• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.159-179
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• 2006

This research checked about the necessity for the development of men's dress forms in the first investigation for the educational circle and the men's wear industry. Somatotype characteristics were analyzed in the second investigation of body measurement with the subjects of 200 male adults in their twenties residing in Busan. The following are the results of the present research to develop male dress forms for patternmaking: 1. In the group analysis for the characterization of front body types, three somatotypes were found and named H, Semi X, and Y. In the cluster analysis of side body types, four types were identified: D, I, d, and q. In the combination of front and lateral body types, four kinds were chosen: semi X-I, semi X-q, semi Y-I, and Y-q. 2. Through the comparison of plane figures by the plaster method as well as horizontal and vertical cross sections by the sliding gauge method, semi X-I was finally chosen as the standard somatotype for male dress form development. 3. Compared with the sliding gauge method of the present dress forms, the research dress form reflected better the shapes of the parts of the back and hips and the position of the waist, especially for males in their 20's. In addition, the dress form in the current research had superior points in all the items of clothing evaluation. Based on the above results, the sizes and models of the men's dress forms for patternmaking were developed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.41-57
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• 2006

The purpose of this study were to provide dress forms and men's jacket blocks based on the analysis of their somatotype. As the result of the previous research, based on 1290 males of 20 to 54 year-old, the shapes of adult male were 20 and each body shape was classified by size factor, height and chest girth and master size was selected considering appearance frequency. Somatotype YS(master size: height 170cm, chest girth 91cm) and HD1(master size: height 170cm, chest girth 94cm) were selected to develop dress forms and men's jacket block in the study. The procedure and results were follows; 1. The dress forms of somatotype YS and HD1 were provide base on means of 61 body measurements and cross sections of shoulder, chest, waist, hip of subjects belong to each somatotype. 2. New men's jacket blocks of somatotype YS and HD1 were developed based on the body surface extracted by draping and the result of comparative investigation on the conventional jacket patterns by wearing test. Also the drafting methods of new men's jacket blocks were provided. 3. Wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that the developed jacket blocks were estimated more highly than existing patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.8
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• pp.177-198
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• 2000

The major purpose of this study is to obtain the evident and visual data about the changes of Korean dress with a socio-cultural context through dress depicted in the Korean films since the 1960s. For this purpose, after were Korean socio-cultural background including the history of Korean films and mass fashion trends reviewed, total fifteen Korean films by ten year were selected on the basis of contemporaneity popularity, and fashionability, and analyzed with the data reviewed before. And the results can be summarized as follows : Dress in the Korean films of the 1960s shows sporty casual took influenced by western style, with the popularity of young fashion and youth film. The typical styles are sac dress and mini skirt fur women, and suit with American silhouette for men. Unisex mode including slim T-shirts and blue jeans with European silhouette supt appears mainly in the Korean films of the 1970s, with the change of sex roles and mass fashion trend. Dress in the Korean films of the 1980s is characterized by bold silhouette and decorative details. with the boom of erotic metro-drama and luxurious fashion trend, such as padded jacket, X silhouette ensemble, brig look coat for women, and American style suit for men. Dress in the Korean films of the 1990s shows the rapid cycle of fashion with the increase of casual wear, reflecting the popularity of romantic comedy film and various socio-cultural circumstances. As a result, the current of dress depleted in the Korean films since the 1960s is summarized as the cycle of fashion accelerated, the similarity between men's and women's wear, and the increase of sporty casual wear. Also, dress in the films reflects effectively the socio-cultural context related to fashion except for especially emphasizing characters in films.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.157-169
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• 2012

The aim of this study is to serve as a stepping stone to outlook changes in men's fashion based on gender characteristics and the design proposal as a reference to shirts design for men's wear brands. This study is a theoretical work extracted from related books, dissertations, and web- resources referenced. Research method is as followed. It is based on the four main collections from S/S 2001 to S/S 2010 and selected designer brands among the most influential foreign men's fashion designer brands which have show cased their collections of 19 seasons in the last 10 years. These are what the study has found out. Firstly, the shoulder-line which used to be straight and hard in men's dress shirt has changed to comfortable curved line which falls from the shoulder to sleeve. Silhouettes were mainly shaped to an hourglass or slim silhouette representing the body curve line. Unlike how the masculine beauty was emphasized through the straight line, men's dress shirts nowadays used curved line for softness. Secondly, there were various designs with decorations added to the basic structure, making it no different from women's blouse and blurring the line between men's and women's fashion. Thirdly, colors were normally in bright ones. Tones were often in pale tone which used to be the women's color. Also choosing shades of yellow or red was a remarkable change in men's wear. Fourthly, through varying patterns and texture there were many shirts that gave clear visual effect. There were approximately equal portions of patterns with feminine image like natural patterns, abstract patterns, or small patterns and patterns with masculine image.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.46-55
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• 1999

This research, as a study of the documentary records, examined the process of men\`s wear development year by year, looking into the newspapers which show objectively social phenomena in those days. The outcomes therefrom were classified according to the important factors of dress and ornaments\` modeling i. e. style, color, pattern, material, ornamentation method. And then, the process of men\`s wear transition was analyzed based on the aforesaid examination with its classification. The above analyses revealed that a transition of a dress and ornaments closely correlates with a social and cultural change and also meant that the dress and ornaments symbolizes the social phenomena in those days. Thanks to the holding of Seoul Olympic Games in 1988, Korean society had tremendously grown with rapid changes in its politics, economy and culture. Also, men\`s wear type became innovative, breaking from the existing orthodox one due to the transition of men\`s viewpoints on value and their lives\` style.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.131-136
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• 2001

