• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.257-269
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• 1996

The puropose of this study was to investigate the movement-fitness according to the surface changing of lower limb The experimental items were divided into the lower limb movements (5) and body-shapes (7). This study was done by the expansion and contraction rate consideration of length, girth Also, the lower half of body shape-change on the movements and body-shapes by flat shell was done simultaneously. The summarized findings resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows; First, when commpared the expansion and contraction rate of the length and girth items, the expansion rate of the back crotch length (14~20%), hip girth (10~ 21%) and knee girth (6.2~18.5%) in rabbit leap movement was the most notable among all variables considered in this experimentation. On the others hand, the front croth length (-22~-52%) contracted remarkably. And big-thigh type was the most notable on the body-shape comparision. Second, in comparision of the expansion and contraction rate of the area on the blocks, the expansion of the hip (50~200%) and knee (51~74%) block was the most remarkable. Especially, in the sit on knees movement of the hip-down type expanded 209.4%. Third, in comparision of the lower half of body shape-change, on the movements and body- shapes by the flat shell, under the influence of knee-joint and hip-joint the shape-changs of the hip and knee block was the most notable. But the shape-change of the waist, abdomen, calf, and ankle was feeble.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1000-1009
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• 2013

Well-fitting riding breeches provide a comfortable ride. Horse-riding breeches should fit the lower body with patches located on the inside of hip and knees to prevent tears and slips. This study provides information about the fit of women's breeches using 3D human body scan data wearing commercially available two breeches according to posture. To get information about breeches fit, we measured the angle of waist line, the length, and the area of the breeches fit on four 20's women. This research showed the problem which was down for waist back line in the case of the horseback riding pose. The back waistline of the riding breeches should be raised compared to the front waistline; subsequently, an increased waistline angle results in less back waistline decrease. The breeches have plenty of length from back waist to crotch so the breech fit can be improved. The thigh circumference increased when riding in the front; therefore, good elasticity of the weft direction of the fabric is recommended. The length increase and the peripheral increase of the front knee significantly increased the surface area of the knee; consequently, knee patch material should be a two-way elastic fabric in all directions to enhance comfort according to riding motion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.151-167
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to find out comparison of preference style and wearing style of jacket by body perception and satisfaction. This research was done by a survey method. Descriptive Statistics, t-test, Pearson's Correlation, Coefficients MANOVA, Two-Way ANOVA and Duncan's test were used for data analysis. The results of this study are as follows. 1) The subjects were less satisfied with larger or thicker girth of upper body. The subjects were less satisfied with thicker upper arm, lower arm, waist and lower abdomen. The subjects were less satisfied with larger or thicker girth of lower body. The subjects were less satisfied with thicker hips, thighs, calves, ankles, and longer crotch length. 2) The subjects with the highest dissatisfaction about neck thickness and length prefer jacket with collar but wear jacket without cellar. The subjects with the smallest bust wear jacket with short lapel. The subjects with wider shoulder wear jacket with narrower shoulder width. The subjects with more dissatisfaction about shoulder incline wear raglan sleeve jacket. The subjects with wider hips wear hip line length jacket.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.979-988
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the lower body size and forms of married women in their thirties who have experienced pregnancy and parturition. Their measurements derived from the direct anthropometry and indirect photographic measures were compared to those of 20's. Improving consumer satisfaction for missy brand, especially in fitness of skirt and pants, some lower body classification were presented. The results were as follows : 1. The characteristics of lower body showed many differences by individuals especially in depth, girth, length and angle measures rather than height and breadth measures. Many items including index, calculations and angles revealed significant differences compared to those of 20's. Several breadth items, crotch length had distinct increase than those of women in twenties. Flattened buttocks side silhouette from waist to hip, buttocks drooping and decrease of inclination implied the influence of pregnancy, parturition and aging. 2. We hardly find out sizing system differences between missy brand and miss brand. Based on waist and hip girth measurements of subjects, sizing system of missy apparel wasn't suitable for their body size. Excessive drop(hip girth-waist girth) of missy brands, 25~30 cm, was almost the same to the drop of miss brands. 3. To improve the size satisfaction of missy women, we classified the lower body into 5 types according to drop, buttocks angle and hip length. Type 1 was small waist with large buttocks projection, and hip length was close to an average. Type 2 was small waist with medium buttocks projection, and the hip length was close to an average. Type 3 was medium waist, with average projection of the buttocks and hip length. Type 4 was large waist, projection of the buttocks and the hip length were close to an average. Type 5 was large waist, projection of the buttocks was small and the hip length was close to an average.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.131-138
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to measure Korean, Chinese and Chosunjok college women's body part sizes, and then, classify their body shapes according to the drop value(hip circumference-chest circumference) as well as their statures, and thereupon, comparatively analyze the statistical distribution of their major body part measurements and thereby, provide for some basic data useful to the development of quality fitting apparels exportable to China. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; Most of Korean and Chinese college women were found to belong to the body type of "N" body shape, while many of Chosunjok college women belonged to "H" body shape body type characterized by normal stature but small difference between hip and chest circumferences. The most prevailing body type of Korean and Chinese college women next to "N" type(65%, 51%) was "H" (23%, 35%), followed by "A" type(12%, 14%), while that of Chosunjok college women was "H" type (54%), followed by "N" (40%) and "A" type (6%). On the other hand, in terms of distribution of major body part sizes, there was found a wide difference between Chinese and Korean college women. Chosunjok college women had similar body part sizes to Korean college women's in such measurements as waist back length, shoulder-to-shoulder length, front interscye length, back interscye length, under-chest circumference and weight, while having simliar body part sizes to Chinese college women's in such measures as stature, arm length, waist front length, waist side-hip line length, crotch length, head circumference, neck-root circumference and waist circumference.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.10
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• pp.97-109
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• 2001

