• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.26-43
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• 1973

This study was carried out on the Sewbility of Urethane Foam usually used as coldproof lining. The Sewability was estimated with the Puckering Grade and Seam Efficiency according to the thicknes of urethane foam, fineness and material of sewing thread, and the sort of covering fabric. The result shows the following ; 1. The thick foam proportinally shows the low Puckering Grade. 2. Effect on the sewability is small in fineness of sewing thread but large in material. Especially silk thread shows the greatest sewability in foam sewing. When the material of covering fabric is same as that of sewing thread (for example ; p/c fabric and p/c thread) the sewability is excellent in special. 3. Taffeta in covering foam is not suitable to foam sewing, satin and twill show superior sewability without reagrd to the thickness of foam. 4. In case of sewing foam covered with tricot, optimum thickness of foam and fineness of sewing thread through pretest must determine. 5. The thicker foam is the better seam efficiency tends, and Seam Efficiency largely effects to the strength of the sewing thread itself. 6. The seam Efficiency can heighten with the strength of sewing thread in proportion to that of covering fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.154-159
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• 1999

In this study, for different test methods of the performance of sewing threads were used to evaluate the sewability of 10 different industrial threads. Sewability evaluations related to the breakage of thread during sewing operation were investigated by seam length and fabric thickness method (Test 1), thread tension method (Test 2), strength retention method (Test 3), and backward sewing method(Test 4), and discussed. Two of the methods, Test 1 and Test 2, simulated very harsh sewing conditions which each thread could accept as an evaluation of its sewability. Core spun thread ranked with the best sewability generally and followed by air jet textured (ATY) thread. Spun thread was superior to the filament thread in sewing thread type. In general, there was a high degree of correlation in the results of Test 1 and Test 2. The order of sewing thread by sewability test 1 was polyester spun thread, cotton thread, and p/c core spun thread. The order of sewing thread by test 2 was polyester spun thread, and p/c core spun thread. Cotton threads and cotton blended threads performed better in Test 3, and ATY threads and core spun threads in Test 4.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.363-373
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• 1973

The Sewability was tested with the seam strength and Puckering Grade by a general sewing machine according to some properties of simulated Leather, yarn tensile strength needle and stitches. The main results tested are as follows ; 1. The thick and uncomfortable leather is unable to be sewed by a general sewing machine, but the thin and soft one is able to. 2. The interval between stitches depends on type of leather used, and the variance in accordance with type of leather varies much more in the case of narrower interval. 3. When the sewability of leather-surface is not so good, is desirable to pour oil on the surface for the purpose of better efficiency. 4. The seam strength is directly proportional to interval of stitch and tensile strength of yarn and leather used, and needle No. 14 is more effective than No.1l. 5. The more the soft and thin leather is, the lower the Puckering Grade becomes. Type of yarn and interval of stitches do not seem to effect the Puckering Grade.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.20-24
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• 2001

The primary objective of this study was to empirically explore the mechanical properties of marketing Korean fabrics by using KES-FB system and estimate the sewability of Korean clothes by the mechanical properties. From the empirical research, it was found that Korean fabrics for spring and summer has been transformed easier and less flexible by shearing Korean fabrics for autumn and winter. Also, it was found that there is a significant difference in the hand value as tensile, surface and compression. It was found that Korean fabrics for spring and summer has a stiffness and elastic properties of matter and Korean fabrics for autumn and winter has a bulky and abundant elasticity. Finally, it was found that Korean fabrics for autumn and summer in the joint of account of the mechanical properties. Also, the difficulties of process has been expected by sewability like seam-pucker, over feed, sewing and steam-press.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.350-357
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• 2001

In this study, seam strength, seam elongation and seam efficiency of polyurethane coated fabrics were examined under various sewing conditions using three kinds of fabrics, four kinds of sewing threads and three kinds of stitch lengths. And the sewability of polyurethane coated fabrics were evaluated by FAST system. The results were as follows: 1. Seam strength decreased with the increase of stitch length. The loop strength of sewing thread and the type of base fabric than the type of coated surface had an effect on seam strength. 2. Seam elongation also decreased with the increase of stitch length and was affected by the type of base fabric. The tensile elongation of polyurethans coated fabric had an effect on seam elongation. 3. Sean efficiency also was related to stitch length, the type of base fabric, and seam strength. The suitable seam efficiency was within 50%∼65% in which polyurethane coated fabric and sewing thread broke at the same time. Therefore PS thin and PPC thin sewing threads and 3mm stitch length were suitable to polyurethane coated fabrics. 4. The relaxation shrinkage(RS) of polyurethane coated fabric was smaller than the smallest value of control chart in FAST system. And the extensibility(E) and the shear rigidity(G) were larger than the largest value.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.7
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• pp.971-979
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• 1999

