• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.791-803
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• 2012

This study intends to identify applicability of natural dye extracted from Aplysia kurodai, aiming to standardization of Aplysia kurodai natural dyeing through scientific validation by analyzing characteristics of pigment elements to review dyeability, colorfastness and antibacterial activity. Such material as silk fabrics that is animal fiber were used for this purpose, and derived following summarized results. UV/VIS spectrum analysis on the pigment of Aplysia kurodai that was extracted from purple gland showed that maximum absorbtion was near 540 nm. The silk fabric optimal dyeing can be achieved at a temperature of $55^{\circ}C$ with a colorant concentration of 5%. Dyed at $55^{\circ}C$ with interval of 10~90 minutes for identifying dye uptake over time to observed slow increase of dye uptake over time, and equilibrium occurred at 50 minutes. For dye uptake according to pH, while dye uptake was superior in acidity, it decreased rapidly in a base after pH 7. For color changes according to pH variation, it was reddish purple in acidity and was purplish red in a base. For color changes according to mordanting method, more clear color change had been obtained when process with aluminium pre-mordanting than non-mordanting and post-mordanting. The colorfastness to light, perspiration and washing was 1, 4~5, and 3~4 ratings respectively. The silk fabric dyed with Aplysia kurodai demonstrated excellent antimicrobial activity to Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae. The Aplysia kurodai can be used as a new colorant for the natural dyeing of silk.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.128-149
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• 2011

This study dealing with the Italian futurist and Russian constructivist costume designs which aimed for new fashion design freed from the conventional meanings of fashion and explore the artistic purpose reflected within the designs expressed differently according to cultural and regional differences in order examine the early 20th century Avant-grade costume designs. The scope of this study is limited to the 1910s to the 1930s when the Italian futurism and the Russian constructivism were originated and were most active. This monograph focused on the works of the Italian futurists, Giacomo Balla who declared the 'Manifesto delle moda minile futurista', Fortunato Depero, and Thayaht who suggested a new direction for the futurist, and on the works of the Russian constructivists Alexander Rodchenko, Varvara Stepanova and Liubov Popova. As an one method of investigated, this paper is used materials of various sources to examine their features. Futurists costume designs expressed a radical conception of progress and their source of aesthetics was dynamism. The concept of 'power' which was the basis of the futurists was incorporated in the costumes while non-symmetrical cut-outs and bright and vivid colors completed the futurist costume designs. Moreover the Russian constructivists brought advances in the field of fabric and textile designs. What was particularly interesting about the Russian constructivist costumes was that the artists worked at the textile mills themselves, directly involved in the designs and manufacturing of fabric, developing an advancement in textile and a new understanding of costume. Furthermore, many Russian artists settled in Paris, actively participating in the fashion industry, and therefore, they have greatly contributed to the development of the early 20th century Avant-garde costume designs.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.51-57
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• 2018

Herein, we present the results of the analysis of a lacquer coating fragment excavated from 'Daesungdong No.88 tomb of Gimhae'. We observed the fragment with an optical microscope and used scanning electron microscopy-energy dispersive spectroscopy (SEM-EDS) as well as Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy analysis to determine the structure of the lacquer coating and the technique used for coating. The sample was identified as a Moksim Jophy Lacquer. It is made from wood, painted with textile fabric and coated with soil clay. The SEM-EDS analysis revealed residues of bone meal at the bottom part of the sheath layer. The incorporation of bone meal in a lacquer coating layer is one of the characteristics of the Han Dynasty, and was also found in the Nangnang Region and the United Silla Dynasty. Inside the sword sheath is a specific adherent structure of silk fabric, the same type of leguminous plant found in another sword sheath excavated from the Eastern Han-tomb of Xi'an. Results constitute the latest information about lacquer ware found in the southern district of the Korean peninsula. Moreover, the findings shed light on an international relationship with Kumkwan-Kaya where the sword sheath was produced.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.504-514
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• 2021

