• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.12-19
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• 2014

Tsunamis are ocean waves generated by movements of the Earth's crust. Several geophysical events can lead to this kind of catastrophe: earthquakes, landslides, volcanic eruptions, and other mechanisms such as underwater explosions. Most of the damage associated with tsunamis are related to their run-up onto the shoreline. Therefore, effectively predicting the run-up process is an important aspect of any seismic sea wave mitigation effort. In this paper, a numerical simulation of the behaviors of a floating body near a quaywall during a tsunami is conducted by using a particle method. First, a solitary wave traveling over shallow water with a slope is numerically simulated, and the results are compared with experiments and other numerical results. Then, the behaviors of floating bodies with different drafts are investigated numerically.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.95-106
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• 1999

A numerical model is represented to calculate the wave fields such as the reflected waves, the transmitted waves and the depth-averaged velocities over submerged breakwaters for the normally incident wave trains of nonlinear mono-chromatic wave and solitary wave. The finite amplitude shallow water equations with the effects of bottom friction are solved numerically in time domain using an explicit dissipative Lax-Wendroff finite difference method. The numerical model is verified by comparisons with the other numerical results and the measured data. It is found that the submerged breakwater may be more useful for protecting the energies of monochromatic waves rather than solitary waves. Finally, the armor stability on submerged breakwater is indirectly analyzed using the hydrodynamic characteristics of flow fields.

• Journal of the Korean Geotechnical Society
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.27-44
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• 2015

An analytical solution of dynamic responses for seabed in finite and infinite thicknesses including shallow has been developed under flow and partial standing wave with arbitrary reflection ration coexisting field at a constant water depth condition. In the analytical solution, a field was simply transited to a coexisting field of progressive wave and flow when reflection ratio was 0 and to a coexisting field of fully standing wave and flow when reflection ratio was 1. Based on the Biot's consolidation theory, the seabed was assumed as a porous elastic media with the assumptions that pore fluid is compressible and Darcy law governs the flow. The developed analytical solution was compared with the existing results and was verified. Using the analytical solution the deformation, pore pressure, effective and shear stresses were examined under various given values of reflection ratio, flow velocity, incident wave's period and seabed thickness. From this study, it was confirmed that the dynamic response of seabed was quite different depending on consideration of flow, which causes changing period and length of incident and reflection waves. It was also confirmed that dynamic response significantly depends on the magnitude of reflection ratio.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2004.11a
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• pp.149-153
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• 2004

본 연구에서는 태풍의 천애역 내습시 태풍의 풍역이동과 위험반경내의 풍향 풍속 변화를 해안지형의 특성에 따라 파랑이 충분히 발달할 수 있는 해역을 대상으로 발생가능한 풍향별 취송거리 및 관측된 풍향 풍속으로 천해설계파를 산정하기 위한 한가지 수치해석기법을 소개한다. 이를 통해 구조물 전면에서의 파고계산을 위해서는 구역을 결정할 때 해역의 개방 정도 및 폐쇄성과 태풍중심 이동경로가 천해설계파 산정시 중요함을 강조 할 수 있다. 실시간 해석기법에 대해서 부가적인 재해석 절차가 필요한 상황이지만 본 연구의 해석기법은 연안 해안지역의 천해설계파를 추정함에 있어 태풍의 천해역 통과시 풍역의 변화특성과 이를 고려한 파랑의 불획 정성을 극복하고 보완 할 수 있는 천해설계파 산정을 위한 기초적 연구로서 활용될 수 있을 것이라 판단된다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.137-151
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• 1991

The motion of two-dimensional floating breakwaters with rectangular clots-section which are moored tautly in shallow water has been analyzed using a velocity potential matching method in which the fluid region is devided into sub-regions and then unknown coefficients of velocity potentials are determined from the continuity condition of mass and momentum flux of fluid at imaginary boundaries between sub-regions. The method originally suggested by Ijima et al.(1972) for the motion of submerged body has been modified to analyze the motion of floating body. The total fluid region has been divided into three sub-regions : the incident wave region, the transmitted wave region and the region below the floating breakwater. The restoring forces induced by mooring lines which were ignored by Ijima et al.(1972) have been modeled as linear springs with the initial tension effects. This method has been verified through the comparions with results from hydraulic expriments. Applications to various conditions of floating breakwater have been performed.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.453-466
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• 2008

