• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.200-212
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• 2009

Since the late of 20C, contemporary fashion have becoming enlargement between role and function of fashion through the combination and the deconstruction among various different spheres. