• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.10
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• pp.177-189
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop a suitable jacket pattern for elderly women. The subjects were two women of the ages of 65-70, who had different bust size. To reflect the ready made pattern drafting systems, 4 industrial patterns were selected. After analyzing the problems of these patterns, a new jacket pattern was proposed. The results were as follows : 1) The amount of appropriate ease in fitted jacket for elderly women was about 10cm at the bust circumference, 10∼12cm at the hip circumference and the height of sleeve cap was AH/3+0.5cm. 2) Considering an enlargement of waist and abdomen, difference between front and back size was 2cm on the bust line, 6-8cm on the waist and hip line. 3) Because of the shape of concavity of back-waist, center back line in the pattern was folded by 0.5cm from center back waist toward side seam for manipulation. 4) The new jacket pattern was compared with the existing pattern through the wearing test by sensory evaluation. It showed that the fit and comfort of experimental pattern was superior to those of the existing pattern.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.254-260
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to grasp the actual condition toward the clothing of senior males' and perception of male's formal wear companies for silver market through a survey targeting senior males and clothing companies. The survey was conducted targeting 196 senior males and chief-patterners of 7 companies' 10 brands. The questionnaire distributed to senior males was consisted of 22 items regarding the perception and satisfaction on clothes. And 12 items concerning the perception of senior male clothing brands and the size system was developed for clothing companies. The results of the study are as follows. The study revealed that most senior males perceived that brand clothing for them was necessary. More than half of the respondents were not satisfied with ready-made clothes. And many senior males prefer ready-made clothing when they purchase their clothes. For these reasons, senior males apparel market might be promising. Currently, the perception of male's formal wear companies on the need of brand was high. However, considering that brand launching might be difficult to be realized soon I presume that size spectrum based on body size of senior males is necessary which reflect their physical characteristics and activities.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.136-145
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• 2009

Growing needs of reducing energy consumption and enhancing creative thinking brought expanding of men's business wear market into more trendy and casual sector. As fashion trend of men's business wear has changes to casual jackets, there is need to study for the inner structure of casual jacket. The inner structure of casual jackets are different from conventional tailored jackets so that they can provide more comforts, functionality and characteristic style. The purpose of this study is to find out how the inner structure of casual jackets are made up by comparing jackets of various brands. In order to categorize the construction methods, where, how and what kind of lining, interlining, sleeve heads and shoulder pads are applied were studied. Although there are considerable varieties in making up methods, it could be concluded that casual jackets have lighter and less time and labour consuming inner structure, i.e. partial linings, fusible inter-linings, ready made sleeve heads and shoulder pads.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.475-483
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• 2005

The ready-made clothes for obese women are not manufactured systematically due to the diversity and scarcity of their body shape. In this study, we first analyzed and classified 104 obese women's body shape to select four representative subjects. Then, the four subjects participated in wearing test to evaluate the performance of the jacket patterns which are available in the market and widely-used at the same time. The characteristics of the jacket patterns for obese women were also investigated. As to the highly rated jacket in terms of body motion, it was found that difference between the breast width to axilla and the breadth to anterior midaxilla is larger than the other jackets, and the breast width of front body is wider than what of back width. It was noted, however, that the armhole depth and the width of obese women' jackets should not be determined indirectly by the magnitude of the girth around bust, waist or hip as in the case of regular sized women's. It is because body proportion of obese women is different from that of standard sized women.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.469-483
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• 2008

Body image is important as it is related to self-esteem and can be enhanced by clothing and the degree of enhancement is related to clothing fit. The purpose of the paper is to find the adequate ease distribution of jacket pattern for the obese women who want to slenderize their shape by optical illusion. Subjective evaluation of the visual appearance we collected and, at the same time, 3D clothing air volume was observed for the nine types of experimental jackets with different ease distribution. As results it was found that jacket pattern for the obese women is that the front width of pattern is wider than what of back width in waist and abdomen. It was also noted that there was distance between clothing and skin in the girth around hip of jacket. 3D scanner clearly demonstrated the distribution of ease is useful to find the pattern variables responsible for the slender appearance of the obese women. The ready-to-made clothes for the obese women's clothing should be manufactured systematically in due consideration of the diversity and scarcity of the obese women's body shape.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.746-754
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• 2016

