• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.71-76
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• 2022

In this study, we investigated the antioxidant activity, wound healing, moisturizing and anti-pollution effects of fermented Citrus junos (FCJ) with Lactobacillus rhamnosus as a cosmetic material. For the anti-oxidative activities, the FCJ showed potent DPPH radical scavenging activities. In addition, FCJ increased cell migration compared to the untreated group in scratch-induced wound healing assay. It was confirmed that the amount of filagrin (FLG), a moisturizing factor, increased in FCJ. FCJ prevented the decrease in cell viability, stimulated by PM₁₀ at in vitro. Based on these results, it is believed that various effects of FCJ can provide a scientific basis for the development of cosmetic raw materials.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.75-82
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• 2012

Natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) are hydrophilic and water-soluble components in stratum corneum of the skin. NMFs absorb water from outer environment and enhance the water-holding capacity of stratum corneum and thereby, prevent the dryness and increase flexibility and plasticity of skin. NMFs are mainly composed of amino acids and their metabolites that are produced from the degradation of filaggrin. Here we established a simultaneous quantification method for 22 amino acids in tape-stripped stratum corneum samples using UPLC-PDA. With this method, we analyzed amino acid contents from tape-stripped stratum corneum samples of forearm and forehead regions from 15 healthy volunteers. Amino acid contents of inner (or upper) region were higher than outer (or lower) region of stratum corneum. Amino acid contents of stratum corneum of forearm were higher by 1.5 fold than forehead region. Of note, total amino acid contents were significantly and inversely correlated with trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), an index for skin barrier function. Especially, Ser, Glu, Gly, Ala and Thr were determined to positively affect skin mositurizing activities. In conclusion, we could demonstrate that amino acid contents of stratum corneum are closely linked with skin barrier and moisturizing function, providing an important and fundamental methodology for the study of amino acids in skin physiology.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.183-192
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• 2023

In this study, we investigated the antioxidant activity, anti-inflammatory activity, whitening, moisturizing, wound-healing, cell proliferation and cell protective effects of 70% EtOH and hot water extract from Scutellaria baicalensis. For the anti-oxidative test, the 70% EtOH and hot water extract showed DPPH radical scavenging activities. In the anti-inflammatory tests, 70% EtOH and hot water extract inhibited the production of NO, pro-inflammatory cytokine (IL-6) and prostaglandin (PGE₂). In addition, it was confirmed that the 70% EtOH and hot water extract inhibited the melanin production, and increased production of hyaluronic acid (HA), a moisturizing factor. As a result of cell migration and proliferation assay, 70% EtOH extract promoted the cell growth in HaCaT cell. Additionally, 70% EtOH and hot water extract showed cell protective effects against UVB, and 70% EtOH extract also showed cell protective effects agianst blue light. Based on these results, it is concluded that the 70% EtOH and hot water extract from Scutellaria baicalensis could be potentially applicable as anti-oxdiative, anti-inflammation, whitening, moisturizing, wound-healing, cell proliferation and cell protective effects in cosmetic natural materials.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.251-257
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• 2021

ln this study, natural extracts extracted from cypress sapiens, a natural material, were investigated as materials that could protect skin aging caused by ultraviolet rays, and experiments were conducted on the synthesis of filaggrins that make up the natural moisturizing factor of the skin, the synthesis of pro-colagen, a fibrous protein, which plays an important role in moisturizing the dermis, and elastin, which is an enzyme that decomposes collagen. As a result, cypress ethanol extract (COE) was a dependent inhibitor to collagenase and elastase, inhibiting the synthesis of filaggrin and the expression of MMP-1 for exfoliated cells damaged by ultraviolet rays. Therefore, it is estimated that ethanol extract will have the effect of delaying wrinkles and as a functional cosmetic material that inhibits skin aging convergence. Based on this study, we would like to further study the mechanism of the synthesis of filaggrin on the suppression of expression of MMP, which is the anti-wrinkle effect.

