• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.37-44
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• 2009

As the modern society has become highly industrialized and functionalized, the entry of women in public affairs has become brisk and extensive, and the studies of jackets which can satisfy the functions and designs for various activities have become important. Especially in the tailored collar which is the typical collar for female jackets, the studies such as scientific original form design, and design evaluation through analyzing functionality and sensitivity and others must be systematically carried out. In this study, therefore, the objective was placed in examining the actual state of the production of the tailored collar in the field of production first, and inquiring the general theories on the constituent elements of tailored-collar and production methods by analyzing it and comparing it with the educational tailored-collar production methods. First, in regard to the relation between the collar and the length of the backside neck of the bodice, in most cases, they were employing the method to enlarge the length of the backside neck of the bodice by shortening the length of the neck-base girth. That is, they were processing in order that the self collar band inside of the roll line and the fall of the collar can make a soft curved line. Second, when producing tailored-collar patterns, it is desirable to very the inclination according to the breath of the collar or thickness of the fabric because the stability of the inclination of the collar differs depending on the condition the collar is set, the girth of the collar edge. the broader the breath of the collar becomes, the thicker the fabric becomes, and the more the cloth is against the cold, it is necessary to make the inclination larger. Third, in the size relation between the upper collar and under collar, when sewing collars, it becomes thick and stabilized as it goes from the part in which extra pieces were put to the part in which extra pieces are not put. So you must make the upper collar larger by putting in extra pieces. The amount to be put in differs depending on characteristics of the materials.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2007

This study suggests the new technique to express the texture that copes with the demands of the times by trying to apply the new Nuno-felt technique, to the silk, the representative material for emotion, in order to provide the basic data for the development of highly value added and competitive materials in the domestic and international markets as well as to meet the demand of consumers in the high emotion age pursuing the idiosyncrasy and qualify enhancement. Nuno-felt is the felting technique that places the wool of desired thickness on the thin fabric using wools and various kinds of fabric materials and rubs them. The samples are 3 kinds of silk including plain Chiffon with different touch, Pongee and Organza and Merino Wool, the best quality wool of wools. As a result, beyond the simple surface effect from the silk showing the superior drape feature with one color and soft wool, the Nuno-felt technique created the feminine as well as masculine, classic and modem image. Furthermore, the harmony of opacity and transparency produced the new dynamic and dimensional texture with the combination of different emotions through the visual emotion of different grey colors and rough, crude and soft touch. This study suggested the possibility that the Nuno-felt technique could create the new emotional materials for the modem sense by combining the materials with different features from the wools unlike the traditional simple felt technique.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.228-238
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of chacteristics of knit fabrics on the microclimate of the skin simulating system. To determine the effect of characteristics of knit fabrics, vapor state of sweat pulse was simulated in the closed system. Different contents of fibers such as cotton, wool and polyester with different yarn size and knit types were chosen for specimens. The changes of humidity and temperature of air layer in the simulated systems were measured. Buffering indices, $K_d$ and $\beta_r$, were determined by considering $\alpha_p, \DeltaP_{max}, t_{max}, and tan\beta$. Physical properties of knit fabrics such as thickness, porosity, air resistance and moisture vapor transport were measured. Results showed that vapor pressure of wool was lower than cotton or polyester This was attributed to the hydrophilicity of wool which absorbed moisture rather quickly and retained in the knit fabric. The time to decrease vapor pressure was faster for polyester than cotton or wool. As a result, $K_d$ was in the order of wool> polye, item> cotton. $\beta_r$ of wool was rower than cotton or polyester due to its lowers porosity and slower desorption rate. For the yarn size, $K_d$ was in the order of 80's> 60's> 30's; thinner and lighter yarn showed better water vapor transport property. For knit type, buffering capacity of single jersey was better than interlock knit fabric. Statistical analysis showed that the air permeability was the most influential factor far the water vapor transport properties.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권7호
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• pp.1111-1125
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• 2010

Study is a basic analysis of a future virtual clothing system based on a comparative analysis of all the shirring, using a 3-dimensional apparel cad system. Frilled skirts shirred at the lower hemline were the subject of this study for a comparison of expression and shape of shirring. It compared the silhouette and details expressed in virtual and real skirts made of woolen fabrics and polyester satin, with different widths (1.5, 2 and 2.5 widths). It was found that the virtual skirt could not express shirring as exquisitely as the real skirt due to fabric thickness and other fabric characteristics. In addition, the increase in widths caused the frill shape to deform badly. In the case of a virtual skirt made of polyester satin, the increased multiplication factor let the frill spread out sharply (unlike the real skirt). Simulated skirts of polyester satin and woolen spread out to the sides with the sidelines of their frills hanging down markedly (unlike the real cloths) when the frills changed from 1.5 widths to 2 widths. When it came to the virtual skirt, side-line from the hip down all the way short of frill contorted with the wrinkle multiplication factor of 2 and 2.5 widths. This phenomenon was more notable in polyester satin skirts than in woolen skirts.

