• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.1
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• pp.65-73
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• 2021

It is very important to control the inflammation of the skin because it can develop into diseases such as atopy as well as scarring and aging. In this work, we recently identified the in vitro synthesis of specialized pro-resolving mediators (SPMs) known to control inflammation in the human body and the applicability of cosmetics. Using recombinant protein of lipoxygenase from Glycine max, we succeeded to prepare mixtures of mono- or di-hydroxy DHA named as S-SPMs and used them for in vitro efficacy test. To investigate anti-inflammatory effect of S-SPMs, mRNA level of TNF-α and IL-6 were analyzed. Under UVB exposed condition, expression of both were decreased by S-SPMs treatment. And we observed reduced production of nitric oxide (NO) by S-SPMs application under the condition with diesel particulate matter (DPM). At the same experimental condition, malondialdehyde (MDA) production was decreased by S-SPMs, indicating the inhibitory effect of S-SPMs in lipid peroxidation. In addition, S-SPMs treatment resulted in reduction of matrix metalloproteinases-1 (MMP-1) expression and elevation of procollagen type I synthesis. Together with this, mRNA level of filaggrin and loricrin were increased by S-SPMs, indicating enhancement of skin barrier function. These results demonstrate that S-SPMs is a good candidate to develop as a cosmetic ingredient for anti-inflammation, anti-wrinkle, and improvement of skin barrier function.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.458-463
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• 2011

Recent studies have revealed that collagen peptide (CP) plays a protective role in skin by improving the activity of antioxidants and acts as an inducer of skin regeneration by positive feedback. In this study, we focused on the beneficial effect of reinforcing the CP skin barrier. To evaluate the skin barrier, hairless mice were exposed to UVB irradiation and acetone-treatment, with or without oral administration of CP. The effects on skin appearance, trans-epidermal water loss, epidermal thickness, and cytokine content were measured using bioengineering and histochemical methods. In the CP treated group, the skin had better appearance and less damage than that of the control. Furthermore, in HaCaT cells, the amount of serinepalmytoyl transferase (SPT) mRNA increased by about 1.6-fold after treatment (CP, 100 mg/L), reflecting that CP can induce SPT expression and reinforce the recovery of skin barrier function. These results suggest that CP is not only an anti-wrinkling agent but also a potent candidate as an epidermal moisturizer.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.1
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• pp.49-56
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• 2021

In this study, a liquid crystal emulsion with a composition ratio similar to the skin lipid composition was manufactured using ceramide, glycolipids, cholesterol, and fatty acids, and a polarized microscope was used to identify liquid crystal particles in the formulation, and a cryso-SEM was used to confirm the formation of a multilayer structure. The above samples were stored at room temperature for one month and the liquid crystal structure was continuously maintained through microscopic observation. In addition, a cream composition containing liquid crystal emulsion was manufactured, and the efficiency of ceramide skin penetration was confirmed using three-dimensional artificial skin. Clinical trials were conducted using the cream composition and the results of clinical trials on skin barrier improvement were confirmed by measuring skin moisture retention (skin hydration) and transepidermal water loss (T EWL) of subjects compared to general emulsion.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.1
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• pp.87-96
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• 2023

This study was conducted to discover substances that regulate skin surface acidification using human epidermal keratinocyte cell lines, and to investigate their effects on the moisturizing ability and skin barrier function of the stratum corneum. Prunella vulgaris (P. vulgaris) is an herb widely distributed in Northwest Africa and North America that has been studied for its anti-apoptotic, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects. However, research on the regulation of NHE1 expression and the restoration of skin barrier function has not been conducted. Analysis of P. vulgaris revealed the presence of rosmarinic acid and caffeic acid as active ingredients, which were tested for toxicity in human epidermal keratinocyte cell lines (HaCaT), and showed no toxic effects were observed at high concentarion (100 ㎍/mL or 100 µM). It is known that sodium-hydrogen ion exchange pumps (NHE1) decrease in expression in aging skin to maintain the acidic pH of the stratum corneum, and it is hypothesized that this decrease plays an important role in the impaired restoration of skin barrier function in aging skin. P. vulgaris extract and caffeic acid increased the expression of NHE1 in keratinocytes, increased the expression of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) precursor filaggrin and ceramide synthesis enzyme serine palmitoyl transferase (SPT). In addition, P. vulgaris and caffeic acid decreased the extracellular pH of keratinocytes, indicating a direct effect on skin pH regulation. Taken together, these results suggest that P. vulgaris and caffeic acid can regulate skin pH through NHE1 modulation, and may help to restore skin barrier function by increasing NMF and ceramide synthesis. These results show the possibility that honeysuckle and caffeic acid can have a positive effect on skin health, and can be the basis for the development of new skin protection products using them.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.119-126
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• 2016