Men's dress shoe was made from Steer-finished leather manufactured by this study. Men's dress shoe applied by the cementing method in KS G 3116 and used by the chloroprene adhesive has been evaluated. For the qualify test of adhesive for Oxford using chloroprene adhesive, duration for environmental exposure was tested. Also, the quality test result of chloroprene adhesive, which had been applied to men's dress shoe as well as ladies' dress shoe, was better than expected. In case of adhesion-strength measurement. the KS G 3116 method of peel strength at the end of toe was found to be resonable compared to our measurement method through toe to heel seat on feather edge.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.65-80
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• 1999

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China. The Results of the study are as follows. 1. In the Past, Derung's dress was very simple due to the influence of various factors, such as geography and history. Men wore shorts and covered diagonally a piece of cloth from left shoulders to right armpits and tied up the two ends on chests. Women covered crisscross two pieces of cloth from both shoulders to knee. 2. Achang people's dress and adornment has its own unique characteristic. Generally, men wear Jackets with buttons down the front and black trousers. Unmarried men like to wear white turbans, while most of married men usually wear dark blue ones. Women usually wear tight-sleeve blouses with buttons down the front and skirts. Unmarried women wear the hair in braids coil them on the top of their heads. They wear short blouses and trousers. Married women wear their hair Into buns and like to entwine black or blue cloth into high trubans. They wear short blouses and knee-length straight skirts. Achang knife enjoys high reputation and has a long history and an exquisite workmanship. All the men like to wear it. 3. The dress and adornment of the Lahu nationality has both the characteristic of farming culture and the style of nomadic culture of early times. Men usually wear short shirts with round necks and buttons down the front, loose-legged trousers, turbans or dark blue cloth caps Women's dress and adornment can be categorized into two styles. One is black cloth gown with buttons diagonally on the right front and waist-length slits on both sides. The edges of fronts and cuffs are edged with Silver ornaments and lace. They also wear trousers. The other is short blouse with round neck and short opening on th right front, straight skirt and colourful leggings with embroidered patterns. 4. The Hani people, men and women, old and young, like black colour and are fond of wearing black clothes. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front and trousers, entwining their heads with black or white cloth. The elderly people wear calottes. Women wear cloth blouses, skirts and trousers or shorts. Slight differences exist in the clothing and adornments according to region, branch and age 5. Blang people's dyeing technique with an exquisite method has a long history. Men wear dark blue long sleeve shirts with round necks and buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. Elderly men wear big turbans wdress and adornment varies greatly in different regions. 6. The Lisu people culture of dress and adornment has some unique characteristics. The styles and colours of their dress and adornment differ slightly from place to place. In the Nujiang area, Women wear black velvet Jackets over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and long pleated ramie skirts. Men usually wear wraparound ramie gowns, with center vent, made of fabrics alternated with white and black cross stripes. They also wear cloth waistbands and trohile youngsters keep their hair short. Women's users. In the Lushui area, the dress and adornment is similar to that in the Nujing region, but women wear aprons and trousers instead of skirts. 7. The Nu people dress and adornment is simple but elegant Women are proficient in ramie-weaving. Men usually wear gowns With overlapping necks, knee-length trousers and leggings. They like to wear their hair long and entwine dark blue or white turbans. Women wear black and red vests over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and ankle-length skirts. They also wear their hair long, make it into braids, and entwine dark blue or colourful cloth turbans. 8. Pumi men usually wear ramie shirts With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front, loose trousers and white sheepskin vests. Some also wear overcoats made of "pulu". Women's dress and adornment varies in different areas. In the Lanping and Weixi regions, women wear white short blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front and dark brown embroidered vests. They also wear trousers and blue or black cloth turbans. In the Ninglang and Yongsheng regions, women wear hemmed blouses With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and drape sheepskin capes. They also wear white pleated skirts and use broad colourful cloth as their waistbands.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.983-991
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to provide basic reference data for the development of slim-fit dress shirts patterns for a variety of body somatotypes. For this study, a survey was conducted on the actual product conditions of slim-fit dress shirts of domestic brands(Actual wearing and purchasing conditions, fit, design preferences). The survey was conducted on 135 men in their 20s~30s. PASW Statistics 18 was used for data analysis. The result of this study are as follows : Analysis of the actual wearing conditions of dress shirts indicates that consumers own an average of 1~2 classic-fit shirts and 1~4 slim-fit shirts. These are normally worn once or twice a week, and purchased mainly at department stores, agencies, direct sales markets or outlets. With respect to the purchasing factors, price and style were the main priorities. Surveyed consumers had the greatest preference for designs with a non-darted front and a darted back, a semi-wide collar and the color white. By classifying the surveyed by somatotype, Type B preferred designs darted on both front and back, Type A preferred designs with a non-darted front and a darted back, while Type Y preferred designs non-darted on both front and back. All somatotypes displayed a preference for semi-wide collars and the color white.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.91-103
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• 2014

Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.3
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• pp.47-61
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• 2015

Dress functions as a clear boundary between gender differences In the past. However dress in the 21st century, due to movement of feminism during the 1960's, advance of mass media and the influence of postmodernism, the boundary of gender differences has been blurred. Especially in men's fashion, where there was no little changes in traditional menswear, it is noteworthy that there appears some changes. The research about gender has developed to queer theory, subjected on gender itself, founded on the gender diversity. The purpose of the study is to conduct the implied meanings of dress in contemporary society, when gender diversity has been expressed in men's fashion, and to review the characteristics of contemporary men's fashion through the collections and advertisements of post 2000's as well as internet sites. This research is based on theory of Judith Butler, which is on the center of feminism and queer theory. Homosexual expressions which are presented in male clothing and advertisement produce rejection of the dichotomous view of gender concept and allowing of individual gender identity expression.