• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 1998.05a
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• pp.626-631
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• 1998

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.55 no.9
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• pp.645-655
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• 2022

Recently rip currents are frequently observed in the summer at the beaches located along the East Sea coast. To understand the generation types of rip currents occurred at the Ease Sea beaches, numerical simulations of rip currents over the topographies of the Sokcho, Naksan, Gyeongpo, Mangsang beaches were performed by using a Boussinesq-type wave and current model, FUNWAVE. The offshore and nearshore topographically-controlled rip currents and the transient rip currents were well reproduced due to the alongshore non-uniformities involving the phase interaction effects. This study looked over the generation types of rip currents to occur at the beaches with complicated field bathymetries.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.247-257
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• 2022

In order to investigate the generations of rip currents modulated with the tidal elevations at a mega-tidal beach at the West Sea coast, numerical simulations of rip currents over the topography of the Daecheon beach were performed by using a Boussinesq-type wave and current model, FUNWAVE. The mega-tidal coast includes rocky outcrops (i.e., reefs) lying over or under the water surface according to the tidal elevations in the offshore and nearshore bathymetry. The offshore topographically-controlled rip currents were well reproduced due to the alongshore non-uniformities transformed by the tide-modulated topography. This study addressed the generation types of rip currents to occur at the mega-tidal coast with the tide-modulated outcrops and reefs.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2000.09a
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• pp.140-148
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• 2000

The nearshore currents are required for the preservation of coastal areas and the more pressing environmental problems since they cause sediments to be in suspension and transport the sediments into tranquil regions. Numerical models are often used to calculate current patterns formed around man-made or naturally caused changes around the coastal area. (omitted)

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.155-166
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• 1999

The construction of the coastal structures and reclamation work causes the circulation reduced in the semi-closed inner water area and the unbalanced sediment budget of beach results in an alteration of beach topography. Among the various fluid motions in the nearshore zone water particle motion due to wave and wave-induced currents are the most responsible for sediment movement. Therefore it is needed to predict the effect of the environmental change because of development and so the prediction of wave transformation dose. The purpose of this study is to introduce the relation between waves wave-induced currents and sediment movement. In this study we will show numerical method using energy conservation equation involving reflection diffraction and reflection and the surfzone energy dissipation term due to wave breaking is included in the basic equation. For the wave-induced current the momentum equation was combined with radiation stresses lateral mixing and friction Various information is required in the prediction of wave-induced current depending on the prediction tool. We can predict changes in wave-induced current from the distribution of wave especially near the wave breaking zone. To evaluate these quantities we have to know the local condition of waves mean sea level and so on. The results from the wave field and wave-induced current field deformation models are used as input data of the sediment transport and bottom change model. Numerical model were established by a finite difference method then were applied to the development plan of the eastern Pusan coastal zone Yeonhwa-ri and Daebyun fishing port. We represented the result with 2-D graphics and made comparison between before and after development.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.177-188
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• 1991

The littoral drift in the nearshore zone occurs mainly due to wave action and nearshore currents. Beach topotraphical evolution model presented in this study shows the possibility which can be applied to the prediction of beach deformation over short time interval, associated with the construction of coastal structures. The 3-dimensional beach evolution model, based on Watanabe's equation and Deguchi's flux model, is developed and consists of three submodels of wave transformation, rip-currents, and beach deformation. This model is applied to the several cases with different conditions and compared with the results of Watanabe's numerical model. In addition, the effects of parameters involved are discussed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.108-115
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• 1991

This paper aims at the elucidation of the characteristics of longshore current profile after wave breaking. Wave breakers are always accompanied by complex turbulent process, wave energy losess occur and the mean water level also varies due to the gradient of radiation stress. These with other factors result in the development of longshore currents. Longshore currents have relations to the alongshore sand transport and to the diffusion of contaminants in nearshore region, thus the understanding and elucidation of them are very important from the engineering point of view. Using the calculated results, the factors such as lateral mixing cofficients, bed shear stress. wave angle. wave steepness and bottom slope. which are influencing the longshore current profile. are examined. Also, by comparing the results of longshore currents with the experimental data obtained by other investigators, the procedure proposed in the present study is shown to be valid.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 2001

Wave-induced currents drive nearshore transport processes, and hence an accurate understanding of wave-current interaction is required for proper management of coastal zone. This paper presents details of an adaptive quadtree grid based numerical model of the coupled wave climate and depth-averaged current field. The model accounts for wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction, wave-current interaction, set-up and set-down, mixing processes, bottom friction effects, and movement of land-water interface at the shoreline. The wave period- and depth-averaged governing equations arc discrctized explicitly by means of an Adarns¬Bashforth second-order finite difference technique on adaptive hierarchical staggered quadtree grids. Results from the numerical model are in reasonable agreement with the laboratory data of longshore current generated by oblique waves on a plane beach (Visser 1980, 1991).

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.11-19
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• 1986

This study aims at the elucidation of the distribution of longshore currents after wave breaking. Longshore currents have relations to the beach process and dispersion of contaminants in the nearshore region, thus the understanding of its. mechanism is very important. In the present study, using the electromagnetic current meter, the water particle velocity is measured in the 3-dimensional wave field and Eulerian mean velocity is obtained. At the same time, from the dispersion of tracer, the Lagrangian mean velocity is also obtained. It is observed that the longshore currents were confined within the surf zone and the maximum value of them exists in the surf zone. The longshore currents were considered to be constant toward the depth and we obtained the similar distribution of longshore currents between the measured value and the theoretical ones by Longuet-Higgins model.