• Title/Summary/Keyword: ruff

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A Study of Ruff Collar Reflected on the Late 20th Century Fashion (현대(現代)패션에 나타난 러프 칼라에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Yun, Sun-Mi;Bae, Soo-Jeong
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.6 no.4
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    • pp.32-45
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    • 2002
  • The purpose of this study is, to renew understanding the aesthetic value of a ruff collar and to expand the border of creation in designing as the source of inspiration being applied to an retro style by inquiring various ruff collars re-illuminated in the present-day fashion trend. The ruff collar investigated through the above historical contemplation became the source of inspirations in the current retro trend and was variously modified in modern fashion. In the 1980s, we can find a dignified and feminine image in graceful and exquisite suits or dresses. Especially, the spanish round ruff of the 2st period appeared on works by a lot of designers. From the application by designers like John Galliano in the latter half of the 80s, we can be well aware that the meaning of decoration was newly altered. In the 1990s, the ruff collar was shown in various fashion style, but it was what was reborn as a factor of modern fashion through a liberal compromise and harmony. Various style was shown from exaggeratedly swelling one to smaller one, which were more diversely applied than that of the 80s. A Medici collar and a Queen Elizabeth collar were also displayed being fitted to a modern sense by Vivienne Westwood and Louis F raud. A ruff in the 2000s was settled as a factor of modern fashion, exposing on works of designers more often than in the 1980s and 90s. The spanish round ruff appeared on garments, while a Medici collar and a Queen Elizabeth collar went out of sight. A new form of the ruff was regenerated by extreme magnification and simplification, and several designers like Issey Miyake and Alexander Mcqueen brought forward a new way in materials and technical skills. According to this research, a ruff collar developed as a fashion factor which characterizes a certain period of time, reflecting the aesthetical sense of Renaissance and turning into various and distinct forms. Afterwards, it exerted influence on modern fashion. This is offering the source of inspiration to contemporary designers.

A Study on the Exquisite Revolution of the 16th Century Ruff Collar and Ruff Cuffs in the Portraitures of Queen Elizabeth I (엘리자베스 1세의 초상화에 나타난 16세기 러프 칼라와 러프 커프스의 미시적 변화 연구)

  • Bae, Soo-Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.35 no.2
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    • pp.167-180
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    • 2011
  • The portraits created in the age of Queen Elizabeth I show a very exquisite description about the ruff collar and cuffs representing the notable evolution of periodical costumes from a detailed viewpoint. This thesis analyzes the ruff collar and cuffs of the portraits of Queen Elizabeth I. The method used selects 32 pieces from the portraits of Queen Elizabeth I that are considered excellent depictions of a ruff collar and cuffs, to investigate size, form and decorations. Conclusively, the ruff collar tends to be extremely enlarged and thickened (coinciding with the development of glue) while the cuffs denote the aspect of double cuffs coupled with the turn-back cuffs without a change in size. These traits were widely shown from 1585 to 1587, while after 1588 the ruff cuffs completely disappeared in the portraits of Elizabeth I. At the same time, the change of a ruff collar was remarkable, the collar being in the erect position behind the head (with the use of supporters), of a consistent thickness and decoration of elaborate lace. During the transition period from the $16^{th}$ century to the $17^{th}$ century the earliest change was in cuffs followed by collars. This research is a helpful guide to detect the relatively exact date of portraits not definitively identified in the latter part of the $16^{th}$ century and to observe the microscopic evolution of costumes in the latter part of the $16^{th}$ century.

A Study of Renissasnce Decorative Detail -After 1995 Fashion Trend- (현대 패션에 나타난 르네상스적 장식요소에 관한 연구-1995년 이후에 나타난 트랜드 중에서-)

  • Lee, Eun-Young;Seong, Eun-Joo;Lee, Gi-Won
    • The Journal of Natural Sciences
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    • v.10 no.1
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    • pp.153-174
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    • 1998
  • It is based on variety imagination not in monotonous through after '95 fashion trend. Specially, in women's fashion coming back of the feminity with giving status and social advance. Renaissance fashion trend in these days trend. Among modern trend. We find decorative beauty in contemporary fashion trend. There are many expressions about deep and rich color and velvet material, exaggerated collar in ruff collar shape, and applied sleeves and stomacher

