• 복식
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• 제47권
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• pp.125-142
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• 1999

Dancing along with mankind has existed in various ways form old age to the present. This dancing combined with artistic meaning is called the art of dancing. This study is mainly about the functions decorations and expressions of dancing costume and the claracteristics of the costumes by the 20th century designers Leon bakst Oskar Schlemer Pablo Picasso. The dancing costume were not so much different from those of the public from old age to middle age. In 18th and 19th centuries the length of the cotstumes become short from the knee to the thigh. The functions have much to do with the development of dancing for example the appearance of toeshoes. The costumes are designed not to prevent the movements of dancers smooth line in old age and ladylike vend high-blown line in the 18th and 19th centuries. Cotton and hemp textiles are turning into the transparent forms such as lace and gauge. The personal ornaments earings and necklaces have change into the pattern with wings and tassels. The dancing costumes of Leon Bakst Oskar Schlemer and Pablo Picasso are designed after the due consideration of body shape. Bakst focused on the beauty of smooth lines with splendid colors and decorations. Schlemer analyzed the body abstractly and metaphysically and expressed it with detaile and simple lines. Picasso emphasized cubic forms with cubism and expressed the characteristics of costumes with clear colors and smooth curved line. Bakst Schlemer and Picasso made the early 20th century the age of functional dancing costumes putting a light on the concept of space and foundation for the modern dancing costumes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.595-603
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• 2015

The influence of Japonism, which is the post-mid-$19^{th}$ century phenomenon of appreciating and preferring the Japanese style that manifested all across Western art, started to grow as a result of the active open-door policy of Japan at this time. As all areas of Japanese arts and culture, such as paintings, sculptures and theater plays, influenced Europe and America, this influence developed into a cultural phenomenon that was reflected even in fashion. The characteristic elements of the kimono first expanded from Paris and showed a similar silhouette to that of the traditional kimono in the early $20^{th}$ century, but towards the middle and the end of the century, kimono sleeves that were connected as one piece without a connecting seam line between the sleeve and bodice started to appear. The foundation of this research focuses on the design characteristics of kimono sleeves that can be seen in $20^{th}$-century fashion, and five varying kimono sleeve jackets and coats based on these formative characteristics were designed. Each design had a gusset design added, which improved the external and mobility problems inherent in kimono sleeve patterns, while at the same time serving as a proposal for new design element applications. Additionally, through various changes to and attempts at designs using the kimono sleeve as a limiting factor, new design possibilities were explored.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.439-446
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• 2008

High Tech Design manner is a design concept that had been constantly discussed in constitution process of the West art history and modem ideology and had been experimented in industry, having started from futurism and structuralism in the early 20th century through Kinetic Art & Technology Art and up to now. High Tech Design had a great influence also on Post Modernism and more important is that this manner of design will be existing continually in the future too. From the modem times when machine civilization started, the artist and designers expressed a utopia will showing the future world with help of High Tech Design and modem people are realizing technology images as a utopia, in the space and material presented by this high tech design. And this utopia imply the images of dynamic power, speed making a voyage in universe, dream of future, hope, mass production, earth's environment, wealth etc. High Tech furniture was lightly designed by using thin steel wire, structure stressing the metallic characteristic and tempered glass, and it was used for presenting a convenient interior space visually, and with that it can make a unified sense in High Tech interior space, and a contrary effect compared with minimal space. High Tech Design equipped with glass and metal materials looking inappropriate for our interior space due to their sharp and cold image has been regularly used as living furniture, not only decoration function, and then there must be reasons for that. This study intends to research how High Tech Design has been changed and developed in the design history & West art history from the early 20th century, and to present it's value of development as data orienting, namely a direction for the industry of the next-generation and furniture design.

• 복식
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• 제54권7호
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• pp.41-54
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• 2004

