• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.113-118
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• 1998

Clothing shape is principally described in seven factors that are composed of clothing design, clothing material, clothing size, pattern design, sewing method and body motion etc.. The aims of this study was to measurement out-line space-shape variation of clothing fitness with somato type by using the image processing. The subjects for direct anthropometric measurements were 248 female college students aged from 19 to 22. The data were statistically analyzed by principal analysis and cluster analysis. The results were obtained three somato type. Also I made skirts in order to analyzed to the out-line space-shape variation of clothing fitness with body. The effect of somato type on the shape of flare skirts was determined by the out-line space-shape variation of clothing fitness with body. The out-line space-shape variation of clothing fitness with body was observed between the node number and amplitudes of clothing wave form and node number was determined at the maxim of space-shape amplitude, and the space-shape amplitudes have related with aspect ratio of cross-sectional shape. Results for flare skirts show changes in amplitude and mean with fabrics, somato type. therefore gray-level histogram are correlated with changes out-line space-shape, differences in drape spacing and related fabric properties and their somato type. (Korean J Human Ecology 1(2):113∼110 1998)

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.29-38
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• 1988

The shearing properties, which belong to the mechanical properties of fabrics, are most closely related to the appearnace of weared clothes, formation and feeling of wearing. And they are the elements which show the sense of touch, the properties of drape, folds and recoveryk curve foring, and keeping up formation. Sorts of 156 commercial skil fabrics and polyester fabrics of Korean make for women's cloth were tested for shearing propreties. All samples were classified into for summer and for fall and winter wear. Then shearing properties were measured by kawabata's evluation method. In this study shear stiffness(G) and shear hysteresis (2HG, 2HG5) of shearing prperties were measurd, then G/W and 2HG/G which are concerning to formation of weared clothes and trnsformatio behavior wre properties. The results obtained are as follows: 1. Silk fabrics were higher than polyester fabrics in G and 2HG. Thickness and weight of the fabrics for summer were a third to a half of those of the fabrics for fall and winter, but shearing properties were almost the same in the two types of the fabrics. 2. Fabrics for fall and winter were lower than fabrics for summer in G/W and fabrics for summer were lower than fabrics for fall and winter in 2HG/G. 3. korean women's silk cloth was much lighter than Japanese kimono cloth in weight but thickness and shearing properties were almost the same in the two types of the clothes.

• 복식
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.59-72
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to understand how 19th Century's romanticism fashion is expressed in modern fashion and to investigate their relationship. The materials for study of Post-modern fashion after the 1990s are collected and analyzed from ${\ulcorner}Gap\;Collections{\lrcorner}$. The characteristics of romanticism such as sensuality, ornamentation, exoticism and mingler, which were demonstrated in the previous study, are analyzed as follows in the modern fashion. ${\cdot}$Sensuality was represented by exaggerating the human body with silhouette of past romantic fashion, making the human body mysterious with see-through material including romantic patterns and ornaments, and emphasizing human body line using thin drape-like materials. ${\cdot}$Ornamentation was created by combining skills brought from the past with newly developed techniques and materials so that it provides gorgeousness. ${\cdot}$Exoticism was expressed in more diverse exotic patterns, colors, accessories and details because of accelerated internationalization. ${\cdot}$Mingler was achieved by using materials which does not seem to be suitable for romanticism, and mixing of contrastive or heterogeneous patterns and materials. It was caused by the scientific development and trend of respecting diversity. Romanticism increases the diversity and possibility of new point of views in fashion, It also shows the desires to seek inner peace adopting images of different periods and culture.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권3_4호
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• pp.354-363
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• 2003

In this research, an internet-based fabric information system has been developed. Recently, the numbers of textile industries which have their own homepages to advertise their product fabrics fur apparel through the Internet and textile e-Commerce web sites rapidly increase. Unfortunately, traditional fabric information systems based on direct meeting and trust cannot give sufficient information to numerous visitors of the Internet sites including fabric buyers for apparel. They can just view 3-dimensional fabric images and text-based specifications such as fabric density, composition, colors, weight, etc. To solve these problems, the new fabric information system fur apparel has been developed. The web-based fabric information system is composed of the following six modules; $\circled1$ fabric database management system, $\circled2$ a 3-D fabric drape image viewer to illustrate fabric appearances, $\circled3$ a virtual wearing system to apply a fabric to garment designs, $\circled4$ a fabric property viewer to confirm fabric characteristics, $\circled5$ a QC (quality control) document generator to manufacture high qualify garments with a fabric, and$\circled6$actual display mall to view actual fabrics. The fabric information system is simply performed by visitors clicking the buttons hyper-linked with JAVA applets on web browser. The web-based fabric information system enables the web site visitors to understand fabrics shown on the Internet in more details.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권5호
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• pp.545-553
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• 2003

A good school uniform leads students to good behavior and have them enjoy desirable school life. Therefore a better fabric for girls' high school uniform suggested through two series of studies; first, examined the various aspects of current uniforms. Second, made a new fabric for uniform considering elasticity for activity and comfortableness, and compared its characteristics with those of the current uniforms. The results are as follows; 1 Most of students wanted uniforms considering elasticity for activity and wearing. 2. The measurement of the elasticities of the uniform materials showed that the material which was made using the elastic material was more elastic than the currently used material by 42.12% in summer material and 20.05% in winter one. 3. The analysis using the combination of the values of mechanical properties showed that the elastic material was better in the wearing, tactile senses, and drape properties than the current material, even though it was a little worse in shape-stability. 4. To compare the thermal insulation, clo values were measured. For winter uniform, the elastic material was better than the current one in keeping warm. However, This study did not find any big difference between summer uniform materials.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권5호
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• pp.517-523
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• 2003

