• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.969-977
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• 2007

The research thesis has been intended to make a comparative analysis on the basic bodice pattern and basic skirt pattern changing on the basis of setting waist line of dress form in an effort to set reasonable standards in selecting the standard lines of drees form. The thesis has made the wearing evaluation by producing the sample of upper and lower dress based on A pattern and B pattern. In details, A pattern functions to keep waist line flatly down from lateral waist-right to posterior waist in a little curved state, paralleling bust line and hipline with waistline. And, B pattern functions to keep waistline, bust line and hipline horizontal paralleling with ground surface. SPSS win 10.1 program was used for the analysis of evaluation and t-test. The result is as follows: For basic bodice-front of upper dress, A and B patterns have made little significant difference. With regard to basic bodice-back, B pattern has got the higher evaluation than A pattern, in the pattern stability and appearance. For basic skirt pattern, A pattern has got the lower evaluation in the aspect of total back appearance, back dart, hip line, and waist line, and front drape. Basic bodice pattern of A pattern, which takes on the different horizontal standard lines of dress form depending on the selection of waistline, and basic skirt pattern has scored less in terms of pattern stability and appearance.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.660-667
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to modify a Flared Skirt for women according to the somatotype of lower body. The subjects for the wear test were 3 students, who were in $mean{\pm}1{\sigma}$ each somatotype. The results of this study are as follows: First, the Flared Skirt pattern was modified according to each type. The front waist line rising measurement proposed for type 1 and type 2 were 0.5cm, because of lower front silhouette with waist shape. The back waist line rising measurement proposed for type 2 was 1cm and type 3 was 0.5cm, because of lower back shape with hip. Second, the wave-height of nodes were regular at front and back in type 1. Also, the wave-height of nodes were evenly distributed side and center. The variation ratio of wave-height of back nodes were lower than existing pattern in type 2 and type 3. It means the variation ratio of wave-height of back nodes were regular in modification pattern. Altogether, modification patterns were more regular and lower than existing pattern in the number of nodes, the distribution ratio of nodes, the wave-height of node, the variation ratio of wave height of nodes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.145-154
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• 2015

This study aims to identify the differences of body image when the stripe direction and width change of semi-tight skirt. The semi-tight skirt pattern was made using the standard size of a women in their 20s. 12 semi-tight skirt models combining 6 kinds of stripe directions and 2 kinds of stripe widths were made using CLO 3D virtual clothing system. The data was evaluated by 126 fashion design majors. The results were as follows; In accordance with the body image factor analysis of semi-tight skirt, three image factors were identified; whole body optical illusion, calf optical illusion and hip optical illusion. Among these factors, the whole body optical illusion factor is the most important factor. The body image depending on the stripe direction and width change of semi-tight skirt mostly showed the significant difference. In accordance with the analysis on the interaction effect of body image depending on the stripe direction and width change of semi-tight skirt, the whole body, calf and hip optical illusion factors showed the significance. The interaction of body image had independent influence on all factors of stripe direction and width. In particular, the interaction of stripe direction and width had the most significant influence on the whole body optical illusion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.178-194
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• 2011