This study purposed to apply function form content, the three concepts that have been discussed by many philosophers since ancient times, to fashion design. Specific research goals are : first, to define fashion design based on the three concepts : and second, to examine how each of the three concepts function-oriented, form-oriented and content-oriented design have been expressed in women's fashion in the $20^{th} century. For these purposes. the author considered Morris' semiotics, which is the theoretical background of the three concepts, reviewed previous researches in design area, and applied the findings to fashion design. According to the result of applying the threefold structure of semiotics. which is the theoretical background of the three concepts, the pragmatic dimension of fashion design comprehends all functional rules related to the use of dress such as body motion and protection, health and safety. air flow and durability, and its syntactic dimension comprehend all the formal elements of visual design such as the structure, shape, line, color and material of dress. The semantic dimension of fashion design includes the symbolic meanings of dress expressed by emotion, sentiment and images. The three dimensions exist interdependently with one another. According to the result of considering the characteristics of the three concepts in the scope of women's fashion in the $20^{th} century. function-oriented design is characterized by practicality and simplicity, and has been expressed as the fashion of functionalism in the 1920s, that of minimalism in the 1960s, and the basic style from 1970s to 1980s, 1990s and the present. Form-oriented design has pursued aestheticism, putting stress upon form, and has been expressed with organic shapes imitating patterns found in nature in the 1950s and with optical art fashion in the 1960s. Content-oriented design attaches importance to transmission of delicate meanings related to the mental world of human beings, and is represented with symbolic forms. Such a characteristic has been expressed in fashion in the early 20th century influenced by surrealism and, with various types of design breaking established forms as well as metaphors and humors that characterize design in the late 20th century.

• 조형예술학연구
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• 제3권
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• pp.87-144
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• 2001

This study looks into historical genealogy of autonomy in art criticism on modernism and presents the view of the judgment and correction about that. A matter of autonomy in art appeared in the attempt to totally reconsider and upset the theory of 'Mimesis' or 'Representation' which was the basis of traditional aesthetic theory. In the traditional theory of representation, they assumed primary image exists first and then tried to obtain visual similarity to it through art works. However, in the theory of autonomy in modernism, they maintained the reduction to pure form' or medium', regarding what art works represents and how similar to primary image are not the true essence of art. In the early 20th century, C. Bell laid the foundation stone of the theory of Formalism', providing that a matter of autonomy is significant form', which is the combination of lines and colors Aesthetic autonomy theory came to a climax by C. Greenberg, who systemized art criticism on modernism in the middle 20th century. According to his theory, the pursuit of the essence of form resulted in the specificity of medium' and flatness. They thought that the autonomy of art would be achieved by eliminating outward social factors from art works. This theory ended by Minimalism preventing the instructive function of art work and only emphasizing its material property. Since the middle 20th century, the autonomy theory was confronted with the limit and intense attack because it resulted in this fixed canon and materialism, so they began laying emphasis on those extrinsic factors around art works such as human life, society, history, and so on. This study focuses on arguing and complementing the limit of autonomy such as the adhesive and fixed canon, and then defining the more dynamic area of it. For this, first, I introduced the view of T. J. Clark and T. Crow who criticized the aesthetic autonomy theory. They denied the transcendental structure of form, and found form only in the association with substantial life and society. And they insisted the dynamism of form by emphasizing form as a result of negation insisted by avant-garde. Second, I researched the view of A. C, Danto and M. Fried, who complemented the traditional autonomy theory. They made autonomy emerge from the fixation of form like flatness through connecting essentialism with historical view. In conclusion, I insist that autonomic position of art make it possible to connect or mediate between material form and human or social elements. Therefore, autonomy should not be reduced to the axis of form or that of society but make interaction between two heterogeneous axes.

• 만화애니메이션 연구
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• 통권32호
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• pp.315-333
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• 2013

