• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.388-405
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• 2021

This study classifies the compositional methods of power shoulder jackets from 1980 to the present. It analyzes the relevance of jacket details according to how the power shoulder changes and its compositional methods by era. The research subdivides shoulder compositional techniques into seven, based on shoulder variation, sleeve variation, and the body and sleeve combination. The researcher investigates the frequency and trends of composing shoulders and analyzes details pertaining to the silhouette, jacket length, collar shape, and front closure. The most common method of shoulder composition is an angular shoulder variation. The others are a rounded shoulder variation, puffed sleeve, sleeve variation using pattern incision, raglan and kimono sleeves, and a shoulder variation that expanded the angle and width. The frequency differs slightly for each era. The relationship between shoulder compositional methods and details of power shoulder jackets is statistically significant, showing period-related differences. The homogeneity analysis results reveal that the shoulder composition of power shoulder jackets, the times, and details fall into distinct groups. This analysis shows that the silhouette, length, collar, and front closure of the power shoulder jacket differ depending on the power shoulder's compositional methods. Moreover, the shape of the power shoulder jacket is distinctly different. One can use this data to help develop the power shoulder jacket design by reflecting the details of shoulder compositional methods and changing trends over time.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.125-134
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of power-shoulder jacket shown in 08/09 F/W and 09/10 F/W London, Paris, Milan, New York collection and extract main expression words for development of semantic differential scales of visual image according to the change in shoulder angle and width of power-shoulder jacket. The result of this study is as follows. Power-shoulder jacket which were worn by 1980 business women have similar cutting with men's suit jacket, but have characteristics of exaggerating the body figure as exaggerated shoulder with pad and tight waist like an inverted triangle silhouette. Power-shoulder jackets shown in collections used glossy and glittering material and dark colors and formed slim silhouette with matches of shoulder line of temperate senses and casual wear. Like this, the power-shoulder jacket was expanded to daily casual wear from traditional formal wear. Main expression words of visual image of jackets according to the changes in angle and width of shoulder differ greatly depending on the expansion degree of angle and width of shoulder. Changes in shoulder angle may look tense, stiff and too much according to the amount of changes. However, it also has the image of sharp but dignified and charismatic. Also, it helps to show body figure more efficiently like being slim and looking taller. Related to the current trend emphasizing shoulder among women, it is evaluated to be stylish and trendy. When the expansion degree is not too much, changes in shoulder width partly show slim and slender waist under the influence of wider shoulder with basic tailored jacket image. However, when the expansion degree is enlarged, image related to the body figure is more definite compared to other visual images.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.80-91
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of visual effects and visual images by variations in shoulder angle and shoulder width of power shoulder jacket. The stimuli are 5 samples: One control group, 2 variations of the angle of shoulder line and 2 variations of the width of shoulder line. The data has been obtained from 87 fashion design majors. The data has been analyzed by Factor Analysis, Anova, Scheffe's Test and the Correlation Analysis. The results of the study are as follows: The visual images by the angle and the width of shoulder line of power shoulder jacket are composed of 4 factors : attention, stiffness and softness, masculinity, and trendiness. Among these factors, attention factor is estimated by the most important factor. The visual effects by the angle and the width of shoulder line of power shoulder jacket are composed of 3 factors : whole silhouette, neck and arm figure, upper body figure. In these factors, the whole silhouette is estimated by the most important factor. The power shoulder jacket with extreme changes in shoulder angle has double images: it looks trendy and classy but also gives an awkward image. In case of changes in shoulder width, the visual evaluation shows big differences with the degree of expansion. The visual evaluation with variation in angle has stronger image and effect than that in width. The power shoulder jacket trend itself is also evaluated that variation in angle reflects the trend better than that in width.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.117-125
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of body compensation image on variations in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket. Nine samples were examined: 3 variations of the shoulder height and 3 variations of the shoulder width. The data was evaluated by 123 fashion design majors. The results were as follows; as a result of analyzing the body compensation image according to changes in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket, five factors were selected; the shoulder compensation factor, the bust compensation factor, the waist compensation factor, the arm compensation factor and the neck compensation factor. Among these factors, the shoulder compensation factor is the most important factor. Examining the major effect of the body compensation image based on changes in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket, it had an independent influence on factors about waist, neck, shoulder and arm compensation except a factor about bust compensation, had an influence on interacting effect of factors about shoulder, bust, waist, arm compensation, and it had no influence on interacting effect of a factor about neck compensation. This shows that the shoulder height has larger effect on neck compensation image than the shoulder width in power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.315-324
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• 2022

This study aims to verify the sewing technology and the expression of the virtual garment program by comparing the appearance similarity between the real and the virtual power shoulder jacket. To this end, the H and the X silhouettes of the power shoulder jacket were selected as the reference designs. After making the reference designs into real jackets by applying the human body dimensions of women in their twenties, virtual avatars and jackets were produced using CLO 3D programs. The results showed that the H-type with only expanded shoulders and less design variation had a high similarity between the reference photo and real garment, the real and virtual garment, and the reference photo and virtual garment. The power shoulder jacket of the reference picture was well reproduced in the real and virtual garments. Conversely, the X-type jacket, which is a tight fit and has many design variations, showed somewhat low similarity in the circumference items and the basic construction line. Especially in tight-fitted power shoulder jackets, the fact that shoulder angles and the essential items for pattern making cannot be reflected in reproducing virtual models was found to be a limitation in increasing the similarity of virtual clothing. Furthermore, the sewing system gap between the real and the virtual clothing exposed a difference in the appearance of virtual clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.593-602
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• 2023

