blouse color, and skirt design in the case of middle school girls'. On the other hand, high school girls' evaluation of school uniform was significantly different in jacket color, jacket design, blouse color, textile of blouse, skirt color, and skirt design by the academic year. For the assessment of wearing motion, there was no significant difference by the grade in both middle school and high school girls'. However, it was shown more frequency of discomfort than that of comfort. For the evaluation of sizing fitness, the breadth of sleeve in jacket and the width of blouse were statistical significance in middle school girls' by the grade while the width of jacket, he breadth of sleeve in jacket, the length of blouse, the width of blouse and length of sleeve in blouse were different in high school students by the grade.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.700-711
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the differences in the method of patternmaking, difficult in draft of patternmaking, fit in sleeve, aesthetic view, fashionableness in the five types of two-piece sleeve under the controled situation. Five types of two piece sleeve that were originated from five countries including domestic companies which called A type, B type, C type, D type, and E type were used. In order to conduct the experiment fur the study, 10 persons who were well organized about the patternmaking drafted 5 types of sleeve and were tested for the differences in the method of patternmaking, difficulty in draft of patternmaking. Another panel were tested for fit in sleeve, aesthetic view, fashionableness in the five types of two-piece sleeve in jacket under the controled situation. The results of this study were as followed 1. C type was needed height of armhole in bodice and D type was needed height of armhole and width of armhole in bodice as well as all parts of sleeve measurements to draft patternmaking. 2. There were significant differences of the items such as cap height, ease amount around sleeve cap, width of sleeve, forwardness of sleeve and the length of elbow line of the five types patternmaking drafted. 3. There were significant differences of difficulty in draft of the five types of patternmaking. C type and E type were easier to draft. 4. There were significant differences in fitness of the sleeves in jacket. C type and E type were more fit. 5. There were significant differences in aesthetic view. A type, B type and E type were more aesthetic under the situation. 6. There were significant differences in fashionableness in jackets. A type and E type were more fashionable under the situation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.953-970
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to design men's jacket pattern for variable body types by employing the data of wearing evaluation from experimental basic bodices selected by male subjects in the 30's. As a result of sensory evaluation, functional test and clothing pressure test by each type of experimental basic bodices, the 3rd experimental basic bodice was chosen to be a basic bodice type in this research since it showed a high degree in fitness and function, but a low in the clothing pressure test. As a comparison of one item from conventional jacket and sleeve pattern with each somatotype, the type 2(the standard somatotype) indicated a great fitness in both basic bodice type and conventional jacket pattern, whereas the type 1 and the type 3 showed higher fitness and moving function in the basic bodice type. In the making of men's jacket, many corrections were made in the front interscye breadth, back interscye breadth, front and back length, and shoulder line as adapting each body type. Thus, the ease-amount of chest circumference at scye for clothes should be established differently according to the size of chest circumference at scye.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.93-100
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fitness and its problems related in clothing fitness and to get basic data to develop fit ready-to-wear garment, total 352 subjects were surveyed during the period of November, 1998. The major results of this study were as follows ; 1. Both men and women felt fitter in upper clothes than lower clothes. As compared with women, men became more aware of proper fit except coat. 2. Men had lest fitting problems in blouse and shirts while women in coat. Also, the clothes stated which had most fitting problems were trousers by men and women. 3. A variety of fitting problems in ready-to wear garments were identified including sleeve length, skirt length, and pants length. 4. The most frequent alterations were shortening or lengthen of skirt and pants.