• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권6호
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• pp.796-809
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• 2014

This study identifies formativeness and the Korean consciousness of the vernacular design in a Korean designers' collection in order to discover the internal characteristics of vernacular expression elements. The study is based on a theoretical review and an analysis of cases collected from Korean fashion designers' clothes. Research is limited to international collections of clothes presented by Korean fashion designers since 2,000. The process of Korean vernacular designs in fashion were analyzed for formativeness in form, color, pattern and detail. The research findings identified formativeness and Korean's consciousness of modern fashion designs that reflect vernacular designs as follows. First, they are round, flexible line and shape based on assimilated with nature, rhythmic curve to express life force and asymmetry based on an ecstatic world based on nature. Second, a white color explained the pure mind and racial peculiarities in regards to the five colors that expressed the thinking of traditional rituals such as prayers for comfort of life and ancestor worship. Third, there were patterns around shape of nature, praying, and Korea culture. Finally, there were skills of Korean traditional handcrafts such as embroideries, knit-works, gold foils, and quilts where clothes expressed the hardship of life and strong willpower to overcome. In conclusion, the clothing of Korean vernacular designs contains characteristics such as natural beauty, decorativeness, shamanism, and eclecticism.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.390-408
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• 2018

The number of hand knitters has increased dramatically in the past few years. Recently, various hand knitted items have been seen in many fashion collections. The main purpose of this study is to analyze the design features of hand knitted items in the collections from Daniela Gregis. This brand was selected because it featured knitted items in its collections every season. An empirical analysis about form, material, color and knitting technique was done for hand knitted items from Daniela Gregis' collections from 2012 S/S to 2018 S/S. The results can be summarized as follows: In terms of form, garments such as pullovers, cardigans, and shawls used basic components, and accessories such as bags, mufflers, hats, and decorative pieces had various shapes. In the material, there were many items that expressed unique textures by combining various materials such as a mix of fabric and yarn. With regards to color, orange, yellow, and red were mainly used as accent colors, and combinations of two or more colors were prominent in the items. In terms of knitting technique, the methods used in the collections were mostly simple and basic. Among various techniques, plain knitting, garter knitting, and single crochet methods were mainly used. While this study is limited to the characteristics of hand knitted items from a single brand, therefore cannot be generalized for all knit fashion, the study provides basic data that could facilitate the revitalization of the hand knitting industry and expand the application range of hand knitting techniques.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.806-821
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• 2000

Each and everything named fashion together with clothes were limited in the boundary of women and men's wear has been slow and narrow in changing speed compared to women's, even there are some differences in accordance time. But maintaining the basic features, men's wear in the latter 20th century has undergone diverse change in the part of materials such as various synthetic fiber, glass, metal, artificial leather and the see-through fabric able to seeing the body wearing the clothes. Therefore, the aim and definition of this study is to present the systematic framework giving help to develop men's wear design newer and more various by considering moulding of materials which existing men's wear could not show up and by grasping material trend of men's clothes in 1990s. The results of the study were summarized as follows : (1) Material containing lustering is categorized as Velvet, Silk, Lustering materials by synthetic fiber and Lustering materials by additional substance. The Velvet generally acknowledged having something to feel womanly image shows the bisexual character coexisting feature of men and women after grafting with men'fashion. The Silk was endowed the role as means of pleasure to express beyond boundary of sex breaking the existing consciousness which men should wear male clothes, not considering differences between men and women. The lustering made by synthetic fiber expressed modern sensitivity aesthetically to the suit. The lustering materials made by additional substance is seen mixed masculine character with womanly character. (2) See-through materials are acknowledged as decadence beauty caused by expanding subjective awareness in beauty. (3) Materials by the sorts of Net is categorized as Lace, Knit The Lace expression seemed to emphases the human liberation of men and women and the humanity from liberation of subjecthood. The Knit can be felt both woman's image and man's image as bisexual image, not raising only one side sex. (4) Elastic materials offered the opportunity to approve exposure in a time when exposure of men's body was not granted ethically. (5) Leather was shown as indication of social status and inferiority and expression of collective resistance against sexual stagnation of men and women.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.596-605
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• 2013

