Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.3
no.2
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pp.75-86
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2001
The article is alms to investigate the characteristics, the originality, and the interest of fashion design of costume play, which is recently specifically popularized among young fashion mania. The influence of commercialization power of the Disneyland and the animation characters of Japanese caricatures makes the costume play to be one of the main new generation culture. Since the costume play just begins at this moment, the full understanding of the costume play is hard because of the small amount of the materials and happenings of the phenomena. However it reveals the design trends and creativity of the new generation. As the investigation of costume play fashion and the types of costume play, the following results are obtained. 1. The originality of the costume play is thought to be induced from the mask which is used against the ghost in primitive ages, the fancy parade of halloween festival, commercial advertisements of Disneyland, the Japanese caricatures, and the animation games. 2. The distinctive characteristics of Korean costume play shows the massive behaviour, which is different from the individualized costume play in Japan. This facts show the parts of the interest culture of the persons who has the equal interest. The costume play is applied as the sound showing culture, in which the young generation express and enjoy themselves by"kki" - the passion of young energy. 3. The boom of costume play introduce the increased number of costume play shop, pro model, and designer. It also introduce the interest of the new fashion design for the young generations. Thus it is expected the new fashion infra structure in near future.ar future.
This study is intended to understand an implication system and significance in the current community which a body image symbolizes by correlating it with fashion that is on the rise as a principal issue in various fields. For this study, the symbolism of the body image was contemplated in terms of philosophy and art, and then on the basis of it, the symbolism of the body image shown in modern fashion design was analyzed through fashion works. The research results are as follows, 1. The manifestation of sex can be taken as the symbolism of the body image which is expressed in modern fashion design. Recently sexual chaos and vagueness such as homosexuality and bisexuality are expressed through a dress and its ornaments. Though displaying sexual characteristics of male and female as they are exposing a sign or a diagram, decorating a part of body or representing sex in garments, uncertain sex identity in modern society is manifested in dress and its ornaments. It is to deny absoluteness regarding sex and emphasize diversity indwelt in human beings, and after all it shows to pursue the human essence. 2. Another symbolism of the body image is body expression as the human race and an ethnic group. The discriminating situations and the restoration of their status appeared in modern fashion too. Moreover, their cultures and issues came to alter the aesthetic standard of body made from a view of the Western white supremacist. Hereupon, fashion trends like ethnic fashion, Orientalism and African look etc. appear according to this tendency, which represents race and national identity and in addition, which signifies to present transcendental human conception embracing alienated human conception. 3. The symbolism of the body image expressed in a body, and a dress and its ornaments as nature can be considered in terms of the concern on environmental contamination and the respect of echo system. Getting away from reigning over, developing and stamping down nature at their will, the human beings pursue unity with nature, which is described in fashion. They are stressing that natural materials and objects such as animal, plant and soil etc. should activily be introduced into fashion and humans are a communal fate group and should reframe their status in nature at last. 4. The body image shown in a body, a dress and its ornaments as technology is transformed and recreated by modern scientific techniques and medical science to show post human conception namely, forthcoming future human conception as a cyborg which loses individual identity. This presents a perfect future human conception with high level of preternatural power but after all, leaves us a task to seek the meaning of human existence in alienation caused by the loss of human identity and existence. In this manner, the moderns crave for perceiving the identity of a natural human being in the current thoughts tendency of the modern times such as postmodernism, post structuralism, deconstructionism, feminism and so on, which build discussions affecting the art and fashion worlds. The categories, like sexual characteristics indwelt in a human body, racial classifications, the natural environment surrounding human beings and development of science, bring out the importance of the internal and external meaning in today's fashion which a human body contains, and present sew human conception in the coming future society.
The purpose of this paper is to examine which fashion brands are most likely to be investigated by Korean textile firms when they conduct their market trend analyses. The result shows that for the domestic sales, textile firms are most likely to collect and analyze information on the Cheil Textil Co. It is followed by Bean Pole, Chanel, Buberry, Tomboy. For the future domestic sales, textile firms prefers referring foreign fashion brands such as Burberry, ZARA, MaxMara, Missoni, and Chanel. Textile firms majoring exports prefers collecting and analyzing information on D&G followed by Chanel, Gucci, and DKNY. This preference, however, differs when considering exporting areas. Textile firms targeting the French market considers Gucci, followed by Ferragamo, Dior, Louisvuitton. Textile firms targeting the Italian market prefer Chanel, followed by Valentine, ZARA, Gucci, and Armani. Chanel is also top brand for the North American and Japanese markets, and followed by GAP, ZARA, OZOC, Missoni, Munshing Wear. The information content collected and analyzed by textile firms is style, pattern, color, and textile materials for textile firms targeting the domestic sales, while the exporting firms prefer information on color and textile materials proposed and presented by the fashion brands to which they prefer to make reference. The result of this study can be used to effectively and efficiently collect and analyze market information on fashion brands for textile firms majoring the domestic and foreign sales.