It is thought that a composition of trousers is related to fabrics with single breadth. Therefore, trousers are designed with pattern using this fabrics with single breadth. However, in the old pattern of trousers, the breadth of 33cm-35cm was not considered in designing patterns. In this context, deciding which pattern design is better is not easy as there are a variety of estimation methods. So in this study, standardization of drafting is pursued by an objective pattern design. For this, a base angle of the trouser closely relating to a form and function was measured and using the height and the base angle, a trouser pattern design was tried. For a measurement of the base angle, 5 subject were selected. They are 25-29 year-old male graduates with fine physical standard. The base angle was measured with symphysis pubis point as a standard when subjects sat with their legs crossed, when they stood with their legs open (not forced artificially) and when they laid down with their legs open. The distance between a knee inside joint and knees was measured three times and the resultant value was used for the pattern design. For a design of trousers, the height was applied and the base angle was fixed. As a pattern drawing, using the height, a base angle and circumference of the hip, a trouser was designed. The production method for the pattern design is as follow: (1) The length formula, is height + $\frac{height}{2}$ (2) The hip girth formula is $\frac{hipgirth}{2}$ - $\frac{hipgirth}{20}$(3) A crotch angle is fixed at $72^{\circ}$. (4) The ratio of outer leg length to leg width is 5 : 8. (5) The component ratio of the upper outer leg length to the pant length is 5 : 8. (6) The ratio of the division point of front right inner leg length and left inner width to upper outer leg length is 5 : 8.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.431-439
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• 2013

This study aims to give practical help to the pattern making of baggy pants produced in large quantity from industrial fields. The functionality of crotch part is a key element to decide wear sensation and comfort of pants as having direct influence on movements of legs in pattern designing of baggy pants. The industrial patterns of baggy pants in various styles that are released currently in Korea were collected and a comparative analysis was conducted on them for the thesis. First, samples of men baggy pants were collected from three different brands and compared the completion sizes. Secondly, it studied the most appropriate patterns as quantifying the appropriateness of movements through fitting tests. Finally, the study verified the differences of visual images by surveys of professional groups. The conclusions obtained from this research are as follows. In terms of aesthetic attribute among the three brands, A baggy pants, which had a small size tolerance, were the most appropriate. Meanwhile concerning the appropriateness of movement, B baggy pants were shown to be the most appropriate. This reveals explicitly the problem of aesthetic attribute and functionality, which are always in conflict during the pattern design. It is necessary to develop patterns and establish a measurement system that may satisfy both of these factors.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.616-627
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• 2015

The purpose of this study was to develop slacks patterns for obese-schoolgirls aged 10~12 by using a 3D virtual garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had a BMI of over $25kg/m^2$. A total of 155 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. The results were as follows: First, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, a new slacks pattern considerate of obese-schoolgirls was developed. The basic numerical formulae were as follows: Front and back hip girth of H/4-0.5+1 and H/4+0.5+1.5, front waist girth of W/4+1+0.5, back waist girth of W/4+2+0.5, front crotch extension of H/16-0.5, back crotch extension of H/8-0.5, front dart amount of 1, and back dart amount of 2. Second, according to the new slacks pattern appearance evaluation, the new slacks pattern scored more highly than the existing pattern for silhouette and ease amount, confirming that the new slacks pattern is appropriate for obese-schoolgirls. Additionally, the new slacks pattern was evaluated allowing for the proper space length of the waist, abdomen and hips. This study is expected to serve as important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize a 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns and for future 3D pattern production program development.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.145-156
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to improve the fitness of Korean manufactured apparel products being exported to China and to provide for the basic data useful to the development of a torso prototypes for the Chinese women. For this purpose, Chinese college women aged between 18 and 24 were sampled to test the fitness of the Korean manufactured apparels for the Chinese women sample and address the problems of unfitness and thereupon. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; As a result of testing the fitness of the Korean manufactured apparels for the Chinese women, it was found that Chinese women felt more or less comfortable for the front of the jackets, but felt less comfortable with their side and back. Such a finding suggests that the Chinese women's postures are more turned back than the Korean women's. And also for the slacks, lack of a crotch length causes unnecessary pulls and creases from the back part to the crotch of a pair of slacks and the side line was not suitably placed. For this reason, the differences between the body shapes of Chinese and Korean women should be thoroughly considered when drawing the patterns to export to China.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.153-167
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• 2015

This paper proposes knit slacks patterns by lower body shape of middle-aged women. In addition, this paper aims to propose a design method for a prototype of nice knit slacks using the properties of knitwear. To select basic woven slack patterns which would be used in designing prototype of knit slacks for middle-aged women, two industrial slack patterns and two educational slack patterns were collected, and lab coats were prefabricated using muslin. Then, a shape test was performed by an evaluation board which consisted of eight experts who majored in Clothing Construction. Using blended yarn (1/17's) with 64% wool, 23% rayon and 13% nylon, 12G knit slacks in plain stitch were made. In terms of waist circumference of knit slacks, the front and the back were set to W/4+1+2(D) and W/4-1+2(D), respectively, with 1cm of difference using waist circumference (Omphalion) to cover the abdominal circumference. To make the front-back width of the side line even, the front waist circumference was increased by 1cm. The ease of hip circumference was set to 4cm in total with H/4+1+0.8 in front and H/4+1-0.8 in the back (0.8cm in difference). Crotch length was set by adding 3cm (width of waist belt) after deducting crotch height from waist height (Omphalion). The center front angle was shifted by 1cm while the center back angle was shifted from the center front to the side line by 5cm.