• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.125-142
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• 1999

Dancing along with mankind has existed in various ways form old age to the present. This dancing combined with artistic meaning is called the art of dancing. This study is mainly about the functions decorations and expressions of dancing costume and the claracteristics of the costumes by the 20th century designers Leon bakst Oskar Schlemer Pablo Picasso. The dancing costume were not so much different from those of the public from old age to middle age. In 18th and 19th centuries the length of the cotstumes become short from the knee to the thigh. The functions have much to do with the development of dancing for example the appearance of toeshoes. The costumes are designed not to prevent the movements of dancers smooth line in old age and ladylike vend high-blown line in the 18th and 19th centuries. Cotton and hemp textiles are turning into the transparent forms such as lace and gauge. The personal ornaments earings and necklaces have change into the pattern with wings and tassels. The dancing costumes of Leon Bakst Oskar Schlemer and Pablo Picasso are designed after the due consideration of body shape. Bakst focused on the beauty of smooth lines with splendid colors and decorations. Schlemer analyzed the body abstractly and metaphysically and expressed it with detaile and simple lines. Picasso emphasized cubic forms with cubism and expressed the characteristics of costumes with clear colors and smooth curved line. Bakst Schlemer and Picasso made the early 20th century the age of functional dancing costumes putting a light on the concept of space and foundation for the modern dancing costumes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.595-603
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• 2015

The influence of Japonism, which is the post-mid-$19^{th}$ century phenomenon of appreciating and preferring the Japanese style that manifested all across Western art, started to grow as a result of the active open-door policy of Japan at this time. As all areas of Japanese arts and culture, such as paintings, sculptures and theater plays, influenced Europe and America, this influence developed into a cultural phenomenon that was reflected even in fashion. The characteristic elements of the kimono first expanded from Paris and showed a similar silhouette to that of the traditional kimono in the early $20^{th}$ century, but towards the middle and the end of the century, kimono sleeves that were connected as one piece without a connecting seam line between the sleeve and bodice started to appear. The foundation of this research focuses on the design characteristics of kimono sleeves that can be seen in $20^{th}$-century fashion, and five varying kimono sleeve jackets and coats based on these formative characteristics were designed. Each design had a gusset design added, which improved the external and mobility problems inherent in kimono sleeve patterns, while at the same time serving as a proposal for new design element applications. Additionally, through various changes to and attempts at designs using the kimono sleeve as a limiting factor, new design possibilities were explored.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.439-446
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• 2008

High Tech Design manner is a design concept that had been constantly discussed in constitution process of the West art history and modem ideology and had been experimented in industry, having started from futurism and structuralism in the early 20th century through Kinetic Art & Technology Art and up to now. High Tech Design had a great influence also on Post Modernism and more important is that this manner of design will be existing continually in the future too. From the modem times when machine civilization started, the artist and designers expressed a utopia will showing the future world with help of High Tech Design and modem people are realizing technology images as a utopia, in the space and material presented by this high tech design. And this utopia imply the images of dynamic power, speed making a voyage in universe, dream of future, hope, mass production, earth's environment, wealth etc. High Tech furniture was lightly designed by using thin steel wire, structure stressing the metallic characteristic and tempered glass, and it was used for presenting a convenient interior space visually, and with that it can make a unified sense in High Tech interior space, and a contrary effect compared with minimal space. High Tech Design equipped with glass and metal materials looking inappropriate for our interior space due to their sharp and cold image has been regularly used as living furniture, not only decoration function, and then there must be reasons for that. This study intends to research how High Tech Design has been changed and developed in the design history & West art history from the early 20th century, and to present it's value of development as data orienting, namely a direction for the industry of the next-generation and furniture design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.7
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• pp.41-54
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• 2004

