• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book II
• /
• pp.108-109
• /
• 2003

Ursolic acid (UA) and Oleanolic acid (ONA), known as urson, micromerol, prunol and malol, are pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds which naturally occur in a large number of vegetarian foods, medicinal herbs, and plants. They may occur in their free acid form or as aglycones for triterpenoid saponins, which are comprised of a triterpenoid aglycone, linked to one or more sugar moieties. Therefore UA and ON A are similar in pharmacological activity. Lately scientific research, which led to the identification of UA and ONA, revealed that several pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, hepatoprotective, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperlipidemic could be attributed to UA and ONA. Here, we introduced the effects of UA and ONA on acute barrier disruption and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. To clarify the effects of UA and ONA on skin barrier recovery, both flank skin of 8-12 weeks hairless mice were topically treated with samples (2mg/ml) after tape stripping, then measured recovery rate using TEWL on hairless mice. The recovery rate increased in UA and ONA treated groups at 6h more than 20% compared to vehicle treated group (p <0.05). For verifying the effects of UA and ONA on normal epidermal barrier, hydration and TEWL were measured for 1 and 3 weeks after UA and ONA applications (2mg/ml per day). We also investigated the features of epidermis and dermis using electron microscopy (EM) and light microscopy (LM). Both samples increased hydration compared to Vehicle group from 1 week without TEWL alteration (p<0.005). EM examination using Ru04 and OsO4 fixation revealed that secretion and numbers of lamellar bodies and complete formation of lipid bilayers were most prominent (ONA$\geq$UA>Vehicle). LM finding showed that stratum corneum was slightly increased and especially epidermal thickening and flattening was observed (UA>ONA>Vehicle). Using Masson-trichrome and elastic fiber staining, we observed collagen thickening and elastic fiber increasing by UA and ONA treatments. In vitro results of collagen and elastin synthesis and elastase inhibitory experiments were also confirmed in vivo findings. This result suggested that the effects of UA and ONA related to not only skin barrier but also collagen and elastic fibers. Taken together, UA and ONA can be relevant candidates to improve barrier function and pertinent agents for cosmetic applications.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
• /
• 제27권6호
• /
• pp.553-561
• /
• 2019

Rab25, a member of the Rab11 small GTPase family, is central to achieving cellular polarity in epithelial tissues. Rab25 is highly expressed in epithelial cells of various tissues including breast, vagina, cervix, the gastrointestinal tract, and skin. Rab25 plays key roles in tumorigenesis, mainly by regulating epithelial differentiation and proliferation. However, its role in skin physiology is relatively unknown. In this study, we demonstrated that Rab25 knock-out (KO) mice show a skin barrier dysfunction with high trans-epidermal water loss and low cutaneous hydration. To examine this observation, we investigated the histology and epidermal differentiation markers of the skin in Rab25 KO mice. Rab25 KO increased cell proliferation at the basal layer of epidermis, whereas the supra-basal layer remained unaffected. Ceramide, which is a critical lipid component for skin barrier function, was not altered by Rab25 KO in its distribution or amount, as determined by immunohistochemistry. Notably, levels of epidermal differentiation markers, including loricrin, involucrin, and keratins (5, 14, 1, and 10) increased prominently in Rab25 KO mice. In line with this, depletion of Rab25 with single hairpin RNA increased the expression of differentiation markers in a human keratinocyte cell line, HaCaT. Transcriptomic analysis of the skin revealed increased expression of genes associated with skin development, epidermal development, and keratinocyte differentiation in Rab25 KO mice. Collectively, these results suggested that Rab25 is involved in the regulation of epidermal differentiation and proliferation.

• 대한화장품학회지
• /
• 제43권4호
• /
• pp.329-335
• /
• 2017

Triterpenoid, saponin, 전분 등이 함유되어 있는 것으로 알려진 Adenophorae radix (A. radix)의 뿌리 추출물을 이용하여 각질형성세포의 분화와 피부장벽기능에 대한 연구를 수행하였다. A. radix의 뿌리 추출물은 CV-1 세포를 이용하여 $PPAR{\alpha}$ 발현을 살펴본 결과, Wy-14,643 $0.5-1.0{\mu}M$ 수준의 발현양을 나타내었다. 인체 각질형성 세포주(HaCaT)와 각질형성세포(nomal human keratinocyte)에 대한 각질형성능(cornified envelop formation, CE)은 대조군에 비해 통계적으로 유의한 증가를 보였다. HaCaT 세포에 A. radix의 뿌리 추출물 처리하였을 때, transglutaminase (TGase-1)의 유의적 증가를 보였다. A. radix의 뿌리 추출물을 함유한 간단한 화장품 제형을 약 2주간에 걸쳐 임상시험을 실시한 결과, TEWL의 유의적 감소와 수분량의 증가를 살펴볼 수 있었으며, 하박 내측에서 지질을 추출하여 세라마이드를 분석한 결과 통계적으로 유의한 증가를 관찰할 수 있었다. 이를 통하여 A. radix의 뿌리 추출물을 건조피부나 아토피 등의 피부질환과 관련된 질환의 예방 및 치료제로 사용될 수 있을 것이다.