This study investigates the wearing trend and purchase facts for adult females in their 20s and 30s along with their fitting satisfaction for woven jackets and circular knitted jackets. A questionnaire survey on consumers investigated satisfaction with jackets according to clothing materials and repair trend after wearing. Subsequently, a preference for circular knitted jackets was shown higher than woven jackets. Females in their 20s preferred woven jackets than those in their 30s; however, the latter preferred circular knitted jackets than the former. For woven jackets, they showed the highest satisfaction with size; however, for circular knitted jackets, they showed the highest satisfaction with fitting. In the question on their satisfaction by jacket part, satisfaction with circular knitted jackets was higher in all items except for bust measurement, bottom edge measurement, elbow circumference, shoulder width, and clothes length. Circular knitted jackets had lower repair rates than woven jackets and woven jackets had significant differences by age in satisfaction with back width. The research results indicate that females in their 20s and 30s who value fit preference and practicality will increasingly wear knit clothes. Therefore, we can address the fitting satisfaction requirement of females in their 20s and 30s by taking the clothing material properties of circular knitted clothes into consideration. In addition, further research is required on jacket patterns in consideration of clothing materials.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권6호
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• pp.601-611
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• 2003

The main objective of this study was to investigate the relationship between benefits segmentation and knitwear purchasing behavior of college female students. A questionnaire was developed to measure benefits segmentation, knit wear purchasing behavior. The questionnaire was administered to 505 college female students in Chonbuk and Chonnam. The data was analyzed using percentage, frequency, mean, factor analysis, cluster analysis and ANOVA, Duncan multiple range test. The results of the study were as follows: The college female students were classified into four subdivisions by the cluster analysis: recreation pursuit group, fashion pursuit group, individuality pursuit group, self-improvement pursuit group on the basis of pursuit benefit factors. The knitwear purchasing motives of consumers were significantly different according to pursuit benefit subdivision. The individuality pursuit group was the highest user of mass media fashion information sources. The fashion pursuit group used purchasing experience and advice of others less than other groups. Consumers' evaluation criteria of knitwear products were significantly different depending on pursuit benefit subdivision in design and coordination, goods traits, practicality, individual expression, and external criterion. The other groups used purchasing experience and advice of others more than the fashion pursuit group.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.177-190
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• 2016

On-line consumer reviews are good references for consumers to evaluate and buy apparel products. The objective of this study is to facilitate communication about performance textiles between consumers and merchandisers who buy and sell apparel products on online. The survey was based on standardizing words used in consumer reviews written after purchase of summer knit t-shirts at internet shopping mall and evaluating the performance textiles including cellulose fibers. We collected reviews of five sorts of the clothing products including cotton/modal, tencel/polyurethane, polyester/rayon, linen, cotton and selected 1000 reviews related to textiles. For classifying each word used in the reviews by the performance textiles, they were quantified applying same standards. The results were as follow: First, the standard for consumer to consider importantly was tactile sensation, appearance, pilling, thickness, dimensional stability in washing. Second, the important category of performance textiles was healthy-comfort and psychological-comfort. Third, there were difference performance textiles for consumer to recognize, e.g. cotton/modal was important to air-permeability, tencel/polyurethane was noticed about tactile sensation, polyester/rayon was perceived about pilling unlike other things, linen had a problem of clothing care-convenience, then cotton was familiar fiber to important for appearance. The last, consumers usually focused on writing the most positive or negative online reviews. Although not familiar with professional terminologies, consumers are sensitive to physical properties of textiles. Therefore, standardizing and evaluating performance textiles are expected to improve satisfaction as providing objective information to consumers considering in buying apparel products at online shopping mall and increase in revenue to manufacturer.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권12호
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• pp.1971-1980
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• 2008