We studied the physical properties of silk fabrics after degumming, the dyeability and the color fastness of silk fabrics after degumming and sericin fixing. As the sericin was removed from silk fabrics, the rate of weight loss increased and both the abrasion resistance and the drape coefficient decreased. This means that the amount of the sericin remained in silk fabrics significantly affects the physical properties of silk fabrics. On the surface and the cross-section of silk fabrics, the silk fibers enclosed by the sericin seemed to be in a lump shape. Each fibroin strand, however, got scattered, as the process of degumming went through. The dyeability of silk fabrics degummed decreased at between 20$^{\circ}C$∼80$^{\circ}C$ the dyeing temperature, on the other hand, it significantly increased over 80$^{\circ}C$. The dyeability of the sericin-fixed silk fabrics was lower than that of the non-serin-fixed silk fabrics, to a little extent. The colorfastness of crocking in the dyed-silk fabrics was a little low and that of the sweat was much lower in a basic sweat. Especially, the colorfastness of the partially degummed silk fabrics was low, because the sericin was not stable in the condition of sweat. Therefore, the process of sericin fixing is essentially required, for the partially degummed silk fabrics and the process of degumming itself.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.42-50
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• 2005

Silk fabrics are widely used as high quality cloth, interior, quilting and bedding materials because of having excellent touch, drape, resilience and low specific gravity characteristics. But, many waste silk materials are produced during the reeling, spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing processes. From this fact, the recycle of waste silks is interested in studying for the application of industrial textile materials such as filter, oil absorbent and wound protector. Thus, this research has surveyed the decolorizing and carding characteristics in order to recycle the colored waste silk materials. As the results, the carding condition of waste silk fabrics was optimized with different fiber lengths and curding passage. In addition, the fiber failure mechanism from the wasted silk microdamage caused by carding process was investigated. Also it was found that longitudinal and transverse cracks, abrasion and pilling were formed on the surface of wasted silk fibers.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2011년도 제45차 학술발표회
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• pp.61-61
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• 2011

비스코스 레이온(Viscose Rayon)은 목재 펄프를 원료로 한 재생섬유로서 은은한 광택과 발색성, 흡습성 등의 기능 뿐만 아니라, 천연섬유에 찾을 수 없는 Numeri감(Smoothness), Drape(처짐)성, 반발탄성을 가지고 있는 지극히 친환경적이며 자연순환형 소재로 인식, 지구온난화에 따른 CoolBiz Look 패션소재인 레이온 소재에 관심이 증대되고 있다. 한편, 레이온 소재는 수분흡수 시 강도저하, 수축과 구김, 염색 불균염 등의 문제점과 섬유공정상 생활취급상에 많은 애로를 가지고 있으며, 구성고분자가 수소결합에 의해 강고하여 "신축문제", 수분흡수시 팽윤(Swelling)에 의한 형태불안, 즉 "수축문제"가 개선해야 할 고질적 문제로 남아 있다. 또한, 습식방사에 따른 분자구조적 불안정성으로 건 습열처리시 형태불안정(치수변화율이 큼)으로 제직(준비) 및 후공정상 여러 가지 Trouble 유발과 완제품 세탁시 수축발생으로 종종 Dry Creanning해야 하는 문제점들이 내재되어 있다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 레이온 소재의 형태안정화 제품을 개발하기 위하여 복합사가공 및 염색가공 기술을 개발하고자 하며, 신축 및 복합기술에 의한 Rayon DTY, T/R 신축 및 복합기술에 의한 Rayon DTY, T/R 복합가공사를 개발, 제편직 요소기술과 최적의 전처리 조건, 다양한 염료의 종류, 염색온도 조건 등에 관한 연구를 진행하였다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.296-304
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• 2012

For development of dyeability, the cotton fabric was dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by padding mangle. We evaluated the mechanical properties and hand value by Kawabata Evaluation System, and observed the change of surface morphology. The results obtained from this study were as follows. With the increase of repeating padding times of dyeing, the linearity of load-extension curve and tensile energy per unit length of the cotton fabric were increased, but the tensile resilience of fabric was decreased. The value of shear stiffness and shear hysteresis were increased. Also compression resilience and linearity of compression thickness curve were increased. The cotton fabric dyed with persimmon juice had shown the thickness and weight increase as the number of padding increase. As repeating times of dyeing with persimmon juice were increased, among the 6 hand values, the item of stiffness, anti-drape stiffness, fullness and softness were increased, while flexibility with soft feeling and crispness were greatly decreased. The amount of coated persimmon juice on the surface of the fabric was gradually increased as the padding times of dyeing. And cotton fabrics were dyed evenly with persimmon juice by padding mangle.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.23-35
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• 2015

In this study, the effect of shrink-resist treatment agent on the wool finishing, specifically anti-felting of wool product was studied. We aimed at providing preliminary data leading to the diversification of high-value added fashionable wool product. Two type of wool fabrics, dense and sheer, were employed. The fabric specimens were treated with solutions of shrink-resist treatment agent with wet pick-up rate 110%, 130%, and 150%, respectively, by using a padding mangle. The solution treated fabric specimens were then dried at room temperature first, at $90^{\circ}C$ for 15 minutes in a drying oven, and finally cured at $130^{\circ}C$ for 3 minutes. Cured wool fabric specimens were then subjected to a felting process. The physical and mechanical properties, including shrinkage rate along warp/filling direction, thickness at specified measurement pressure, drape stiffness, and air-permeability, were analyzed. After felting process, the shrinkage rates of wool fabric specimens, treated with shrink-resist treatment agent, were lower than those of control wool fabric specimens. The stiffness values of wool fabric specimens measured by using Flexometer were increased.