• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.5
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• pp.138-155
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• 2012

Exaggerations have always been seen in the past and present. In the past, they represented wealth and high social status, but now they are being used to express one's beauty and personality. This has led to the diversity in design through widening each person's emotions. Likewise, exaggerations have been changed from the past to the present and so will they in the future. This study focuses on proposing patterns to enhance the utility and practical use of exaggerated jacket designs and its methods are based on documents and preceded studies. Pattern making is composed of drawing patterns and showing their forms by basting - which are a technique that is explained in this study's outcome - and the basic pattern is the style of Wan Suk. Suh. Jackets are made with exaggerating factors in the women's collections of 2011 F/W and are designed for various ages. With the knowledge of structuring a jacket, anyone could easily follow the instructions. In the end, he/she could elevate the ability to express, use practically and apply this idea in general fields of fashion industry.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.679-685
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Power suit in 1980s and the images of the Power suit styles shown in 08/09 F/W, 09 S/S, 09/10 F/W and 10 S/S collections. The results of this study are as follows: 1) The aesthetic values of the Power suit in 1980s are authority, sexuality and luxury to express the power, body and wealth. Authority is represented in wide and hard shoulders with pads and dark colors with stripe and no patterns. Sexuality is represented in tight waist jacket and tight skirt. Luxury is represented in luxurious fabrics and handicraft ornaments. 2) The Power suit styles shown in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, avant-garde and ethnic images: Classic images appeared in jacket which exaggerated shoulders with pads, mini skirt, tapered pants, dark colors with stripe and check patterns, rough materials and a waist belt. Romantic images are represented in the skirt with an asymmetric hem, pastel and splendid colors, lace and silk, romantic details made with gathers and flounces and fantastic accessories. Avant-garde images appeared in the deformed jacket, unperfected skirt, special materials and exaggerated accessories. Ethnic images are represented in big silhouette forms with wide shoulders jacket and wide pants, ethnic patterns, gold, orange and other vivid colors and ethnic accessories.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.552-563
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• 2019

Jackets are regarded as an element used to judge ideas and fashion trends for the age in which they are presented. This article analyzed recent tailored jacket fashion trends by categorizing jackets according to design elements. For this, design elements of tailored jackets were categorized into silhouette, collar and lapel, shoulder and sleeve, and decorative elements. We collected and categorized the changes of 491 jackets that have appeared in collections over the past 5 years. The results showed shoulder and sleeve changes (36.25%), silhouette changes (33.4%), lapel and color changes (12.6%), decorative element changes (11.2%), and no changes (6.5%). Jacket forms with changed shoulders and sleeves appeared as styles that have laterally or vertically expanded the shoulder and arm hole with the production of various sleeve forms. Silhouette changes were expressed through forms such as exaggerated silhouettes of oversized-clothing, silhouettes made through cutting or layering, and the polarization of length. Forms with a changed collar and lapel appeared with polarization trends in which lapels dramatically grow larger or narrower, diverse frontal adjustments using no-collar designs, and the utilization of shawl-collars; in addition, forms with changed decorative elements were expressed with layered decorations such as pockets or collar add-ons, adjustment changes using buttons, ribbons or zippers, and various trimmings. The analysis results show that modern female tailored jackets are being made to realize an exaggerated physical beauty of shoulder, sleeve and torsos to maximize decorative effects through new attempts in design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.59-71
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• 2011

As an exaggerated-shoulder becomes a growing trend women's clothing, the crescent shaped sleeve with parallel style lines in the arm hole is a highly used women's sleeve pattern. This study develops and provides an applicable method for making the crescent shaped power shoulder sleeve. An efficient basic method for making the 2 piece crescent shaped sleeve was developed and the sensory appearance test was carried out with experimental clothes. There are two principles for making the crescent shaped sleeve: having a style line in the sleeve and pasting part of the cut arm hole of the bodice to the sleeve. The latter would be more convenient for a 2 piece sleeve, mostly used for jackets. The crescent shaped sleeve used in power shoulder jackets should set the shoulder angle as you wish to extend and raise the shoulder point of the bodice and sleeve to the same height. For a stronger power shoulder image, a 3 piece sleeve has a better appearance. Also, the height of the shoulder has to be enhanced with a shoulder pad for a more stable sleeve.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.194-206
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• 2016

