• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.153-167
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• 2006

The hip-hop, which began with subculture of black people in Harlem, have changed variously in musical history after the times, which has become the culture phenomenon that had controlled dancing, fashion, and further consciousness of the new generation around the world in 1990s. Since Jean Patou first used Graffiti on clothing in 1920s, graffiti art has been expressed through various methods in many designers' works. The purpose of this study is to develop 'The Hip-Hop' clothing design which express major images in works of Jean-Michel Basquiat, a representative painter of Graffiti art in modern fashion. The concept is Jean Casual Look representing Young Street Culture. Breaking from existing strong legitimate hip-hop styles, clothing design expresses funny, healthy, comfortable, and active feelings. Adobe Illustrator and Adobe Photoshop program were used to design Hip-Hop clothing. With the result that the images on Basquiat's works applied to the hip-hop clothing design, it is suggested that the works of artists are worthy of practical use as factors of a high value-added design, which corresponds with collaboration appearing in modern design variously.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.105-119
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• 2004

Cultural hybridization and global cross-fertilization, begun since the 1990s, mean the hybrid mixture of the low-class popular arts and the high-class fine arts and have found expression in intertextuality by means of the thinking system of de-constructuralist post-modernism. This study was intended to investigate the artistic intertextuality between fashion and art frontiere, especially between such fields as 'animation', 'music', and 'performing arts' and 'fashion', which shows the greatest characteristic of the phenomenon that the non-mainstream culture flows into the mainstream culture. It also aimed to investigate the intertextuality between 'technology' and 'fashion' as the delivery room of the youth culture and copycat culture due to the benefit of technologies since the 20th-century digital revolution. Animation as the neo-pop art with the popular code coming to the forefront in the 21th century integrated high-class fashion and low-class fashion into one through the combination of fashion and humor, and the musical element referring to the social difference of the cultural field and the social strata is becoming the 21th-century fashion icon through its fusion with the pictorial tendency along with the leisure-time life of the non-mainstream strata. In terms of intertextuality in performing arts, fashion style performs an important role in the presentation of performing arts and since the de-construction of the fin-de-ciecle form and its fusion with media have taken place, fashion works become and element of the origin that has an influence on a series of film, dance, dramatic elements and the like. The paradigm of technology made it socially and culturally possible to achieve the architecture of clothing system necessary for fashionable technical clothing by allowing the possibility of imitation, the function of technology to form popular culture. The intertextual tendency in the 21th-century fashion began from the de-constructive phenomenon of existing norms and now takes the multicultural character of surpassing a certain domain or concept. And it positions itself as the total art of spearheading the low-class culture and the non-mainstream culture as the hybrid domain of mainstream and non-mainstream cultures or high-class and low-class cultures.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.127-136
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• 2006

These researches discussed promotions and effectiveness in the area of star marketing production, copying, advertising, and expenditure on clothes. The thesis is refreshing in the way it deals with analysis of strategical changes in the fashion of entertainers asia cultural industry developed. I specially focused on comparing and analyzing the changes in style of Hip Hop fashion from the period of inferior culture to the period in which their fashion is highly respected. Also, I'd like to study the influence of the fashion to Korean Hip Hop artists. The Hip Hop musicians developed their styles from underdog images of Hip Hop to glamourous and luxurious styles along with modeling in various magazines appealing sexually. In Korea, Seven and Hyori Lee are showing new and changed styles that are different from the past to their fans. The Hip Hop style now is showing with unimaginably luxurious styles as opposed to its original image. With their pursuance of ostentatious and luxurious styles Hip Hop was reborn as new Glam style. Old Hip Hop styles such as ripped jeans, safety pins, graffiti, and loose and exaggerated silhouette give inspirations to many worldly known designers and their collection. Hip Hop that used to be a branch of a low culture was able to grow to the culture of luxuries via the development the media and improvement of lives and the level of consciousness of the middleclass. Music stars with luxurious Hip Hop fashion influenced coming of a new musical genre and Korean musicians largely. I hope this research can help developing the unique low-culture and creating new trend in the field of entertainers' fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.364-371
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• 2015