The purpose of this study was to identify the aesthetic characteristics of modern fashion design use with a particular focus on transparency, and to help create future vision and feature. As part of the methodology for this study, I examined the concept of transparency, its characteristics and how it was expressed through art, architecture and other designs using literature research. Furthermore, I performed justifiable analysis on modern fashion design which used transparency from the 1990s till present. The following concepts were deciphered from information: Firstly, the concept of purity was highlighted. The emphasis here was to enhance the body's natural beauty with simple silhouettes that do not restrict its curves, using light materials such as clear vinyl, semi-clear materials or thin chiffon. Secondly, to express sensuality by exposing the body's curves with tight wrapping using clear materials, or with indirect and symbolic see-through techniques using contrasting clear, semi-clear and opaque materials. Thirdly, to express futurism through cyber and electronic images using high tech or shiny materials such as metal or holograms. Mechanical movements or effects of light are also used. Fourthly, to express playful characteristic by promoting surprises and disharmony that contradict with traditional techniques. This is carried out by intentionally exaggerating certain portions of clothes through disorder elements or confusion, and unsymmetrical shapes which destruct the human body's normal form.
A universal design means a progressive and challenging design in the 21st century which can satisfy the demands from not only aged people and disabled people but also numerous members of our society. This research aims to apply a universal design commonly used in architecture (environment) and products to costumes, so as to convert the design into a universal fashion which can meet the aesthetic values, desires, and functionality of aged people and disabled women. After applying the said five universal fashion principles and design factors, a total of 20 pieces of universal fashion prototype products are produced through functional designs and designs utilizing knit materials and health & functionality materials. In addition, a direction to develop universal fashion products is suggested for costume manufacturers, for the purpose of facilitating the practical use of a universal fashion. The present author expects that human-centered universal fashion costumes shall propose the orientation of the interest in future new designs, beyond the scope of a jump in the quality of simple functional costumes.
This study was aimed at analyzing how the dualism of hippie style in the modern retro-fashion, namely, the neo hippie style and the hippie chic style were expressed. For this study, domestic & foreign fashion magazines, preceding theses, literatures, an encyclopedia, and Internet sites were reviewed. The results of this study could be summarized as follows; 1. Silhouette : The neo hippie style was expressed in slim and long silhouette to show the natural beauty. The hippie chic style was expressed in various silhouettes depending on designer's tastes. 2. Color : The neo hippie style was expressed in strong color and analogous color coordination to show richness of human nature. The hippie chic style was expressed in psychedelic color, multi-color, and fluorescent color to show an unconventional and a future oriented idea. 3. Material . The neo hippie style used such soft, thin, and flexible materials as chiffon, satin, silk, knit, etc. to show the natural beauty The hippie chic style used expensive and luxurious materials, high-technological materials, harmony of different materials, etc. 4. Pattern . In the neo hippie style, it was generally used various patterns including plant, animal, insect. In the hippie chic style, it was widely used the natural pattern as well as the ethnic pattern. The neo hippie style was characterized by the natural beauty, purity, elegance as style symbolizing the social problem, on the other hand, the hippie chic style was characterized by designer's identity suggesting an idea of new style rather than a symbol of the social problem.
The purpose of this study is to investigate the design methods and characteristics of papercraft fashion from 2001 to 2015. The study has been conducted through theoretical research and case study. Overall, types of papercraft expressions are classified into the following four categories: narrative papercraft fashion, organic papercraft fashion, variable papercraft fashion, and recycling papercraft fashion. The characteristics and aspects of each type of papercraft is described below. First, narrative papercraft fashion expresses as factual description of the natural environment. These works convey fantastic image by showing fairy tale animals or plants using paper folding or cutting. Second, organic papercraft fashion creates a futuristic shape by expressing organic parts in nature. Also, it often depicts future-oriented images by repeatedly representing organic shapes using uniform patterns in nature. Third, variable papercraft fashion expresses a variety of changing shapes through a flexible design based on the style of wearing. This variation may be accomplished through changeable dress connected to human gestures. Variable papercraft represents play-fulness, which conveys enjoyment to the wearer and the audience. Fourth, recycling papercraft fashion uses paper materials of the past, and recreates them into artworks through handicraft techniques. Recycling papercraft conveys high value added fashion by dissolving the material into pulp.
