• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제6권1호
• /
• pp.84-93
• /
• 1998

The main focus of this paper is to provide clear understanding about the concept of make-up as total fashion by defining the essential meaning of it. First, we would like to go over the concept of make-up and total fashion, then analyze the make-up image, the changes of colors and images of make-up overtime and fashion that have influenced over those changes. In this paper, we analyze the trend of fashion and make-up in 1990s and their relevancy. Through this paper we hope that make-up can be accepted as a part of total fashion in its relationship with other elements such as shoes, clothes and accessory and that it can be considered as a independent art that has direct influence on people. The trend of Spring/Summer between 1990 and 92is the image of natural beauty and comfortable and modernistic image that can be experienced through nature. In 1992, there was a revival look of 1960s and 1970s. Make-up also followed this trend. The overall color tone was to give natural and stable images with pastel tone to soften the images. This tone brought back the ecology of 1960s. The theme of restoration in humanity and nostalgia was reflected in clothing, and these trend changed the ecology of make-up to peace, love and romantic ecology which was expressed in coral, blue, and green tone to create intelligent image of woman. Year 1996 could be called as color revolution period that emphasized the unique and individual expression of each person. In 1997, black, pastel and brown colors were the result of reinterpreting the classic and sexy images of 1960s to natural and modernistic image of 1997. Purple color started to be introduced to us. The beginning of 1990s Fall/Winter season was based on ecology concept that emphasized the natural image. Until 1995 it appeared that spring/summer and fall/winter trend had no big differences. But from 1995 seasonal differences in trend are appeared and there were various make-up designs. In 1995, 1996, brown color lines make-up comes to mix with romantic image and developed into wine, orange, neon colors. These color were the symbol of property and sentiment and gold make-up emphasizing the eye area was the tendency of that period. In 1997, the fear of coming end of century was expressed as decadent image and at that time ethnic image, romantic image appeared with vivid color lines, gold, red and violet.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제13권1호
• /
• pp.99-112
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this research is to study India's traditional embroidery method, Mirror Work, and to evaluate the examples of contemporary costumes as well as the applications of art to clothing that have been influenced by this technique, in order to expand its usage for creation of a new fashion image. Research in the literature and application of works related to Mirror Work have demonstrated: First of all, as a traditional embroidery method that represents the folk art of India, Mirror Work displays unique methods used in different regions and the way that various methods and materials were combined by the use of mirrors, beads, and $appliqu{\acute{e}}$. Secondly, it was found that the presentation of Mirror Work in the $pr{\hat{e}}t$-a-porte collection is based on a traditional embroidery method using both developed materials and adapted methods to express traditional reproducibility, geometric simplicity, and aesthetic characteristics of complex decorations. Thirdly, new plasticity for art to wear clothing can be created through various methods aside from embroidery, for example by a technique of wrapping crochet laces and tapes around the mirror for decorative purposes. Based on these results it can be inferred that, from the perspective of multiple forms for decorations, Mirror Work shares multiple forms of personal aesthetic goals through the mirror's unique quality for expression and enhanced images of artistic decorative art. Also, the introduction of traditional materials and methods for today's folk art and traditional costumes can be the subject of unique aesthetic characteristics based on different perspectives of the recreation of tradition. Finally, it can further create a new plasticity within the globalization phenomena.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제10권1호
• /
• pp.25-44
• /
• 2008

Geisha's gorgeous kimonos and grotesque make-up was the object of envy to Japanese women. There is a line in the movie like "Kimonos to the Geisha is the same as colors to the painter." Likewise, splendid patterns and colorful kimonos were an indispensible method or symbol for showing their artistic accomplishments. The purpose of this study is to investigate concept and origin of Geisha and their dress and decoration, analyze the dress of the people which appear in the movie, , arrange the expression of Geisha's dress as a movie costume, compare the difference of the dress by the career of Geisha and look back the disappearing aesthetic sense of Geisha. First, since Geisha appeared for the first time in Kyoto in 1751, it has become the world-wide representative of Japanese woman's images so that its existence oneself has become the tradition. Second, Geisha created fashion of various clothes, adornments, and hair styles as a creator of the popularity. Third, the strict regulation without exception is applied in Geisha's clothing, make-up, and motion tuned Samisen, Japanese traditional strings, and there is some difference in their hair style and dress by age of Maiko. Fourth, it is famous for unique make-up that Geisha makes up their faces, necks, and shoulders white, newly paints eyes, nose, lip line like drawing a picture in a pure white paper. Geishas put a little make-up as they have a higher position. Fifth, a heroin, Chiyo, shows clothing as a maid, an apprentice Geisha-Maiko- and a formal Geisha according to time flow. The length of kimono, textures, and hair decorations are longer, more splendid, and are more various as time goes. On the other hand, her make-up is lighter.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제17권2호
• /
• pp.185-205
• /
• 2015