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Using Traditional Costumes in the Design of Game Character Clothing for 'Heungbu and Nolbu 1' Series of On-line Game Tales Runner (전통복식을 응용한 게임 캐릭터 의상 디자인 개발: 테일즈런너의 '흥부와 놀부1' 게임을 중심으로)

  • Cho, Du Na;Kim, Eun Jung
    • Human Ecology Research
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    • v.52 no.4
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    • pp.347-354
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    • 2014
  • 'Heongbu and Nolbu 1' is a series of the on-line game 'Tales Runner.' It is based on a traditional Korean fairy tale. However, the game characters in Heongbu and Nolbu 1 wear casual clothes even though the game is set in the Joseon Dynasty. Therefore, this paper presents proposed game characters clothes based on traditional Korean costumes from the Joseon Dynasty. This work should help inspire gamers and game designers with the beauty of Korean traditional costumes and familiarize them with an aspect of Korean people's identity. A literature review of online games and game characters was carried out, and game characters' clothes were analyzed. The design motifs of historical relics of the Joseon era were evaluated. Three styles, one traditional and two "fusion" styles integrating traditional and modern elements were proposed for each of the 4 characters: Chowon, Ruff, Bada and Abell. The chulrik and jurip were used as design motifs for Chowon. A traditional chulrik, short chulriks and pants are suggested. Second, the dongari and jeonrip were used as design motifs for Ruff. A traditional dongdari, sapok pants, deck pants and a vest are suggested. Third, the jeogori and chima were used as design motifs for Bada. A traditional female hanbok, arm warmers, short-sleeved jeogori and dress are suggested. Fourth, the dang-ui and daeran-chima were used as design motifs for Abell. A traditional dang-ui and daeran-chima, blouse, skirt, jumper and tight Bermuda shorts are suggested. The length, shape and color were converted into new styles, but some traditional elements such as the git and goreum were retained.

Scaling Methods for Icing Wind Tunnel Test (결빙 풍동시험을 위한 스케일링 기법 연구)

  • An, Young-Gab;Myong, Rho-Shin
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Aeronautical & Space Sciences
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    • v.40 no.2
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    • pp.146-156
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    • 2012
  • In-flight icing remains as one of the most persistent hazards for aircraft operations. The effect of icing on aircraft performance and safety has to be evaluated during the development and airworthiness certification process. The scaling method is a procedure to determine the scaled test conditions in icing wind tunnels in order to produce the same result as when the reference model is exposed to the desired cloud conditions. In this study, a scaling program is developed to provide an easy-to-use tool to the aero-icing community. The Olsen and Ruff 4th methods are employed for this purpose and the velocity is calculated by matching the dimensionless Weber number. To validate the program, the results are compared with the NASA scaling results. The scaling examples based on FAR (Federal Aviation Regulation) Part 25 Appendix C are also presented. Finally, a validation study using a state-of-the-art icing simulation code FENSAP-ICE is presented.

COLD NEUTRON SCATTERING STUDIES OF FRUSTRATED PYROCHLORE ANTIFERROMAGNETS

  • GARDNER, J.S.;RULE, K.C.;RUFF, J.P.C.;CLANCY, J.P.;GAULIN, B.D.
    • Nuclear Engineering and Technology
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    • v.43 no.1
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    • pp.7-12
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    • 2011
  • In this paper we review the neutron scattering work performed on 3 different antiferromagnetic pyrochlores which reveal how the character of the magnetic interactions plays a major role on the eventual outcome of the magnetic ground state. $Tb_2Ti_2O_7$, $Er_2Ti_2O_7$ and $Y_2Mo_2O_7$ have all been extensively studied over the past 15 years and are known to display, respectively, spin liquid, long range ordered and glassy ground states. Although detailed experiments have been performed on these compounds, and much is known about their low temperature properties, a detailed theoretical understanding of their ground states remains elusive.

A Comparison of the Beauty of Costume in the Gothic and Renaissance Periods

  • Chung, Hyun-Sook
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • v.4 no.2
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    • pp.138-145
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    • 2001
  • This study aims to compare the beauty of costume in the Gothic with that of Renaissance periods. By analyzing the beauty of costume which reflects the ideal of the age, this study attempts to provide the insight which can predict the beauty of future costume The characteristics of Gothic costume is the from of the loose enveloping of the body, which can be accounted for from the influence the Christian religion, and the emphasis on the vertical line influenced by the steeple in the Gothic architecture expressing the enthusiasm of the religion. The emphasis on height in the Gothic cathedrals was reflected in the hennin, pointed shoes, and lengthy sleeves of Gothic dress. The beauty of Gothic costume lies in the from of slender, the emphases on the vertical line, the we of heraldry and parti-color, and pointed hat and shoe. The Renaissance architecture shows a broad horizontal appearance. There is the similarity between the Renaissance costume and Renaissance architecture. The beauty of Renaissance costume lies in the form of the exposing body, the exaggerated silhouette, the emphasis on the horizontal line, the use of ruff and slash in order to display the beauty of human body and the beauty of cubic. The ideal beauty of Gothic and Renaissance costume was influenced by the spirit the age and was in contrast.

