• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.31-41
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• 2013

By researching Western equestrian clothing, this study investigated the process in which styles of menswear are introduced into women's sportswear. In addition to women's equestrian clothing shown in paintings and illustrations kept in overseas museums, this study also analyzed books addressing 200 years of Western dress style history, from the late $17^{th}$ century to the $19^{th}$ century. The analysis data present the design characteristics of women's equestrian clothing according to different periods. A total of 21 works were used as research data: two from periods prior to the $17^{th}$ century, three from the $17^{th}$ century, ten from the $18^{th}$ century, and six from the $19^{th}$ century. The research results show that items of trendy menswear were commonly used in women's equestrian clothing during the late $17^{th}$ century - to be specific, in all forms of clothing worn on the upper body, including coat and cravat, tricomhat, and accessories. Women's equestrian clothing after the $18^{th}$ century took the form of menswear. However, the uniform was also generally worn with a fitted, tailored redingote on top of the robe, along with pants. In the $19^{th}$ century, women's equestrian clothing became longer in length, like men's styles. The uniform gradually lost volume, and the jacket became shorter and narrower. In addition, the drawers were replaced with pants that came down to the ankles, which were similar to men's trousers. Breeches also became knee - length, thus following the style of menswear. These results show that women's equestrian clothing, worn during horseback riding, a sport previously enjoyed by Western aristocrats, were similar to what men wore. Also, in contrast to the distinct differences seen between men's and women's daily clothing, the equestrian uniforms of women showed a tendency to follow the clothing style of men.

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.113-125
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• 2015

The purpose of this paper is to study the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$, a floral decoration, history of $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$, a floral decoration, with a focus on its aesthetics, its practical use and its traditional meaning. After the examination of its history, the paper, recreated the proceeds by taking into consideration both the contemporary men's fashion, as well as the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ designs of the past. The three factors of contemporary $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ design, in brief, are its historical meaning, the visual aesthetics and the wearability. In this paper, the research and design steps are as followed below. First, the paper examined the history of men's fashion leading up to the twenty-first century in order to get a deeper understanding of the history of $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$. Second, the paper attempted to find the most suitable fabric materials and flowers for the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$, in order to produce diverse $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ that can be worn in any season and occasion. As for the fabrics that can be used to make the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$, organza can be used for the S/S season, and wool, tweed and suede can be used for the F/W season. The major characteristics that differentiate the kinds of $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ are the "Carnation" and the "Rose of Sharon". The 'Rose of Sharon' $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ as the symbol of our nation possesses an intricate meaning and practical function, so that this $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ is used as an alternative badge of the national assembly and other social-national institutions and their members. This idea expands into other social and individual features that the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ is a differentiated fashion item that provides other personal styles and expresses individuality.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.93-109
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to examine the modern men's fashion coordination to see the image in the center of TV dramas in terms of Habitu that is formed within hierarchy and class. The subjects range is included fashion style, color, accessories, hairstyle and appearance. 950 pictures used in the analysis sheet. In research methods, content analysis and basic statistics were used. The results of this study were as follows. First, the hierarchy image formed by Habitus is significant difference. The upper layer is coordinating elite luxurious and prestigious image of the fashion styles. The middle layer is coordinating neat and capable image. The lower layer does not care about the appearance and image appearing weary life is coordinating. Second, the class image formed by Habitus, CEO often interests in fashion image coordination. Senior executive is represented clean and luxurious image. General white color dresses in a suite such as office look. Blue color does not care about the fashion coordination and is expressed an easy dress for labor. Architects of the unstructured free-spirited image is represented. Physician and resident physician dress in shirts, no pattern tie, pants, robe. And they is coordinating neat and tidy attire to represent professional and reliable image.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.35-49
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• 2010