Due to the population growth of the old aged, Korea is also entering into an aging society. But a research on the pattern design to the old aged is much to be desired. The purpose of this research is to design skirt pattern fitted for each body type by categorizing the lower body type of the old aged woman. For the way of research, categorized the body type by using the female measuring size from the 65 years old to 99 years old which has been measured by the Korean body size research as an assay data, and base on this data, a suitable skirt pattern for each body type of the old aged woman was designed by practicing the exterior evaluation. The data analysis was done with the statistical treatment in SPSS 12.0, and the results are as follows. The lower body type of the old aged woman were divided into the type 1. The circumference article is the biggest compared to the height article regarding to the lower body type of the old aged woman. The type 2. The height article and the circumference and thickness articles are the poorest. The type 3. The height article is the biggest and the hip width and calf circumference are thicker than the waist width. The type 4. The height article is the lowest and the waist width is thicker instead the hip and leg are thinner. In type 1, The pattern was modified by increasing 1cm a length of the dart and raising up 1.2cm at the cross point between side line and waist line. In type 2, the basic pattern was used, and in type 3, using the outline of the basic pattern however, increased 1cm a length of the dart and modified the amounts of dart by handling the art in curve, and modified the waist line to be more three-dimensional curves by raising up 1 cm at the cross point between waist line and side line and falling down 0.5cm at the cross point between the back center line and the waist line. In type 4, modified the amounts of front and back dart to 1.25cm, and raised up 0.8cm at the cross point between side line and waist line, and modified the waist line and the side seam line in a gentle curve by reducing circumference of the skirt tail to 1cm from the side seam line.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.155-166
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to provide the basic information about the elderly women's lower body type and anthropometric data by direct and indirect measurements, and to provide well fitting skirt patterns of each body types. Direct and indirect measurements were taken from 202 women, whose ages were between 60 and 79. Using statistical analysis, the lower body shapes of elderly women were classified into four following categories - \circled1 thin type, \circled2 typical type, \circled3 corpulence type and \circled4 corpulence but forward inclining type. Methods of modifying basic skirt patterns for each body types were suggested.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.46
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• pp.159-170
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• 1999

This study was for reasonable gathering by a fabric and a skirt length. So the purpose of this study was to show the basic data to forecast the gathering effect of gathered skirt which was more aesthetical and suitable for a use in time of making pattern. To find the reasonable gathering amount by a length of gathered skirt and a fabric the methods of this study were divided on three types-five kinds of the gathering amounts three kinds of fabrics and three kinds of skirt ength-so forty five kinds of the samples were made. As the visual evaluation of the gathered skirt were practiced bgy these factors. The following are the results of this research. 1. For this research of fabrics the gathering amounts which were shown visually the most aesthetical silhouette in the same material and skirt length were decided on 1.5 times or 2.0 times. On the other side 0.5 times and 2.5 times of gathering amount were got a low estimation visually 2. Except in case the skirt length was 40cm and gathering amount were 1.0 times and 1.5 times in the same gathering amount and length of skirt it was estimated that wool fabric was most aesthetical silhouette fabric. On the other hand it was got low estimation which the cotton was not good for draping effect because it was got the lowest estimation level in all cases. 3. Considered as a whole in the same gathering amount and fabric the fabric widths for gathering which were shown the most aesthetical silhouette were estimated the length of 60cm in cotton fabric 80cm in polyester fabric and 40cm in wool fabric. Therefore as a fabric was weighty a length of a skirt was shorten so, it was estimated visually more beautiful.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.5-22
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• 2000

