• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제25권1호
• /
• pp.92-103
• /
• 2023

As the body shape change which occurs after middle age is the main factor affecting the fit of ready-to-wear clothes, this study was designed to classify and analyze the torso shapes of middle-aged men. This study sorted 3D body scans of 200 men aged 40-64 from the 8th Size Korea (2021) database and extracted their 47 measurement values using the Grasshopper algorithm for automatic extraction landmarks and measurements, developed by the previous research (Ryu & Song, 2022). Eight principal components (torso length, shoulder size, overall body size, abdomen prominence, back protrusion, neck inclination, upper body slope, and hip prominence) were identified and four torso shapes were classified. Shape 1 (28.5%) exhibited the shortest torso length, the narrowest shoulders, and the most protruding back. Shape 2 (21.0%) exhibited the skinniest body and the largest backward inclination of the upper body. Hence, the back appeared to be protruding, and the abdomen looked prominent. Shape 3 (25.5%) had the largest overall body size. Thus, the abdomen looked the least protruding, and it exhibited the flattest back. Shape 4 (25.0%) had the longest torso, widest shoulders, straightest neck, and the least protruding hips. This study suggested these three discriminant functions to identify a new person's torso type.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제6권3호
• /
• pp.169-183
• /
• 2004

This study attempts to understand women's underwear culture in the Later Chosun Dynasty, by investigating the kinds and constructions of them, which formed bulky and puffed silhouette of the lower half of the body. In the middle 17th century in Chosun, Confucianism settled down as fundamental idea of society, while whole country achieved considerable economic growth. As a result for upperclass women, female virtues was demanded more than any other period in Chosun. On the other hand, lower-class women including Kisaengs, had more freedom on their clothing behaviors. According to the literature on women's dress institutions and restrictions of the extravagance, the use of kinds of high-quality silk and false hair was criticized, compared to women's clothes in China. From this, one can see the luxury and affluence of women's clothes at that time, which also reflected in luxurious underclothes. Also, the movement of class, by economic development, led to changes in the costumes of middle-to-lower class women, relaxing restrictions on clothes. Underclothes included Bosomband(가슴띠; long sashes for bosom to wrap), Sokjucksam(속적삼), and Sokchogori(속저고리; Korean blouse, worn under the chogori) for upper garment, and Darisokkok(다리속곳; basic underwear like the panty), Soksokkot(속속곳; underwear paji to be wide of hem), Sokpaji(속바지;trouser front and back opening), Tansokkok(단속곳; large size underwear like Soksokkot), Noronpaji(너른바지; paji like the skirt or paji bulky than tansokkot,), Mujigi무지기; tiered skirt for underwear), and Daeshumchi'ma(대슘치마; Korean underskirt, shape hem as a pad into form) for lower clothes.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제28권7호
• /
• pp.983-994
• /
• 2004

The aim of this study is to provide fundamental data on the development of ready-to-wear clothes appropriate for the body types of elderly women. The study was conducted targeting 318 elderly women over 60 years of age whose fields of action were colleges for the elderly, sports centers, or business sites in Seoul and the neighboring districts. A total of 44 features in the upper body were used for the anthropometric measurement and analysis using anthropometry and photometry. The results of the study are as follows: 1. Somatotypes were classified into three types according to a cluster analysis using height and weight indices. Type 1 is the group with long and undersized upper body and straight body type since the face of the upper body is long relative to height and width, girth and depth are the smallest relative to weight, the breasts are somewhat fat, with a small extent of drooping and a straight back. Type 2 is the group that is considered fat relative to the body, has broad shoulders, drooping breasts with a wide space between them, and a back-bent upper body. Type 3 is the group that has a bent shape, the shortest upper body relative to height, and showing average obesity factors. 2. Indices of height and weight were used for factor analysis, cluster analysis, and discriminant analysis in order to classify upper body somatotype according to shape while excluding size factors of elderly women＇s upper body somatotype. The same method was used to compare and verify the result according to the absolute measurement and height index. Classification based on height and weight indices demonstrate that such somatotype classification minimizes the personal equation of body shape and it induces better classification based on shape as the results showed the highest cumulative sum of square(CUSUM) at 78.38% while six factors showed the smallest result and the hit rate for the classified three groups showed the highest result at 95.30%.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제39권6호
• /
• pp.826-837
• /
• 2015

