• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.106-121
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• 2020

In order to make harbor outskirt facilities robust using the reliability-based design, probabilistic models of wave heights at varying stage of shoaling process optimized for Korean sea waves are prerequisite. In this rationale, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling process of random waves over the beach with a sandbar at its foreshore. In doing so, comprehensive numerical models made of spatially filtered Navier-Stokes Eq., LES [Large Eddy Simulation], dynamic Smagorinsky turbulence closure were used. Considering the characteristics of swells observed at the east coast of Korean Peninsula, random waves were simulated using JONSWAP wave spectrum of various peak enhancement coefficients and random phase method. The coefficients of probabilistic models proposed in this study are estimated from the results of frequency analysis of wave crests and its associated trough detected by Wave by Wave Analysis of the time series of numerically simulated free surface displacements based on the threshold crossing method. Numerical results show that Modified Glukhovskiy wave height distribution, the most referred probabilistic models at finite water depth in the literature, over-predicts the occurring probability of relatively large and small wave heights, and under predicts the occurrence rate of waves of moderate heights. On the other hand, probabilistic models developed in this study show vary encouraging agreements. In addition, the discrepancy of the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution from the measured one are most visible over the surf zone, and as a result, the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution should be applied with caution for the reliability-based design of harbor outskirt facilities deployed near the surf-zone.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2003.08a
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• pp.240-244
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• 2003

파랑의 변형 가운데 천수, 굴절, 회절, 반사를 예측하는 수학적 모형은 크게 두 가지 유형으로 나눌 수 있는데, 첫 번째로 파형경사인 ha(k：파수. $\alpha$：진폭)를 비선형의 매개변수로 하는 Stokes 파랑식이 있고, 두 번째로 상대파고인 $\alpha$/h를 비선형의 매개변수로 하고 상대수심인 kh를 분산성의 매개변수로 하는 천수방정식(Shallow water equation)이 있다. 파랑의 변형 가운데 천수, 굴절만을 예측하고 회절, 반사를 예측하지 못하는 수학적 모형으로는 에너지 이송방정식이 있다. (중략)

• Journal of Hydrospace Technology
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.55-64
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• 1996

Herein a review is made on the validation problem of numerical codes applied to floating offshore structures. Since the dynamic behaviour of offshore floating structures in water waves is in general complex and nonlinear, a numerical approach seems to be promising. However, numerical codes are likely involved with uncertainties and they at the present status show apparent scatterness in typical bechmark tests, particularly in second-order wave forces. Convergence test is the minimum requirement for the validation of numerical codes. Some other practical check points are introduced to clarify the potential error sources. It is concluded that a standard procedure for validation must be urgently established sothat numerical methods can safely be used as a rational design tool.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.96-104
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• 1996

Hamilton's principle is used to derive Euler-Lagrange equations for free surface flow problems of incompressible ideal fluid. The velocity field is chosen to satisfy the continuity equation a priori. This approach results in a hierarchial set of governing equations consist of two evolution equations with respect to two canonical variables and corresponding boundary value problems. The free surface elevation and the Lagrange's multiplier are the canonical variables in Hamilton's sense. This Lagrange's multiplier is a velocity potential defined on the free surface. Energy is conserved as a consequence of the Hamiltonian structure. These equations can be applied to waves in water of finite depth including generalization of Hamilton's equations given by Miles and Salmon.

