• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.43 no.4
• /
• pp.329-335
• /
• 2017

We have studied on the keratinocytes differentiation and skin barrier function using Adenophorae radix (A. radix) root extract, which was known to contain triterpenoid, saponin and starch. A. radix root extracts showed the $PPAR{\alpha}$ expression level of Wy-14,643 $0.5-1.0{\mu}M$ in CV-1 cells. The cornified envelop formation (CE) of human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT) and normal human keratinocyte (NHK) showed a statistically significant increased compared to the control. When HaCaT cells were treated with A. radix root extract, transglutaminase (TGase-1) was significantly increased. As a result of clinical study of the simple cosmetic formulation containing A. radix root extract for about 2 weeks, TEWL values were significantly decreased and water contents were increased. The ceramides, which were obtained from the inner forearm, were also significantly increased statistically. We suggest that the A. radix root extract can be used as a preventive and therapeutic agent for skin diseases such as dry skin and atopy.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.34 no.2
• /
• pp.93-99
• /
• 2008

Until now, (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate(EGCG) is known as the most powerful antioxidant among green tea catechins having many beneficial effects on human skin. Considering that the content of catechins is variable according to many conditions such as solvent, temperature and pressure, we prepared the heat-epimerized-EGCG-mixture (HE-EGCG-mix) containing high content of gallocatechin-3-gallate(GCG) by epimerization during autoclaving process and found out its optimal condition for maximizing conversion from EGCG to GCG. To investigate the effects of EGCG and HE-EGCG-mix on skin barrier function, we performed in vivo experiments with hairless mice. We found that HE-EGCG-mix has more potent stimulating activity than EGCG for the production of involucrin 7(INV7) and for recovery of barrier function in SKH-1 mice. Also, we found that GCG stimulates $PPAR-{\alpha}$ transactivation more effectively than EGCG in vitro by transient transfection assay for $PPAR-{\alpha}$ activation activity. These imply that HE-EGCG-mix consisting of high content of GCG should stimulate more efficiently recovery of skin barrier through PPAR-mediated-kerationocyte differentiation than EGCG. In conclusion, our study may provide a possibility that GCG, the C-2 epimer of EGCG, could be a potentially effective agent for development of new cosmetics or health foods for recovery of skin barrier.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.46 no.3
• /
• pp.307-317
• /
• 2020

The barrier structure of the skin's epidermis is a key structure to prevent the loss of water inside the body and the invasion of foreign substances, and is composed of keratinocytes and intercellular lipids. At this time, the intercellular lipids of the skin barrier has the strongest structure when packed in an orthorhombic structure. However, it is damaged by various external causes and changes to a hexagonal structure. This change in physical structure can be analyzed non-invasively by analyzing the signal of the CH₂-CH₂ scissoring band of lipids using FT-IR. In this study, SDS was treated on porcine skin to construct a skin barrier damage model, and the degree of change in packing structure was quantified by analyzing FT-IR signals. We then judged whether the barrier of the damage model was recovered according to the treatment of the cosmetic formulation. From these results, an indirect method of measuring the water evaporation of the skin barrier to date can be supplemented. In addition, physical changes in the structure of the skin barrier can be utilized in a direct and efficient manner to identify the function and verify the formulation of various materials.

• Natural Product Sciences
• /
• v.27 no.4
• /
• pp.300-306
• /
• 2021

Chronic ultraviolet (UV) radiation causes photoaging, which represents skin damage, disrupts skin barrier function, and promotes wrinkle formation. We investigated that the polysaccharide extract of an edible basidiomycetous white jelly mushroom, Tremella fuciformis, (TF-Glucan^®) exhibited statistically photoprotective activity by inhibiting matrix metalloproteases (MMPs) and increasing collagen synthesis, and an anti-inflammatory activity by inhibiting nitric oxide and pro-inflammatory cytokines at the concentrations of less than 1000 ㎍/ml, which is not cytotoxic (p < 0.05). Additionally, TF-Glucan^® increased the expression of involucrin and filaggrin to prevent the disruption of UVB-induced barrier function (p < 0.05). TF-Glucan^® was assessed as a safe material by the human primary skin irritation (1, 3, 5%), human repeated insult patch test (no sensitization at 5%), 3T3 NRU phototoxicity assay (no phototoxicity, PIF < 2, MPE < 0.1), eye irritation test test by BCOP (no category, IVIS ≤ 3) and local lymph node assay (negative at 10, 25, 50%) for identifying potential skin sensitizing. These results suggest that TF-Glucan^® may be useful as an anti-photoaging ingredient for developing cosmeceuticals.

• Preventive Nutrition and Food Science
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.15-21
• /
• 2015

The skin plays a key role in protecting the body from the environment and from water loss. Cornified envelope (CE) and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) are considered as the primary regulators of skin hydration and barrier function. The CE prevents loss of water from the body and is formed by cross-linking of several proteins. Among these proteins, filaggrin is an important protein because NMF is produced by the degradation of filaggrin. Proteases, including matriptase and prostasin, stimulate the generation of filaggrin from profilaggrin and caspase-14 plays a role in the degradation of filaggrin. This study elucidated the effects of an ethanol extract of Boesenbergia pandurata (Roxb.) Schltr., known as fingerroot, and its active compound panduratin A on CE formation and filaggrin processing in HaCaT, human epidermal keratinocytes. B. pandurata extract (BPE) and panduratin A significantly stimulated not only CE formation but also the expression of CE proteins, such as loricrin, involucrin, and transglutaminase, which were associated with $PPAR{\alpha}$ expression. The mRNA and protein levels of filaggrin and filaggrin-related enzymes, such as matriptase, prostasin, and caspase-14 were also up-regulated by BPE and panduratin A treatment. These results suggest that BPE and panduratin A are potential nutraceuticals which can enhance skin hydration and barrier function based on their CE formation and filaggrin processing.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Veterinary Clinics Conference
• /
• 2007.10a
• /
• pp.560-560
• /
• 2007

