• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.32-43
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• 2011

This study investigate the transition about Japanese national costume kimono. The prototype of the present kimono is a kosode. The origin of kosode dates back to the mid-Heian period, when this type of kimono served as the everyday wear of commoners and an undergarment for court nobles, both men and women. In the Muromachi period, particularly after the Onin war, the kosode began to be by people of all classes. In the Muromachi period, kosode consisted mainly of woven textiles. In the Momoyama period, kosode became very elaborate, employing such various techniques as tie-dyeing, embroidery, metallic leaf(surihaku) and free-hand painting. These were further combined resulting in such techniques as tsujigahana dyeing and nuihaku, which are now considered to epitomize Momoyama-period textile design. A category of kosode of the early Edo period, known as Keicho kosode, is fashioned mainly from black, white, or red figured satin(rinzu), or from figured satin segmented in these three colors. Books of kosode designs began to be published in the Kambun era, when the merchant class was becoming economically powerful, kosode began to reflect its taste. During its final stage of development in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, yuzen dyeing achieved wide acceptance. From the late 18th century toward the early 19th century, kosode worn by the merchant class underwent drastic changes, while those worn by the samurai class changed little. In the after the late 18th century, clear differences in design and decorative methods appeared between the kosode worn by rich merchants and those worn by middle and lower class merchants.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.100-113
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• 2018

From the late 17th to the early 18th century, Europeans were strongly intrigued by products from the East. Therefore, several countries like England, France, and Netherlands formed the 'East India Company' to pursue trade. First, European markets rapidly responded to this desire for exoticism by importing goods; then, they produced imitation Oriental goods. Finally, they made stylistically advanced exotic merchandise from the perspectives of European. In terms of the textile industry, this trend was expressed in the pattern design of silk, or the so called 'bizarre silk.' In this paper, bizarre silk patterns were scrutinized based on a digital archive of museums, catalogues of museums, portal sites, and the literature. The bizarre silk patterns were analyzed then classified into six categories: pseudo-Oriental plant pattern, pattern mingled with architectural motifs, pattern of juxtaposed with Oriental goods, abstract pattern, exuberant pattern with metal threads, and semi-naturalistic pattern. These patterns were characterized according to the following features: strangely large exotic floral patterns were undulating and asymmetrical; exotic foliage and flowers were sometimes mixed with architectural motifs or Oriental goods to easily show the Oriental influence; motifs of bizarre silk patterns were abstractly stylized; bizarre silk patterns became luxurious once more like the Baroque period; finally, floral patterns became more natural, and still exotic motifs remained in the background to maintain the bizarre silk features. These bizarre silk patterns evolved from the viewpoints of Europeans through acceptance stage, compound stage, and confluent stage.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.398-408
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• 2023

Smart clothing products can experience a decrease in performance and reliability due to various mechanical, biological, and chemical stress factors that occur throughout their life cycle. These issues can hinder consumer acceptance of the products. This study aims to enhance the reliability of smart clothing and facilitate quality control by analyzing and identifying the current status of international standardization for smart clothing and electronic textiles (e-textiles). The focus of this analysis was on the durability test methods in the use environment. Furthermore, similar standards published by different standardization organizations for durability tests were compared in depth. The study showed that a total of 27 international standards have been developed or are currently under development. The current standardization efforts mainly aim to develop functionality and durability test methods for smart clothing and e-textile products. A detailed comparison was made between two international standards (IEC 63023-204-1:2023 and AATCC TM210:2019) specifically in relation to the washing durability test method and the electrical resistance measurement standards (BS EN 16812:2016 vs AATCC EP13-2021), before and after the environmental exposure tests. Based on this comparison, several suggestions have been made and discussed for the future revision of these international standards.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.14
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• pp.145-165
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• 1990