• Preventive Nutrition and Food Science
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.15-21
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• 2015

The skin plays a key role in protecting the body from the environment and from water loss. Cornified envelope (CE) and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) are considered as the primary regulators of skin hydration and barrier function. The CE prevents loss of water from the body and is formed by cross-linking of several proteins. Among these proteins, filaggrin is an important protein because NMF is produced by the degradation of filaggrin. Proteases, including matriptase and prostasin, stimulate the generation of filaggrin from profilaggrin and caspase-14 plays a role in the degradation of filaggrin. This study elucidated the effects of an ethanol extract of Boesenbergia pandurata (Roxb.) Schltr., known as fingerroot, and its active compound panduratin A on CE formation and filaggrin processing in HaCaT, human epidermal keratinocytes. B. pandurata extract (BPE) and panduratin A significantly stimulated not only CE formation but also the expression of CE proteins, such as loricrin, involucrin, and transglutaminase, which were associated with $PPAR{\alpha}$ expression. The mRNA and protein levels of filaggrin and filaggrin-related enzymes, such as matriptase, prostasin, and caspase-14 were also up-regulated by BPE and panduratin A treatment. These results suggest that BPE and panduratin A are potential nutraceuticals which can enhance skin hydration and barrier function based on their CE formation and filaggrin processing.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.113-124
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• 2019

The purpose of the study was to investigate the effects of sea cucumber extract on skin as a natural cosmetics functional material. Subjective evaluation of cosmetics before and after were conducted with questionnaires regarding moisture content, sebum content, melanin index, and erythema index. Experiments were conducted on improvement efficacy using skin clinical trials and questionnaires to evaluate changes in perception of skin condition and efficiency of products. With the aim of minimizing skin irritation, the efficiency of the solvent used for extraction was an important factor, and the sea cucumber extract was harvested with efficient extraction conditions at a ratio of 1:10 of 50% ethanol. The study aimed to identify the suitability of sea cucumber extract as a functional cosmetics material to improve the moisturizing ability of skin and its effect on the skin by adding marine natural animal sea cucumber extract. Clinical studies on cosmetics skin containing sea cucumber extract, excellent skin improvement effect from all items of clinical experiment in experimental and control groups. Sea cucumber extract was proved to be a stable, non-adverse physiologically active substance against abnormal symptoms or side effects of skin reactions and skin problems. In addition, the study found excellent results that can lead to its use as a cosmetics material. This is expected to contribute to the development of various cosmetics industries.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.343-349
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• 2016

Many minerals and nutrient salts are abundant in Jeju lava sea water. The objective of this study was to evaluate the skin hydration effects of Jeju lava sea water. The skin barrier serves as a protective barrier that prevents the loss of moisture. The water holding capacity and water transport of the epidermis have been proposed to be important determinants of skin hydration. Jeju lava sea water increased the mRNA expression of filaggrin and caspase-14 which is related to natural moisturizing factor (NMF) formation. Aquaporins 3 (AQP3) are proteins that facilitate the transport of water across cell membranes. Jeju lava sea water increased the mRNA expression and protein expression of AQP3. We employed a skin equivalent model to assess the efficacy of Jeju lava sea water. In a skin equivalent model, Jeju lava sea water increased the CD44 (hyaluronic acid receptor) which is related to skin hydration. From these results, we found out Jeju lava sea water maybe help to skin hydration.

• Journal of Nutrition and Health
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• v.39 no.6
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• pp.520-528
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• 2006