This study purposed to apply function form content, the three concepts that have been discussed by many philosophers since ancient times, to fashion design. Specific research goals are : first, to define fashion design based on the three concepts : and second, to examine how each of the three concepts function-oriented, form-oriented and content-oriented design have been expressed in women's fashion in the $20^{th} century. For these purposes. the author considered Morris' semiotics, which is the theoretical background of the three concepts, reviewed previous researches in design area, and applied the findings to fashion design. According to the result of applying the threefold structure of semiotics. which is the theoretical background of the three concepts, the pragmatic dimension of fashion design comprehends all functional rules related to the use of dress such as body motion and protection, health and safety. air flow and durability, and its syntactic dimension comprehend all the formal elements of visual design such as the structure, shape, line, color and material of dress. The semantic dimension of fashion design includes the symbolic meanings of dress expressed by emotion, sentiment and images. The three dimensions exist interdependently with one another. According to the result of considering the characteristics of the three concepts in the scope of women's fashion in the $20^{th} century. function-oriented design is characterized by practicality and simplicity, and has been expressed as the fashion of functionalism in the 1920s, that of minimalism in the 1960s, and the basic style from 1970s to 1980s, 1990s and the present. Form-oriented design has pursued aestheticism, putting stress upon form, and has been expressed with organic shapes imitating patterns found in nature in the 1950s and with optical art fashion in the 1960s. Content-oriented design attaches importance to transmission of delicate meanings related to the mental world of human beings, and is represented with symbolic forms. Such a characteristic has been expressed in fashion in the early 20th century influenced by surrealism and, with various types of design breaking established forms as well as metaphors and humors that characterize design in the late 20th century.

• Journal of Science of Art and Design
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• v.3
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• pp.87-144
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• 2001

This study looks into historical genealogy of autonomy in art criticism on modernism and presents the view of the judgment and correction about that. A matter of autonomy in art appeared in the attempt to totally reconsider and upset the theory of 'Mimesis' or 'Representation' which was the basis of traditional aesthetic theory. In the traditional theory of representation, they assumed primary image exists first and then tried to obtain visual similarity to it through art works. However, in the theory of autonomy in modernism, they maintained the reduction to pure form' or medium', regarding what art works represents and how similar to primary image are not the true essence of art. In the early 20th century, C. Bell laid the foundation stone of the theory of Formalism', providing that a matter of autonomy is significant form', which is the combination of lines and colors Aesthetic autonomy theory came to a climax by C. Greenberg, who systemized art criticism on modernism in the middle 20th century. According to his theory, the pursuit of the essence of form resulted in the specificity of medium' and flatness. They thought that the autonomy of art would be achieved by eliminating outward social factors from art works. This theory ended by Minimalism preventing the instructive function of art work and only emphasizing its material property. Since the middle 20th century, the autonomy theory was confronted with the limit and intense attack because it resulted in this fixed canon and materialism, so they began laying emphasis on those extrinsic factors around art works such as human life, society, history, and so on. This study focuses on arguing and complementing the limit of autonomy such as the adhesive and fixed canon, and then defining the more dynamic area of it. For this, first, I introduced the view of T. J. Clark and T. Crow who criticized the aesthetic autonomy theory. They denied the transcendental structure of form, and found form only in the association with substantial life and society. And they insisted the dynamism of form by emphasizing form as a result of negation insisted by avant-garde. Second, I researched the view of A. C, Danto and M. Fried, who complemented the traditional autonomy theory. They made autonomy emerge from the fixation of form like flatness through connecting essentialism with historical view. In conclusion, I insist that autonomic position of art make it possible to connect or mediate between material form and human or social elements. Therefore, autonomy should not be reduced to the axis of form or that of society but make interaction between two heterogeneous axes.

• Cartoon and Animation Studies
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• s.32
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• pp.315-333
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• 2013