This study examine closely conditions of costume between the Modernized period and Liberation with newspaper materials. Because newspaper generally appear society conditions in those days on rapid and across-the boad basis. The Modernized period is extremely change among history of costum (ordinance prohibiting top knots, allowance of foreign clothes putting on). Because this change have been spontaneously not by internal desired but Western input by the strong nation of imperialism to enclose Chosun, they was accepted by the general public later under the rule of Japaneses Imperialism. Consequently, study of costume play an important part periods between the Japanese annexation of Korea and Liberation. This study apply to newspaper characteric for costume, and closely examine an important costum condition of those days next time, and present costume material in those days that composed the account catalog appeared periods between the first publication(1920) of the Dong A II Bo, and in the year 1945, it is as follows. 1. Foreign clothes of men generally accept the general public on look at from form change, in the 1920's had come short Jackets and narrow throusers into fashion, in the 1930's had come trousers of generous waist band with broads shoulder and long Jackets. Catalog of Major clothes is as follows; Spring coat, Jacket, Vest, Shirt, etc. While pants had come trousers into fashion 2. Functional characteric of Foreign clothes was the possible acceptance of women's foreign clothes. It relate with much discussion to improve Korean development in those days and substitute foreign clothes for Korean clothes because of institence in those days to improve functional clothes life. 3. An improvement women's Korean clothes generally take aim at women's nipple liberation, substitute vest waist for skirt waist, appear seamless one-piece skirt of shade length, and long dress length of Jacket. 4. Children's clothes give an account of functional and sanitary conditions, handling method, washing method. 5. Clothes materials give account of foreign clothes material, artificial silk, furs, cotton fabrics, and etc. 6. Clothes management give an account of washing, keeping method, washing method of foreign clothes, and keeping of furs. 7. The hair generaly had come short hair into fashion in men's case, while accounts on long hair fashion of foreign nation effect in case of women. 8. Describing on beauty care manage primary beauty care, reform, plastic operation, and shade beauty care. Ideal beauty care deal with natural and dignified buauty care. 9. Accesaries (hat, handbag, handkerchief, gloves) change with fashion of clothes, it rapid more than clothes fashion. 10. On encouragement of abolition of white clothes and putting on dyeing clothes, because of economic defect of white clothes, psychology and beauty consequently, white clothes is on the rise abolition. In national level almost substitute dyeing clothes for control and improvement of people of all social standings consequently, dress and its ornaments conditions in those days analyzed account of Dong-A II Bo accept the foreign clothes that introduced internal country of the whole century, and substitute dyeing for white clothes. Costume condition in those days appear the mixed conditions of Korean clothes and Foreign clothes. In the 1920's is the first consideration dress and its ornaments form of Korean clothes. As later goes on foreign is given much weight in the whole clothes life. Account of foreign clothes managemental ways appear in the 1920's, while those facts prove the point that appeared the account that always dealed with concrete content of foreign fashion in the 1930's.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.8
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• pp.1181-1189
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• 2009

This research analyzes the relationship between the height of the sleeve cap and the mobility of arm movement. Ten Korean women participated as subjects. For test clothes, the AH/4+3, AH/4+1, and AH/4-1 height of the sleeve cap were varied. The sleeve circumference was adjusted according to the variation of the height of the sleeve cap. To analyze test clothing objectively, the range-of-motion of two selected movements (Arm Adduction/Abduction and Arm Flexion/Extension) was measured by Leighton flexometer and goniometer. Also, a wearer acceptability rating was examined for acceptance by the subject. Anova and Duncan's multiple range tests are used for statistical analysis. According to the results, the mobility of test clothing 2 and 3 improved 14.9% and 27.7% in Arm Adduction/Abduction, and 12.7% and 31.9% in Arm Flexion/Extension compared to the test clothing 1.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 2009

This study is intended to examine the modernization of Chinese costumes through historical events, and to analyze the characteristics of the costume modernization process. The modernization of Chinese costumes appears to have begun with the Opium Wars, and the Nanjing Treaty(1842), the Beijing Treaty(1860) and the official residence of western people in Chinese territory. Afterwards, in order to initiate change, the Chinese people themselves implemented the Westernization movement(1861-94), placing an emphasis on the westernization of external elements such as technology and form, but aspects such as costume, deeply saturated in their traditions, do not appear to have changed significantly. Despite self-empowering movements such as these, as western forces diffused deeper into the Chinese mainland, neo-intellectuals formed the axis of a revolutionary movement. A major example can be found in the Xinhai Revolution(1911) revolution, which forbade the binding of feet and shaving of frontal hair and partially implemented western formal dress. Through these factors, the modernization process of Chinese costume demonstrates characteristics of an adherence to traditional dress and partial acceptance of western attire. Through this, we may understand the modern costumes of China, which adhered more to tradition than Japan, which pursued western costumes actively within a similar period, and Korea, which rushed modernization due to Japanese authority.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.688-706
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• 2024

This study investigated the effect of self-efficacy on the usage intention of the size recommendation services, exploring the mediating roles of perceived ease of use and perceived usefulness. Moreover, it examined the moderating effects of filtering types on these relationships. Data were collected from 200 participants between December 11 and 13, 2023, using virtual scenarios and stimuli. Mediating and moderating effect analysis were performed using a process macro. As a result of path analysis and indirect effect analysis between individual variables, it was confirmed that the direct effect of self-efficacy for the size recommendation services on usage intention, and the indirect effect on usage intention through perceived ease of use and perceived usefulness were significant. Furthermore, as a result of the moderating effect analysis, it was found that the moderating effect of the filtering types was significant in the relationship between self-efficacy and perceived ease of use, between perceived ease of use and perceived usefulness, and between self-efficacy and usage intention.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.169-181
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• 2017