본 연구의 목적은 전통적인 니트웨어에 대한 의미와 깊이를 파악하고 베르그송과 들뢰즈의 연속성 이론을 배경으로, 전통 니트의 대표적 패턴인 아란 모티프를 응용한 니트웨어의 디자인 전개와 개발을 해보는데 있다. 현대패션에서 보여지는 주름, 종이접기, 공기주입시스템, 방울이나 꼬임 등에서 느낄 수 있는 소통, 공간적 느낌, 해체적 유동성 등이 연속성 이론의 기본이 된다. 아란 니트는 역사적 전통성을 가지고 있으며, 아란 니트에서 보여지는 모티프는 이러한 연속성의 이론에 부합하고 있다. 본 연구에서는 아란 모티프에서 연속성의 대표적인 케이블 모티프와 연속성 이론을 바탕으로 5점의 핸드 니트웨어를 디자인, 제작하였다. 전통적인 아란 니트와 연속성이론에 기초한 작품 제작 결과를 통하여 새로운 의미를 전달할 수 있는 니트 디자인 개발이 지속적으로 이루어지길 바란다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권6호
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• pp.870-879
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• 2006

In this study, the difference in the mechanical properties of silver and cotton weft knitted fabrics was studied. Six silver fabrics for the summer ladies' knit outwear were knitted varying knit structure and fabric density. Two commercial cotton knitted fabrics were selected to compare the properties. subjective sensation of hand of the fabrics was also studied. Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(THV) was carried out according to the KW-304 Summer. The result of the research show that silver weft knitted fabrics had lower LT, RT, G, 2HG and higher EM, W, LC, WC, RC than cotton weft knitted fabrics. The use of silver yam contributed to increase in surface roughness of knitted fabrics. As the silver knitted fabrics became thicker compressional energy increased. The use of silver yarns contributed to much better fabric handle compared with the use of cotton yam only. It appeared that coefficient of friction of tuck stitch was larger than that of plain and interlock stitch. KOSHI and FUKURAMI values of the tuck samples were significantly higher than those values of the plain and interlock samples, while SHARI values were low in general. The total hand value of tuck stitch was higher than those of interlock and plain stitch.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.670-686
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to delineate and analyze the expression of the kidult and its characteristics and thereby provide data to be used for fashion design in various manners as well as to suggest creative and varied possibilities of fashion design. As a way to study, the author of this paper organized the general terms, concepts and definitions concerning the kidult in the previous papers and journals. The data was collected from the collections represent the characteristics of kidult especially from 2006 to 2015. The results are as follows: Firstly, The characters stimulating the innocence of children were used the most for infantile expression. Parody used characters in the movie or famous logos. Deformation was used to create designs by way of distortion and deformation. Exaggeration thereby showing visually strong impression and inducing surprise and unexpectedness. Depaysement was useful to let us describe concepts and enhance our infinite creativity and interests about objects using surrealistic. Secondly, Infantile characteristics used the images of toys with infantile imagination and sense of humor. Fantasy introduced objects or expressed a dream-like feeling. Unexpectedness used two-faced ideas or conflicting ideas to express conflicts, collision and an interchange with heterogeneous things, avoiding the limit of size and the simplicity of materials. Parody used jocular expressions, satire and ironic expressions to express the original image in a fun manner. Exaggeration transformed changed the structure to restructure objects in a subjective and creative manner, thereby expressing creative patterns using various subject matters by way of special modeling or distortion and transformation.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.51-60
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• 2016

This study aims to contribute to development of women's incontinence panties with anti-aging effect meeting customers' requirements by examining types, sorts, sizes and specifications of women's incontinence panties currently sold in the market. The results of analysis of a total of 22 commercial products are as follows. 1. Among the samples, 21 incontinence panties were slip on type like regular underwear; only 1 was pad insertion type. With respect to the length of side seam, 17 (77.3%) incontinence panties were above 14 cm which is classified as maxi; the rest of them (5, 22.7%) were 7~11 cm which is classified as middy. 2. With respect to size, the percentage of Size 3 was 40.9% showing the largest, followed by Size 4 (31.8%), Size 2 (18.2%), Size 5 (9.1%). To produce the incontinence panties considering various ages and body shapes, it is recommended to select above Size 4 as a minimum. 3. With respect to materials of the incontinence panties, natural fibers such as cotton or rayon were mostly used and a polyurethane, nylon or polyester was mixed to enhance the wearing sensation and stretchability of the panties. Finally, for structure of the crotch area, single knit was the largest (9, 40.9%), terry weave 7 (31.8%), sofe pile weave 4 (18.2%), and waffle weave or diamond weave 2.