• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.21-44
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• 2024

The purpose of this study was to research modern reinterpretation of traditional Chinese culture and design development of fashion items in the context of globalization and technological advancements, reflecting fashion demands of young female consumers in their 20s in China. To achieve this, this study investigated fashion preferences of young women in major Chinese cities, focusing on design elements such as form, details, patterns, and colors in 'New Chinese Style' fashion. Results indicated a high preference for overlapping collars, Mandarin collars, oblique front pieces, and slit sleeves. Additionally, there was a strong preference for natural and eco-friendly materials such as plant dyes and embossed velvet. Based on survey results and analysis of the popular brand 'TUYUE,' this study proposed two design themes. The first theme, 'natural symbiosis,' focused on casual wear with a soft and free image with a simple design. The second theme, 'chivalrous guest,' targeted work attire with minimal designs emphasizing power and confidence. Both themes aimed to meet aesthetic and practical needs of modern women by incorporating overlapping collars, asymmetrical front pieces, slit sleeves, and preferred colors and patterns. In conclusion, although this study was limited to design preferences of young Chinese women in their 20s, results offer valuable direction for future design innovation, contributing to sustainable development of the fashion industry and the preservation and innovation of traditional culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.97-113
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• 2014

The study aims to determine the significance and characteristics of self-similarity inherent in natural objects or phenomena, the existence of self-similarity in design created by fashion designers, and the traits and internal significance implied in self-similarity and their effects on fashion. The subject of the study is Viktor & Rolf, and the scope of the study is the collections created from 2001 to 2014, which include designs implemented in their early years and those unveiled in the media. Self-similarity means attributes of a fractal structure appearing without change in the original form, even after modification of scale or direction in terms of shape or phenomena. As self-similarity is applied to the arts and design sectors, it leads people to pay attention to fundamental characteristics and intrinsic forms as a factor of expressing a unique creative world. Analysis of Viktor & Rolf collections generated ribbons, overlapping/juxtaposition, side decorations and exaggerated design elements as basic units of self-similarity. These factors had self-similarity rates as high as 84%. Self-similarity was established as design elements formed in the incipient stage were repeated in a certain form, and continued for a long period of time. It served as an element that recognizes design and a fashion designer at the same time. Characteristics of self-similarity appearing in Viktor & Rolf collections can be summarized as homeostasis based on an equivalent relationship, balance based on self-organization, reducibility into essential elements, and uniqueness based on odd shapes. These characteristics influenced the pursuit of consistent brand image, the maintenance of a fashion designer's creative world, the formation of styles and the expression of a fashion designer's identity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.57-67
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• 2004

The forms of man's costumes in Byzantine Empire were changed according to each composition of costumes. Those forms of costumes had common features of each period when costumes were included. At the same time, however, the fact that differences existed in accordance with a social position including gender, class, occupation, etc. even though in same period were showed. Analytic elements of man's costumes in Byzantine Empire were selected by important factors. This showed the meanings of position and class in that time. The kinds of analytic elements in man's outwear were various but the forms of costumes were not developed because christianity influenced the forms of clothing in the Middle Ages. As the result of synthesis, the main factor of man's costumes was a tunic in Byzantine Empire of the Middle Ages The phases of the times were reflected on the structure of man's costumes in Byzantine Empire. In particular, religious feature was emphasized, and analytic elements of costumes having meanings showed the features of the society at the Middle Ages. For example, a central analytic element of man's costume, an outer garment was a tunic style of H-silhouette that hid the body line. This was influenced by the phases of the times. Namely, the costume stands as a symbol of the times, and also is a cultural sign that reflects phases like politics, economy, religion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.34-56
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• 2005

This study analyzed the formative relationship between clothes and hat, and to find out the development direction of next hat design. To do these purposes, Fashion photos were picked up from all kinds of fashion magazines containing in Paris from the 1990's to 2004 S/S and some designers' collections. Then 1,381 photos were selected through two screenings. At first time, 1,500 photos were selected to have the relationship between clothes and hats, and finally 1,381 photos were picked. The method to analyze was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. The results suggest that clothes and hat have an organic relationship, and a hat style is changed with formative elements of clothes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.547-558
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• 2017