The modern trend in costumes, influenced by postmodernism, is to use of various patterns and images borrowed from diverse cultures of many ethnic groups. The Yi tribe studied in this paper is miner ethnic group in China, whose traditional costume is very splendid and modern. In addition, its embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ pattern have a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse, splendid and each one has its own peculiar elegance. As for the research method, I examined the Yi tribe's history, culture, traditional costumes and patterns through related books, research papers and inter web sites. As for the result, the Yi tribe's costumes consisted of a jacket, trousers or a skirt, an apron and a belt. Although the favorite color of the costume is black color, there are splendid embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ decorations with the colors of red, yellow, green and purple on the chest or shoulder part of a jacket, the adjusting lines, cuffs or a part of a trousers and aprons. Patterns in their traditional clothing also show details that depict traditional cultural ideas that have long been formed in various fields, such as aesthetics, religion, philosophy, and customs. Moreover, most patterns displayed in their traditional clothing contain nature motifs and represent unique and beautiful designs; some patterns are even reminiscent of abstract paintings by modern artists. In conclusion, the traditional patterns of Chinese ethnic minorities reflect the values and notions of these races as well as decorative magnificence and a unique spiritual image. In other words, traditional patterns indicate the spiritual depth or symbolic stories beyond mere formative beauty.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제25권1호
• /
• pp.150-164
• /
• 2021

This study analyzed the punk style shown in the movie Sid and Nancy (1986), based on a true story. The purpose of this study was to prove that the styles of the main characters had some discriminatory mode as an anti-fashion with not only the value system of the subculture but also the diverse cultural codes applied, revealing their identity. The scope of this study covered the 1970s when Sid died while a member of the Sex Pistols, but was limited to the analysis of Sid and Nancy's costumes. As theoretical background, this study reviewed the preceding studies, specialty books, movie-related sites and their postings, and on-line news reports. To analyze the movie costumes, relevant scenes on the DVD were captured, and thereby, the scenes were categorized per character and style but a performance scene was categorized Sid and Nancy as same punky wedding style because of intention spirituality to marriage by director, and thereupon, 17-cut images were used for the analysis of main characters' styles. Sid's style consisted primarily of black leather jackets, symbolic T-shirts, and jeans, whereas Nancy's style implied a punk style with added fetish styles. Even in the same punk style, their identities were symbolized through bricolage. Through this, subculture styles, were able to confirm that in addition to the value system of subculture, discriminatory modes as anti-fashion with various cultural codes played a role in revealing their identity.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제22권3호
• /
• pp.399-410
• /
• 2014

The purpose of this study was to investigate emotional images and preference of knitwear by tone on tone combination. The subjects were 357 university students in Daejeon and Chungnam province, and the measuring instruments were 6 stimuli manipulated by color and tone combination type of background and pattern in the tone and tone combination, and self-administrated questionnaires consisted of emotional images items, preference items, and subjects' demographics attributions. The data were analyzed by Cronbach's ${\alpha}$, factor analysis, t-test, MANOVA and Duncan's multiple range test, using SPSS program. The results were as follows. First, four factors (attractiveness, conspicuity, mildness, and activity) are emerged on emotional images of knitwear. Second, color had main effects on emotional images and preference. Gray color was perceived as most attractive image and more preferred than others. Third, tone combination type had some effects on emotional images. Vivid tone background/light tone pattern was perceived more attractive image but less conspicuous and mild than light tone background/vivid tone pattern. Forth, subjects' gender had an effects on conspicuous image. Male was perceived more conspicuous image on knitwear stimuli than female. Fifth, color and subjects' gender had interaction effects on attractiveness image and preference. Male perceived that blue is more attractive and preferred than female.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제18권4호
• /
• pp.80-96
• /
• 2014

