• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.7-15
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• 2003

A Digital Wave Tank simulation technique, based on a finite-difference method and a modified marker-and-cell (MAC) algorithm, is applied in order to investigate the characteristics of nonlinear Tsunami propagations and their interactions with a 2D sloping beach, Ohkushiri Island, and to predict maximum wove run-up around the island. The Navier-Stokes (NS) and continuity equation are governed in the computational domain, and the boundary values are updated at each time step, by a finite-difference time-marching scheme in the frame of the rectangular coordinate system. The fully nonlinear, kinematic, free-surface condition is satisfied by the modified marker-density function technique. The near shore Tsunami is assumed to be a solitary wave, and is generated from the numerical wave-maker in the developed Digital Wave Tank. The simulation results are compared with the experiments and other numerical methods, based on the shallow-water wave theory.

• 한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국해양공학회 2003년도 춘계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.231-239
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• 2003

A Digital Wave Tank simulation technique based on a finite-difference method and a modified marker-and-cell (MAC) algorithm is applied to investigate the characteristics of nonlinear Tsunami propagations and their interactions with a 2D sloping beach and Ohkushiri island, and to predict maximum wave run-up around the island. The Navier-Stokes (NS) and continuity equation are governed in the computational domain and the boundary values updated at each time step by a finite-difference time-marching scheme in the frame of rectangular coordinate system. The fully nonlinear kinematic free-surface condition is satisfied by the modified marker-density function technique. The Nearshore Tsunami is assumed to be a solitary wave and generated from the numerical wavemaker in the developed Digital Wave Tank. The simulation results are compared with the experiments and other numerical methods based on the shallow-water wave theory.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제34권6호
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• pp.177-187
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• 2022

본 연구는 2020년 해양수산부에서 제시한 개정된 천해설계파 추산방법인 바람장을 이용하여 부산항 신항을 대상으로 태풍 내습 시 설계파를 추산하고 파랑 관측자료와의 검증을 통해서 신뢰할 수 있는 천해설계파 산출방법을 제안하였다. 부산항 신항에 영향을 미친 태풍에 대해서 현업에서 일반적으로 많이 사용하고 있는 태풍 바람장과 SWAN 수치모델을 이용하여 태풍파를 추산한 결과 태풍 KONG-REY(1825), MAYSAK(2009)을 제외하고 재현성이 불량한 것으로 나타났다. 특히 부산항 신항에 가장 크게 영향을 미쳤던 태풍 MAEMI(0314)의 경우 최대유의 파고가 파랑 관측치에 비해서 약 35.0% 작게 추산되었다. 이에 바람장을 보정한 방법과 Boussinesq 방정식 수치모델을 이용하는 방법을 각각 적용하여 태풍파 재현성 개선방안을 검토하였다. 검토결과 바람장을 보정한 경우는 바람장 보정전과 동일하게 재현성이 떨어지는 것으로 나타났으나, 바람장 자료와 SWAN 모델 실험결과 그리고 Bou ssinesq 수치모델을 연계하는 방법으로 태풍 MAEMI(0314) 내습 시 태풍파를 추산한 결과 파랑 관측치와 최대유의파고가 유사하게 나타나 재현성이 양호한 것으로 검토되었다.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.34-40
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• 2002

A numerical model has been developed for the permeable coastal structures to simulate hydraulic characteristics on the permeable slopes, which interact with internal four field the structures. The model includes hydraulics in the porous medium. Numerical model was calibrated using hydraulic model experiments performed in 2-D wave flume in the Institute of Ocean Hydraulics in PKNU. Better aggrements were obtained with the model which employed inertia resistance term than with the conventional model, PBREAK.

• 한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국해양공학회 2001년도 춘계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.172-179
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• 2001

A numelical model has been developed for the permeable coastal structures to simulate hydraulic characteristics on the permeable slopes, which interact with internal flow field of the structures. The model includes hydraulics in the porous medium. Numerical model was calibrated using hydraulic model experiments performed in 2-D wave flume in the Institute of Orean Hydraulics in PKNU. Good agreement were obtained with the model which employed inertia resistance term than with the conventional model, PBREAK.

• 한국항해항만학회지
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• 제27권5호
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• pp.527-537
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• 2003