This study analyzed jackets by Alexander McQueen that have always pleased customers with traditional tailoring via every season's collection. This study categorized and then analyzed jackets by components such as silhouette, jacket length, collar, lapel, sleeve, shoulder line, and closure methods. To achieve the research goal, the study referred to photographs of 501 jackets introduced in signature brand collections by Alexander McQueen between 1996 and 2010. The analysis results on McQueen's jackets with the general components of the clothes indicated that the frequency of traditional tailoring components (such as lapels, tight sleeves, natural shoulder lines, and a button closing method) was higher than the frequency of designs of dramatic, deconstructive patterns examined by previously-conducted research. This shows that Alexander McQueen was cognizant to the responsibilities as a tailor and the basics of tailoring when developing jacket designs. This study also confirmed how McQueen enjoyed adding exaggerated jacket design components by making various use of details that emphasize drastic shapes like the hourglass silhouette, wing collar (that covers the shoulders), peaked lapel collar, kimono sleeve, bell sleeve, crescent shoulder, and pagoda shoulder.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.161-172
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• 2015

In this study, characteristics of modern fur fashion were reviewed and aesthetic characteristics shown in fur fashion were analyzed. The results of this study are as follow. Aesthetic characteristics shown in fur fashion between 1980s and 2000s are conspicuousness, sensuality, elegance, activity, humor and abnormality. Conspicuousness was displayed in oversized fur coat in vivid leopard pattern, mink coat trimmed with rich fox fur or leopard patterned fur jacket in hot pink. Sensuality was displayed in white and gray soft mink coat worn over mini dress, soft mink jacket which is short enough to expose legs or soft fox best accentuating chest and arms. Elegance was displayed in soft fox coat in silver, luxurious mink coat with slim silhouette that flows with body line or silver bolero made of mink and silk with slim silhouette. Activity was presented in mink pullover with loose silhouette or rabbit jacket that emphasized functionality by having zippers or hem made of rubber. Humor was presented in unique and humorous patterned fur jacket or exaggerated and unique form of fox bolero. Abnormality was presented in mink jacket made of combining alien material with deformed proportion and form or outer that emphasized vague form by using long and big fox fur.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.183-196
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• 2016