Skin is the largest organ that protects the body from the external environmental factors such as smog, cigarette smoke, UV. Protective skin barrier is composed with keratinizational keratinocytes and intercellular lipids such as ceramides, cholesterols and fatty acids combined by the lamellar liquid crystal structure. In this research, we confirmed that the Jeju wild ginseng (JWG) extracts dose-dependently increased the expression of serine-palmitoyltransferase (SPT) protein which is associated with ceramide biosynthesis. In addition, emulsion containing 5% JWG extract was applied on skin of human volunteers for 2 weeks and then significantly reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) compared to that of control group. As a results, JWG extract increased the biosynthesis of ceramides that is the key components of the skin lipid through enhancing expression of SPT. In addition, JWG extract reduced TEWL resulting in improvement of skin barrier function. In this context, we suggest that JWG extract could be used as a skin barrier enhancer and moisturing agents in cosmetic fileds.

• Journal of Ginseng Research
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.354-360
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• 2021

Background: Protopanaxatriol (PPT) is a secondary intestinal metabolite of ginsenoside in ginseng. Although the effects of PPT have been reported in various diseases including cancer, diabetes and inflammatory diseases, the skin protective effects of PPT are poorly understood. Methods: HaCaT cells were treated with PPT in a dose-dependent manner. mRNA and protein levels which related to skin barrier and hydration were detected compared with retinol. Luciferase assay was performed to explore the relative signaling pathway. Western blot was conducted to confirm these pathways and excavated further signals. Results: PPT enhanced the expression of filaggrin (FLG), transglutaminase (TGM)-1, claudin, occludin and hyaluronic acid synthase (HAS) -1, -2 and -3. The mRNA expression levels of FLG, TGM-1, HAS-1 and HAS-2 were suppressed under NF-κB inhibition. PPT significantly augmented NF-κB-luc activity and upregulated Src/AKT/NF-κB signaling. In addition, PPT also increased phosphorylation of the mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs) ERK, JNK and p38 and upstream MAPK activators (MEK and MKK). Furthermore, transcriptional activity of AP-1 and CREB, which are downstream signaling targets of MAPK, was enhanced by PPT. Conclusion: PPT improves skin barrier function and hydration through Src/AKT/NF-κB and MAPK signaling. Therefore, PPT may be a valuable component for cosmetics or treating skin disorders.

• Biomedical Science Letters
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.231-238
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• 2021

Several structural proteins present in keratinocytes of the skin are known to play an important role in the formation of epidermal tissue and barrier function, and the absence of structural proteins in keratinocytes causes various skin diseases. In this study, 42 types of tetrapeptides derived from the sequence of Loricrin, a kind of terminally differentiating structural protein, were synthesized, and skin anti-aging properties were measured by measuring the elastase inhibition, proliferation of skin cells. The anti-aging efficacy was verified and, based on this, it succeeded in selecting one of the most excellent peptides. It is expected that the selected tetrapeptide can be used as a raw material for various cosmetics and quasi-drugs based on anti-aging and skin cell proliferation effects.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.29 no.2 s.43
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• pp.205-232
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• 2003