This study analyzes the shapes of the adjustment of a Napoleon Collar which combines a stand collar with an upper collar. It established experimental conditions for fixing the conditions of Napoleon Collar components (lapel width, stand collar size and upper collar size) as well as varied the shape of the neckline, the length of the curve of a stand collar and the size of the drawing space at the center back. It produced 22 test clothes of muslin, which were dressed on dress form No. 8. The results indicate that: 1. Neckline shape determines the amount of stand and fall. Less curved neckline stands higher against the neck and a more curved neckline is laid lower onto the body. 2. A shorter curve length of a stand collar allows a longer roll line to fall farther away from the neck with more space between the neck and collar. However, the longer the depth of curve of a stand collar creates a shorter roll line that stands high against neck and closer to neck without any space between the neck and collar with a collar line matching the neck of the dress form. 3. The smaller the drawing space at the center back creates a shorter the style line of the upper collar. However, a narrower back width of the collar creates a bigger drawing space at the center back with a longer the style line and a more naturally placed back width of the collar. 4. A Napoleon Collar creates a longer depth of curve for a stand collar and a smaller drawing space at the center back that is tightly and stably stuck to the neck.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제22권5호
• /
• pp.654-663
• /
• 1998

The purpose of this study is to improve the classic jacket pattern for Korean young men whose chest circumference is 91~94cm, status is 170~175 cm, and drop value between chest and waist circumference is 15. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. Through the comparative investigation on the conventional classic jacket patterns of Hyung-sook Lee's, 문화's in Japan, and SMA's and the clothing experiment, the characteristics of every three patterns were found. 2. According to correct the unsuitable point in Hyung-sook Lee's pattern which was found more suitable than other two patterns and to refer to the product size of the ready-made classic jackets for men, the new suitable classic jacket pattern was achieved. 3. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort and one to one comparison was applied to evaluate the new classic jacket pattern by comparing with the Hyung-sook Lee' s jacket pattern. From the result of the sensory evaluation and one to one comparison, it was found that the new classic jacket pattern was more suitable for appearance and comfort. 4. From the result of this study, the suitable surplus of men's classic jacket at present is about 23~24cm on the chest circumference, 31~32 cm on the waist circumference, 14~15 cm on the hip circumference, 13~14 cm on the upper arm circumference, and 14 cm on the wrist circumference and the ease is about 3.5 cm on the armhole circumference. This size is not the absolute size but it helps to make the surplus in any other clothes for Korean young men.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제24권2호
• /
• pp.164-172
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the most appropriate arm-hole depth in 9 positions of arm movements. This subjects were four females, college students aged 18 to 23 years old. The clothing size 55 was used for this study. In the experiments for the investigation of the arm-hole depth, the evaluations were performed for aesthetic view, clothing adaptability to arm movements, and quantity of materials pulled up by 9 movements of arm. The results of this study were as follows: 1) In the aesthetic evaluation, there were no significant differences in arm-hole depths. 2) In the evaluation of clothing adaptability to arm movements, the experiment clothes, in which-arm-hole depths were raised, had more positive evaluations especially with the increasing the angle of arm movements. 3) In the evaluation of clothing adaptability to each body areas, there were no significant differences in all body areas except upper arm circumference blade. 4) In the evaluation of quantity of materials pulled up by arm movements, the clothes of B/4-2 arm-hole depth had the least amount pulled up by arm movements, which showed the highest adaptability to arm movement.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제22권5호
• /
• pp.113-124
• /
• 2018

This study is to find ways to use fast-fashion wedding dresses continuously which usually have worn three or four times and just wasted, which is an current interesting issue over the society. Among clothing from the 19th Century, three styles of Empire, and Crinoline were analyzed from their underwear styles to outwear styles through library and museums and are made for rental service. Based on 8-year-old girls' physical dimensions, openings and closing methods of each size were applied to develop and make rental dress designs. It will be a good opportunity to study history and develop creativity if children can try different styles of dresses from different cultures and times and also experience difference wearing ways as they also have such desire. Underwears were designed to be worn by adjusting cloth rings, rubber bands, or hook and eye to fit different dimensions. The final products are as follows. First, empire dress doesn't need underwear to wear. Depending on the purpose of the rental dress, the back side of upper clothes have lace up by using cloth rings like empire style. Skirt was cut to use hem lace suitably from wasted dress. Second, Crinoline dress is usually configured of Crinoline, Petticoat, Two Piece on Drawers, Chemise, and Corset. It was designed by flat front, bigger sides and backs by Crinoline and Petticoat.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제18권2호
• /
• pp.15-33
• /
• 2016

