• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.742-754
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• 2013

This study aims to conduct a investigation on the gusset of a Kimono sleeve to achieve excellent movability through an evaluation of its fit wearing by conducting comparative research in terms of the length of the gusset pattern according to sleeve angle, which having a great effect on the wearing and activity of the top of a Kimono sleeve. A prototype was manufactured by developing the basic Kimono sleeve based on the method of Ernestine Kopp's basic bodice pattern. The sleeve angles which was applied to the prototype pattern of the Kimono sleeve ware approximately $50^{\circ}$, $70^{\circ}$ and the gusset was diamond-shaped which has a width of 10cm and lengths of 9cm, 10cm and 11cm. As a result, in the case of $55^{\circ}$ of the sleeve angle, the angle was gradually increased as the length of gusset was extended, although, in the case of $68^{\circ}$ of the sleeve angle, there was not remarkable effects between increased gusset length and the value of the angle. This result could be analyzed that the gusset did not affect remarkably since the sufficient movability was gained with only the angle in the case of $68^{\circ}$. Also, in the results of experiment on $55^{\circ}$ angle, as 9cm, 10cm and 11cm of length of gusset commonly indicated over $70^{\circ}$ in average, it was found that the movability was obtained sufficiently in every part.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제48권2호
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• pp.85-94
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• 2010

Comparative analysis of marker efficiency in blouse patterns, based on different sleeve designs, was carried out. Sleeve designs used included set-in-sleeve, laglan sleeve, and epaulet sleeve. The two types of epaulet sleeves, A and B, are based on pattern arrangement methods of center back. Cloth and production conditions are the width of cloth, the number of marking pieces, and the direction for marking deployment. A blouse pattern saved to the PAD CAD System was graded with different sizes and arranged for industrial purpose to calculate the marker efficiency in different conditions. The results were as follows. On the whole, the marker efficiency of small pattern sized set-insleeve was higher than laglan and epaulet sleeve designs. It was also established that marker efficiency is dependent on cloth and production conditions. For small number of marking pieces, efficiency was higher in the condition of 110cm cloth widths compared with that condition of 150cm cloth widths. However the efficiency of large number of marking pieces was higher in the condition of 150cm cloth widths.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.123-137
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to suggest sleeve cap height with a satisfying wearing sensation and appearance on jackets for women in their twenties so that high-consumer demand jackets can be produced. Five experimental jackets with sleeve cap heights of [(AH/3)-1cm], [(AH/3)-0.5cm], [AH/3], [(AH/3)+0.5cm] and [(AH/3)+0.8cm] were made for 30 subjects to try on after which the subjects were then surveyed for their assessment of appearance, wearing sensation and preference. On the basis of the results, the optimum height of the sleeve cap has been proposed along with the following contents and results of this research. 1. [AH/3] [(AH/3)+0.8cm] of sleeve cap height was assessed to beof desirable appearance. 2. [AH/3] of sleeve cap height garnered a high opinion in terms of intuitive wearing sensation, while [(AH/3)-1cm] [AH/3] were the heights with overall satisfaction of intuitive and movement wearing sensations. If discomfort in the upper sleeve at 'straight arm' posture can be tolerated, the sleeve cap height can be set to [(AH/3)-1cm]~[(AH/3)+0.5cm]. 3. [AH/3] and [(AH/3)+0.5cm] were found to have a high preference among wearers, which indicated that the women in their twenties prefer a slim type of sleeve, putting appearance above wearing sensation. Consequently, [AH/3] is desirable when appearance, wearing sensation and preference are considered, [(AH/3)+0.5cm] is fit for business uniform for static duties or formal dress focused on aesthetic impression and [(AH/3)-1cm]~[AH/3] are desirable for work clothes when considering active duties.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.130-139
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• 2009