Objective: The aim of this study was to explore the influence of outdoor weather conditions on subjective responses during physical activity. Background: The largest difference between indoor and outdoor conditions is the existence of the sun. The heat load from the sun has an influence on the heat gain of the human body and the intense degree of solar radiation affected thermal comfort. Method: Thirty eight people were exposed to a range of climatic conditions in the UK. Weather in England does not have extremely hot and cold temperature, and the current study was conducted under warm (summer and autumn) and cool (spring and summer) climates. Measurements of the climate included air temperature, radiant temperature (including solar load), humidity and wind around the subjects. Subjective responses were taken and physiological measurements included internal body temperature, heart rate and sweat loss. Results: This study was conducted under four kinds of environmental conditions and the environmental measurement was performed in September, December, March, and June. The values for sensation, comfort, preference, and pleasantness about four conditions were from 'neutral' to 'warm', from 'not uncomfortable' to 'slightly comfortable', from 'slightly cooler' to 'slightly warmer', and from 'neither pleasant nor unpleasant' and 'slightly unpleasant', respectively. All subjective responses showed differences depending on air temperature and wind speed, and had correlations with air temperature and wind speed (p<0.05). However, subjective responses showed no differences depending on the radiant temperature. The combined effects of environmental parameters were showed on some subjective responses. The combined effects of air temperature and radiant temperature on thermal sensation and pleasantness were significant. The combined effects of metabolic rate with air temperature, wind speed and solar radiation respectively have influences on some subjective responses. In the case of the relationships among subjective responses, thermal sensation had significant correlations with all subjective responses. The largest relationship was shown between preference and thermal sensation but acceptance showed the lowest relationship with the other subjective responses. Conclusion: The ranges of air temperature, radiant temperature, wind speed and solar radiation were $6.7^{\circ}C$ to $24.7^{\circ}C$, $17.9^{\circ}C$ to $56.6^{\circ}C$, $0.84ms^{-1}$ to $2.4ms^{-1}$, and $123Wm^{-2}$ to $876Wm^{-2}$ respectively. Each of air temperature and wind speed had significant relationships with subjective responses. The combined effects of environmental parameters on subjective responses were shown. Each radiant temperature and solar radiation did not show any relationships with subjective responses but the combinations of each radiant temperature and solar radiation with other environmental parameters had influences on subjective responses. The combinations of metabolic rate with air temperature, wind speed and solar radiation respectively have influences on subjective responses although metabolic rate alone hardly made influences on them. There were also significant relationships among subjective responses, and pleasantness generally showed relatively high relationships with comfort, preference, acceptance and satisfaction. Application: Subjective responses might be utilized to predict thermal stress of human and the application products reflecting human subjective responses might apply to the different fields such as fashion technology, wearable devices, and environmental design considering human's response etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.6
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• pp.913-928
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• 2014

This study estimated a dual path model to predict consumers' intention to use a QR code virtual store by the effect of a mobile transaction system and a facilitating condition that also examined the role of experience and the use of an intention model in the context of a QR code virtual store. A longitudinal field study was conducted at selected QR code virtual stores. A questionnaire containing mobile transaction system, facilitating condition, performance expectancy, effort expectance, and intention to use was administered at two different points in time: Initial use (T1) and the second use after one month (T2). This study sampled 109 subjects who voluntarily participated in field studies twice at different time points (pooled sample=218). Participants were asked to visit at the QR code virtual store and undertake shopping tasks on their smartphones. The estimated dual path model showed that a mobile transaction system had a positive effect on performance expectancy, which influenced intention to use; however, facilitating condition had a positive effect on effort expectancy, but the effort expectance did not lead to intention to use. The effort expectance significantly also affected the performance expectance influencing intention to use QR code virtual stores. It was also found that use experience moderated the effect of mobile transaction systems on performance expectancy. The findings discussed a critical and success factor in consumer technology acceptance and use over time. A managerial implication was also discussed to capture potential users by emphasizing performance expectancy with the superiority of an innovative system or consumer facilitating condition as external resources in the introduction stage of new technology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.7
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• pp.1100-1110
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• 2010

This study investigates the attitude and intention of consumers to use customized golf gloves depending on the Technology Acceptance Model (TAM). TAM consists of perceived ease of use and perceived usefulness. To conduct the quantitative research, we collected data from 182 consumers. SPSS 14.0 was used for statistical analysis. Descriptive statistics, factor analysis, reliability analysis, t-test and path analysis were implemented. The results of this study are as follows. First, the subjects were divided into two groups with one group higher in purchase intention. The difference between the two groups was significant. The higher purchase intention group was higher in the perceived ease of use, perceived usefulness, and positive attitude toward customized golf gloves than the lower purchase intention group. In the lower group, the perceived ease of use and perceived usefulness influenced the intention to use through the attitudes of consumers. On the other hand, in the higher group, the perceived ease of use and perceived usefulness influenced the intention to use directly as well as through the attitude of consumers. Therefore, a different marketing strategy must be designed according to purchase intention in marketing innovative products.