The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Characteristics of the traditional Atlas fabrics of the Xinjiang Uygur Minority Ethnic Group, China

중국 신장 위구르족 전통 아틀라스(Atlas) 직물의 특성

  • Received : 2020.02.08
  • Accepted : 2020.03.23
  • Published : 2020.04.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

The study investigates Atlas fabrics, the Ikat weaving method used by the Uygur People in Xinjiang, China. Based on domestic and foreign papers and other literature, different cultural characteristics of Ikat fabrics from various regions are compared. Following a theoretical investigation, characteristics of fabrics from the Indian Patola, Indonesian Ikat, Japanese Kasuri, and Uzbekistan Adras are summarized and compared with the characteristics of pattern, color, and manufacturing process of Atlas silk from Xinjiang China (also an Ikat fabric). The results are as follows. First, although the weaving process used for Ikat fabrics differs from country to country according to different national cultures, lifestyles, colors, patterns, and usage methods, they are all Ikat dyed fabrics. Therefore, they are all regarded as precious objects symbolizing a certain social status, and are used as a gift for special occasions, such as weddings. Second, the form of the pattern varies. Indian Patola has clear outlines and regular patterns, while the patterns of Japanese Kasuri are mainly inspired by folk life ideas. Indonesian Ikat contains influences from indigenous tribes, and Uzbekistan's and China's Atlas textiles are influenced by geography, religion, and national culture, including bright colors and pattern designs inspired by plants, musical instruments, and geometric figures. Finally, the patterns and colors of Xinjiang Atlas fabrics present strong ethnic characteristics. Unlike the Uzbekistan fabric which is mostly influenced by Islam, human and animal patterns would not feature in Xinjiang Atlas patterns, which mostly consist of long strips, repeated in a neat and orderly form.

