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http://dx.doi.org/10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.4.595

Study of design of kimono sleeve - Focused on the design characteristics of the kimono that appeared in 20th-century fashion -  

Kwon, Soon Kyo (Dept. of Pattern Modelism, Kookmin University)
Park, Sun Kyung (Dept. of Fashion Design, Kookmin University)
Publication Information
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture / v.23, no.4, 2015 , pp. 595-603 More about this Journal
Abstract
The influence of Japonism, which is the post-mid-$19^{th}$ century phenomenon of appreciating and preferring the Japanese style that manifested all across Western art, started to grow as a result of the active open-door policy of Japan at this time. As all areas of Japanese arts and culture, such as paintings, sculptures and theater plays, influenced Europe and America, this influence developed into a cultural phenomenon that was reflected even in fashion. The characteristic elements of the kimono first expanded from Paris and showed a similar silhouette to that of the traditional kimono in the early $20^{th}$ century, but towards the middle and the end of the century, kimono sleeves that were connected as one piece without a connecting seam line between the sleeve and bodice started to appear. The foundation of this research focuses on the design characteristics of kimono sleeves that can be seen in $20^{th}$-century fashion, and five varying kimono sleeve jackets and coats based on these formative characteristics were designed. Each design had a gusset design added, which improved the external and mobility problems inherent in kimono sleeve patterns, while at the same time serving as a proposal for new design element applications. Additionally, through various changes to and attempts at designs using the kimono sleeve as a limiting factor, new design possibilities were explored.
Keywords
Japonism; kimono sleeve; $20^{th}$-century fashion; gusset;
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