• 대한화장품학회지
• /
• 제34권2호
• /
• pp.93-99
• /
• 2008

지금까지 (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate(EGCG)는 인간의 피부에 유용한 녹차 카테킨 중에서 가장 강력한 항산화 성분으로 알려져 왔다. 본 연구팀은 용매, 온도, 압력 등 다양한 조건을 변화시키며, 멸균과정(autoclaving) 중에 발생하는 이성질체화(epimerization) 과정을 연구하여, gallocatechin-3-gallate(GCG) 함량이 크게 증가된 열전환-EGCG-복합체(heat-epimerzied-EGCG-mixture, HE-EGCG-mix)를 순수한 EGCG로부터 조제 하였다. 이러한 열전환-EGCG-복합체는 무모쥐 SKH-1을 이용한 실험에서, 손상된 피부 장벽의 회복 시에 인보루크린 7(involucrin 7) 단백질의 발현량을 EGCG 처리 시보다 증가시킴을 확인하였다. 또한, in vitro 실험을 통하여 GCG는 $PPAR-{\alpha}$에 대한 전이활성(transactivation) 효과가 EGCG보다 뛰어남을 확인하였다. 이러한 결과는 열전환-EGCG-복합체에 함유된 고함량의 GCG 성분에 의해서, 피부 장벽 손상 회복 시 PPAR에 의해 매개된 각질형성세포(keratinocyte)의 분화가 더욱 촉진될 수 있음을 암시한다. 따라서, EGCG의 C-2 에피머(epimer)인 GCG는 녹차 카테킨을 이용한 피부 장벽 개선 용도의 화장품과 건강식품 개발 시 주요 소재로 활용될 수 있다.

• 대한화장품학회지
• /
• 제46권3호
• /
• pp.307-317
• /
• 2020

피부 표피의 장벽 구조는 신체 내부의 수분 손실을 방지하고 외부의 이물질의 침입을 막는데 핵심적인 구조이고 각질세포와 세포간 지질로 구성된다. 이 때, 피부 장벽의 세포간 지질은 orthorhombic 구조로 패킹되어있을 때 가장 강한 구조를 가지고 있다. 그러나 다양한 외부 원인에 의해 손상되어 hexagonal 구조로 변화한다. 이런 물리적인 구조의 변화는 FT-IR을 이용하여 지질의 CH₂-CH₂ scissoring band의 시그널은 분석하여 비 침습적으로 분석 가능하다. 본 연구에서는 SDS를 Porcine skin에 처리하여 피부 장벽 손상모델을 구축하고 FT-IR signal을 분석하여 패킹구조의 변화 정도를 수치화 하였다. 이후 화장품 제형의 처리에 따라서 손상 모델의 장벽 회복 여부를 판단하였다. 이를 통하여 기존의 피부 장벽의 수분 증발량을 분석하는 간접적인 측정 방식을 보완할 수 있다. 또한, 피부 장벽 구조의 물리적인 변화를 직접적이고 효율적으로 분석하는 방식으로 활용 가능하여 다양한 소재의 기능 규명과 제형의 검증에 사용될 수 있다.

• Natural Product Sciences
• /
• 제27권4호
• /
• pp.300-306
• /
• 2021

Chronic ultraviolet (UV) radiation causes photoaging, which represents skin damage, disrupts skin barrier function, and promotes wrinkle formation. We investigated that the polysaccharide extract of an edible basidiomycetous white jelly mushroom, Tremella fuciformis, (TF-Glucan^®) exhibited statistically photoprotective activity by inhibiting matrix metalloproteases (MMPs) and increasing collagen synthesis, and an anti-inflammatory activity by inhibiting nitric oxide and pro-inflammatory cytokines at the concentrations of less than 1000 ㎍/ml, which is not cytotoxic (p < 0.05). Additionally, TF-Glucan^® increased the expression of involucrin and filaggrin to prevent the disruption of UVB-induced barrier function (p < 0.05). TF-Glucan^® was assessed as a safe material by the human primary skin irritation (1, 3, 5%), human repeated insult patch test (no sensitization at 5%), 3T3 NRU phototoxicity assay (no phototoxicity, PIF < 2, MPE < 0.1), eye irritation test test by BCOP (no category, IVIS ≤ 3) and local lymph node assay (negative at 10, 25, 50%) for identifying potential skin sensitizing. These results suggest that TF-Glucan^® may be useful as an anti-photoaging ingredient for developing cosmeceuticals.