This study aimed to facilitate the use of virtual technologies such as sewing, appearance, and material expression in 3D virtual wear programs. For product production and education, we expounded how to express the shoulder shape and silhouette of sleeve-expanded power shoulder jackets. Two designs of sleeve-expanded power shoulder jackets were selected, and virtual jackets were produced using a virtual avatar based on the body dimensions of female subjects in their 20s. The essential purpose of a 3D virtual power shoulder jacket is to express the shoulder angle rise and shoulder width, which are much wider than the avatar's shoulder. Therefore, the virtual pad values were adjusted for the collision and rendering of each thickness. In addition, the position and angle of the virtual pads were controlled through simulation. Appearance similarity was evaluated using photographic data and the virtual jackets. For the set-in sleeve virtual power shoulder jacket, the wrinkle expressions of the torso and sleeve were rated as moderate, and material expression was slightly insufficient. The similarity of some ease and width items of the torso was tightly expressed, and the overall appearance, positions of lines, and details of jackets were rated high, especially at the neck and sleeve shapes. In the case of the kimono virtual power shoulder jacket, the expressions of the torso wrinkles and buttons were slightly lower; however, the overall similarity, basic lines, ease, shoulder and neck details, and material expression of the virtual jackets were highly evaluated.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.13 no.7
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• pp.131-140
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• 2013

Power shoulder look is most noticeable trend in women's wear in the 09/10 season. Specially jackets with sharper angle and wider shoulder became the best item since then, and were chosen for must-have item by fashion directors. Jacket occupied 50% in power shoulder items. Its shoulder angle was from 0 to 30 degree but items with 15 degree stood out among them. There are three methods to make power shoulder look jackets; shoulder extension method with moving shoulder tip up and sleeve cap height, method of extension and cutting sleeve cap with shorten shoulder length, and method of extension and moving shoulder tip up in the sleeve with shoulder line like raglan sleeve. As a result, shoulder angle is higher, starting point of shoulder line is closer to side neck point and shoulder point is extender to outside for appearance and fit. In shoulder extension method, the arm hole line was drawn with care by matching joining shoulder seam and setting the sleeve into the arm hole. In sleeve cap transformation, it is desired that starting point shoulder angle is moved closely to side neck point. In case of the sleeve with shoulder line, it needs to consider enough ease of shoulder and upper arm. For making patterns of power shoulder look jacket, it need to consider arm hole line, shoulder length, shoulder point position, sleeve cap height and sleeve width with interpretation design facts. In this study, through the analysis clothing construction method of power shoulder jacket, it is of help to pattern making for various power shoulder design items.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.617-625
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• 2016

In women's clothing the shoulders are distorted and exaggerated. Consequently, the wearers' bodies are transformed and interpreted according to modern standards. We therefore refer to this aspect of women's clothing as the power shoulder. This study aims to analyze the differences in sensibility images on variations in the shoulder shape of power shoulder jackets. Nine samples were examined that involved combinations of three variations of the shoulder height and three variations of the shoulder width. The data was evaluated by 123 fashion design majors. Four factors were selected: attractiveness, personality, activity, and self-respect. Among these factors, attractiveness is the most important. The study results indicated that changes in shoulder height acted as a major effect that had an independent influence on all four factors. In contrast, changes in shoulder width acted as a major effect that had an independent influence on attractiveness, personality, and activity but not on self-respect. It also had an influence on the interaction effect of attractiveness, personality, activity, and self-respect. We anticipate that this study will help individual customers select clothing that is suitable for their preference and body shape because it is now possible for them to estimate images of power shoulder jackets.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.59-71
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• 2011

As an exaggerated-shoulder becomes a growing trend women's clothing, the crescent shaped sleeve with parallel style lines in the arm hole is a highly used women's sleeve pattern. This study develops and provides an applicable method for making the crescent shaped power shoulder sleeve. An efficient basic method for making the 2 piece crescent shaped sleeve was developed and the sensory appearance test was carried out with experimental clothes. There are two principles for making the crescent shaped sleeve: having a style line in the sleeve and pasting part of the cut arm hole of the bodice to the sleeve. The latter would be more convenient for a 2 piece sleeve, mostly used for jackets. The crescent shaped sleeve used in power shoulder jackets should set the shoulder angle as you wish to extend and raise the shoulder point of the bodice and sleeve to the same height. For a stronger power shoulder image, a 3 piece sleeve has a better appearance. Also, the height of the shoulder has to be enhanced with a shoulder pad for a more stable sleeve.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.261-272
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• 2021

The purpose of the present study was to evaluate the thermal insulation of air-filled winter jackets according to the amount of air-filler using a thermal manikin. The insulation of these jackets' was compared to a down padded jacket with an identical design and size. The amounts of air-filler were 100% (26,219 cm³), 70% (18,645 cm³), 50% (13,110 cm³), and 0% (0 cm³). The results showed that a clothing insulation (Icl) of 0%, 50%, 70%, and 100% air, and 100% down jackets was 0.208, 0.243, 0.207, 0.176, and 0.315 clo, respectively. In addition, the down jacket with waisttaped had a clothing insulation of 0.369 clo. However, the highest value of clothing insulation per clothing weight was the 50% air-filled jacket in all conditions. In terms of regional power consumption of the thermal manikin, the down jacket consumed less power for the shoulder and chest than the air-filled jackets. In conclusion, in order to maximize the thermal insulation of air-filled jackets, an optimal amount of air-filler, that is, an amount which does not compromise (break) the layer of inner air between the surface of manikin and the lining of the jacket, should be explored. Further studies on lining materials, end-closed design, and changes in thermal insulation under the conditions of strong wind or heavy snow are recommended.