This study aims to investigate that today's Mixed Reality Technology did not appear suddenly but has its beginnings in 20th century Visual and Interactive Art. First, Photographic Art expressed three-D on the two-dimensional plane and mixed images of reality and virtuality. Photogram made people experience both two-dimensional images and three-dimensional effects concurrently, and Photomontage combined various photos and mixed reality and virtuality. Next, Cinema tried to combine virtuality and reality using objets and CG. Early Cinema composed films and real objets. As computer technology developed, Cinema composed objet CG on real images and then tried background CG compositing. Finally, Telepresence Art tried a new possibility of Mixed Reality breaking the boundary between reality and virtuality, subject and object. It oscillates between virtual space in reality and real space in virtuality, or represents Mixed Reality by remote control of long distance participants. In the future, for the development and direction of Mixed Reality, there will be more need of referring to Visual and Interactive Art.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• no.27
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• pp.120-127
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of space design of Isamu Noguchi's works barred on the stage sets and environmental designs. From the end of 19th century, space which was begun to be studied about in architects has continued to be researched by not only scientists but artists. Recently, space Is expressed in free and new forms due to diversity of societies and advancement of technology, As a result, space has become an essential part in art and is used in the titles of many art exhibitions. This study scrutinizes space in Isamu Noguchi's works. No other 20th century artist has as clear and progressive space conception as Noguchi's. His notion of modern art was modified through space in the tradition of cubism and Russian Constructivism and Bauhaus. Combined with his experience in the traditional Japanese houses and gardens, these influences led toward a broadened conception of sculpture as the creation of living space. These modernist's characteristics are found in his early expression of stage sets for choreographer Martha Graham, and they would lead to a wide range of design activities, from gardens and interiors to fountains and furniture. Isamu Noguchi had created a body of work that crossed the boundary between fine and applied art as a sculptor, and as an environmental designer.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.7
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• pp.121-131
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• 1995

Orientalism showed in early 20th century as change of Style. Modern characteristics is understanded through big stream of change before historical conception. Change of style in West began by artist having oriental and exotic taste. These are mimesis of outershape about Japanese, Moroco, north Africa etc. Theses are called chinoiserie & turquise taste. Stream of 20th century style is continued expressionism. Cubism, Sur realism, Pop Art etc. but in my thesis orientalism is caused change of 20th Century after exotism (after showed as Primitivism ). In modern costume, concerned works of Paul Poiret changed body concious. He's a image creator as Yve St. Laurent, Chanel, Balenciaga. At that time Russia Ballet, Fauvist, vivid colors are back ground of series of modern costume. Soft and sleek body, transparent stocking, minaret tunic, turban is begin of oriental image. Modern costume and modern art are begins as change of aesthetic taste before historical conception.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.25-37
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• 2005

This is a study on the origin of fashion imaging. First of all, 1 looked into the history of French fashion printmaking from late 16th century to early 19th century. Then studied the changes in the characteristics of context and form over the different periods and summarized each concept. At the same time, I looked into the process of fashion magazine evolving from fashion printmaking. In order to find out how fashion printmaking dealt with the characteristics of fashion media, 1 researched the commercial environment of fashion printmaking and reorganized the methodology of its media's role. Such analysis and results helped to reach a definition on how to regulate fashion printmaking. Fashion imaging was sparked by a small curiosity. As people began to be rage over new things, it came to introduce the fashion leaders of the public combined with the attributes of trend. At times when changes were so big that they were unpredictable, it itself became a fashion leader. Then a fashion creator emerges and it's function changes to that of a communication media. Moreover, the regular issuance of fashion printmaking implemented the concept of trend cycle and fashion imaging completely fulfilled the conditions of a communication media. The massive increase in the production of fashion printmaking and magazine contributed to the spread of fashion and the diffusion of printmaking lead to mutual complementation and synergy necessitated by fashion. Thus, the democratization of fashion and the commercialization of printmaking art occurred at the same time.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.37-53
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• 1999

On the turning paradigm in the early part of the 20th century, the change of behavior patterns naturally had influence on arts based it. Also the furniture designs was formed new style by interaction between paintings and sculptures and architectures. In this study, it was focused on Art-Deco movement that was started in 1920's France and was widely developed. Besides it was found out principles and characters of this style, and was made analysis and sense of the characteristic about formative language of Art-Deco on the relation with contemporary fine art and architecture. As the result, the origin of Art-Deco is characterized by three categories : abstraction, mystery and symbolism. The Art-Deco furniture design symbolized by the desire to pursue both splendor and elegance is French style pragmatism in progress toward Modern design.