Free amino acids in epidermis function as a major component of Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), which maintains the optimal level of water in skin even at the low humidity. In fact, the depletion of free amino acids is reported in the epidermis of atopic dermatitis, the skin condition involving dryness. As an effort searching the dietary source for improving the level of water and free amino acid in epidermis, the dietary effects of silk protein, sericin (S) and fibroin (F) on trans epidermal water loss (TEWL), and plasma and epidermal levels of free amino acids were compared in this study. Thirty of male NC/Nga mice, an animal model of atopic dermatitis, were divided into three groups: group CA as an atopic control with control diet, group S: 1% sericin diet and group F: 1% fibroin diet. Ten of male BALB/c mice were served as group C (control group) with control diet. All mice were fed on diet and water ad libitum for 10weeks. Dry skin condition was established in group CA as TEWL was increased (148.7% of group C). In parallel, epidermal level of glutamate, one of major amino acids functioning as NMF, was dramatically decreased and epidermal levels of methionine and alanine were inversely elevated. Dietary supplementation of sericin (group S) reduced TEWL at the similar level with group C and increased epidermal levels of glutamate as well as serine and glycine, the other major amino acids as NMF. Despite a marked decrease of methionine and alanine, the reduction of TEWL and epidermal levels of glutamate, serine and glycine of group F were less than of group S. Furthermore, in contrast to similar levels of other free amino acids in plasma and epidermis of group S and group C, plasma and epidermal levels of other free amino acids, specifically phenylalanine, isoleucine, cysteine and tyrosine in epidermis of group F, were significantly higher than of group C. Together, our data demonstrate that dietary supplementation of sericin is more effective at improving dry skin condition that paralleled with the normalization of free amino acids in plasma and epidermis of NC/Nga mice.

• Journal of Nutrition and Health
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• v.49 no.5
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• pp.269-276
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• 2016

Purpose: Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation decreases epidermal hydration, which is maintained by reduction of natural moisturizing factors (NMFs). Among various NMFs, free amino acids (AA) are major constituents generated by filaggrin degradation. This experiment was conducted to determine whether or not dietary supplementation of green tea extract (GTE) in UV-irradiated mice can improve epidermal levels of hydration, filaggrin, free AAs, and peptidylarginine deiminase-3 (PAD3) expression (an enzyme involved in filaggrin degradation). Methods: Hairless mice were fed a diet of 1% GTE for 10 weeks in parallel with UV irradiation (group UV+1%GTE). As controls, hairless mice were fed a control diet in parallel with (group UV+) or without (group UV-) UV irradiation. Results: In group UV+, epidermal levels of hydration and filaggrin were lower than those in group UV-; these levels increased in group UV+1% GTE to levels similar to group UV-. Epidermal levels of PAD3 and major AAs of NMF, alanine, glycine and serine were similar in groups UV- and UV+, whereas these levels highly increased in group UV+1% GTE. Conclusion: Dietary GTE improves epidermal hydration by filaggrin generation and degradation into AAs.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.1
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• pp.87-96
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• 2023

This study was conducted to discover substances that regulate skin surface acidification using human epidermal keratinocyte cell lines, and to investigate their effects on the moisturizing ability and skin barrier function of the stratum corneum. Prunella vulgaris (P. vulgaris) is an herb widely distributed in Northwest Africa and North America that has been studied for its anti-apoptotic, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects. However, research on the regulation of NHE1 expression and the restoration of skin barrier function has not been conducted. Analysis of P. vulgaris revealed the presence of rosmarinic acid and caffeic acid as active ingredients, which were tested for toxicity in human epidermal keratinocyte cell lines (HaCaT), and showed no toxic effects were observed at high concentarion (100 ㎍/mL or 100 µM). It is known that sodium-hydrogen ion exchange pumps (NHE1) decrease in expression in aging skin to maintain the acidic pH of the stratum corneum, and it is hypothesized that this decrease plays an important role in the impaired restoration of skin barrier function in aging skin. P. vulgaris extract and caffeic acid increased the expression of NHE1 in keratinocytes, increased the expression of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) precursor filaggrin and ceramide synthesis enzyme serine palmitoyl transferase (SPT). In addition, P. vulgaris and caffeic acid decreased the extracellular pH of keratinocytes, indicating a direct effect on skin pH regulation. Taken together, these results suggest that P. vulgaris and caffeic acid can regulate skin pH through NHE1 modulation, and may help to restore skin barrier function by increasing NMF and ceramide synthesis. These results show the possibility that honeysuckle and caffeic acid can have a positive effect on skin health, and can be the basis for the development of new skin protection products using them.