• Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.312-321
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• 2018

Recently, consumer demand for functional cosmetics containing natural ingredients has been greatly expanded. To develop the natural cosmetic materials, we selected 3 plants, Chrysanthemum zawadskii Herbich (CZ), Perilla frutescens (L.) Britton var. acuta Kudo (PF), and Rosa multiflora Thunberg (RM) which showed high total flavonoid contents (TFC), total polyphenol contents (TPC), and strong DPPH radical scavenging effect. We determined astragalin, chlorogenic acid, and rosmarinic acid as a marker compound for quantitative analysis of the content of each material and standardization of the quality standards and manufacturing standards through LC/MS analysis. HPLC-DAD was used to simultaneously analyze these marker components of three natural product complexes (Mix) and to validate the analytical method through experiments such as linearity, accuracy and precision. The detection wavelengths were set at 210, 265, and 330 nm. The detected 3 compounds from extract of CZ, PF, RM showed significant linearity ($R^2${\geq_-}$0.9947). The limit of detection (LOD) of chlorogenic acid, astragalin and rosmarinic acid were $8.29{\mu}g/ml$, $2.28{\mu}g/ml$, and $27.00{\mu}g/ml$, respectively. The limit of quantification (LOQ) of chlorogenic acid, astragalin and rosmarinic acid were $25.11{\mu}g/ml$, $6.92{\mu}g/ml$, and $81.83{\mu}g/ml$, respectively. The contents of the three indicators of Mix were 19.82-24.71 mg/g of chlorogenic acid, 43.80-46.02 mg/g of astragalin, and 46.33-48.57 mg/g of rosmarinic acid.

• Journal of the Korean Chemical Society
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• v.67 no.2
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• pp.137-144
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• 2023

In this study were evaluated the whitening and anti-oxidative activities from the extracts of Sorbus alnifolia branches, and identified the chemical structures of the active ingredients. In the whitening tests using α-MSH stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells, the 70% ethanol extract and n-butanol (n-BuOH) fractions concentration-dependently inhibited cellular melanogenesis and intracellular tyrosinase activities without causing cell toxicity. The total polyphenol content of n-BuOH and ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fractions were measured to be respectively 241.1 ± 1.1 and 222.9 ± 2.4 (mg/g GAE), and the total flavonoid content of EtOAc fraction was 75.3 ± 2.0 (mg/g QE). Upon anti-oxidant studies with DPPH and ABTS⁺ radicals, potent radical scavenging activities were observed in the EtOAc and n-BuOH fractions. Moreover, in the study of cell protection efficacy using HaCaT keratinocytes damaged by H₂O₂, the EtOAc and n-BuOH fractions showed a very positive results on prevention of oxidative stress. Phytochemical studies for this extract resulted in the isolation of four compounds; 2-oxopomolic acid (1), euscaphic acid (2), epi-catechin (3), prunasin (4). These results suggested that the extract of S. alnifolia branches containing compounds 1-4 as natural ingredients could be used as whitening and anti-oxidant ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.820-829
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• 2003

One of the important function of skin is the protection from harmful environments. Many studies were carried out to keep the skin from wrinkling and pigmenting. Skin wrinkle and pigmentation could be caused' by the unusual disruption of connective tissue, the formation of free radicals and the radiation of ultraviolet. In this study, the extracts obtained from 23 different kinds of medicinal plants were examined whether they have inhibitory effect on tyrosinase and elastase as well as free radical scavenging effect. All the extracts examined were obtained by using 70% (v/v) ethanol at $60^{\circ}C$. It has been found that there were two medicinal plants which have positive effects matching with the purpose of this study. The extract of Ephedra sinica stapf shows an inhibitory effect on tyrosinase ($IC_{50}$ = 83.7~$\mu\textrm{g}$/ml), on elastase ($IC_{50}$ = $690{\mu}\textrm{g}$/ml), and also shows free radical scavenging effect ($IC_{50}$ = 29.6$\mu\textrm{g}$/ml). The extract of Betula platyphylla Var. shows an inhibitory effect on elastase ($IC_{50}$ = 498.1$\mu\textrm{g}$/ml), and free radical scavenging effect ($IC_{50}$ = 9$\mu\textrm{g}$/ ml). The aim of the study is to find the natural compounds which have function in skin-lightening, anti-wrinkling and anti-oxidation, with safe and active ingredients in cosmetic.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.167-174
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• 2010