• Preventive Nutrition and Food Science
• /
• 제20권1호
• /
• pp.15-21
• /
• 2015

The skin plays a key role in protecting the body from the environment and from water loss. Cornified envelope (CE) and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) are considered as the primary regulators of skin hydration and barrier function. The CE prevents loss of water from the body and is formed by cross-linking of several proteins. Among these proteins, filaggrin is an important protein because NMF is produced by the degradation of filaggrin. Proteases, including matriptase and prostasin, stimulate the generation of filaggrin from profilaggrin and caspase-14 plays a role in the degradation of filaggrin. This study elucidated the effects of an ethanol extract of Boesenbergia pandurata (Roxb.) Schltr., known as fingerroot, and its active compound panduratin A on CE formation and filaggrin processing in HaCaT, human epidermal keratinocytes. B. pandurata extract (BPE) and panduratin A significantly stimulated not only CE formation but also the expression of CE proteins, such as loricrin, involucrin, and transglutaminase, which were associated with $PPAR{\alpha}$ expression. The mRNA and protein levels of filaggrin and filaggrin-related enzymes, such as matriptase, prostasin, and caspase-14 were also up-regulated by BPE and panduratin A treatment. These results suggest that BPE and panduratin A are potential nutraceuticals which can enhance skin hydration and barrier function based on their CE formation and filaggrin processing.

• 한국임상수의학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국임상수의학회 2007년도 추계국제학술대회 및 컨퍼런스
• /
• pp.560-560
• /
• 2007

• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 대한화장품학회 1999년도 IFSCC . ASCS 학술대회 발표 논문
• /
• pp.132-132
• /
• 1999

In the cosmetics field, facial skins have been classified into four types according to self estimation as well as physiological parameters. The aim of this study is to understand skin condition in the levels and composition of stratum corneum (SC) lipids, and to propose new classification for skin types. We assessed the relationship between the SC lipid composition and the self-estimated skin types or physiological parameters of the skin. Sensitive skin has been of great concern over the last decades, and it should be recognized as a skin type. Therefore, we also investigated the influence of the SC lipid composition on variations of sensitivity evaluated by the Stinging Test. Fifty-five healthy Japanese women aged 22-44 participated in this study. Skin biopsies were taken from facial skin using polyethylene sheet with cyanoacrylate. SC lipids were extracted and separated into individual lipid classes. The combined ceramides and cholesterol were quantified by HPTLC. Free fatty acid was quantified according to the ACS-ACOD method. Instrumental measurements were made at the site around the biopsy. In addition, the Stinging Test and a sensory evaluation questionnaire were administered to all subjects. The generally recognized O-D skin type classification is dependent on the consumer`s subjective assessment with respect to their skin troubles. The product of hydration state and skin surface lipid level showed a significant correlation with self-estimated skin types. The oily-dry skin type classified according to physiological parameters as well as SC lipid levels should be characterized as delicate skin with its barrier function deteriorating in the winter. Two groups of sensitive skin were established. One is the barrier function of the skin is deteriorated, and another is the sebaceous gland activity is in decline.

• 한국자원식물학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국자원식물학회 2023년도 임시총회 및 춘계학술대회
• /
• pp.40-40
• /
• 2023

Atopic dermatitis is a chronic inflammatory skin diseases caused by skin barrier dysfunction. Allium victoralis var. Platyphyllum (AVP) is a perennial plant used as vegetable and herbal medicine. The purpose of this study was to suggest that AVP is a new cosmetic material by examining the effects of AVP on the skin barrier and inflammatory response. A bibliometric network analysis was performed through keyword co-occurrence analysis by extracting author keyword from 69 articles retrieved from SCOPUS. We noted the anti-inflammatory activity shown by the results of clustering and mapping from network visualization analysis using VOSviewer software tool. HPLC-UV analysis showed that AVP contains 0.12 ± 0.02 mg/g of chlorogenic acid and 0.10 ± 0.01 mg/g of gallic acid. AVP at 100 ㎍/mL was shown to increase the mRNA levels of filaggrin and involucrin related to skin barrier function by 1.50-fold and 1.43-fold, respectively. In the scratch assay, AVP at concentrations of 100 ㎍/mL and 200 ㎍/mL significantly increased the cell migration rate and narrowed the scratch area. In addition, AVP suppressed the increase of inflammation-related factors COX-2 and NO and decreased the release of β-hexosaminidase. This study suggests that AVP can be developed as a functional cosmetic material for atopy management through skin barrier protection effects, anti-inflammatory and anti-itch effects.