This study aimed to investigate the status of ready-made suit and MTM (Made-to-measure) suit production with 10 men's suit brands turning over 200 billion won. Their target age group is late 30's to late 40's. Regarding production for the ready-made suit, eight out of 10 brands are using both KS and their own sizing. Classification of body shapes was done in 8 brands, mostly for upper body in simple ways (lean, normal, and obese). All brands are conducting fittings on only standard size. The number of sizes produced is varying depending on the brands; 9 to 17 for a jacket and 9 to 20 for a pair of pants. Regarding on the MTM production, four out of 10 brands have implemented MTM production. The rate of MTM production to their total production is about 15-20%. There were positive opinions on MTM production since it enables to reduce stocks through a small quantity of production for necessary sizes only. The reasons of orders of MTM production were answered as 'no size available', 'unique body shape', etc., and most orders were placed by consumers who are fat-bellied or have thick thighs. They have used MTM automated CAD software developed by Gerber Technology or Investronica. All the brands have utilized automated marker-making software and cutting facilities for MTM production.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.11
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• pp.1621-1633
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• 2007

The purpose of this research was to evaluate the size fitness of ready-made jacket and their demands through the survey of the middle aged women, and having them try on the jackets, and present the basic data on the ways to increase the fitness by better size controls. The jackets, that were modified and improved through the experiment of the women with triangle-figure in their 50s, were compared and evaluated. The experiment showed a difference in the appearance and the motional function. The triangle-figure had the lowest fitness, thus most uncomfortable. The triangle-figure is characterized by the large waist, leaving small space between body and clothes. This creates the wrinkles in bust or waist area, making it uncomfortable to move. The jacket, that was produced by modifying these problem areas and developing research pattern, showed a good results on the appearances and function.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1092-1101
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the size of ready-made clothing for elderly women and to evaluate their fit according to body type. Subjects were 33 women aged 60 and older, and they were classified by stature and drop index. The size of clothing which manufactured by four apparel brands were measured and compared with body size, and the size designation of four brands was compared. The questionnaire was carried out to subjects, and the size recognition and dissatisfaction with ready-made clothing were analyzed. The fitting test were carried out, and the subjects evaluated the fit of jackets and slacks of four brands. In the result of questionnaire, we found that subjects had little recognition about their clothing size. Subjects responded that they often felt dissatisfaction in their jacket length, sleeve length, shoulder width, bust girth, slacks, and waist girth. We found that each apparel brands had different sizing system and that even if the size designation of label was same, the clothing size was quite different. So the elderly women who didn't have so much knowledge about their own clothing size had a tendency to confuse with choosing proper clothing for themselves. In the wearer's evaluation, the significant difference in the degree of unsatisfaction were certified in several body parts according to wearer's body type. Especially, the degree of unsatisfaction in the case of subjects of having very small stature or very small hip was higher than other body types. From the result, we certified that it was necessary to consider the characteristics of each body type to increase the satisfaction of elderly women with clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.654-663
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to improve the classic jacket pattern for Korean young men whose chest circumference is 91~94cm, status is 170~175 cm, and drop value between chest and waist circumference is 15. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. Through the comparative investigation on the conventional classic jacket patterns of Hyung-sook Lee's, 문화's in Japan, and SMA's and the clothing experiment, the characteristics of every three patterns were found. 2. According to correct the unsuitable point in Hyung-sook Lee's pattern which was found more suitable than other two patterns and to refer to the product size of the ready-made classic jackets for men, the new suitable classic jacket pattern was achieved. 3. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort and one to one comparison was applied to evaluate the new classic jacket pattern by comparing with the Hyung-sook Lee' s jacket pattern. From the result of the sensory evaluation and one to one comparison, it was found that the new classic jacket pattern was more suitable for appearance and comfort. 4. From the result of this study, the suitable surplus of men's classic jacket at present is about 23~24cm on the chest circumference, 31~32 cm on the waist circumference, 14~15 cm on the hip circumference, 13~14 cm on the upper arm circumference, and 14 cm on the wrist circumference and the ease is about 3.5 cm on the armhole circumference. This size is not the absolute size but it helps to make the surplus in any other clothes for Korean young men.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.1-16
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• 2002