Keywords

References

  1. Abulizi, A. (2005). Uygur traditional costume designs and cultural connotation. Journal of Northwest Minorities University (Philosophy and Social Science), 5, 147-152.
  2. Choi, H. J., & Ha, J. S. (2006). Traditional Indian textile design found in 21st century fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 56(7), 133-147.
  3. Cui, Y., Liu, Y. F., & Zhen, R. (2016). The traditional Japanese textile art journey - A case study of Tokyo and Okinawa. Art & Design Research, 4, 21-26. https://doi.org/10.4236/adr.2016.42004
  4. Guy, J. (1998). Woven cargoes: Indian textiles in the East. London: Thames and Hudson.
  5. Han, S. (2019). A study on the muslim costumes of China's Xinjiang. Unpublished master's thesis, Konkuk University, Seoul, Korea.
  6. Han, Y. G. (1996). A study on warp ikat. Unpublished master's thesis, Dongduk Women's University, Seoul, Korea.
  7. Hou, S. X., & Wang, B. (2011). 和田艾德莱斯 [Adeles, Hotan]. Suzhou: Suzhou University Press.
  8. Huang, W. B., & Wu, X. L. (2018). Clothing innovation spreads regional visual culture-review of "Research on Xinjiang minority costumes and culture". Textile Auxiliaries, 35(9), 74-75.
  9. Ikat history. (n.d.). In Wikipedia. Retrieved July 2, 2019, from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ikat
  10. Kahlenberg, M. H., & Berinstain, V. (2001). Asian costumes and textiles from the Bosphorus to Fujiyama: The Zaira and Marcel Mis Collection. Milano: Skira.
  11. Kax, W. (1979). History of textiles. Colorado: West view Press.
  12. Kim, G. H., & Lee, K. H. (2015). The creative chara cteristics of Kimono utilizing the Ikat technique. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 18(1), 149-163. doi:10.16885/jktc.2015.02.18.1.149
  13. Koo, H. K. (2005). Analysis of pattern for Indonesian traditional textile design. Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association, 7(3), 83-94.
  14. Li, A. N., & Zhang, H. D. (2004). The researches on atlays and behesam. Journal of Xinjiang Arts University, 2(3), 22-27. https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.1672-4577.2004.03.004
  15. Li, W. (2017). Redesign of glass surface with atles grain appearance. Design, 8, 132-133.
  16. Li, X. B. (1995). 中国西域民族服饰研究 [Study on the national costume of western regions in China]. Urumqi: published by Xinjiang People's Publishing House.
  17. Li, Y. (2018). Atlas visual language art performance in jewelry design. Unpublished master's thesis, China University Of Geosciences, Wuhan, China.
  18. Li, Y. J. (2012). The symbolism of the Xinjiang uygur costumes. Folk Art and Culture, 7, 102-104.
  19. Liao, W. H. (2017). The artistic features and innovative applied research of ikat fabric pattern in Central Asia. Unpublished master's thesis, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, China.
  20. Liao, W. H., & Wang, H. F. (2017). Discussion on kasuri pattern in Japan and features of its representative patterns. Silk, 54(1), 56-63.
  21. Liu, Y.（2003). The religious connotations of the uygur's dresses. Northwestern Journal of Ethnology, 2, 140-146.
  22. Liu, Y. (2010). The research of atlays history and the study of atlays legend context. Journal of Kashgar Teachers College, 31(5), 29-31. https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.1006-432X.2010.05.007
  23. Ma, A. X. (2017). Atlas' inheritance from the perspective of ecological space. Unpublished master's thesis, Nanjing Normal University, Nanjing, China.
  24. Ming, F., & Liao, Z. Y. (2017). The influence of adlai silk on the cultural value of Xinjiang. In 2017 International Conference on Innovations in Economic Management and Social Science 29, 934-940. Paris: Atlantis Press. doi:10.2991/iemss-17.2017.181
  25. Mu, H. (2012). Analysis of color culture of Atlas. Artistic Sea, 11, 183-184.
  26. Number of population. (n.d.). In Baike. Retrieved July 2, 2019, from https://baike.baidu.com/item/新疆/132263
  27. Park, Y. S. (1999). A study on technique of ikat. Unpublished master's thesis, Dankook University, Seoul, Korea.
  28. PlaneMad. (2008a, December 29). India Gujarat locator map. Retrieved September 10, 2019, from https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:India_Gujarat_locator_map.svg
  29. PlaneMad. (2008b, December 29). Orissa locator map. Retrieved September 10, 2019, from https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1f/India_Orissa_locator_map.svg
  30. PlaneMad. (2008c, December 29). Andhra Pradesh locator map. Retrieved September 10, 2019, from https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:India_Seemandhra_locator_map.svg
  31. Pusaka collection. (n.d.). Sulawesi, Toraja. Retrieved September 10, 2019, from http://www.ikat.us/ikat_064.php
  32. Qi, C. Y. (2014). Uyghur adelais silk craft. Costume History and Culture Skills and Development, 1, 188-192.
  33. Rao, L. (2006). Research on uygur costume culture. Journal of Nanning Polytechnic, 15(4), 16-19. https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.1009-3621.2010.04.005
  34. Sarajo. (n.d.). Geringsing double Ikat. Retrieved September 10, 2019, from https://www.sarajo.com/product/geringsing-double-ikat/
  35. Sim, K. H. (1999). Regional characteristics of Indonesian ikat fabrics. 18th Anniversary Conference on Opening of Onyang Folk Museum, Southeast Asian Fabric and Clothing Culture, 141.
  36. Song, D. H., Wang, X. S., Guo, J. N., & Du, J. G. (2015). Study on the structure and cutting technology of atlas textile dress. Modern Textile Technology, 23(1), 38-41.
  37. Strand of silk. (n.d.). Uncovering the history of ikat. Retrieved September 10, 2019, from https://strandofsilk.com/journey-map/andhra-pradesh/ikat/history
  38. Wan, S. H., Li, G. P., Wang, J., & Li, J. (2014). Research on the traditional dress culture for Xinjiang minority nationality in the process of the modernization. Journal of Tarim University, 26(4), 42-46.
  39. Warming, W., & Gaworski, M. (1981). The world of Indonesian textiles. New York: Kodansha International.
  40. Wu, Z., & Lee, H. J. (2006). Characteristics of national races' costumes in Chinese contemporary costumes. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 14(6), 956-970.
  41. Xinjiang Institute of Cultural Relics. (1999). 新疆察吾乎:大型氏族墓地发掘报告 [Chawuhu, Xinjiang: excavation report of large gens cemetery]. Beijing: Orient Press.
  42. Yang, H. H. (n.d.). Uygur atlas skirt's material. Retrieved September 10, 2019, from http://www.biftmuseum.com/collection/info?sid=707&nationSid=5&colCatSid=2&nationName=维吾尔族#atHere
  43. Zhang, J. H. (2015). 新疆艾德莱丝绸传统工艺[Xinjiang atlas silk traditional crafts]. Urumqi: Xinjiang Art Photography Press.
  44. Zhang, Y. (2015). The research of Atlas pattern's application in indoor textile design. Unpublished master's thesis, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, China.
  45. Zhou, Y. (2017). The study of adras pattern and its innovation and adhibition in modern design. Unpublished master's thesis, Suzhou University, Suzhou, China.