Women in their 30s and 40s, who are at the center of "ageless" and "down-aging" consumer trends, are likely to encounter problems with fitting and size conformity when they wear casual clothes targeting women in their 20s. Hence, differences in upper body sizes and body types between women in their 20s and women in their 30s and 40s were analyzed. The data for this study was from the 6th Size Korea survey of body measurements of 1,675 female adults in their 20s-40s. SPSS 21.0 for Windows was used for analysis of the collected data. To examine differences in average upper body size between women in their 20s and women in their 30s and 40s, descriptive statistics and independent sample t-tests were conducted. Factor and cluster analyses were used to classify body types by age groups. Comparing direct measurement items showed that women in their 20s tend to have higher average values for most height-related items-including body height-and lower average values for circumference, thickness, and width than women in their 30s and 40s. Factors in determining the upper body shapes of women in their 20s to 40s were narrowed to five; through a cluster analysis, upper body shapes of women were classified into three body types as follows. Type 1 women are shorter and thinner with small frames; Type 2 women have the highest vertical values for their upper bodies and average values for obesity-related categories of circumference, thickness, and width. Type 3 women are the shortest and has the highest body mass index (BMI), verifiable as obese. By analyzing differences in body type distribution according to age groups, it was found that more than 90% of women in their 20s belong to Types 1 and 2. On the other hand, most women in their 30s and 40s are identified as Type 3.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제24권2호
• /
• pp.73-84
• /
• 2022

Based on the method of marking the size of children's wear suggested by Korean Agency for Technology and Standards, this study classified the heights of school-aged girls by 10cm. The purpose of this study is to provide foundational material by analyzing and comparing the characteristics of torso types. The author analyzed the height section of 130 to 139.9cm, which the majority of subjects fell into, and concerning the method of research, this study statistically analyzed body sizes and calculated items related to 162 persons' torso types out of the 6th Korean Body Size Data. According to the results, eight factors were extracted, and the total explanatory variate of all the factors was found to be 81.93%. According to the results of cluster analysis with it as an independent variable, three types were drawn. Type 1 (41.4%) was found to be the thickest in the torso and round and severely curved in the sectional form of the circumference item. RegardingType 2 (25.9%), the horizontal size of the torso is similar to that of Type 1: the upper body is long, and the sectional form of the circumference item is oval-shaped. Regarding Type 3 (32.7%), mean values are similar to those of Type 2 overall: the upper body is short, and the body is the most upright. In conclusion, according to the results of analyzing torso types, the types and average values indicate significant differences in the height section of 130~139.9cm. This implies that when making ready-made clothes, it is necessary to come up with the sizes of more detailed items in relation with height. It is expected that the findings of this study will be utilized as basic data when children's wear companies develop prototypes and use grading variances according to the variations of size.

• 복식
• /
• 제52권2호
• /
• pp.59-70
• /
• 2002

For the purpose of providing basic data for the development of size specifications for middle-aged women in Busan, one dimensional measurements were made with the subjects. ranging 45 to 59 in age. The following are the conclusions : 1) According to ages, the middle and elder groups of the middle-aged women shared similar body types, having shorter height, more lowered bust. and increased upper-body depth and girth factors, compared with the earlier middle-aged women group. But the thigh girth of the elder middle-aged group (age: 55∼59) was the lowest, maybe owing to the aged lower-body muscles. 2) In the comparison with national averages. armhole girth, elbow girth, wrist girth. back waist length, side neck point-B.P.-waist line, and sleeve length showed great differences. This is problematic in that the national size standards fail to reflect each legion\`s peculiar body type characteristics. 3) Even though body types were classified according to drop value criteria suggested by KS specifications, 23.05% did not belong to the criteria. They were thus classified as A, N, and H body types, following the distribution of the present experiment. 4) In consideration of the economy factor of the production and sales of the clothes industry, the combinations of height and chest garth for the middle-aged Busan women were as follows: 155cm-85cm (Body Type A) 150cm-88cm (Body Type N), and 155cm-94cm (Body Type H).