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
• /
• 1999.10a
• /
• pp.132-132
• /
• 1999

In the cosmetics field, facial skins have been classified into four types according to self estimation as well as physiological parameters. The aim of this study is to understand skin condition in the levels and composition of stratum corneum (SC) lipids, and to propose new classification for skin types. We assessed the relationship between the SC lipid composition and the self-estimated skin types or physiological parameters of the skin. Sensitive skin has been of great concern over the last decades, and it should be recognized as a skin type. Therefore, we also investigated the influence of the SC lipid composition on variations of sensitivity evaluated by the Stinging Test. Fifty-five healthy Japanese women aged 22-44 participated in this study. Skin biopsies were taken from facial skin using polyethylene sheet with cyanoacrylate. SC lipids were extracted and separated into individual lipid classes. The combined ceramides and cholesterol were quantified by HPTLC. Free fatty acid was quantified according to the ACS-ACOD method. Instrumental measurements were made at the site around the biopsy. In addition, the Stinging Test and a sensory evaluation questionnaire were administered to all subjects. The generally recognized O-D skin type classification is dependent on the consumer`s subjective assessment with respect to their skin troubles. The product of hydration state and skin surface lipid level showed a significant correlation with self-estimated skin types. The oily-dry skin type classified according to physiological parameters as well as SC lipid levels should be characterized as delicate skin with its barrier function deteriorating in the winter. Two groups of sensitive skin were established. One is the barrier function of the skin is deteriorated, and another is the sebaceous gland activity is in decline.

• Proceedings of the Plant Resources Society of Korea Conference
• /
• 2023.04a
• /
• pp.40-40
• /
• 2023

Atopic dermatitis is a chronic inflammatory skin diseases caused by skin barrier dysfunction. Allium victoralis var. Platyphyllum (AVP) is a perennial plant used as vegetable and herbal medicine. The purpose of this study was to suggest that AVP is a new cosmetic material by examining the effects of AVP on the skin barrier and inflammatory response. A bibliometric network analysis was performed through keyword co-occurrence analysis by extracting author keyword from 69 articles retrieved from SCOPUS. We noted the anti-inflammatory activity shown by the results of clustering and mapping from network visualization analysis using VOSviewer software tool. HPLC-UV analysis showed that AVP contains 0.12 ± 0.02 mg/g of chlorogenic acid and 0.10 ± 0.01 mg/g of gallic acid. AVP at 100 ㎍/mL was shown to increase the mRNA levels of filaggrin and involucrin related to skin barrier function by 1.50-fold and 1.43-fold, respectively. In the scratch assay, AVP at concentrations of 100 ㎍/mL and 200 ㎍/mL significantly increased the cell migration rate and narrowed the scratch area. In addition, AVP suppressed the increase of inflammation-related factors COX-2 and NO and decreased the release of β-hexosaminidase. This study suggests that AVP can be developed as a functional cosmetic material for atopy management through skin barrier protection effects, anti-inflammatory and anti-itch effects.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
• /
• v.40 no.6
• /
• pp.686-690
• /
• 2008

Recent research has shown that curcumin has beneficial effects in a variety of skin diseases, including scleroderma, psoriasis, and skin cancer. In this study, we assessed the effects of curcumin on epidermal permeability barrier function in vivo and in vitro. In order to evaluate the effects of curcumin on epidermal permeability barrier function in vivo, hairless rats were exposed to UVB irradiation, and curcumin was administered orally at a dosage of 150 mg/kg per day for 8 weeks. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and epidermal thickness were measured at the end of the experiment. The expression of filaggrin, a marker of keratinocyte differentiation, and serine palmitoyltransferase (SPT), a marker of the formation of the stratum corneum lipid barrier, in human HaCat keratinocytes were analyzed. The in vivo results showed that an 8 week administration of curcumin markedly prevented the UVB-induced increase in TEWL. The UV-induced increase in epidermal thickness was also reduced significantly by curcumin treatment. The in vitro results demonstrated the concentration-dependent effects of curcumin on the expression of both filaggrin and SPT in HaCat cells, reflecting the notion that curcumin can induce epidermal keratinocyte differentiation and can improve the recovery of skin barrier functions. These results show that curcumin is a promising candidate for the improvement of epidermal permeability barrier function.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.46 no.4
• /
• pp.391-401
• /
• 2020

Flavonoids are polyphenolic compounds derived from plants metabolites and are known to be capable of controlling various human physiological functions. Among them, fisetin (3,3', 3', 7-tetrahydroxyflavone) is found in various fruits and vegetables, and it has been recently known to restore the function of certain tissues through senolytic activity. In this study, targeting human epidermal keratinocytes, control of skin barrier genes and antioxidant efficacy of fisetin were analyzed. Fisetin increased the activity of telomerase and decreased the expression of CDKN1B. In addition, it increased the expression of KRT1, FLG, IVL, and DSP, which are main genes that make up the skin barrier. The fisetin also increased the expression of CerS3 and CerS4 genes, which are forms of ceramide synthases. These results show that the efficacy of fisetin is not limited as senolytics but is also involved in various physiological regulation of human keratinocytes. Therefore, we consider that fisetin could be used as an active ingredient in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.