Recently, the replacement of creative directors of fashion brands has gained attention from both researchers and practitioners. This study selected three representative fashion brands whose creative directors were replaced in the last 10 years, and analyzed the changed characteristics of their magazine advertisements. Literature studies and case studies were conducted as research methods. The subjects of the case studies were three fashion brands - 'Saint Laurent', 'Louis Vuitton', and 'Gucci'. Magazine advertisements were divided into two aspects: fashion photo elements and layout. The former can be classified into three components: the presence of a specific situation, the background of photos and objects, and the atmosphere of models. The latter can be classified into two components: the logo style and pictorial color. In terms of fashion photo elements, the presence of a specific situation in magazine advertisements appeared differently, depending on whether creative directors focus on the brand's own identity or on their own concept of each season. Also, the background of photos and objects, and the atmosphere of models changed depending on the situation. In terms of layout, there is no dramatic change in their logo styles, for they want to preserve their long tradition. And the more a creative director pursues younger sensibility, the more black and white color effect are added towards magazine advertisements. This study has its significance in that it confirms the replacement of creative directors has considerable influence on fashion brands' images and their magazine advertisements.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.48-58
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to analyze four separate elements-sublime beauty, elegant beauty, mysticism, ornament-which appeared in materials, patterns, colors, silhouettes, details, and accessories, laying stress on luxurious, brilliant, mysterious feelings on Gorgeous Images appeared as trend theme of modern fashion by mixing religious mysticism of the Byzantine Empire. Mysticism element is using the effect of splendid and gorgeous colors from the Orient rather than forms. And a philosophy of abundant colors in mosaics, which are seen in art forms such as architecture, paintings, etc., shows that it creates some visual rooms for religious spirits. Influenced by the fashion of the Greco-Roman style, the elegant beauty element is expressing abundant comfort and elegant feminine lines that are from creases, and it is also emphasizing natural beauty which seems to slip down by displaying the splendid images of Gorgeous as drapes that fit a body. Ornament element was reflecting an inspiration from the splendid and brilliant culture of religion in the Byzantine Age. Therefore, it was appeared as a style filling the whole with bulky silks, splendid ornamental materials embroidered in gold or silver thread, the complicated geometric patterns that are two-dimensional and dignified, and so on. It was decorated with crosses which represent Christianity as a motif, and also it emphasized the splendor of the Byzantine and dazzling splendid images of Gorgeous by using accessaries decorated with various jewels. The elements of sublime beauty are showing the beauty adding humble and majestic images to it as designs sought by spiritual values or intrinsic values. Those designs, so to speak, have pretense which does not allow to expose a body and plain pure feeling, so that they are showing some abstinent styles in a solemn atmosphere, with most details removed. We can say the Fashion Theme appearing in Modern Times is the result from representing by combining various factors of the times with formative beauty through creative works for aesthetic expression. The moderners are requiring new designs which is possible to meet their individualities, in addition to their outstanding fashion senses. From this point of view, a variety of textiles, patterns, and colors in the Byzantine have a great meaning to fulfill people's various desires as interesting elements.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.48-66
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• 2022

This study aimed to investigate and analyze the overall color utilization characteristics as design elements of advanced men's premium outer brands. From the analysis of a total of 889 color samples, PB showed the highest distribution in color, Bk, R, and P. The use of ltg and p of high and low chroma was high, centering on dkg of low value and low chroma, and g of medium chroma. The men's premium outer brand displays a luxurious color image centered on color planning due to color contrast between dark and grayish shades. The characteristics of colors and color distribution by brand were considered. The brands that utilized the most diverse colors and shades were Herno, which pursues sportswear of the Elegance image, and Stone Island, which pursues casual images of workwear style. These results show that systematic planning using colors and shades are utilized by all premium outer brand concept. The results of this study are meaningful because they can be used as basic data for effective product planning, men's outer design development, and color planning of outer clothing brands are they represent premium outer brands for men, and identifies color characteristics as differentiated design elements.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.50-63
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• 2024

