• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.14-20
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• 1991

Accurate estimation of irregular wave transformation when the waves propagate from deep water to shallow water region is very important for the design of coastal structures and establishing beach erosion control. In this study. the transformation of directional spectrum is tested numerically using a conservation equation for energy flux and. based upon the joint distribution of wave height. period and wave direction. shoaling effects are predicted in the shallow water region. The applicability of the proposed procedure is verified through comparison with field observation data.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.67-75
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• 1986

This paper introduces the nonlinear Stream Function Wave Theory for design waves efficiently to compute the wave energy and energy transport quantities and to analyze the effects of nonlinearities on them. The Stream Function Wave Theory was developed by Dean for case of the observed waves with assymmetric wave profiles and of the design waves with symmetric theoretical wave profiles. Dalrymple later improved the computational procedure by adding two Lagrangian constraints so that more efficient convergence of the iterative numerical method to a specified wave height and to a zero mean free surface displacement resulted. And the Stream Function coefficients are computed numerically by the improved Marquardt algorithm developed for this study. As the result of this study the effects of nonlinearities on the wave quantities of the average potential energy density, the average kinetic energy density result in overestimation by linear wave theory compared to the Stream Function Wave Theory and increase monotonically with decreasing $L^*/L_O$ and with increasing $H/H_B$. The effects of nonlinearities on the group velocity and the wavelength quantities result in underestimation by linear wave theory and increase monotonically with increasing $H/H_B$. Finally the effect of nonlinearity on the average total energy flux results in overestimation for shallow water waves and underestimation for deep water waves by linear wave theory.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.527-537
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• 2003

The characteristics of ship induced waves caused by navigation become widely different from both ship's speed and water depth condition. The ship induced waves specially generated in coastwise routes frequently give rise to call unforeseen danger for swimmers and small boats as well as shoreline erosion or sea wall destruction in coastal zones. The main concern of ship induced wave study until now is either how to reduce ship resistance or how to manoeuvre the ship safely under a constant water depth in the view point of shipbuilding engineers. Moreover, due to the trends for appearance of the high speed ships at the shallow coastal water, we are confronted with the danger of damages from those ship induced waves. Therefore, it is necessary to examine the development of ship induced waves and the influence of their deformation effects according to its propagation ray. In present study, in order to predict the development of the ship induced waves and their propagation under the conditions of complicate and variable shallow water depth with varying ship's speed, we constructed a computer model using Boussinesq equation with a fixed coordinate system and verified the model results by comparison with experimental results. Additionally, the model was applied under the variable water depth based on actual passage and we then confirmed the importance of the variable water depth consideration.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.79-90
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• 2009

This paper presents the development of dynamically combined Typhoon generated surge-tide-wave numerical model which is applicable from deep to shallow water. The dynamically coupled model consists of hydrodynamic module and wind wave module. The hydrodynamic module is modified from POM and wind wave module is modified from WAM to be applicable from deep to shallow water. Hydrodynamic module computes tidal currents, sea surface elevations and storm surges and provide these information to wind wave module. Wind wave mudule computes wind waves and provides computed information such as radiation stress, sea surface roughness and shear stress due to winds. The newly developed model was applied to compute the surge, tide and wave fields by typhoon Maemi. Verification of model performance was made by comparison of measured waves and tide data with simulated results.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.10-15
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• 2012

Wave characteristics in the presence of energy damping are investigated using the linear shallow water equations. To get the phase and energy velocities, geometric optics approach is used and then these values are validated through numerical experiments. Energy damping affects wave height, phase and energy velocities which result in wave transformation. When the complex wavenumber is used by the Eulerian approach, it is found that the phase velocity decreases as the damping increases while the energy velocity increases showing higher values than the phase velocity. When the complex angular frequency is used by the Lagrangian approach, the energy-damping wave group is found to propagate in the energy velocity. The energy velocity is found to affect shoaling and refraction coefficient which is verified through numerical experiments for waves on a plane slope.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.161-167
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• 2022

Ocean waves passing through the underwater bar at a shallow depth experience a shoaling effect caused by decreasing water depth, a nonlinear interaction therein owing to steepening wave slope, and a wave dispersion effect as the water depth increases again. Because this problem includes many complicated phenomena, it is used as a good example of validating a theoretical development or a CFD method for ocean wave applications. Validation is performed mainly for regular waves by comparing the wave elevation patterns in the time domain with the experimental results. In this study, the spectral evolution of wave spectrum is investigated in the frequency domain when a CFD method such as OpenFOAM is applied for this problem. In particular, the effects of initial phase conditions as well as the nonlinear interaction among harmonic waves are studied.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.360-371
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• 2006

In order to calculate waves propagating into the shallow water region, a generalized parabolic approximate model is presented. The model is derived from the modified mild slope equation and includes all the existing parabolic models presented in the paper. Numerical results are presented in comparison to laboratory data of Berkhoff et al.(1982). The existing parabolic model shows almost same accuracy against the modified parabolic model and both results of models stand in closer agreement to the laboratory data. Therefore the existing parabolic model based on mild slope equation is a useful tool to compute shallow water waves which turns out to be more fast and stable in computational aspect.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2004.11a
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• pp.149-153
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• 2004

본 연구에서는 태풍의 천애역 내습시 태풍의 풍역이동과 위험반경내의 풍향 풍속 변화를 해안지형의 특성에 따라 파랑이 충분히 발달할 수 있는 해역을 대상으로 발생가능한 풍향별 취송거리 및 관측된 풍향 풍속으로 천해설계파를 산정하기 위한 한가지 수치해석기법을 소개한다. 이를 통해 구조물 전면에서의 파고계산을 위해서는 구역을 결정할 때 해역의 개방 정도 및 폐쇄성과 태풍중심 이동경로가 천해설계파 산정시 중요함을 강조 할 수 있다. 실시간 해석기법에 대해서 부가적인 재해석 절차가 필요한 상황이지만 본 연구의 해석기법은 연안 해안지역의 천해설계파를 추정함에 있어 태풍의 천해역 통과시 풍역의 변화특성과 이를 고려한 파랑의 불획 정성을 극복하고 보완 할 수 있는 천해설계파 산정을 위한 기초적 연구로서 활용될 수 있을 것이라 판단된다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.51-57
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• 1990

Based on second-order Stokes wave and parabolic approximation, a refraction-diffraction model for linear and nonlinear waves is developed. With the assumption that the water depth is slowly varying, the model equation describes the forward scattered wavefield. The parabolic approximation equations account for the combined effects of refraction and diffraction, while the influences of bottom friction, current and wind have been neglected. The model is tested against laboratory experiments for the case of submerged circular shoal, when both refraction and diffraction are equally significant. Based on Boussinesq equations, the parabolic approximation eq. is applied to the propagation of shallow water waves. In the case without currents, the forward diffraction of Cnoidal waves by a straight breakwater is studied numerically. The formation of stem waves along the breakwater and the relation between the stem waves and the incident wave characteristics are discussed. Numerical experiments are carried out using different bottom slopes and different angles of incidence.

• Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.50-61
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• 2001

In this paper, nonlinear interactions between water waves and a horizontally submerged circular cylinder are numerically simulated. In this case, the nonlinear interactions between them generated a wave breaking phenomenon. The wave breaking phenomenon plays an important role in the wave farce. Negative drifting forces are raised at shallow submerged cylinders under waves because of the wave breaking phenomenon. For the numerical simulation, a finite difference method based on the unsteady incompressible Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation is adopted in the rectangular grid system. The free surface is simulated with a computational simulation method of two-layer flow by using marker density. The results are compared with some existing computational and experimental results.