The fashion industry is considered hazardous and a threatened to the environment. Due the negative perception, the industry should focus on sustainability as a social role. Therefore, several redesign fashion collaborations mainly focusing on renewing abandoned resources are already in place. The research method was based on previous studies, and 3 characteristics were derived: Redesign collaboration between fashion companies, Redesign collaboration between fashion & heterogeneous industries, and Redesign collaboration between the fashion industry & non-profit organizations. Those 3 characteristics were reviewed using 4 criteria. First, to establish and maximize the sustainable brand image and to be the best examples in environmental management, the organization endeavors to collaborate with various industries, institutions, and designers. Second is the expansion of the customer network through the spread of value consumption. Third is the creation of new values through a resource circulation structure. This means that the resource circulation structure system helps the partners to minimize on wastage. Fourth is the spread of de-boundary lines and the possibility of brand growth. Through collaboration with other industries, the boundaries of materials used in the fashion industry started to blur, thus expanding the continuous brand growth potential. The study derived the characteristics of redesign collaboration by systematically analyzing the cases. Further, the study looks forward to analyzing the characteristics of the products processed by redesign fashion collaborations in future research.
The Tartan, the representative check pattern and traditional costume of Scothand, is the most popualr checker which has inherited from the clans of the Scotch Highlands in the ancient times and continued to develop. It is a symbol of the Scotch culture and tadition and widely used in various ways according to status, birthplace purpose and use. Therefore, this study was intended to inquire into Tartan check. The purpose of this study attempted to make a systematic investigation of the characteristic of the Tartan check. the checker using vertical and horizontal lines which was the universal plastic element and inquire into it in terms of era, designers and combined works. By doing so, this study attempted to investigate the phase of the Tartan check in world fashion and further forecast the future of checker design applicable to the 21th-Century fashion. In addition it, attempted to investigate the features of Scottch costume unknown in our academic circles and inquire into the proless in while the Scottch has retained the originality of its own which suppressed by neighboring countries. This study could find out that the checker is the element of infinite applicability in the future. It is expected that the sophisticated and beautiful design using the checker will be presented by many Korean designer through the overall and systanatic study of the checker. On the other hand, to make an empirical study costume of other races, a comprehensive examination should be made of the social and cultural background against which locals are using their costume, through the survey of their real costume and on-spot research. It this respect, this study has some limitation in time and data collection. Besides the analysis of costume through materials and photos in museums as well as the study of cloth material and accurate colors was not con여cted in this in this study. This will remain to be study of in the future.
In contemporary art, soft materials are used in various forms and ways as a medium expressing contingency beyond a simple nature of materials. In the late 1960's, the appearance of soft sculpture as a refusal of the stereotyped 'Erection' characteristic of traditional sculpture served as an opportunity for more attention to soft materials. Fashion is the reflection of age, and the mirror of society, culture and arts. In other words, soft sculpture and fashion are artistic behaviors in the same context, which have neither been fixed nor erected. This study finds its significance in analyzing correlation between soft sculpture and fashion, and the importance of contingency as artistic expression means in this age when boundaries between genres are obscure, and artistic values are given to fashion. By doing so, it aims to present the direction toward which fashion should face in the future, establishing a new aesthetic consciousness with which more creative and various expressions are available in fashion as well. This study presented as its theoretical background the concept of soft sculpture affected by Marcel Duchamp among representative examples of the contingency that started to appear in art starting in the early 20th century. It also analyzed the soft sculpture appeared in 1960s and the expression methods and features of contingency appeared in fashion after late 1990s through a new approach of piling up, hanging up, and tying, three categories classified by Maurice $Fr{\acute{e}}churet$. Common features of the contingency expressed in soft sculpture and fashion were derived in the analysis, which are intensive effects of energy, values given to physical properties themselves, and esthetics of anti-form.
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