Chinese traditional wedding dress is a unique cultural symbol. It had a deep historical background as it went through different productions in each dynasty. However, with the introduction of Western ideas, an increasing number of people are wearing Western-style wedding dresses when they are getting married. Recently, traditional Chinese culture has been increasingly valued. Demand for traditional Chinese wedding dresses among modern Chinese people is increasing. Following this trend, Chinese designer Guo Pei(1967~) is actively innovating elements of traditional Chinese wedding dresses. This study aimed to analyze changes in traditional wedding dress styles by dynasty in China from 1046 B.C. to 1911 A.D. based on museum data and previous research. Changes in traditional wedding dress styles by Chinese dynasty were analyzed and organized. The meaning of wedding dress patterns was analyzed by type using traditional Chinese patterns. This study focused on Guo Pei's 2012 "Chinese bride" series and "Legend of the dragon" series. Starting from the development and characteristics of traditional Chinese wedding dresses, this study analyzed fashion characteristics of Guo Pei's wedding dress series. Goals of this study were to preserve the essence of traditional Chinese wedding dresses; and to determine how to apply the fusion of traditional Chinese design elements into fashion and modern design to wedding dresses.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.581-588
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• 2007

The purposes of this study are to look into the formative characteristics of the miniskirt and to evaluate the visual effects and images according to changes in the silhouette and length of the miniskirt from analyzing the mini skirt style shown in 2007 S/S domestic fashion. The miniskirt style shown in 2007 S/S domestic fashion was analyzed with pictures from a fashion website "Interfashion Planning" from Feb. to May of 2007. As a result, the basic lines of the miniskirt are classified into two types according to the side line. The lengths of miniskirts are classified into five steps of 25 cm, 27.5 cm, 30 cm, 32.5 cm, and 35 cm from the natural waistline. The stimuli were produced with imaginative sewing system 3D CAD of i-design series. For the visual evaluation according to changes in the silhouettes and length of the miniskirt, we used 13 pairs of items to find the visual effects, and 23 pairs of adjectives to measure the visual images. The stimuli and adjectives were randomly given to the evaluators and were evaluated by the 7-point likert type scale. Data we got from this experiment was analyzed statistically by using the SPSS 12.0 and practiced the Factor Analysis and Correlation Analysis. Formative characteristics of miniskirts can be found in the lines, colors, and materials that are the elements of fashion designs, colors and materials are the characteristics of the cloth that is the medium of the expression of designs. The result of factor analysis of visual effects and visual images according to changes in the silhouettes and lengths of miniskirts, the visual effect was composed of the three factors of the length of the lower body, the thickness of the lower body, and the shape abdomen and it was showed that these three factors occupied 63.6% of the total variance. The visual image was composed of four factors of elegance, personality, attraction, maturity and these four factors got 67.6% of the total variance.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.629-644
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• 2018

Global fast fashion brands have been popular and most of them have entered the Korean market. With their success, Korean apparel companies launched domestic fast fashion brands; however, recently they have become fiercely competitive, and consumers are demanding better design and quality and cheaper prices than before. The purpose of this study is to explore consumer purchasing behavior of the global as well as domestic fast fashion brands sold in Korea and to suggest marketing strategies for the brands sold in Korea. The study includes interviewing 61 Korean consumers to ask about their purchasing behavior and experiences. This study found four themes from these in-depth interviews: 1) demand of product glocalization which considers both globalization and localization for better style, quality, and assortment plan, 2) satisfaction with the reasonable price range of fast fashion brands but dissatisfaction with price discrimination among countries, 3) importance of easy, comfortable, and convenient accessibility to fast fashion brands, and 4) preference for good brand reputation related to corporate social responsibility(CSR) and nationality. From these four themes, this study developed the four elements of the marketing mix: product, price, accessibility, and reputation to adapt to a new marketing environment that emphasizes the development of information technology, consumer-centric marketing, and corporate ethics. The findings of this research could contribute useful information to both global and domestic fashion companies as well as consumers.