This study investigated and analyzed Sadanggut for General Namyi, Agisee Gutdang in Haengdang-dong, Dodanggut in Bonghwa Mountainto examine the type and characteristics of official hats for shaman's costumes based on Seoul village gutas a spiritualistic shaman revealing the divinity of music for gutthrough singing, dancing, divine material and official hats. Commonly worn official hats were Goggal(conical hats), Jeonlip(soldier's felt hats), and Heuklip(black hats) for Seoul village gut as the object of thisstudy. Each official hat had a close relationship with subjects for divinity and musical meaning for gut. Julip(Red hats), Jokduri(bride's headpiece), helmets, Iksubgwan(King's official hat), and Daesu(Queen's a big wig with various hairpins) were also worn. Official hats worn for Seoul village gutwere understood to symbolize divinity and raise authority and dignity to the public through aggressive appearance, exaggeration and splendor. Concretely, official hats at Seoul village gut first had roles to materialize the divinity of each music of gut. Second, recognized as a part of performance or traditional culture in present day, aggressive official hats were favored to supply splendid attraction and maximize scenes of divined heroic epic poem in gut. Third, for Seoul village gut, colors and silhouettes of modern traditional costumes were reflected pursuing partial change and focused on exaggeration and splendor to express the mirth and festival of gutwhile maintaining traditional costumes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.199-214
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• 2020

The study investigates Atlas fabrics, the Ikat weaving method used by the Uygur People in Xinjiang, China. Based on domestic and foreign papers and other literature, different cultural characteristics of Ikat fabrics from various regions are compared. Following a theoretical investigation, characteristics of fabrics from the Indian Patola, Indonesian Ikat, Japanese Kasuri, and Uzbekistan Adras are summarized and compared with the characteristics of pattern, color, and manufacturing process of Atlas silk from Xinjiang China (also an Ikat fabric). The results are as follows. First, although the weaving process used for Ikat fabrics differs from country to country according to different national cultures, lifestyles, colors, patterns, and usage methods, they are all Ikat dyed fabrics. Therefore, they are all regarded as precious objects symbolizing a certain social status, and are used as a gift for special occasions, such as weddings. Second, the form of the pattern varies. Indian Patola has clear outlines and regular patterns, while the patterns of Japanese Kasuri are mainly inspired by folk life ideas. Indonesian Ikat contains influences from indigenous tribes, and Uzbekistan's and China's Atlas textiles are influenced by geography, religion, and national culture, including bright colors and pattern designs inspired by plants, musical instruments, and geometric figures. Finally, the patterns and colors of Xinjiang Atlas fabrics present strong ethnic characteristics. Unlike the Uzbekistan fabric which is mostly influenced by Islam, human and animal patterns would not feature in Xinjiang Atlas patterns, which mostly consist of long strips, repeated in a neat and orderly form.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.6
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• pp.62-73
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• 2010

The purpose of this thesis is to make an effective Korean Hip Hop culture and suggest a new style direction in classifying the types of fashion styles of the Hip Hop musicians and studying their features. They are surveyed in stage costumes, hair styles, make-ups, accessaries, and total fashion styles, and then classified into Normal Hip Hop Style, Casual Hip Hop Style, Sporty Hip Hop Style, Mix & Match Hip Hop Style, and Classical Hip Hop Style. The results of the study are as follows: First, Normal Hip Hop Style is the most general and universal Hip Hop fashion type. They wear clothes in bigger sizes and exaggeratively. And also a cornrow hair style, a tattoo, and a piercing represent marked individualities. Second, Casual Hip Hop Style is more active and practical than Normal Hip Hop Style. Their blue jeans and T-shirts express more simple and polished style. And also they make variable fashion styles and hair styles such as a cornrow hair and a buzz cut. Third, Sporty Hip Hop Style is from B-boy's clothes when they do active and violent break dancing. As NBA basketball games are popular, they wear training clothes, breeches, big T-shirts, and jumpers & caps on embroidered sport team's names. Their hair style is short or natural and also they have caps or hoods to present active mood. Fourth, Mix & Match Hip Hop Style is existed variable elements in one style. The typical type of this style is jacket & blue jean. It is characterized by dress shirts, neck ties, blue jeans, sneakers, beards, and moustaches. Fifth, Classical Hip Hop Style is from African Americans. They try to express assimilated appearance of Anglo-Saxons. They wear black suits, shoes, hats, and sunglasses to represent formality and elegance. In the above results, there are variable fashion styles in one Hip Hop music genre and also fashion style is changed with musical inclination. This thesis is an important guide to produce variable and creative Hip Hop fashion styles in Korean Hip Hop culture.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.31
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• pp.35-64
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• 2013