In order to examine the generation mechanism of long ocean waves along the west coast of Korea and to understand the amplification process of the long ocean waves, sea level, atmospheric pressure and wind data observed every minute from 2007 March 29 to 2007 April 1 were analyzed and onedimensional numerical ocean model experiments were performed. An atmospheric pressure jump propagated southeastward from Backryungdo to Yeonggwang along the west coast of Korea with speed of $13{\sim}27\;m/s$ between 2007 March 30 23:00 and 2007 April 1 1:30. Average magnitude of pressure jump was 4.2 hPa. As a moving atmospheric jump propagated from north to south along the coast, long ocean waves were generated and the sea level abnormally rose or fell at Anheung, Kunsan, Wido and Yeonggwang. Average amplitude of sea level rise (or fall) was about 113.6 cm. In a one-dimensional numerical ocean model, nonlinear shallow water equations were numerically integrated and a moving atmospheric pressure jump with traveling speed of 24 m/s was used as an external force. While the atmospheric pressure jump travels over 60 m depth ocean, a long ocean wave is generated. Because the propagation speed of the atmospheric jump is almost equal to that of the long ocean wave, Proudman resonance occurs and the long ocean wave amplifies. As the atmospheric pressure jump moves into the coastal area shallower than 60 m, the speed of the long ocean wave decreases and Proudman resonance effect decreases. However, the amplitude of the long ocean wave increases and wave length becomes shorter because of shoaling effect. When the long ocean wave hits the land boundary, amplitude of the long ocean wave drastically amplifies due to reflection. Data analysis and numerical experiments suggest that the southeastward propagation of an atmospheric pressure jump over the shallow ocean, which is a necessary condition for Proudaman resonance, generated the long ocean waves along the west coast of Korea on 2007 March 31 and the ocean waves amplified due to shoaling effect in the coastal area and reflection at the shore.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.428-436
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• 1991

Double shelf topography allows the existence of two sets of waves propagating in opposite directons. In the case that two shelves are apart sufficiently enough, the solutions show two independent sets of waves which recover the single shelf waves. However, if the distance between two shelves is less than the Rossby deformation radius, the waves become dependent on the geometry of both shelves. Even over a double shelf topography, shelf waves propagate with the shallow water to the right in the Northern Hemisphere. The group velocity of shelf wave has the same direction as phase velocity in the long wave case, but the opposite direction in the short wave case. Each shelf mode has a zero group velocity at some intermediate value of wave length.

• 한국해양학회지
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.99-107
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• 1981

A partial differential equation for the adjusted sea level, obtained from the long wave equations in shallow water, is reduced to a simpler one by the use of physically reasonable approximations based on the observations. The similar equation for the stream function indicates that shelf waves are generated by the longshore wind stress. This indication is in good agreement with the high correlation between the adjusted sea levels and the longshore wind stress. From the dispersion relationship and the boundary conditions, there exist a countable infinite number of modes which satisfy a first-order wave equations. The adjusted sea level for a given wind stress can easily be calculated by utilizing the convolution and the Fourier transformation. Some detailed solutions are presented here for sinusoidal and exponential wind stress.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.134-142
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• 1990

A wide-angle approximation in the parabolic equation method is presented to calculate wave transformation in the shallow water. The parabolic approximation to the mild-slope equation is obtain-ed by the use of a splitting matrix, which leads to a generalized equation in form. A numerical model based on a finite difference scheme is presented and computational results are provided to test the model against the laboratory measurements of circular and elliptical shoals. The numerical results are in good agreement with most of experimental data. Therefore it can be concluded that the model shows greater capability to reproduce the characteristics of waves in the refractive focus.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.232-239
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• 1993

In this paper the effect of wave motion acting on the natural folds of dispersed material in the coastal zone is studied. After integrating the usual diffusion equation with respect to the depth using shallow-water approximation simpler equation for integrated concentration was obtained. which holds for long waves of arbitrary amplitude and far any arbitrary barotropic flows. Different situations of long wave action on impurity concentration in the frame of this equation are considered.