• Composites Research
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• 제33권1호
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• pp.13-18
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• 2020

기존 소방구조용 작업차에서 문제가 되고 있는 협소도로 진입의 어려움 및 구조를 위한 신속한 작업 전개 한계성을 극복하기 위한 목적으로 소형 구조작업차 연구가 진행되고 있으며 이에 따른 경량화 연구를 진행하였다. 본 연구에서는 소방 구조 작업차 5번 붐은 288 mm(W) × 299 mm(D) × 3,691 mm(L)이며 이에 걸리는 최대 하중은 876 kg이고, Steel Boom의 Thickness는 3 mm이다. Steel (STRENX960)을 CFRP 복합재로 변경하여 제작하기 위해 Carbon Fiber NCF (±45°, 2축)를 직조하고 이를 NCF Prepreg로 제작하였고 경량화와 강성, 강도를 극대화할 수 있는 최적설계 패턴을 제시하였다. 이 과정은 구조해석을 바탕으로 설계하였고, NCF Prepreg의 (±45°)가 비틀림에 미치는 영향을 확인했으며 적층패턴(b)로 최적설계 하였다. 기존 Steel Boom과 UD방향으로 적층한 CFRP Boom과 동등하거나 이상의 수준에 대한 적층패턴을 최적화하였고, 최종적으로 Steel 대비 약 49.6% 무게에 대한 경량화 효과를 확인하였다.

• 한국인쇄학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.31-43
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• 2002

Screen printing is a stencil process whereby ink is transferred to the substrate through a stencil supported by a fine fabric mesh. Therefore screen had a tendency to distort and swell, as ink was deposited between the fibers, and were difficult to clean. The tow importance of stencil parameters that affect print quality are stencil thread diameter and the fabric thickness because of their influence on both ink deposit and print definition. Since screen printing inks can be formulated to adhere to almost any surface, and the printing process itself can be handled almost any substrate in a wide variety of shape, screen printing is a very versatile process. The small size pronting is reproduced image used screen printing because the surface of substrates is not suited at screen printing method. In screen printing, the need of high definition printing is gradually increasing according to developing special inks. A conventional haftone, so called AM screening, is simple and easy to implement, but the haftone dot patterns by using this method are not free for the moire fringe. This paper is used densitometry and image analysis to investigate relation with printing according to screen mesh, opening size and resolution of copy in image reproduction used FM screen. We had the good result of dot gain and tone reproduction on the screen printing of high definition using FM screen.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.152-163
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• 1990

The purpose of this study is to experimentally analyze the relationship between structural characteristics of cotton fabrics and their cool-and-warm felling in order to develop more comfortable fabrics. Comfort in textile products has been emphasized as consumers preferred performance to fashion of clothing. Thermal comfort of clothing is a basic parameter of the comfort sensation which is usually represented by the cool-and-warm feeling felt by human skin. Cloo-and-warm feeling is perceived by the heat flux which transfers heat energy stored in an object to skin. We feel warm (cool) if the temperature of nerve extremity in skin ascends (descends). As cool-and-warm feeling determines the comfort sensation of clothing, it is important to develop new comfort fabrics. Although considerable works have been made on the body, clothing, and environment, there has been no research study on the structural characteristics of fabrics and their cool and warm feeling. Cool-and-warm feeling is closely related to the transient heat transfer property. This research study used the cotton fabrics manufactured in Korea as sample and measured $q_{max}$ value with thermal property measuring instrument (Thermo-Labo II type). $q_{max}$ values estimated by polynomial regression equation were compared with those observed in this study. This study also identified the structural parameters of cotton fabrics for a specific range of $q_{max}$ values. The findings of this study can be summarized as follows: 1) As the thickness, porosity and air permeability of cotton fabrics increase, $q_{max}$ value decreases. 2) As the fabric count and over factor of cotton fabrics increase, $q_{max}$ value also increases. 3) $q_{max}$ values have been estimated by simple and polynomial regression equations developed in this study. Regression curves which have been plotted by polynomial regression equations also provided with the range of structural parameters for a specific range of $q_{max}$ values of cotton fabrics. This study would be significant in that it has identified the structural Parameters for the cool-and-warm feeling of cotton fabric at $65\%$ relative humidity.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.357-362
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• 2006