This thesis seeks to compare China's Jing-ju and Japan's Kabuki for their common aspects and differences and examine how they are performed on the stage. Jing-ju is often called as Beijing Opera to refer to a musical play completed during the mid-Ching era and developed around Beijing. Jing-ju is composite arts of music, dance and play which are remarkable in its strict patterns in move along with luxurious costume and heavy make-up. Kabuki which was developed during the Edo-period, is expressional arts also structured with music, dance and play coupled with extravagant costume as well as even more strictly controlled move and emphasis on the beauty of form. The two plays seem very similar to each other in their time setting to gain popularity or features of play. It may look obvious that Jing-ju which had developed earlier than Kabuki, affected the latter's formation. However, general social practices or cultural trends in China and Japan at the time of their development also influenced literature and arts thus affecting play contents and performance expressions. Although the two plays have similar stage structure, they developed in different ways with detailed differences and actors' performance on the stage, way of using a stage and other ways of directing play are largely distinctive from each other. If a play's primary goal is to gain recognition of audience and draw their positive response, the relationship between play and stage becomes essential. With this understanding, this thesis aims to identify where such similarities and differences between the two plays are from by comparing historical background, stage structural development and directing manner development at a basic level.

• Journal of the East Asian Society of Dietary Life
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.31-42
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• 1991

Since the year 1795(in the 19th year of King Jungjo), the form of Banquet Record was established. In the year 1827(in the 27th year of King Sunjo), the formality of Banquet was made at Ja-kyung Palace for the first time. Thereafter it was utilized by all banquets, So it was called the“model of courtesy”. The compostion of Jinchan Uigue of the year 1887(in the 24th year of King Gojong) was identified as follows; Banquet Record was composed of 4 Volumes. In Preface, there were Data choice(Taekil), Personal rank his name(Zwamok), Pictures of ceremonies(Dosik). In 1st Volume, there were King's order(Jungyo), Answer of King's question(Yeonseol), Musuic Record(Akjang), Compliment for King(Chisa), Poem for royal family(Junmun), Procedure of ceremony(Uiju), Works of theauthorities concerned(Samok), Resource indices(Gyemok), Letters from chief of the authorities concerned (Gyeas), Official letters(Imun), Letters to headquarters from local officers(Negwan). In 2nd Volume, there were Consult for budget(Pummok), Letters from to local officers from head quarters(Gamyul), Banquet menu(Chanpum), Utensil item(Gijong). In 3rd Volume there were repairment(Suri), Arrangement(Besul), Umbrella and flag for ceremonies (Ui Jang), Guard(Uiwui), List of quests(Neyebin), Ministers(Munanjesin), Musician and dancer's name and costume (Gongryung), Musical instrument(Akgipungmul), Rewards(Sangjum), Expenditure of banquet(Jaeyoung).

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.25
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• pp.253-289
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• 2012