This study was conducted to reproduce the Leg of Mutton Sleeve pattern of the ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size. Nineteen Leg of Mutton Sleeve patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. Nineteen Leg of Mutton Sleeve patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were classified into three groups(S1~S3) by the pattern pieces and the bend of the lower part of the elbow line. The S1 was one-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S1 was not bent. The gathers volume of sleeve cap of S1 was smaller than S2 and S3. The S2 was one-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S2 was bent. The S2 pattern had typical characteristics of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve that the gathers volume of sleeve cap was large and the lower part of elbow line was tight. The S3 was two-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S3 was bent. The gathers volume of sleeve cap of S3 was similar with S2. The study patterns of three groups of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve which had the characteristics and the silhouette of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve pattern of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were designed like for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size through modifications based on the evaluation of dressing on two occasions. The study pattern of three groups of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve were evaluated to have the silhouette of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve of the 1890's and to fit Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size with the sensory test.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.1060-1071
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to identify the effect of clothing cues(sleeve and skirt width, length) on female impressions. The experimental materials developed for this study are a set of stimuli and response scales. The stimuli are 16 pictures manipulated with sleeve and skirt width · length variations by computer drawing. The experimental design consists of 3 factorial design: (1) sleeve shapes(plain, upper expanded, below expanded, all expanded) (2) skirt width (wide, narrow) (3) skirt length(long, short) The 7-point semantic differential response scale designed for visual evaluation of female' s impression formation on sleeve shape and skirt width · length is 27 bipolar adjectives. The results of this study are as follows: 1. When we analize the impressions of female figure by sleeve shape and width · length of skirt, it becomes clear that maturity, modernity, attention, elegance and tenderness are proved to be important. Among these five factors, maturity, modernity and attention are identified as more important ones. 2. Sleeve shape have an effect on all factors except maturity and the effects of sleeve on the four factors are not striking. ' Width of skirt are most influential to the maturity and attention, but it does not have any effect on modernity. However two factor, that is width of skirt and sleeve have an effects on modernity, attention and tenderness. ' The length of skirt has an effects on the tenderness, elegance and modernity, but it dose not have any effect on attention. But width and length of skirt have an effects on attention, tenderness and modernity The length of skirt and sleeve have an effect on tenderness.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.183-196
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• 2015

This study aims to develop sleeve pattern of tailored jacket which shows seamlessly beauty of females in their twenties who have relatively smaller change of body compared people of other ages and has outstanding functional operation. So we selected a pattern of manufacturer who received highest score after evaluating wearing condition of three types of jacket in the industry, whose targets are career women in their twenties and then tested its appearance and functional operation of 6 experimental jackets with armhole depth of B/4 and B/4-1(cm) along with sleeve cap height of A.H/3, A.H/3+1, A.H/3+2. As a result, the pattern which has good result of external appearance evaluation were sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3+2 as well as sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3+1. The pattern of good result for movement adaptation were sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3 as well as sleeve with armhole depth of B/4 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3. So we could find that the larger is the armhole depth and height of sleeve, the better influence on adaptability of jacket it makes and that the smaller is the armhole depth and height of sleeve, the better influence on movement adaptability of jacket it makes. It has been proved that armhole depth of tailored jacket of females in their twenties doesn't affect significantly on its appearance when designing it but it makes good influence on movement adaptability when experimental clothing has armhole depth of B/4-1and that sleeve cap height of A.H/3 that is 1cm shorter than A.H/3+1 which is used in industry makes good influence on appearance and functional operation.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.101-113
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• 2016