This study attempted to extract and structure the job skills required for 3D designers, which have been recently introduced to the fashion industry. The study aimed to materialize and objectify the 3D designer's job, using a focus group interview for the survey. The 3D designer has the TD task of making 3D virtual samples using the pattern files developed in Pattern CAD. Graphic design and fabric digitization are also major tasks for the 3D designer. CLO is mainly used for 3D virtual sample production, and PixPlant, Substance, Photoshop, Cinema 4D, Daz studio, and 3ds MAX are used for image and avatar editing. As per the job skills required for 3D design work, basic knowledge about patterns and sewing, skill in 3D virtual clothing technology, ability to use various software, and English skills were considered important, in that order. In particular, the need for knowledge about patterns and sewing became more important than the skill in 3D virtual clothing technology itself. To train 3D designers, it was found that not only 3D virtual clothing software, but also education on patterns and clothing construction, CAD developer's curriculum certification system, and 3D designer qualification management were required. In addition, 3D designers are recognized as an essential job in fashion vendors, and the demand for domestic brands is increasing. The biggest limitation of the 3D virtual clothing system is the perfection of the digital fabric. Also, technical improvement is needed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.105-115
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• 2018

This paper presents an investigation into Cheollik based on 288 records about it at the homepage of The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty on the Internet. Cheollik was called in diverse names and worn by various social classes from kings to common people, but it was solidified as clothes for military officers toward the latter half of Joseon. Not only did it serve the purpose of clothes, but it also was used for a royal grant, diplomacy, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. It served the diplomatic purposes a lot especially during the reign of King Sejo and King Seongjong. Cheollik was usually made of cotton, hemp, silk, and mixed fabric with silk used most. Its major colors include white, green, red, blue, black, purple, grey, and yellow with white used most. The fabrics and colors of Cheollik became simplified toward the latter half of Joseon. Silk was most used in Cheollik for a royal grant, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. White was most used in Cheollik for kings' visit to royal tombs or their participation in ancestral rites. There were limitations with the selection of materials according to the social status and situations. It was stipulated that only Sa and Ju were used to make Cheollik for Dangsangguan and Danghaguan. Cheollik made of silk was banned for country residents and merchants. The color of Cheollik for Danghaguan was changed to blue and then red. Of military officers, only those who had a Gonsu title or higher were allowed to wear Cheollik made of silk in various colors. In the end, Cheollik was abolished for its low convenience and efficiency during the rule of King Gojong.

• Journal of Science of Art and Design
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• v.6
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• pp.203-225
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• 2004

We are sure that Abakanowicz positively assumes a position of members, which are represented the later modern fabric design. In sprite of his pervasive evaluation, we have doubt about his achievement because the preceding research is insufficient about argumentsuch as dependence on intuitive emotion study, conventional analysis of structure and insufficient inquiry of causa efficiens. We agree that basic structure of is dissipation. Though right and left symmetrical structure is similar, also that structure is different. We can't decide whether structure is unification structure, difference structure or mixture structure . We think that the time of confusing argument of his structure is changing period for disorganization trend. The result of this study confirm the research possibility about space organization with restructure analysis and verification for examining essence structure of sample text . The Thesis are concern that the different between paradigmatic appearances and syntagmatic, which exist . So, we can approach the meaning of system and find dominent point about constructional relationship on the works. The meaning of dominent point is understood about sexless trend or Androgyne, which are appeared Abakanowicz forth work period. The relationship structure which is mixed both issue show that inner issue of work is located the highest position. The paper presents confusing manufacture system, which are suggested man-woman sex and mixed meaning. The other result of this study are, 1. being known as Abakan algorism, Abakanowicz has new drafting idiom from his ancient belief. 2. we need to research the body texture of Abakanowicz with the trend of restructure of body study. 3. we need argue about gender study in relative with poster moderntheology related problem of sexlessness people and perfect sex-people.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.946-955
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to present the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume for developing 'Korean' fashion design can be accepted in general in the modern times. For this purpose, documentary studies about the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional art and Korean traditional costume were preceded. And the perception of the Korean traditional costume were studied according to Belong's two criteria, body priority/ clothes priority and open/closed. Next, the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume were re-defined. The results can be summarized as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional art are the beauty of nature, the purity, and the pleasantry. As the beauty of nature is the important one, the purity is caused by the love of nature. The pleasantry is as a way of expression. 2) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume through the documentary studies stand for as the beauty of nature, the purity, the beauty of evil's eye, the beauty of symbolism, the beauty of personality, the beauty of tragedy and the beauty of tradition. 3) Korean traditional costume are perceived as clothes priority and open. 4) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume can be re-defined as the beauty of nature, the purity, and the pleasantry. The beauty of nature comes from the 'natural' look, the exposure of the fabric as itself and the organic lines of the Korean traditional costume. The purity comes from the geometrical squared clothing form of Korean traditional costume which doesn't revive the human body form. The Pleasantry is seen the colors and motifs of costumes that have the human's hope and incantation and the exaggeration and distortion of human body form.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.101-110
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• 2008