The experiment was conducted on five different kinds of fabrics dyed with loess. The sewability of fabrics dyed with loess by measuring the maximum needle piercing forces(MPF) through fabrics has been studied, MPF measurement using tensile tester was done 60 times for each fabrics at fixed low speed of 300mm/min. The nature of the loess on the dyed fabrics was physically jammed betweenthe fibers or adhered to the surface of fibers in the form of the fine particles so that the MPF through fabrics increases extremely in proportion to the increase of loess uptake and the plying number of fabrics dyed with loess. This results indicate that the MPF through fabrics is affected by mean value of the coefficient of friction on the surface of fabric(MIU) and cloth cover factor(Kc) in this experiment. Fabric was finished with softner to decrease the MPF during sewing operation, The MPF through softner finished fabric was decreased remarkably.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.123-129
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyse the effect of weaving preparatory process characteristics on the PET fabric sensibility through assessment of handle, garment formability and sewability for the enhancement of the physical property of the PET fabrics. For this purpose, eleven fabric specimens processed on the interlacing, pirn winder, 2-for-1 twister, weaving and dyeing and finishing processes were prepared and processing tension and interlacing intensity after each process were measured with various processing conditions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.7
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• pp.998-1006
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• 1999

This study has investigated the relation between the sewing speed and seam breaking strength applied perpendicular to the seam direction. Breaking strength efficiency breaking mode of seams were examined under various sewing conditions using three kinds of sewing threads and four kinds of fabrics. The results obtained are as follows : 1. According to the increase in sewing speed seam strength was remarkably decreased. Seam strength and its loss difference were shown variously as threads and fabrics were mixed. 2. In case of fabrics with higher strength seam strength showed higher. And the seam strength was determined by the loop strength. 3. In case of fabrics with lower strength seam strength and its difference for every sample showed lower. So the strength of fabrics dominated the seam strength than those of threads. 4. In the experiment using various fabrics and sewing threads there was a type of thread appropriate to each fabric. Fabrics and threads with have similar physical properties were shown proper seam efficiency. 5. The breaking mode was different for every sample seam that was tested.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.57-64
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• 2013

As the clothing materials have been more functional and advanced, the cotton fabrics for dress shirts or blouses have been more qualified and the sewability for high degree of completion has been required. This study aims to identify the seam strength depending on the change of stitch density of fine cotton fabrics by fabric and thread and so the general seam performance of fine cotton fabrics by analyzing the seam efficiency and breaking mode of seams. For an experiment, 3 kinds of fine cotton fabrics and 2 kinds of threads were selected and the sample was made by changing the stitch density by four steps. Then, the seam strength was measured. Next, the seam efficiency and breaking mode of seams were analyzed on the basis of the results of seam strength measurement. The results are as follows: All fabrics showed the similar tendency in seam strength. The seam strength is related to the tensile strength and thread strength, it increased only to a certain stitch density. When the stitch density exceeded a certain level, fabrics were destroyed or threads were cut. Then, the seam strength didn't increase. Furthermore, the more the seam strength increased, the more the seam efficiency increased. For increasing the maximum stitch density, it was required to use the fabrics and threads which had similar properties, in other words, the high thread strength for the high tensile strength and the low thread strength for the high tensile strength.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.305-314
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• 2016

This paper investigated the applicable possibility of PTT and wool staple fibers to the air vortex system as high quality yarns for a high emotional and comfort garment. It was found that the tactile hand of vortex yarn knitted fabrics was harsher than ring and compact yarns knitted fabrics. It was observed that formability and sewability of air vortex yarn knitted fabrics seemed worse than ring and compact yarns due to low tensile and compressional resilience and high bending and shear hysteresis of air vortex yarn knitted fabrics. It revealed that wicking and drying rates of air vortex yarn knitted fabric were better than ring and compact yarns; in addition, the heat keepability of vortex yarn knitted fabric was higher than ring and compact yarns due to low thermal conductivity and max heat flow rate ($Q_{max}$). Any difference of thermal shrinkage between air vortex and ring yarn knitted fabrics was not shown, but pilling characteristic of air vortex yarn knitted fabric was superior. However, it was shown that wicking, drying, thermal property and pilling characteristics of air vortex yarn knitted fabric were superior due to air vortex yarn structure with parallel fibers in the core part and periodical and fasciated twists in the sheath part of the yarns.