The hair nourisher products are used for prevention of hair loss and classified as quasi-drug in Korea. As concerns about hair loss has been increased, the demand for hair nourisher products has been growing. It is difficult to analyze their main ingredients because they contain various ingredients including natural plant extracts, vitamins, preservatives and exfoliators. The purpose of this study was to develop and validate simultaneous analytical methods of active ingredients in hair nourisher products such as nicotinamide, tocopherol, salicylic acid, dexpanthenol and benzyl nicotinate by HPLC. The active ingredients were separated on a $C_{18}$ column by using acetonitrile/phosphate buffer as a mobile phase, and detected at UV 220, 270 and 300 nm. The calibration curve showed linearity in the range of $12.5{\sim}800\;{\mu}g/mL$ and the recoveries were 97.3 ~ 103.5 % (RSD 0.9 ~ 2.8 %) in liquid matrix and 101.9 ~ 115.9 % (RSD 0.7 ~ 7.7 %) in shampoo matrix. Validated method was applied to hair nourisher products obtained from distribution market. Fortunately, all samples met their criteria. This study might be expected to provide the method for determining active ingredients in hair nourisher products and lead to promote a rapid market entry.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.73-78
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• 2005

This work was carried out to investigate the antioxidative effects of Acanthopnax sessiliflorus from Jeongseon County for the purpose of development of a novel antioxidant from natural products. The antioxidant activity was determined by using electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR), not measuring the radical scavenging effect on 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) which have bun used for antioxidant activity of natural sources. Although DPPH radical scavenging activity assay have been generally used for antioxidant activity, this assay is nut appropriated for determinating which radical is scavenged by extracts from natural products. Using EPR, we determinated whether A. sessiliflorus extracts from Jeongseon County scavenge specific radicals or not. On experiment of scavenging superoxide anion radical, hydroxyl radical, nitrogen dioxide and peroxinitrite. Extracts from A. sessiliflorus showed high antioxidant activities to reactive oxygen and nitrogen species. These result suggest that extracts from A. sessiliflorus act as an antioxidant by scavenging reactive oxygen and nitrogen species and used as new cosmetic ingredients for anti-oxidative stress in skin.

• Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.244-250
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• 2004

Biological activities and application of Sanguisorbae officinalis L. were investigated. In the enzymological physiological activities, the electron donating ability (EDA) was 54.9% in 10 ppm and it was over 90% over 50 ppm and SOD-like activity was high as 65.4% in 1000 ppm, it was gradual increased. As inhibitory effect of xanthine oxidase, it was 17.9% in 200 ppm and little low as 36.9% in 500 ppm and inhibitory effect of tyrosinase. As the result of measuring the lipid oxidation, all the concentrations of medical ion treatments had the ability to keep it from acidification and metal ion blocking effects about the lipid oxidation promoting factors ($Fe^{2+}$ and $Cu^{2+}$), $Fe^{2+}$ was better than $Cu^{2+}$ and all concentrations of medical ion treatments was 40% in 50 ppm. When it was applied into normal skin-softener it showed safe effect so that we can expect that as the natural material of cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.193-202
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• 2009

This study was done to assess an alternative method as a replacement of in vivo phototoxicity test. The human fibroblasts were exposed to several phototoxic chemicals (promethazine, chlorpromazine chlortetracycline, 8-methoxypsoralen, neutral red, bithionol) and non-phototoxic materials (cinnamic aldehyde, p-aminobenzoic acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, L-cysteine). The cell viability was measured by neutral red uptake (NRU) assay. The results of the NRU phototoxicity (PT) assay showed a close agreement with in vivo test except bithionol. We also have tested the cosmetic ingredients including $Medimin^{(R)}$ A, $Medimin^{(R)}$ D, $LG^{(R)}$ 106W, $Phytoclear^{(R)}$ EL-1, Carex humilis L. extract, Canna indica L. extract, Salvia miltiorrhira Bunge extract, $Parsol^{(R)}$ MCX and $Parsol^{(R)}$ 1789. Most materials except Salvia miltiorrhira Bunge extract did not show any phototoxicity.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.326-329
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• 2015