Ursolic acid (UA) and Oleanolic acid (ONA), known as urson, micromerol and malol, are pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds which naturally occur in a large number of vegetarian foods, medicinal herbs, and plants. They may occur in their free acid form or as aglycones for triterpenoid saponins, which are comprised of a triterpenoid aglycone, linked to one or more sugar moieties. Therefore UA and ONA are similar in pharmacological activity. Lately scientific research, which led to the identification of UA and ONA, revealed that several pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, hepato-protective, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperlipidemic could be attributed to UA and ONA. Here, we introduced the effect of UA and ONA on acutely barrier disrupted and normal hairless mouse skin. To evaluate the effects of UA and ONA on epidermal permeability barrier recovery, both flanks of 8-12 week-old hairless mice were topically treated with either 0.01-0.1 mg/ml UA or 0.1-1 mg/ml ONA after tape stripping, and TEWL (Transepidermal water loss) was measured . The recovery rate increased in those UA or ONA treated groups (0.1 mg/ml UA and 0.5 mg/ml ONA) at 6 h more than $20\%$ compared to vehicle treated group (p<0.05). Here, we introduced the effects of UA and ONA on acute barrier disruption and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. For verifying the effects of UA and ONA on normal epidermal barrier, hydration and TEWL were measured for 1 and 3 weeks after UA and ONA applications (2mg/ml per day). We also investigated the features of epidermis and dermis using electron microscopy (EM) and light microscopy (LM). Both samples increased hydration compared to vehicle group from f week without TEWL alteration (p<0.005). EM examination using RuO4 and OsO4 fixation revealed that secretion and numbers of lamellar bodies and complete formation of lipid bilayers were most prominent $(ONA{\geq}UA>Vehicle)$. LM finding showed that thickness of stratum corneum (SC) was slightly increased and especially epidermal thickening and flattening was observed (UA>ONA>Veh). We also observed that UA and ONA stimulate epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via $PPAR\;\alpha$. Protein expression of involucrin, loricrin, and filaggrin increased at least 2 and 3 fold in HaCaT cells treated with either $ONA\;(10{\mu}M)$ or UA $(10{\mu}M)$ for 24h respectively. This result suggested that the UA and ONA can improve epidermal permeability barrier function and induce the epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via $PPAR\;{\alpha}$. Using Masson-trichrome and elastic fiber staining, we observed collagen thickening and elastic fiber elongation by UA and ONA treatments. In vitro results of collagen and elastin synthesis and elastase inhibitory activity measurements were also confirmed in vivo findings. These data suggested that the effects of UA and ONA related to not only epidermal permeability barrier functions but also dermal collagen and elastic fiber synthesis. Taken together, UA and ONA can be relevant candidates to improve epidermal and dermal functions and pertinent agents for cosmeseutical applications.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.49 no.5
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• pp.519-523
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• 2017

We investigated the applications of functional materials through the examination of a variety of physiological activities of Ipomoea aquatica extract. I. aquatica extract showed low cytotoxicity against murine melanoma B16F10 cells. At concentrations that exerted little or no cytotoxicity to the cells, I. aquatica extract showed high DPPH radical scavenging activity ($ID_{50}$, $7.84{\mu}g/mL$), inhibited tyrosinase activity ($ID_{50}$, $106.56{\mu}g/mL$), and decreased melanin content ($ID_{50}$, $41.75{\mu}g/mL$). The treatment of B16F10 cells with I. aquatica extract suppressed the protein expression of tyrosinase in a dose-dependent manner. These findings suggested that I. aquatica extract inhibited melanin synthesis in murine melanoma B16F10 cells through the suppression of intracellular tyrosinase expression, as well as the simultaneous direct inhibition of tyrosinase activity. Additionally, I. aquatica extract promoted the expression of involucrin, which is related to skin barrier protection. These results indicate that I. aquatica extract may be an appropriate material for the improvement of skin barrier function.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.344-348
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• 2018

We investigated the application of functional materials by examining a variety of physiological activities of Abelmoschus esculentus extract. A. esculentus extract had a low cytotoxicity against murine melanoma B16F10 cells. At concentrations showing little or no cytotoxicity, A. esculentus extract showed high a DPPH radical scavenging activity ($ID_{50}$, $5.24{\mu}g/mL$), inhibited tyrosinase activity ($ID_{50}$, $102.12{\mu}g/mL$), and decreased melanin content ($ID_{50}$, $17.85{\mu}g/mL$). The treatment of B16F10 cells with A. esculentus extract suppressed the protein expression of tyrosinase in a dose-dependent manner. These findings suggest that A. esculentus extract inhibits melanin synthesis in murine melanoma B16F10 cells by suppressing intracellular tyrosinase expression, as well as directly inhibits tyrosinase activity simultaneously. Additionally, A. esculentus extract promotes the expression of involucrin, which is related to skin barrier protection. These results indicate that A. esculentus extract is an appropriate material for improving skin barrier function.