• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.115-125
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• 2007

A hat is a general term for what human beings wear on their heads in order to protect them from the cold or heat, to be used for ornament, or to symbolize social position. A hat represents the position of a man who wears it, attitude toward the society, and faith for a religion for males. Since men's hats can create their image and uniqueness in casual wear from current fashion items, they are proposed as a fashion accessory item of designers each season. The purpose of this study is to review hats, which are part of costume, in a more analytic method. The research range of this study is hats for men in the upper class in the 17th to 18th centuries from the history of costume when diverse periodic and characteristic costume changes occurred. In the 17th to 18th centuries in the middle of the Chosun Dynasty, changes in costume occurred as the feudal society of the dynasty had been dissolved since the Japanese invasion in 1592. Political power was established in France as the Baroque Age began in the 17th century. Since European costume, especially women's costume led fashion in France, the country represented the age better than any other countries. Aristocratic costume in the Rococo Age of the 18th century was changed to completely different shape of costume after the French Revolution. In this regard, this age was deemed to be the most appropriate for the comparison or costume. Another purpose of this study is to review the common and different features of periodic factors that affect changes in costume by researching the hats of the two countries in the same age in order to understand relation between periodic characteristics and costume throughout history of costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.7
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• pp.1281-1292
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• 2001

This is a study on the dualism of gender through the costume in the Middle Age. Jeanne d'Arc was an existential person in the Hundred Year's war(1338-1453). She persisted in retaining male attire and armour at her own request. One of the points for which she had been condemned was the wearing of male apparel. It was judged as an evil spirit and rendered Jeanne a witch and a heretic therefore she was burned to death in the market place at Rouen, on the 30th May, 1431. It is one of the evidence which represent dualism of gender through the costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.6 s.96
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• pp.67-81
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to evaluate a sizing system of ready-to-wear clothes for middle-school girls. Results of the study are as follows. 1. Results of the survey revealed most middle-school girls preferred garments for women like unisex-casual and young-casual, and prioritized overall style and design over sizing issues. However, when they purchased clothes, they were dissatisfied with the poor fit of ready-to-wear clothing, which is a little too big for average middle-school girls. 2. There is a difference between a brand's target age and its average consumer age. $96.7\%$, of respondents purchased clothes from unisex-casual and young-casual brands, which sizes did not fit for them. Most of these brands had female adults ages 18 to 24 as their targets, whose somatotypes do not correspond with those of girls 12 to 15 years old. 3. Body measurements of those in age groups from 12 to 15 and from 10 to 24 were analyzed to identify physical differences between middle-school girls and female adults, which confirmed the relevance of different sizing systems for each age group. As a result, it is undesirable that middle school girls' clothes are designed in accordance with sizing system for female adults' garments. 4. Using the two-wav distribution of middle school girls' stature-bust circumference for upper garments, and stature-waist circumference for lower garments, this study establishes a sizing system in sections of high frequency. The size intervals of stature and circumference were 5cm and 3cm respectively.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.702-711
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• 2014

This study was performed to investigate the hand size growth of Korean adolescents boys. Subjects were between 14 and 19 years (n=352). We collected the right hand size data of 19 measurements from each subject using 3D hand scanner. The total 26 hand measurements were analyzed including seven calculated measurements. Subjects were divided into three age groups (early, middle and late). Their hand size were compared. The results showed that all hand length measurements were significantly difference among age groups. Adolescent boys hands were sharply grown at age 16 years old. The hand dimensions of middle age group were compared with twenties men (n=215). There were significant differences between two groups. The middle age adolescents' hands were shorter and thicker than twenties men. Subjects were also divided by weight and height. Weight and height was closely related to hand size. The heavier and taller subjects had the thicker hand. Their fingers were longer than others. The adolescent boys and twenties men who were taller than the twenties' average height (173.4cm) were compared. Twenties men's hands were longer and thinner than that of adolescent boys. These results imply that the male adolescent hands grow short and thick in the adolescent period. Fingers continuously grow up as a long and thin shape after adolescent period.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.677-687
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• 2007

This research aims to classify the physical characteristics of middle aged women. The characteristics are esteemed to be adopted for the formalisation of the types of their body figures and their characteristics for each type. For this purpose, middle aged women in the significant change of their body shapes were sampled for body measurement which would be used for the comparison between each measured figure. A group of sample for this research was constructed with 154 middle aged women who is currently living in Seoul and its Metropolitan area and being in their age of $35{\sim}59$. Particularly, the analysis on the girth of belly shows a significant difference subject to each age group so that a distinguished change in the girth of belly is observed as the age gets older. With the SPSS programme, the physical characteristics of middle aged women were analysed by the variation analysis and correlation analysis. In terms of the analysis on the body mass index and the flatness index, the observed result that there is a significant difference between the indices for late middle aged women and early and mid middle aged women shows far more different result from Yu-Kyung Choi(1997) that the body figures of middle aged women tend to start rapidly to change from their ages of 49. This can be explained to some extent in that the increased interest in much healthier and slimmer body shapes beginning from widely-spread so called "well-being" syndrome results in the increase in the number of middle aged women taking care of their health management so that the ages starting their body shape to become obese tend to be deferred. Another explanation is also feasible to partly extent that the middle aged women living in Seoul and Kyung-Gi area are much more looking after their health management than those living in other areas. However, this research has a limitation in that the physical measurement for this research has been conducted focusing on the women living in Seoul and Kyung-Gi area. Hence, it is further expected going forward that the physical measurement for middle aged women living in other areas should follow for the comparison purpose.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.894-905
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• 2015