The study on the past costume should be done first for the creation of new style of fashion. That is one of the reasons why we have to annalize characteristic style in each period. Before the latter of nineteenth century one must have made the costume by draping design. Because the complicated clothes can be expressed by draping deign think that the subject draping design is even more important than other subject. But there haven't been the studies that analyzed the pattern of Art Nouveau style by draping design in Korea. Art Nouveau style is a certain one that was relatively more changeable than the ones of other periods. The purpose of this study is the analysis about the patterns of hourglass and S-curve style which represented the Art Nouveau style. The results of the study summarized as follows. 1. Bodice pattern : In the front Hourglass silhouette has the princess line for fitting bodice while S-curve silhouette has the wide midriff due to the blousing. There is the yoke in S-curve one. In the pattern of back bodice we can't see the much differences but Hourglass silhouette is used the princess line like the front one while S-curve is made use of the waist darts for fitting back. 2. Sleeve pattern : Hourglass silhouette is made of two pieces the upper part and lower part besides S-curve is consisted of one pieces. The former has the big upper part in order to the emphasis of the shoulder and the tight lower part. The latter is the tight sleeve that similar to the basic sleeve pattern at present. 3. Skirt pattern: There is partially a gored line in the front skirt in Hourglass silhouette however S-curve silhouette is consisted of the six pieces gored skirt. At this part we can also see the fact that s-curve is more complicated than Hourglass silhouette. 4. Others: Wecan find out the differences between Hourglass and S-curve pattern easily at the parts of the collar flounce wing and so on. Summing up, the patterns of S-curve style are more expanded than those of Hourgalss style for the most part.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.283-292
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze and compare the color characteristics of preferred summer clothing textiles, such as shirts, blouse, slacks and skirt. 109 male and female college students evaluated the preference to clothing textiles in previous research and top 10 kinds of textiles were chosen for each clothing item. To analyze the color characteristics of preferred textiles, spectral data were measured with spectrophotometer. By the results, color and color tone, value of L, a, b according to clothing item and season were compared. Chromaticity diagram was drawn, too. The results of this study are as following: 1. Color characteristics of shirts textile college student preferred for summer was PB color and p tone. The textile, in general, represented simple color that is close to achromatic color with light and soft shade. 2. The most preferred color of blouse textiles was G color and It, d tone. The color characteristics of blouse textiles represented stronger and more brilliant than those of shirts. 3. For slacks, colors of preferred summer textiles were mostly B, YR color and p, It.g, dk tone. Therefore, preferred textiles for slacks represented simple bluish or brownish color that is close to achromatic color with light or dark shade. 4. The most preferred color of skirt textiles were Y, R color and It tone. Skirt textiles had various colors compared to slacks. 5. College students generally prefer simple cold color that is close to achromatic color, because shirts and slacks have high frequency of wearing. In color tone, light and soft tone were preferred for shirts, and for slacks, they preferred light or dark tone. Comparatively, blouse and skirt which have low frequency of wearing represented various colors which contain more brilliant and stronger toned warm colors. 6. By the result of analyzing L, a, b value, shirts and blouse textiles showed higher L value than those of slacks and skirt. The textiles preferred by college students were generally close to achromatic color, because values of a, b were very low. This was confirmed with the result of chromaticity diagram. 7. In pattern of preferred textiles, solid textile were preferred mostly for shirt, blouse, skirt and slacks, and stripe pattern was preferred secondly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.57-67
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• 1984

The purpose of this study is to develop a devided skist Pattern drafting method for Korean Women between the ages of 18$\~$24 on the basis of their physical characteristics which differs from those of other races in its size and figure. The study procednras are as follows : 1, A new devided skirt pattern drafting method is developed based on the results of draping to find the essential measuring items for devided skirt construction, 27 items of KAIST measurement data analysis to establish representative and independent items and fitting tests. 2. To establish fittness and comfort in the new pattern comparing it with in a conventional one, asensory evaluation is applied. According to the statistical analysis of the results of the sensory evaluation, the findings are as followings ; 1. Composite reliability coefficient is 0.68. 2. Qut of 30 items, 25 items for fittness show significant differences (pp$\leqq$0.05, p$\leqq$0.01, P$\leqq$0.001) between the two, with the new pattern better fitted, presenting a pleasing appearance in hormony with the figure and contributing to the wearer's sense of wellbeing. 3. Hip crotch and hem dimensions for comfort show significant differences (p$\leqq$0.05) between the two, with the new pattern more comfortable, but no significant difference is showed between the two in activity variable. 4. The new pattern drafting method is shown in figuke 4.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.286-298
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to find the proper width of fabric which can bring high efficiency on productivity. We focus on the marking method by comparing and analyzing the marking efficiency of flare skirt. This study employs 4 criteria to mark the flare skirt, which are angle, location, width, and direction, respectively. There can be 3 different angles$(180^{\circ},\;270^{\circ},\;360^{\circ})$, and 2 different locations(the center line and the middle of the pattern) according to fixing of the warp line of the fabric. Also, width can be classified into 2 groups(110cm, 150cm), and marking direction can be grouped into 2(one direction marker and one direction per each size marker). These 4 criteria make $24(3{\times}2{\times}2{\times}2)$ cases for this study. Main findings are follows. Fist, the skirt with the 150cm width has higher efficiency rate than that of 110cm. Second, fixing the warp line at the center line has higher efficiency rate than that in the middle. Finally, per size marker has much higher efficiency than the just direction marker. In sum, we find that 150cm width with the center warp line and per size marker brings the highest efficiency rate.