This study is to evaluate the objective sensibility of the commercial lining fabrics. Five kinds of the linings were collected by adding taffetas with four kinds of fibers (polyester, nylon, rayon, and acetate) to one polyester stretch fabric. The six basic mechanical and hand properties were studied by using KES-FB system (Kawabata Evaluation System). The result of measuring the mechanical properties shows that polyester has high bending rigidity (B), that polyester-stretch has a high value of linearity of load-extension curve (LT), tensile energy (WT), tensile resilience (RT), and coefficient of friction (MIU) and a low value of bending rigidity(B), shear property, and geometrical roughness (SMD). The nylon has a high value of bending rigidity (B), shear property, and compression resilience (RC). The rayon has a high value of coefficient of friction (MIU) and linearity of compression-thickness curve (LC) and a low value of shear property, and the acetate has a low value of shear property. The result of hand value shows that polyester, nylon, and acetate are a high value of KOSHI (stiffness), NUMERI (smoothness), and FUKURAM (fullness & softness), and they feel stiff and massive, that rayon has a low value of NUMERI and FUKURAMI. The total result of hand value shows that polyester taffeta and polyester stretch fabric are about the same as the best material for the lining of a woman's dress for spring and summer, and the next thing is acetate, but nylon and rayon are somewhat inferior materials. This provides a fundamental data for the comfortable clothing production of a higher value-added product through the study on the mechanical and hand properties of the lining as well as the right side of fabrics.

• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제15권7호
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• pp.351-358
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• 2017

본 연구는, 기존의 전통적인 패션쇼를 근간으로 빠르게 발전하는 컴퓨터 그래픽 기술을 접목, 새로운 형식의 패션쇼로 최근 연구되는 디지털 패션쇼를 위한 가상 한복 제작과 관련된 연구이다. 한국의 대표적인 전통의상을 소재로, 디지털 패션쇼를 진행하기 위한 가상의 한복의 제작을 위하여 필수적으로 적용되어야 하는 재질들을 분석하고, 사실성 검증을 위하여 전문집단 그룹을 통한 사용성 통계를 진행하였다. 이를 위해 선행연구로 가상 한복 제작에 요구되는 세 가지 필수 재질인 두께, 무게 그리고 색상을 정리한 후, 3D 한복의상을 제작하여 실재 복원된 한복 의상들과 비교, 40명의 피실험자들의 평가를 기준으로 만족도를 조사하여 사용성 통계수치를 통한 분석연구를 진행하였다. 최종적으로 사용성 통계의 분석을 통한 매우 긍정적인 만족도 결과는, 향후 디지털 패션쇼 가상의복의 제작에 필요한 구체적인 재질분석 가이드라인을 제시함에 본 연구의 목적과 의의를 두었다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.151-166
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to examine the Russian abstract artist Kazimir Malevich's works during the period of absolutism and thereupon, suggest some knitwear designs practical, decorative and creative. For this purpose, the researcher reviewed domestic and foreign literature, dissertations and academic journals to determine the Russian abstract fine art and the significance of Kazimir Malevich's works in the history of arts and thereupon, examined Malevich's works or the champions of absolutism in terms of their geometric formative elements or forms and colors. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; First, paintings may be important motives for the contemporary costume designs, while being a major driving power for development of some original designs depending on artists' personal thoughts and expression techniques. Second, this study is deemed to suggest creative and original techniques and motive applications for fashion designs by introducing the elements of Kazimir Malevich's paintings into costume designs, and provide for an opportunity to suggest new values by combining arts and fashion. Third, the knit jacquard technique, one of the major techniques for the knit design works using Kazimir Malevich's absolutism works, is considered a tubular jacquard featuring the deepest sense of thickness. The intarsia technique is preferred in the recent trend for light fabric because it features clear background patterns and allows for thinner fabric. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will serve to expand the domain of expression by means of an art marketing or meeting between arts and fashion in our contemporary industries.