본 연구는 오늘날의 혼합현실 기술이 갑자기 등장한 것이 아니라 20세기 영상예술과 인터랙티브 아트에서 그 본격적인 단초를 찾아볼 수 있음을 탐구하고자 한다. 먼저 사진예술의 경우 평면에 입체를 표현하고 현실과 가상의 이미지를 혼합하여 혼합현실을 드러낸다. 포토그램은 2차원 평면이미지와 3차원 입체감을 동시에 느끼게 하였고, 포토몽타주는 다양한 사진을 결합하여 현실과 가상을 혼합하였다. 다음으로 영화에서는 오브제와 CG를 활용하여 가상과 현실을 결합하려 시도했다. 초기영화는 필름과 실물 오브제를 합성하였고, 컴퓨터 기술이 발전함에 따라 실사 이미지 위에 오브제 CG를 혼합하다가 배경 CG의 합성으로 나아갔다. 마지막으로 원격현전예술은 현실과 가상, 주체와 객체의 경계를 허물어 혼합현실의 새로운 가능성을 시도했다. 현실 속의 가상공간과 가상속의 현실공간을 오가거나 원거리 참여자의 원격제어로 혼합현실을 재현한다. 앞으로 혼합현실의 발전을 위해서 영상예술과 인터랙티브 아트의 참조는 더욱 필요할 것이다.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제27호
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• pp.120-127
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of space design of Isamu Noguchi's works barred on the stage sets and environmental designs. From the end of 19th century, space which was begun to be studied about in architects has continued to be researched by not only scientists but artists. Recently, space Is expressed in free and new forms due to diversity of societies and advancement of technology, As a result, space has become an essential part in art and is used in the titles of many art exhibitions. This study scrutinizes space in Isamu Noguchi's works. No other 20th century artist has as clear and progressive space conception as Noguchi's. His notion of modern art was modified through space in the tradition of cubism and Russian Constructivism and Bauhaus. Combined with his experience in the traditional Japanese houses and gardens, these influences led toward a broadened conception of sculpture as the creation of living space. These modernist's characteristics are found in his early expression of stage sets for choreographer Martha Graham, and they would lead to a wide range of design activities, from gardens and interiors to fountains and furniture. Isamu Noguchi had created a body of work that crossed the boundary between fine and applied art as a sculptor, and as an environmental designer.

• 자연과학논문집
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• 제7권
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• pp.121-131
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• 1995

오리엔탈리즘은 20세기 초에 스타일의 변화에서 시작되었다. 현대성은 역사적 개념이전의 거대한 변화의 흐름을 통해 이해될 수 있다. 서양에 있어 스타일의 변화는 동양적, 이국적 취미를 가진 예술가에 의해 시작되었다. 이것은 외형적으로 일본, 모로코, 북아프리카에 대한 외형의 재현이었다. 20세기 양식의 흐름은 표현주의, 큐비즘, 쉬르 뤼얼리즘, 팝아트로 이어진다. 그러나 오리엔탈리즘은 후에 원시주의로 보여지는 에그조티즘 이후 20세기 변화의 원천이 되었다. 현대복식에서는 신체의식을 변화시킨 뽈 뿌와레의 작품과 관련지어 본다. 그는 이브 생 로랑, 샤넬, 발렌시아가와 같은 이미지 창조자였다. 당시 러시아 발레, 야수파, 생생한 색상은 일련의 현대복식의 배경이 되었다. 부드럽고 유연한 신체, 비치는 스타킹, 미나레 튜닉, 터번 등은 오리엔탈 이미지의 시작이었다. 현대복식과 현대 조형은 역사적 개념이전에 미적 기초의 변화에서 비롯된 것이다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.25-37
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• 2005

This is a study on the origin of fashion imaging. First of all, 1 looked into the history of French fashion printmaking from late 16th century to early 19th century. Then studied the changes in the characteristics of context and form over the different periods and summarized each concept. At the same time, I looked into the process of fashion magazine evolving from fashion printmaking. In order to find out how fashion printmaking dealt with the characteristics of fashion media, 1 researched the commercial environment of fashion printmaking and reorganized the methodology of its media's role. Such analysis and results helped to reach a definition on how to regulate fashion printmaking. Fashion imaging was sparked by a small curiosity. As people began to be rage over new things, it came to introduce the fashion leaders of the public combined with the attributes of trend. At times when changes were so big that they were unpredictable, it itself became a fashion leader. Then a fashion creator emerges and it's function changes to that of a communication media. Moreover, the regular issuance of fashion printmaking implemented the concept of trend cycle and fashion imaging completely fulfilled the conditions of a communication media. The massive increase in the production of fashion printmaking and magazine contributed to the spread of fashion and the diffusion of printmaking lead to mutual complementation and synergy necessitated by fashion. Thus, the democratization of fashion and the commercialization of printmaking art occurred at the same time.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.37-53
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• 1999

On the turning paradigm in the early part of the 20th century, the change of behavior patterns naturally had influence on arts based it. Also the furniture designs was formed new style by interaction between paintings and sculptures and architectures. In this study, it was focused on Art-Deco movement that was started in 1920's France and was widely developed. Besides it was found out principles and characters of this style, and was made analysis and sense of the characteristic about formative language of Art-Deco on the relation with contemporary fine art and architecture. As the result, the origin of Art-Deco is characterized by three categories : abstraction, mystery and symbolism. The Art-Deco furniture design symbolized by the desire to pursue both splendor and elegance is French style pragmatism in progress toward Modern design.