The present study analyzed data from the 3D measurement of the feet of men aged over 20 years residing in the capital region as part of the 6th Anthropometry of Size Korea. To analyze the characteristics of the foot shapes of young men aged 20~39 years and middle-aged/elderly men aged 40~69 years by age and by type, a cluster analysis was conducted using the factors derived through the factor analysis as independent variables. The results of the study that analyzed the characteristics of foot shapes by type according to differences in age were as follows. First, through the analysis of the characteristics of the foot shapes of young men by type, five factors were extracted, and the foot shapes were classified into three types: Type 1 (short and flat), Type 2 (thick), and Type 3 (long and wide). Second, through the analysis of the characteristics of the foot shapes of middle-aged/elderly men by type, six factors were extracted, and the foot shapes were classified into four types: Type 1 (short and regular), Type 2 (flat), Type 3 (thick), and Type 4 (long and regular). The results of the present study are expected to serve as basic data for the design of shoes by age and foot type.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1084-1099
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to examine the influences of age, somatotype, and stress on body cathexis and preferences of clothing image. The subjects were 248 women (college students and middle aged women) in Korea. There was a significant difference between a real somatotype and a perceived somatotype. As a whole subjects had a tendency to perceive themselves as overweight. In the college group the degree of being overweight influenced the degree of stress level. College women who perceived themselves heavier than their real weights marked the highest level of stress. Subjects who perceived themselves as underweight had a higher body cathexis. Significant findings were noted in preferences of clothing image relating to body cathexis and age. The clothing with an elegant image was preferred by subjects who had a higher body cathexis and the middle aged women. College women favored the clothing with a pretty image. The clothing with an unique image was preferred by subjects with a high body cathexis, by the college women, and by subjects who perceived themselves as overweight. The clothing with a masculine image was preferred by college women rather than middle aged women. The clothing with a moderate image was preferred by middle aged women. In summary, subjects had a tendency to perceive themselves as overweight, thus the higher stress level which affected body cathexis. Both age and body cathexis significantly affected preferences of clothing image.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.723-733
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• 2001

The purposes of this study were 1) to examine the effects of the difference between actual and perceived body type and body cathexis on satisfaction with fit and 2) to identify the effect of the difference between chronological and ideal age of middle-aged woman on satisfaction with fit of ready-to-wear. For this study, questionnaires were administered to 500 middle-aged woman in Kwangju. Employing 402 respondents, data were analyzed by using $X^2$-test, t-test and Pearson Correlation. The results were as follows; 1) There were significant differences between actual and perceived body types among middle-aged women. Those who were inconsistent with actual and perceived body types had a tendency to perceive themselves to be obeser than actual body. 2) Those who were inconsistent with actual and perceived body types had a lower satisfaction level with apparel fit sites at jacket length, hip width, crotch length and waist width than those who were consistent with actual and perceived body types. 3) Correlation for body cathexis and satisfaction with fit of ready-to-wear was significantly positive. 4) There were significant differences between chronological and ideal ages. 5) Those who were inconsistent with chronological and ideal ages had a lower satisfaction level with apparel fit sites at neckline, shoulder width, bust, sleeve length, sleeve width, Jacket length, waist width, hip width and skirt length than those who were consistent with chronological and ideal ages.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.125-142
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• 1999

Dancing along with mankind has existed in various ways form old age to the present. This dancing combined with artistic meaning is called the art of dancing. This study is mainly about the functions decorations and expressions of dancing costume and the claracteristics of the costumes by the 20th century designers Leon bakst Oskar Schlemer Pablo Picasso. The dancing costume were not so much different from those of the public from old age to middle age. In 18th and 19th centuries the length of the cotstumes become short from the knee to the thigh. The functions have much to do with the development of dancing for example the appearance of toeshoes. The costumes are designed not to prevent the movements of dancers smooth line in old age and ladylike vend high-blown line in the 18th and 19th centuries. Cotton and hemp textiles are turning into the transparent forms such as lace and gauge. The personal ornaments earings and necklaces have change into the pattern with wings and tassels. The dancing costumes of Leon Bakst Oskar Schlemer and Pablo Picasso are designed after the due consideration of body shape. Bakst focused on the beauty of smooth lines with splendid colors and decorations. Schlemer analyzed the body abstractly and metaphysically and expressed it with detaile and simple lines. Picasso emphasized cubic forms with cubism and expressed the characteristics of costumes with clear colors and smooth curved line. Bakst Schlemer and Picasso made the early 20th century the age of functional dancing costumes putting a light on the concept of space and foundation for the modern dancing costumes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.115-129
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to investigate the influence of the physical-related stress on the appearance management behavior of middle-aged women. The questionnaires were administered to 414 middle-aged women living in Gwang-ju city, Korea. For analysis of data, descriptive statistics, factor analysis, Cronbach's ${\alpha}$, t-test, ANOVA and Duncan-test were applied. The result was as follows. First, the middle-aged women's physical-related stress was classified as follows: 1) body-related stress, 2) face-related stress, 3) hair-related stress. The middle-aged women were under a lot of pressures from hair. Second, usually, between the group of physical-related much stress and a little stress. There was not significant difference in appearance management behavior: existence in a purchasing experience. But there were significant differences in it: intention of purchasing. Third, among demographic factors(age, educated level, job, income, and existence or nonexistence menstruation), there were significant differences on a physical-related stress. Finally, among demographic factors(age, educated level, job, income, existence or nonexistence her husband, and existence or nonexistence menstruation), there were significant differences in appearance management behavior.