Dasiraegi is a traditional funeral rite performance of Jindo located in the South Jeolla Province of South Korea. With its unique stylistic structure including various dances, songs and witty dialogues, and a storyline depicting the birth of a new life in the wake of death, embodying the Buddhism belief that life and death is interconnected; it attracted great interest from performance organizers and performers who were desperately seeking new contents that can be put on stage as a performance. It is needless to say previous research on Dasiraegi had been most valuable in its recreation as it analyzed the performance from a wide range of perspectives. Despite its contributions, the previous researches were mainly academic focusing on: the symbolic meanings of the performance, basic introduction to the components of the performance such as script, lyrics, witty dialogue, appearance (costume and make-up), stage properties, rhythm, dance and etc., lacking accurate representation of the most crucial element of the performance which is sori (song). For this reason, the study analyzes the music of Dasiraegi and presents its musical characteristics along with its scores to provide practical support for performers who are active in the field. Out of all the numbers in Dasiraegi, this study analyzed all of Geosa-nori and Sadang-nori, the funeral dirge (mourning chant) sung as the performers come on stage and Gasangjae-nori, because among the five proceedings of the funeral rite they were the most commonly performed. There are a plethora of performance recordings to choose from, however, this study chose Jindo Dasiraegi, an album released by E&E Media. The album offers high quality recordings of performances, but more importantly, it is easy to obtain and utilize for performers who want to learn the Dasiraegi based on the script provided in this study. The musical analysis discovered a number of interesting findings. Firstly, most of the songs in Dasiraegi use a typical Yukjabaegi-tori which applies the Mi scale frequently containing cut-off (breaking) sounds. Although, Southern Kyoung-tori which applies the Sol scale was used, it was only in limited parts and was musically incomplete. Secondly, there was no musical affinity between Ssitgim-gut and Dasiraegi albeit both are for funeral rites. The fundamental difference in character and function of Ssitgim-gut and Dasiraegi may be the reason behind this lack of affinity, as Ssitgim-gut is sung to guide the deceased to heaven by comforting him/her, whereas, Dasiaregi is sung to reinvigorate the lives of the living. Lastly, traces of musical grammar found in Pansori are present in the earlier part of Dasiraegi. This may be attributed to the master artist (Designee of Important Intangible Cultural Heritage), who was instrumental in the restoration and hand-down of Dasiaregi, and his experience in a Changgeuk company. The performer's experience with Changgeuk may have induced the alterations in Dasiraegi, causing it to deviate from its original form. On the other hand, it expanded the performative bais by enhancing the performance aspect of Dasiraegi allowing it to be utilized as contents for Performing Arts. It would be meaningful to see this study utilized to benefit future performance artists, taking Dasiraegi as their inspiration, which overcomes the loss of death and invigorates the vibrancy of life.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.16-33
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• 2004

Up to now, image of femme fatale has undergone constant transformation to be inherited and developed through various genres of movies. With few exceptions such cases have represented sensuality of women by costumes with the most distinctive and exaggerated sexuality. Temptresses in movies are mostly drawn as extravagant and gorgeous one or a gloomy and dreary woman. Such an image is reinforced with make-up, hair style, accessories, attitude and manner of talking. The movie 'Chicago' is a musical film that crosses the boundaries of reality and fantasy with dancing and singing. Its lighting, stage setting, powerful and sexy dancing augmented already exaggerated and sensual costumes. Following is the analysis of costumes for two heroines as images of femme fatale. Strong contrast of color among black, red and blue on see-through & stickingly tight body suit signifies liberal mind and arrogant charisma of Velma. The contrast, haughty gestures, cropped black hair and thick makeups represent sex appeal, aggressive image, and fearlessly determined character of femme fatale. Roxie wears decent dresses in front of public and gorgeous stage costume in fantasy to convey two images of bad girl and angel. Her body suit, showing off lustering materials and dazzling bead decoration, is rather loose but still displays her bodyline to emphasize sexiness for representation of desire in fantasy. Chastity and innocence are implied with the decency of dresses in reality. They were specially chosen to draw public sympathy and indicate cunning disguise of Roxy who desperately wants to realize her desire. These dauntless costumes, which sufficiently express inside aspirations of Velma and Roxie later denote open and realistic social yearning rather than fatal desire hidden behind sensual beauty. It doesn't exist as imperfect, unrealistic and socially disdainful ambition as the image of femme fatale of paintings and movies did before in history. Femme fatale is expressed with deep cleavage, silk dresses that explicitly display bodyline, sexiness of mesh stockings with garter belts. All of these won't be utilized as a negative tool to seduce and destroy someone anymore but rather, they should represent rightful and fair nature of humans such as men's curiosity who secretly steal a look at them or female sexuality that women spontaneously want to show off.