• Bulletin of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.17-26
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• 1974

In this paper, authors investigate and analyze the effects of the anti-rolling tank which are calculated in accord with the tank damping coefficients by the computer, and which are represented with both the tank water's saturating state and the normal state in the irregular waves by analog computer. As the results of these studies, we immediately find that the tank optimum damping coefficient $b_{to}$, is 0.3877 due to calculating $\mu$-values, analyzing and comparing inclinations of $\mu$-values, and that although a nonlinear elements are included in the response character of the ship-tank system, the output is no longer Gaussian distribution, even when the sea waves are considered as Gaussian, and can not be expressed by the spectral forms which premise the superposition theory.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.151-158
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• 1990

Various factors may contribute on the mixing processes in the surf zone formed by irregular waves. The turbulence motion driven by wave breaking may be one of the major causes, the effect due to spatial variation on current velocity be a secondary one, and the additional process may result from the irregular superposition of radiation stresses or wave breaking dissipation incurred by random breaking waves in a broadened surf zone. In the present study a numerical model of spectral waves and induced currents was developed using a superposition technique with ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ closure for mixing process and applied to a field situation of longshore current generated by spectral waves on a uniform beach. It was found from the application that the surf-zone mixing processes formed by irregular waves can be well described by using ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ equations if the source of ${\kappa}$ is properly represented. The nonlinear energy transfer was also found to have some influence on the velocity profile of longshore current particularly in very shallow water region near coast.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.209-218
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• 1995

Nonlinear interaction between directional wave components is theoretically analyzed in deep water. The perturbed solution for an irregular wave is derived accurate up to the third order of the wave steepness and it is shown that the wave characteristics are modulated due to the nonlinear interaction. The convergence rate of the perturbed solution depends on not only wave steepness but also wavelength ratio between wave components. The long-wave component of the perturbed solution converges rapidly. while the short-wave solution converges slowly or diverges. The short wave properties in a broad-band wave spectrum cannot accurately be obtained by the conventional wave-mode method because it fails to properly describe the modulation of short-wave frequency caused by the nonlinear interaction with much longer wave.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.5B
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• pp.559-573
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• 2008

In this study, we newly proposed 3-D nonlinear wave driver utilizing the Navier-Stokes Eq. the numerical integration of which is carried out using SPH (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics), an internal wave generation with the source function of Gaussian distribution and an energy absorbing layer. For the verification of new 3-D nonlinear wave driver, we numerically simulate the sloshing problem within a parabolic water basin triggered by a Gaussian hump and uniformly inclined water surface by Thacker (1981). It turns out that the qualitative behavior of sloshing caused by relaxing the external force which makes a free surface convex or uniformly inclined is successfully simulated even though phase error is visible and an inundation height shrinks as numerical simulation more proceeds. For the more severe test, we also simulate the nonlinear shoaling and refraction over uniform beach of wedge shape. It is shown that numerically simulated waves are less refracted than the linear counterpart by Hamiltonian ray theory due to nonlinearity, energy dissipation at the bottom and side walls, energy loss induced by breaking, and the hydraulic jump occurring when breaking waves encounter a down-rush by the preceding wave.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.43 no.1 s.145
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• pp.96-102
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• 2006

In this study, an optimization routine with genetic algorithms is coupled for the selection of free variables for the production of a control signal for the motion of wave board in the numerical wave tank. An excitation function for the controlling of the wave board is formulated on basis of amplitude modulation for the generation of nonlinear wave packets. The found variables by the optimization serve for the determination of wave board motion both with the computation and with the experiment. The breaking criterion of the water waves is implemented as boundary condition for the optimization procedure. With the analysis of the time registration on the local position in the wave tank the optimization routine is accomplished until the given design wave with defined surface elevation is found. Water surface elevation and associated fields of velocity and pressure are numerically computed.

• Proceedings of the Acoustical Society of Korea Conference
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• autumn
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• pp.219-222
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• 2001

Nondestructive nonlinear acoustic method in two dimensions is suggested as a useful tool for detecting defects in a composite layer-structured material. Spectrum level changes in fundamental and harmonic frequencies are observed in the presence of a layer type defect compared with in the absence of such a defect. It is proposed in this study that such spectrum changes we due to the mode conversion. The layer type defect makes different normal modes due to different boundary conditions in the thickness direction for the Lamb waves propagating in a layer-structured material. Specifically, the normal mode with the fundamental frequency in the case of the water-layer gap is converted to the normal mode with the second harmonic frequency in the case of the air-layer gap.