• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.30-38
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• 2009

In recent years, there's been strong demand for coastal structures that have a permeability that serves water affinity and disaster prevention from wave attack. The aim of this study is to examine the wave transformation, including wave run-up that propagates over the coastal structures with a steep slope. A numerical model based on the nonlinear shallow water equation, together with the unsteady nonlinear Darcy law for fluid motion in permeable underlayer and laboratory measurements was carried out in terms of the free surface elevations and fluid particle velocities for the cases of regular and irregular waves over 1:5 impermeable and permeable slopes. The numerical results were used to evaluate the application and limitations of the PBREAK numerical model. The numerical model could predict the cross-shore variation of the wave profile reasonably, but showed less accurate results in the breaking zone that the mass and momentum influx is exchanged the most. Except near the wave crest, the computed depth averaged velocities could represent the measured profile below the trough level fairly well.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 1995

A numerical shallow water wave deformation model to solve unsteady mild slope equation was develope(1. The energy equation of Izumiya and Horikawa(1984) for wave breaking and bottom friction was incorporated to estimate more realistically energy damping resulted from wave breaking and reflection. A numerical scheme for variable grid spacings was also introduced to complement the defect of unsteady mild slope equation limiting the grid spacings. This model was tested and compared with the existing analytic solutions and physical modelings, and applied to a practical situation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.108-120
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• 1992

An ADI model for linearized shallow water equation is modified using the method of factorization. In order to show its validity. the computational results are compared both with the analytical solution and with those from existing models, for a rectangualr domain with constant and varying amplitudes at the open boundary. It is shown the accuracy of numerical solutions depends on the size of time step. depth and bottom friction. The modified ADI model is shown to be superior to the existing models such as Leendertse (1971). Butler (1980) and Sheng (1983).

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.69-74
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• 2008

This study performed a numerical simulation to predict the development of ship waves and their propagation in the shallow water region of Gunzang New Port and to examine the stability of taut line mooring at the sea wall using the design criteria. In order to predict the propagation of ship waves based on the speeds of various ships under complicated and shallow water depths, a computer model was constructed based on the Boussinesque equation with a fixed coordinate system. Additionally, an investigation if the stability was made by applying MOSES under the environmental loadings estimated by OCIMF.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 2005

For the simulation of tsunami propagation an active dispersion-correction two-dimensional finite element model has been developed based on a shallow-water wave equation. This model employs an arbitrary triangular mesh and an explicit time integration scheme. However, the physical dispersion effects as included in the Boussinesq equations can be taken into account in the computation. The validity of the dispersion-correction scheme developed in this study is verified through the comparison of numerical solutions calculated using the new scheme with analytical ones considering dispersion effect of waves. As a result, the present model is shown to be considerably accurate.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.350-356
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• 1993

We carry out a numerical calculation to understand the nonlinear wave deformation around breakwaters using the Boussinesq equation, which is weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive shallow water equation. A numerical method based on a finite element scheme and fourth order Runge-Kutta algorithm is employed to investigate the diffraction of incident waves by the breakwater. As a computational model, two-dimensional wave flume is treated. The breakwaters is perpendicular to the side wall of a channel. From the numerical results, the wave deformations according to the change of the length and the thickness of breakwaters are investigated. We also investigate the effect of the nonlinearity by comparing the results with the linear solutions.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.98-111
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• 1993

Two-dimensional nonlinear free-surface wave problems are analyzed with consideration of viscosity. Navier-Stokes equation and continuity equation are solved by the application of Finite Analytic Method, and MAC scheme is used far the treatment of free surface. Surface tension effect is also considered and laminar flow is assumed. The free-surface waves in shallow water, the flows around a vortex-pair with free surface and the wave ahead of a rectangular body are simulated to test the present numerical scheme. In the shallow water problem, viscous effect due to the friction on the bottom is observed. In the second problem, the approach of a vortex-pair to the free surface is simulated to examine the interaction of vortex-pair with the free surface. In the third problem, the wave ahead of a semi-infinite floating body is simulated.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2003.08a
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• pp.240-244
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• 2003

파랑의 변형 가운데 천수, 굴절, 회절, 반사를 예측하는 수학적 모형은 크게 두 가지 유형으로 나눌 수 있는데, 첫 번째로 파형경사인 ha(k：파수. $\alpha$：진폭)를 비선형의 매개변수로 하는 Stokes 파랑식이 있고, 두 번째로 상대파고인 $\alpha$/h를 비선형의 매개변수로 하고 상대수심인 kh를 분산성의 매개변수로 하는 천수방정식(Shallow water equation)이 있다. 파랑의 변형 가운데 천수, 굴절만을 예측하고 회절, 반사를 예측하지 못하는 수학적 모형으로는 에너지 이송방정식이 있다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.134-142
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• 1990

A wide-angle approximation in the parabolic equation method is presented to calculate wave transformation in the shallow water. The parabolic approximation to the mild-slope equation is obtain-ed by the use of a splitting matrix, which leads to a generalized equation in form. A numerical model based on a finite difference scheme is presented and computational results are provided to test the model against the laboratory measurements of circular and elliptical shoals. The numerical results are in good agreement with most of experimental data. Therefore it can be concluded that the model shows greater capability to reproduce the characteristics of waves in the refractive focus.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.232-239
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• 1993

In this paper the effect of wave motion acting on the natural folds of dispersed material in the coastal zone is studied. After integrating the usual diffusion equation with respect to the depth using shallow-water approximation simpler equation for integrated concentration was obtained. which holds for long waves of arbitrary amplitude and far any arbitrary barotropic flows. Different situations of long wave action on impurity concentration in the frame of this equation are considered.