The purpose of this research is to find out the characteristics of sexuality expressed in the contemporary modern fashion jacket, especially designer Thom Browne. Thom Browne is a very successful fashion brand that has focused on design of extraordinary theme. In the research methodology, the analysis was carried out over a total of 862 work pieces in the collection of S/S, F/W, RESORT, PRE-FALL from 2010 to 2016. The characteristics of the contemporary expressions of sexualities can be subdivided into four separate categories. First, The demolition is inflated retail, exaggerated shoulder silhouettes, such as short sleeve jacket is mainly used in the form of a women's match with each other and expressed by different materials applied to men. Female jackets are designed for the silhouette to highlight the strong masculine image to highlight additional detail on the chest or vice versa, to express women's jacket to distort the female. Secondly, Sensuality is designed the body of a male was represented by a design that gives a greater masculinity was expressed that the interpretation of the male gender in detail jacket sleeves and wrap the exposed areas of the important men of fashion. Women's jacket by using a see-through material, mainly sensory Castle outward to reveal the concealed body of the female form a natural curve shows the feminine sensuality. Lastly, Incongruity is inadequate representation by sex of clothing to match the jacket and skirt in women's wear it is also unsuitable for revealing gender as male by applying soot forms. The study attempts to find the meaning in that this presents the direction of the creative development of the modern fashion design based on the aesthetic characteristics of Thom Browne fashion appearing in the modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.125-134
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of power-shoulder jacket shown in 08/09 F/W and 09/10 F/W London, Paris, Milan, New York collection and extract main expression words for development of semantic differential scales of visual image according to the change in shoulder angle and width of power-shoulder jacket. The result of this study is as follows. Power-shoulder jacket which were worn by 1980 business women have similar cutting with men's suit jacket, but have characteristics of exaggerating the body figure as exaggerated shoulder with pad and tight waist like an inverted triangle silhouette. Power-shoulder jackets shown in collections used glossy and glittering material and dark colors and formed slim silhouette with matches of shoulder line of temperate senses and casual wear. Like this, the power-shoulder jacket was expanded to daily casual wear from traditional formal wear. Main expression words of visual image of jackets according to the changes in angle and width of shoulder differ greatly depending on the expansion degree of angle and width of shoulder. Changes in shoulder angle may look tense, stiff and too much according to the amount of changes. However, it also has the image of sharp but dignified and charismatic. Also, it helps to show body figure more efficiently like being slim and looking taller. Related to the current trend emphasizing shoulder among women, it is evaluated to be stylish and trendy. When the expansion degree is not too much, changes in shoulder width partly show slim and slender waist under the influence of wider shoulder with basic tailored jacket image. However, when the expansion degree is enlarged, image related to the body figure is more definite compared to other visual images.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.73-85
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to understand what the Glam Style is, focus on the movie "Velvet Goldmine". The Glam Style is refered early 1970s Glam rockers' costume, typified by silver lurex, corksoled platform, men in make-up, personified, for example, by David Bowie, Marc Bolan, New York Dolls, Roxy Music and Iggy Pop. To approach the Glam Style comprehensively, I have divided the formative background of Glam Style into the improvement technology, the advent of the young generation and the diffusion of mass media, the rock music fever and influence on Pop art. Following is the result of analyzing of the character in the movie. First, Brian Slade has the flamboyant transsexual image by skin-tight space suit, glitter pants, lurex, satin and sequined stretch fabrics, vivid color, gauze make-up, feather boa. Second, Curt Wild expresses the outrageous sexual image by black leather jacket, emphasized black eyes make-up. Third, Mandy Slade appears the exaggerated and frivolous image by gold leopard patterned one piece, fur coat, ornamented with beads, tropical make-up, spangles and the costume jewelry. Forth, Auther Stuart has the complex image by black leather jacket, velvet jacket, skin-tight bold shirt, glitter pants, glitter make-up, silk scarf, cherry-red sunglasses. The characteristics meaning of Glam Style implied in this formative characteristic could be presented as the experimental expression of androgynous, the hordes of outrageous alien and kitsch parody.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.19-28
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• 2020

This study investigated the annual frequency and clothing type by extracting puff sleeves designs from overseas fashion collections from S/S and F/W 2017 to S/S and F/W 2019. Specifically, it analyzed production characteristics and pattern methods by the type of puff sleeve design, and found the following: In terms of the percentage of puff sleeves by season, S/S 2019 was the highest. Since Newtro, with a 1990s sensitivity, was the mainstream trend during the S/S 2019, power puff sleeves, a signature of the Newtro style, accounted for the greatest portion of this design feature. In terms of the type of clothes with puff sleeves, 'dress' (54.3%) was the highest, followed by 'shirts/blouse' (27.5%), 'jacket/coat' (12.5%), and 'padded coat/jacket' (5.7%). Specifically, puff sleeve patterns were found mostly in the 'dress' category, more than 47% every season, while the figures were more than 23%, 9.3%, and 2.6% in 'shirts/blouse', 'jacket/coat' and 'padded coat/jacket', respectively. In other words, puff sleeve designs were more common in 'dress' or 'shirts/blouse' than in a 'padded coat/jacket'. In general, the shoulder length is reduced to prevent the shoulders from looking broader because of puffs. In contrast, recent puff-sleeve styles differ from those introduced by modern fashion designers in that they have drop shoulders with puffs attached. Furthermore, as constructive and over-exaggerated sleeve patterns appeared, puffs were applied to diverse sleeve styles including mutton leg and Mameluke styles. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles and serve as the basis for further studies on the configuration methods of puff sleeves. This study will be used in various ways, including as educational material on sleeve patterns. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of puff sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.