This study is to develop the double capsulation technology in order to increase the conservativeness and stability of unstable materials such as vitamins, polyphenols, natural active ingredients. And also, best way of triple matrix capsulation using natural polymers were detail described. As the first capsulation with w/o/w (water-in-oil-in-water) emulsifying system, our study group was especially made to soft and moisture cream using 5wt% of sucrose ester emulsifier as first capsulation. Nutrient agents are squalane, camellia oil. Triple matrix capsulation was formed with the best stabilized bead type capsules when it blended of chitosan, algin, sodium-potassium alginate. The bead diameter size was about 2.0~4.5mm (mean diameter: 3.2mm). Activity of lactobacillus containing cream for depending on various pH variations showed that alkalinity ($pH=10.8{\pm}0.5$) condition was higher than acidity ($pH=4.2{\pm}0.2$) and neutrality ($pH=7.1{\pm}0.3$) conditions. After a month, it also was certified to the activity of lactobacillus in incubated at $37{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ in culture medium. As application of food industry, we developed the containing lactobacillus capsule and 7 colored kinds of double and triple matrix capsulation in yogurt cream and active ingredients. As for above mentioned those results, one of tool to stabilize the living lactobacillus, doubled matrix capsulation greatly be expected to contribute to food industry. Furthermore, it can be expected to apply the drug delivery system (DDS) to active ingredients of stabilizing technologies at drug, pharmaceutical division and cosmetic industry, etc.

• Quantitative Bio-Science
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.103-111
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• 2018

This study was performed to investigate the cytoprotective effects of Stachys riederi var. japonica ethanol extract (SREE) to control oxidative stress induced by UVA-irradiation by examining antioxidant capacity and gene expression of cytochrome c using human dermal fibroblasts. The total polyphenolics and flavonoids in the SREE were 41.2 and 25.4 mg/g, respectively. At concentrations of 500 and $1000{\mu}g/mL$, the electron-donating ability of SREE was 48.6% and 82.0%, respectively, and the 2,2'-azino-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging activity was 62.3% and 78.8%, respectively. These findings showed that SREE has a fairly good antioxidant capacity. As determined by an MTT assay, the maximum permissible level for treating SREE to human dermal fibroblasts was shown to be over $200{\mu}g/mL$. SREE ($200{\mu}g/mL$) significantly decreased cytochrome c mRNA and protein expression by 31.1% (p<0.001) and 38.8% (p<0.01), respectively. These findings suggest that SREE may protect human skin cells against mitochondrial-dependent apoptosis. Therefore, SREE seems to be a natural antioxidant to protect cells against oxidative stress induced by UVA-irradiation.

• The Korea Journal of Herbology
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.27-33
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• 2005

Objectives : This is the study of the application as the ingredients of cosmetics through the examination of the function for physiological activity of Chestnut inner shell. Methods : Chestnut inner shell, which had been extracted, concentrated, and freeze drying with water and ethanol, have been used for the experiment. The effects on electronic donating ability, SOD-like activity, xanthine oxidase inhibition, whitening effect, nitric oxide inhibition have been investigated in the physiological activity measurement of function experiment. Results : We used BHA and kogic acid for the comparative. As a result of testing electron donating ability, at over 100ppm of water extract and ethanol extract, BHA showed relatively high donating ability by more than 90%. And as a result of measuring SOD like activity, 1000ppm of water extract showed an effect of 30% and ethanol extract showed an effect of 40%, BHA showed an effect of 30%. In the xanthine oxidase inhibition test, 1000ppm of water extract showed an effect of 70% and ethanol extract showed an effect of 63%, BHA showed an effect of 100%. In the tyrosinase inhibition test, 1000ppm of water extract showed an effect of 55% and ethanol extract showed an effect of 87%, Kogic acid showed an effect of 98%. In the anti-inflammatory test, the water extract and ethanol extract inhibited the generation of nitric oxide. Conclusions : The results indicated that extract of Chestnut inner shell can be used as a natural ingredients with biological function in cosmetics ingredients.