The purpose of this study is to consider the expression of costume through the review of cinema costumes and to provide the model of cooperation between fashion and movie industry by analysis of collaboration with fashion brands in the movie . The subjects are the 1974 film directed by Jack Clayton and the 2013 version by Baz Luhrmann. Cinema Fashion was studied by analyzing the costumes of the two main characters, Gatsby and Daisy, in each scene. Gatsby's costume appeared as a model of traditional American classic suit, sensitive G-G look that symbolizes social success and traditional casual style that reflects upper-class life style. Daisy's costume expressed pastel toned luxury flapper look, oriental art deco style, and prestigious jewelry representing high class. The collaborations with fashion brands were carried out with Ralph Lauren and Cartier in 1974 film, and Brooks Brothers, Prada, and Tiffany in 2013. The value of prestige brands that matched the images of the movie was utilized, but marketing strategies for the promotion of fashion goods were not enough in 1974 version. On the other hand, in 2013 film, the effects of collaboration of the movie and fashion brands were forecasted sufficiently and marketing campaigns for promotion were performed in a various ways. The characteristics of collaborations were as follows: (1) the usage of prestige brands value, (2) collections planning and promotion using the stories of a movie, (3) the usage of multidirectional digital media, and (4) multi-dimensional promotion using entertainment factors. In collaborations with the movie, fashion brands could make cooperative relationship to produce the positive effects for promotion and prestige image strategies and draw attention of the people to the movie and fashion.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• 제12권1호
• /
• pp.49-63
• /
• 2012

The objectives of this study were to investigate appearance management behaviors and hairstyle preferences in accordance with personality types and self-image, and to examine the characteristics that influence simultaneously the appearance management behaviors. A survey was used for as for this research. The personality properties of introversion and extroversion were further divided, based on the aspects of emotions, thoughts, behaviors, and interpersonal psychological functions. The subjects were 383 girls in their first year of high school in Seoul. The extrovert type showed a higher level of management for clothing, hair and face than the introvert type. The emotional extrovert type and the interpersonal extrovert type showed the highest level of clothing management, the active extrovert type showed the highest level of face management, and the interpersonal introvert type showed a very low level of hail management. The high school girls who had a higher social and mature self-image showed a higher level of clothing, hair and face management. Introverted girls preferred a mid-length straight hairstyle more than extroverted girls. The higher the social and mature self-images girls had, the more they preferred a long wave hairstyle. The higher the cute image they had, the more they preferred wave hairstyle. The entire appearance management behavior was affected significantly by extroversion, mature image, and allowance, simultaneously.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제39권2호
• /
• pp.307-322
• /
• 2015

This study develops textile designs and cultural fashion products with the image of 'Youngguchunhwa', which means the beautiful spring flowers of Jeju. Historical literature was reviewed to emphasize the authenticity of Halla Mountain and Youngguchunhwa. Consumers' responses to Halla Mountain, Baengnokdam, and Royal Azalea related to Youngguchunhwa were evaluated along with photos of Halla Mountain and Youngguchunhwa images upload on Internet during the last 2 years. The results of consumer survey and photo analysis confirmed the consumers' high preference and high association with the image of Jeju. The full-blown Royal Azaleas in the Seonjakjiwat field of Halla Mountain were used as motifs for the development of Jeju cultural products as a representative landscape showing the beautiful spring of Jeju. Six types of textile designs were developed by the repeated arrangement of the basic patterns of Halla Mountain, Baengnokdam, and Royal Azalea. Ladies' apparels products, children's wear, bags and cushions were made using oxford cotton fabrics printed with the textile designs. We suggest how pattern designs of the Youngguchunhwa image could be applicable and used for the development of other kinds of Jeju tourism souvenirs.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제11권6호
• /
• pp.87-100
• /
• 2007

This study aims at analyzing the characteristics of deconestructionism expressed in Issey Myake's fashion who is one of the most creative designers in the world. Method and contents of this study are as follows. Through the review of literatures, three major categories such as interminacy of meaning, decentring, and intertextuality and eight subcategories have been identified as major features of deconestructionism. These subcategories for content analysis were selected to examine the characteristics of deconstructionism expressed in Issey Myake's design in depth. Interminacy of meaning was divided into unstructured and unconstructed factors while decentring into qualities of cross-gender, subculture, anti-fashion, and post-humanism. Lastly, intertextuality was classified into factors of disordered mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from total 349 designs on the website,www.firstview.com, which carries Issey Miyake's collection from 2002 S/S through 2006 F/W. 2 fashion major analysts including the researcher participated in 1st analysis and two another fashion major analysts participated in 2nd analysis. The final level of consistency between analysts was over 97% for all categories. The data analysis quantitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and qualitatively evaluates the characteristics of design. The result is as follows. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, Miyake has introduced the various novelly textiles to fashion and employed the mixtured styles, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has used various fabrics in order to inflict shock and contrast but still create subtle harmony, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of Miyake's fashion design. Miyake has employed unconstructed expression techniques, which has projected unusual images free from basic forms of designs and also has used the unstructured styles which dismantle harmony and balance-the common rule of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. He has demonstrated a unique perspective on cloth construction and presented a love for artistic collaboration in the development of his collections A distinct manufactured aesthetic is exaggerated, even hyperbolic. Thirdly, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in Miyake's design, however, it has been visibly decreased after 2002 S/S.