The Imwon Sipyukji of this study was compiled by Seo Yugu (1764~1845), a famous agronomical scholar of the late eighteenth century. The contents of this book are divided into sixteen chapters related to all the important parts of rural home life ranging from daily routines to social life covering the agro-industry and the six skills of manners, music, archery, calligraphy, mathematics and horseback riding. Seomyongji, one of the sixteen chapters, covers all that is necessary for living a rural existence such as house-building, clothing adornments and transportation as well as how to make and use daily household items. The contents of the Boksik Jigu sub-section in the Sumyongji chapter consist of eight large units covering men's and women's clothing, bedding and pillows, sewing tools, belt and shoes accompanying the attire and storage for clothes. These eight are further subdivided into 65 items, each warranting a detailed explanation. My study will translate the original Chinese text of Boksik Jigu into Korean. This sub-section in the Seomyongji chapter will facilitate an investigation into the information contained therein on attire and accessories.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권6호
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• pp.893-912
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• 2017

Crowdsourcing models in which organizaions obtain needed product ideas and services from a crowd in a network-based society are rising as a global industry trend. The purpose of this study was to figure out the types and characteristics of crowdsourcing design shown in the domestic fashion brands, and to provide implications for design strategies using crowdsourcing. This study was based on qualitative research which was brand case studies on crowdsourcing design in the fashion industry from January 2006 to July 2017. Also, quantitative analysis using frequency and percentage was applied. The results were as follows: First, crowdsourcing design was used in almost all types of fashion brands, such as sports and outdoor wear, men's wear, women's wear, men's and women's casual wear, shoes, bags, school uniforms, jeans, accessories, etc. Crowdsourcing design in the fashion industry was classified into three types: crowdsourcing graphics and artwork; crowdsourcing customized designs; and crowdsourcing product designs. Of the three types, crowdsourcing graphics and artwork was used most. There were four methods to choose the best crowsourced design: review only by experts, voting by crowd and review by experts, crowdvoting, and crowdfunding. Second, the characteristics of crowdsourcing design were openness, participation, reward and acknowledgement, sharing and interaction, and individualized collective intelligence. Crowdsourcing design could be used as an open innovation strategy in the fashion industry, which could collect new and creative design ideas for product development, resulting in the satisfaction of consumers and benefitting the company.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권1호
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• pp.23-34
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to spread the public recognition for the style of Islamic dress has been ignorantly left and provide this as the basic data for Islamic fashion design. This treatise restricts the Islamic scope into the southeast Asia and confuted the study referring to Islam related books, treatise, domestic and foreign fashion magazines as well as newspaper articles, Internet and screen materials. The study results are as follows: Commonly Islam as a term of religious scope means complex cultural body based on Islam. 1. The Islamic social and cultural images were categorized as (1) conservative and sexual (2) simple, static, decorative and rhythmical (3) dark, violent, bright and amusing image. 2. Islamic nations' style of dress was characterized (1) surface decorative dress (2) practical outer garment (3) trousers style. 3. Both men and women basically put on trousers in children's stories and animations. In case of women, they wear skirts and according a social standing, tunic and caftan style jackets. As for men and women, Dey both wear turbans or chadors but in particular, wealthy classes put on a distinguishable turbans and chadors with splendid accessories. 4. The characteristics of Islamic fashion are lace decoration around a sleeve and the waist or blouse and harem pants with a elastic cord. In addition, they are splendid necklace and ring earings looking old, accessories with big pendants and dragging belts. These examples are shown in collections and streets.

• 복식
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• 제66권8호
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• pp.157-172
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• 2016