선박의 항행에 의해 발생되는 항주파의 특성은 선박의 속도와 수심 조건에 따라 크게 달라진다. 연안 항로에서 발생된 항주파는 주변 해안으로 전파됨에 따라 항만 내의 정온 수역을 교란하여 정박 중인 소형선박, 수영객 등에 돌발적이고도 심각한 위험을 가져다 줄뿐만 아니가 해안의 침식, 호안의 결괴 등의 피해를 주기도 한다. 지금까지 항주파에 관한 연구의 관심사는 일정 수심 조건에 대해 조파저항이나 조선에 미치는 영향을 분석하는 등 주로 조선공학도의 관점에서 검토가 대상이 되어 왔으며, 가변 수심을 가진 실제 해역에 있어서의 항주파 발생과 전파에 기인한 주변 해역의 영향은 그다지 검토되지 못하였다. 최근 고속선 등의 발달로 인해 천해역에서의 항주파로 인한 인근 해역의 피해가 더욱 우려되고 있는 추세이다. 따라서 실제 수역에서의 항주파의 발달과 그 전파과정은 조사할 필요가 있는 것이다. 본 연구에서는 연안해역의 얕고 복잡한 수로와 다양한 선속 조건에 대한 항주파의 발생 및 전파를 예측하기 위하여 고정 좌표계에서 Boussinesq 방정식을 토대로 항주파 수치예측 모형을 구축하였다. 제안된 모형은 수리모형실험 결과와의 비교를 통하여 검증하였으며, 또한 실제 수로를 토대로 한 가변 수심역에 개발된 모형을 적용하여 수신 변화 고려의 중요성을 확인하였다.

• 한국해양학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.99-107
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• 1981

A partial differential equation for the adjusted sea level, obtained from the long wave equations in shallow water, is reduced to a simpler one by the use of physically reasonable approximations based on the observations. The similar equation for the stream function indicates that shelf waves are generated by the longshore wind stress. This indication is in good agreement with the high correlation between the adjusted sea levels and the longshore wind stress. From the dispersion relationship and the boundary conditions, there exist a countable infinite number of modes which satisfy a first-order wave equations. The adjusted sea level for a given wind stress can easily be calculated by utilizing the convolution and the Fourier transformation. Some detailed solutions are presented here for sinusoidal and exponential wind stress.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.281-289
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• 1994

Boussinesq 식과는 달리 심해로부터 천해까지 파랑의 전영역에 적용 가능한 비선형 규칙/불규칙 파랑의 예측모델의 지배방정식이 제시되었다. 근본은 쌍곡선형 완경사방정식(Copeland, 1985)에 근거를 두고 있다. 제시된 식은 심해로부터 천해까지 선형 파랑전파의 분산 관계를 엄밀히 만족시켜주며 식을 전개하였을 때 Boussinesq 식의 여러 형태와 동일성을 유지하고 있음을 입증할 수 있었다. 또한 선형성을 유지하는 대표유속의 자유수면아래 위치를 산정할 수 있는 관계식을 제시하였다.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• 제29권1호
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• pp.9-31
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• 2007

Most seismic sea waves in the East Sea originate from earthquakes occurring near the Japanese west coast. While the waves propagate in the East Sea, they are deformed by refraction, diffraction and scattering. Though the Boussinesq equation is most applicable for such wave phenomena, it was not used in numerical modelling of seismic sea waves in the East Sea. To examine characteristics of seismic sea waves in the East Sea, numerical models based on the Boussinesq equation are established and used to simulate recent tsunamis. By considering Ursell parameter and Kajiura parameter, it is proved that Boussinesq equation is a proper equation for seismic sea waves in the East Sea. Two models based on the Boussinesq equation and linear wave equation are executed with the same initial conditions and grid size ($1min{\times}1min$), and the results are compared in various respects. The Boussinesq equation model produced better results than the linear model in respect to wave propagation and concentration of wave energy. It is also certified that the Boussinesq equation model can be used for operational purpose if it is optimized. Another Boussinesq equation model whose grid size is $40sec{\times}30sec$ is set up to simulate the 1983 and 1993 tsunamis. As the result of simulation, new propagation charts of 2 seismic sea waves focused on the Korean east coast are proposed. Even though the 1983 and 1993 tsunamis started at different areas, the propagation paths near the Korean east coast are similar and they can be distinguished into 4 paths. Among these, total energy and propagating time of the waves passing over North Korea Plateau(NKP) and South Korea Plateau(SKP) determine wave height at the Korean east coast. In case of the 1993 tsunami, the wave passing over NKP has more energy than the wave over SKP. In case of the 1983 tsunami, the huge energy of the wave passing over SKP brought about great maximum wave heights at Mukho and Imwon. The Boussinesq equation model established in this study is more useful for simulation of seismic sea waves near the Korean east coast than it is the Japanese coast. To improve understanding of seismic sea waves in shallow water, a coastal area model based on the Boussinesq equation is also required.

• Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.50-61
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• 2001

In this paper, nonlinear interactions between water waves and a horizontally submerged circular cylinder are numerically simulated. In this case, the nonlinear interactions between them generated a wave breaking phenomenon. The wave breaking phenomenon plays an important role in the wave farce. Negative drifting forces are raised at shallow submerged cylinders under waves because of the wave breaking phenomenon. For the numerical simulation, a finite difference method based on the unsteady incompressible Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation is adopted in the rectangular grid system. The free surface is simulated with a computational simulation method of two-layer flow by using marker density. The results are compared with some existing computational and experimental results.