This study was conducted in order to analyze draping and flat pattern according to jacket design, and provide basic materials for developing a jacket pattern that can enhance fitness, functionality, and aesthetic expression of clothes by reflecting esthetic expression of draping and efficiency of flat pattern at the same time. For the experimental jacket designs of a one-piece sleeve jacket and a two-piece sleeve jacket were selected among the entries of the designer Rubina for 2014 F/W Seoul Fashion Week. Designer brand Rubina usually produced clothes using draping and the designer brand company provided the experimental patterns for the study. We also had flat patterns of the same design and size specifications designed by a flat patternmaker who has 30 year-experience in flat pattern like Rubina. The test apparel jacket was made of 20's cotton yarns. Three models wore the jackets and evaluation on appearance fitness was conducted by 7 members in an expert panel group from August 10, 2015 to September 10, 2015. As a result of appearance fitness analysis on one-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant difference in 4 items among 17 items in terms of overall appearance. The appearance of jackets by draping had higher score than those using flat pattern. As for two-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant differences in 7 items among 17 items related to overall appearance. As for the items related to sleeve, 5 items out of 13 showed significant differences. Except for one item, appearance of jackets using draping had higher score than flat pattern. As for motion fitness, draping was evaluated to be more comfortable. Applying the items with high scores in appearance and motion fitness in draping to flat pattern, The study suggests a new jacket pattern development that would increase the satisfaction of consumers for future research.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.595-603
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• 2015

The influence of Japonism, which is the post-mid-$19^{th}$ century phenomenon of appreciating and preferring the Japanese style that manifested all across Western art, started to grow as a result of the active open-door policy of Japan at this time. As all areas of Japanese arts and culture, such as paintings, sculptures and theater plays, influenced Europe and America, this influence developed into a cultural phenomenon that was reflected even in fashion. The characteristic elements of the kimono first expanded from Paris and showed a similar silhouette to that of the traditional kimono in the early $20^{th}$ century, but towards the middle and the end of the century, kimono sleeves that were connected as one piece without a connecting seam line between the sleeve and bodice started to appear. The foundation of this research focuses on the design characteristics of kimono sleeves that can be seen in $20^{th}$-century fashion, and five varying kimono sleeve jackets and coats based on these formative characteristics were designed. Each design had a gusset design added, which improved the external and mobility problems inherent in kimono sleeve patterns, while at the same time serving as a proposal for new design element applications. Additionally, through various changes to and attempts at designs using the kimono sleeve as a limiting factor, new design possibilities were explored.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.121-133
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• 2017

This study investigates the design relation between shoulder line and sleeve line for designing bulky silhouettes as well as examines the trend sensitivity and design difference of each city through a comparison of the four cities collection (Paris, Milan, London, and New York). The results are as follows. In the four major fashion capitals, the rates of all-season coats were higher in 2014/15 F/W than those in the 2013/14 F/W season. At the 2014/15 F/W season, the proportion of the bulky silhouette coat, (including the fur and cape coat) increased and confirmed the bulky silhouette fashion trend. Second, an examining of the proportion of bulky silhouette coats manufactured by leading brands in major cities, indicated that London brands readily followed the trend of bulky silhouette coats when compared to other cities. This trend was also accepted by most brands in New York. Most brands in London and New York are highly compliant with the latest fashion trends. Third, the drop shoulder design was mostly presented in the shoulder pit of the bulky coat. In case of the sleeve, the shape of the jar was kept wide at the elbow line and made narrower toward the beak in most bulky silhouette coats. The importance of shoulder and sleeve design is clearly highlighted in the bulky silhouette coat. Fourth, detail design trends were different according to type of sleeve and shoulder fit. The results show the relationship between shoulder and sleeve design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.224-236
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• 2017

Kimono sleeves have continuously appeared in modern fashion as a design motif and this trend has become increasingly prevalent recently. However for research in the area of clothing composition for kimono sleeves in Korea, there has been a lack of development of master patterns based on basic data from the analysis of the standard body type of Korean people and finalized designs based on comparative experiments and analysis of pre-existing research Thus, there is no ideal master kimono sleeve pattern development research based on the examination of the results of the analysis of the standard body type of Korean people. Therefore by recognizing the importance of developing a master kimono sleeve pattern, this research aims to present a practical master kimono sleeve pattern for the standard body type of someone in their 30s. First, the four master patterns were collected and a dressing evaluation was conducted, and by selecting and improving one of these master designs, a final research master pattern was developed after a second dressing evaluation. Through this research, it was possible to design a master kimono sleeve pattern appropriate both externally and functionally for the standard body type of someone in their 30s, which has not been a consideration in previous research.