This study aims to present findings of historical design trends of men's fashion, and the characteristics of changes in the types of overcoats and mid jackets shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. The primary data sources for this study comprised one pattern book, each of the17th and 18th century, and 15 pattern books of the 19th century, all of which are conserved by the French National Library. The study methods are as follows: First, analysis of men's fashion trends and the characteristics of changes by type as shown in French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Second, analysis of the evolution of type of men's overcoats and top-exterior- and-interior (outside) styles shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. As a result, a total of 69 type references were collected from French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Historically, men's fashion was largely classified into top-exterior, top-exterior-and-interior, top-interior, bottoms and accessories. The two major classifications were as follows: top-exteriors overcoats and robes, And top-exterior-and-interior as top-exterior-and-interior(outside) and top-exterior-and-interior (inside). The study also identified the forms and changes by type. Additionally, this study selected overcoats and top-exterior-and-interior(outside) which fall under typical categories to show the change in the forms of men's fashion of the 19th century. These changes in the types were designated as: continued, faded away, newly appeared and transformed. This study analyzed the time of appearance of the forms by the year of publishing in conjunction with cultural references from previous domestic and international studies. The results showed that the time of changes in the types shown in pattern books did not deviate from the mainstream, which verified their typicality.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.151-162
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• 2019

This study identifies influential factors in regards to the purchase of celebrity fashion hot items and compares these factors in the age groups of teens and twenties. This study surveyed male and female consumers aged 10-20 years old for empirical analysis in July 2018. The study surveyed 322 consumers selected through online convenience sampling. Data were analyzed using SPSS for Windows 19.0, descriptive statistics, reliability analysis, ${\chi}^2$ analysis, regression analysis, ANOVA analysis, Duncan test, and t-test. The results were as follows. First, 87.6% of consumer have purchased celebrity fashion hot items more than once. In particular, female consumers in their 20s with a high fashion product expenditure tend to purchase more celebrity fashion hot items. Clothes and shoes were purchased more by 10-year-old males, shoes for males in their 20s, accessories for 10-year-old females female, and bags and accessories for female in their 20s. Second, there were no significant differences for those aged 10-20 years old in purchase satisfaction for celebrity fashion hot items according to age, gender, income, and fashion product expenditure. Consumers' awareness on corporate marketing intention to celebrity fashion hot items was higher among women in their 20s than men in their teens and twenties; in addition, the expenditure on fashion products also increased. Third, factors affecting the purchase of celebrity fashion hot items among teens and twenties were different according to age and gender. A higher need for identification for teenage male resulted in: lower media dependency, higher product involvement, fashion conformity, fashion innovativeness for 20s males, higher product involvement for 10s and 20s females, increased intention to purchase tended. This study provides consumer information and fashion item information that can be utilized in advertisement and promotion strategies for fashion companies that seek to perform celebrity marketing strategies that target consumers aged 10-20 years old.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.755-765
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• 2006

This study is on the esthetic characteristics in the haute couture work of Chanel. It first reviews the lives and the fashion philosophy of Chanel, a senior designer and Lagerfeld as representatives of the maison, from the haute couture collection since 2000. The results of the study are the following. First, reinterpreting the tradition, Chanel reproduced historical dress items or silhouette with modern sense, or she created a new modern Chanel image through her original restructuring and dismantling. Second, Chanel expressed balanced beauty of compounded eclecticism by accord between simplicity and ornamentation, which meant her design showed impartial beauty with simple silhouette, decoration with colors, accessories, and ornaments. Third, Chanel did not divide the value between men and women, and instead expressed androgyny through dismantling each gender's characteristics by borrowing or mixing. As a result, she emphasized the female image or created a new style through expressing symbolic image embracing masculinity.

• 복식
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• 제44권
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• pp.91-101
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to examine the hiphop fashion which has the leading power of 1990's korean fashion flow. Hiphop Fashion represents individuals' unique characters and their culture. Baggy jeans with extra large shirts, various accessories, and a unique coordination of these items that is all their own represents the style that is hiphop. There are three major reasons why hiphop fashion has become so popular in the 1990's. First, the popularity of hiphop music whose singers directly influence the public. Second, the popularity of sports and sporting heros. These athletes' sporty Hiphop looks has amply shown that are also leaders of the hiphop fashion. Third, mass media like TV and many publications, defivitely helped to quickly spread hiphop all over the world. Music only TV stations like MTV and StarTV are good examples. Fashion always tells us much - as every anthropologist knows - and a thoughtful analysis of hiphop will reveal many interesting, and perhaps even surprising things about the men and women who wear it.