We believe distinguishable product development to be competitive against foreign products, and realize the need to expand domestic business worldwide. In order to be competitive, we should produce fashion items that meets global taste, and at the same time contain exclusive Korean culture and emotional beauty. This article examines and creates unique textile design with the touch of Korean art. Desigus have been proceeded under the following three themes: 'Strong Ego,' 'Gorgeous Days' and 'Song Eternal Seeking Love' using Primavision Computer-aided Design ("CAD"). We have put our interestes in Korean traditional paintings called Hangukhwa. Suitable design motives had been selected and modified from the four gracious plants (bamboos, peonies etc.), and paintings of birds and flowers. Primavision, a CAD software, had been used to manipulate those desigus, and to add instant changes in color, scale, and layout. We had modified Korean traditional motives to make modem image, and had arranged layouts which can be suitable for half-drop repeat and square repeat. The use of color is essential in pattern design. Thus, we explored coloring ways for each design to meet the trends, and the final mapping had been conducted in western style of dresses. We have tried to mix Korean image of textile designs with Western clothing style, expressing hybrid in the mapping process. With global movements, we need to develop products with Korean traditional exotic taste to attract foreign consumers. Therefore, we selected symbolic motives from Korean paintings to express deep spiritual significance. We developed textile design and processed mapping on selected western designer's dress, employing current trend colors and making crossover coordination. We realized Korean painting would be an excellent source for exclusive fabric design, and tried to create a modernized design which maintains Korean ethnical identities.

• Archives of design research
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.359-368
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• 2002

Fabric art is most distinguished field among the Modern art. Among them, tapestry which begins human history is investigated more and more deeply and till now it displays with various type and exhibition. But, because of the huge scale of the working process, it requires much time and hard endeavor. After sampling, it begins main process in the present situation. But we cannot know exactly whether it goes well or not until it ends. So after fulfilled whole process, we often try new work again. Because of this reason, we devise computer simulation. With computer simulation we can preview whole working and lengthen the planning time, shorten the needless time. Simulation is made up of Scan, Drawing, Line clean up, Rendering, Parity, and Printing. Scan and Drawing can male new idea. And during the Line clean up we can make vector image and modify the image. And then rendering the image and inquiring the length and weight of yarn. Last process is printing an then making a package soft ware by means of prototype. Through these process, many producers and student can easily access to tapestry and reduce the needless time and endeavor.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

Hundertwasser's paintings have the characteristics in his works continue to emerge organical spirals, geometric pattern of squares, mysterious and gorgeous colors. This study by applying them, it has been purposed of expansion of representation outstanding artistic formative knitwear by using yarn of various textured fabrics and leather, felt, beads of the materials. The methods of this study are through the analysis of literature of Hundertwasser's paintings and art world and formative traits. It has been studied the literature of the theoretical background on general examination of knitwear and knit, felting, needle punching techniques. Conclusions from this study are as follows: The first, It could know the organic spirals and geometric square patterns and gorgeous colors of Hundertwasser's paintings are suitable as a decorative and rich motif of knitwear design. The second, It was possible unique and various texture expression of decorative patterns of Hundertwasser's paintings by expressing variety of materials of knit, felt and fabric, leather, beads. The third, It was expressed knitwear of unique texture to express Hundertwasser's image of the painting by using hand knitting, felting, needle punching, patchwork, beading of complex techniques. The forth, It was reflected well Hundertwasser's idea which was affected nature and art nouveau that all production processes are composed of handcraft techniques. It was suitable to express the naturalness of hand knit and not mechanical or artificial image. The fifth, It was analyzed lines and patterns of Hundertwasser's painting. The spiral is simultaneously constituted curve shape and area that square patterns also have devided area.