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A Study on the Men's Underclothes of Renaissance Ages (르네상스시대의 남성속옷에 관한 고찰)

  • 김주애
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.40
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    • pp.171-180
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    • 1998
  • This is a study on the Men's Underclothes of Renassience Ages. The changes associated with the Tudor regime were sufficiently profound to afect the nature and purpose of underclothes. Ceasing to be merely a layer serving to protect the skin, they now began to assist the external costume of both sexes in expressing class distinction. In order to attract still greater attention, the edge of the shirt was ruffled at the neck, a decoration which soon developed into a separate accessory, the ruff. The waistcoat, which originally was an under-garment, was shown, when the doublet was taken off, en deshabille. Thus we see that for men in the sixteenth century the undergarment was no longer an obscure drudge, but was promoted to serve in the general mode of expressing what the whole costume so extravagantly announced ; and likewise to share in that extreme degree of the social superior. The pinched waist of both sexes was not so much for sex attraction, but to signify social superiority. In the period under considera-tion, then, from the Tudors to the end of the Jacobeans, the new function of underclothes was much the same for both sexes ; to exploit the grandeur of the costume as evidence of rank, and only by that indirect method to add to the wearer's sex attractions.

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Control of Avian Coccidiosis : Past, Present, and Future (닭 콕시듐병 방제의 과거, 현재, 그리고 미래)

  • Ruff, M.D.
    • Korean Journal of Poultry Science
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    • v.19 no.3
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    • pp.151-160
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    • 1992
  • Control of coccidiosis depends on medication, management, immunity, or some combination of these methods. Prophylactic medication with anticoccidials remains the primary method of control, although the development of drug resistance is a major problem. Shuttle and rotation programs are increasingly used to delay the onset of drug resistance. Sensitivity testing has become an important tool in the identification of what specific medications will be effective in specific poultry operations. Management techniques for the control of coccidiosis have not been totally effective because most disinfectants do not kill the coccidial oocysts. Present methods for vaccination are currently limited to the use of controlled doses of live coccidia. New vaccination methods under investigation include vaccination with attenuated strains or parasite antigens produced either by fractionating the parasites or genetically engineered sub unit vaccines.

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A Study on the Grotesque in Modern Fashion - Women's Fashion Collections since 2000 (현대패션에 나타난 그로테스크에 관한 연구: 2000년 이후 컬렉션을 중심으로)

  • Park, Sun Young;Kim, Jeong Mee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.16 no.1
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    • pp.13-25
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    • 2014
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the concept and characteristics of 'grotesque,' examine the aesthetic characteristics of grotesque reflected in arts and dress, and modern fashion. The findings are as follows: 1) Grotesque indicates unnatural, unpleasant, and exaggerated that it upsets or shocks person. The characteristics of grotesque include terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust. 2) The grotesque art represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by disordered form, nonnatural things, evil world, unorthodox methods, unrealistic image, strange dreamland. 3) The grotesque dress represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by exaggerated silhouette, exaggerated adornment, excessive decoration, incroyables, using exaggerated silhouette, crinoline silhouette, bustle silhouette, surrealist style, extraordinary materials, glam rock style, unique silhouette, cyber look. 3) Terror was implied in the punk look suits of Junya Watanabe, and exaggerated outers of Viktor & Rolf. Abnormality was shown in the atypical suit of John Galliano, Junya Watanabe's dress decorated with the extreme ruff, Thom Browne's suit of abnormal proportion. Unreality was reflected in the architectural dress of Gareth Pugh, Mermaid dress of Giles, the surreal suit of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Amusement was represented in the amusing suit of Gareth Pugh, John Galliano's dress of sexual perversion. Disgust was reflected in the decadent dress of Thierry Mugler, Undercove's suit, and the ensemble of shocking details.