The need for ready-to-wear clothing increases as the problem comes to arise from the fit of custommade clothing due to the characteristics of middle-aged women's somatotype. At this point of time, a study on the realities of production of custom-made clothing in middle-aged women's clothing business firms is of very greatly significance. Therefore, this study was intended to identify the problem and improvements through the survey research of production of custom-made clothing in middle-aged women's clothing business firms and further present the plan for development of custom-made clothing business. The questionnaire was framed based on the contents extracted from the preliminary questionnaire research for the pattern section chief of each business firm. Collected data were statistically processed using the SPSS 10.0 Windows program. As a result, the following findings were obtained: 1. The target age of the middle-aged women's clothing business firms ranged from more than 45 years to less than 50 years of age. Clothing business firms much made inroads into the ready-to-wear clothing market largely in the 1980s and the 1990s. Their active entry into the custom-made clothing market occurred in the 1970s and the 1980s. 2. In terms of the clothing production method of middle-aged women's clothing firms, some private boutique and designer brand clothing firms entered the clothing market with a focus on custom-made clothing in the beginning of its organization and introduced the production method of ready-to-wear clothing in accordance with changes in production methods and consumers' needs and wants. National brand clothing firms manufactured clothing with a focus on ready-to-wear clothing from the beginning of its organization, but at last they manufactured both partial custom-made and whole custom-made as the problem arose from ready-to-wear clothing. Seeing that their clothing production showed the ratio readyto-wear to custom-made clothing of 2.58:1. And it was found that the manufacture of ready-to-wear and custom-made clothing took into consideration the great difference in the pattern, size and design plan. The research of the clothing production process showed that whole custom-made and partial custommade were distinguished according to whether or not the sample was presented. 3. The ready-to-wear pattern of middle-aged women's clothing firms were used with a focus on the 'patternmaker-developed pattern' and company-developed pattern'. Most clothing businesses produced clothing in 4 to 5 basic sizes, which is found to be insufficient to complement the physical characteristics of middle-aged women with many specific somatotypes. In the pattern of custom-made clothing, the 'pattern of ready-to-wear were applied' or the 'customized pattern was developed'. Actual measurements were most used as the size of custom-made, and accordingly it is predicted that the level of satisfaction is higher with the fit of custom-made clothing than that of ready-to-wear. The selling place and the head office showed the similar percent as the place for measuring the size of custom-made clothing. Size measurers were mostly the shop master. And it was found that most clothing business firms had a problem when the measured size was applied to the pattern. Accordingly, it is necessary to provide education on size measurement for shop masters. 4. It was found that in the middle-aged women's clothing firms, the pattern correction of the length of sleeve, jacket and slacks occupied the highest percent. Accordingly, it is necessary to provide for the size system to complement the accurate somatotype characteristics of middle-aged women. 5. In custom-made clothing customer management, most firms engaged in customer somatotype management through size management. They provided customers with commodity information by informing them of the sales and event period and practiced human management for customers by maintaining the get-together and friendly relationship. 6. Middle-aged women's clothing businesses responded that it would be necessary to improve the fit of custom-made clothing and complement their pursuit for individuality as the plan to improve its quality. In consequence, it suggests that middle-aged women's clothing businesses should provide middle-aged women with the clothing of better-suited size and refined design. Middle-aged women's clothing businesses responded that it was the most urgent task to form the custom-made clothing manufacturing team as the plan to expand the custom-made clothing market, which is identified as their emphasis on the systematized production of custom-made clothing.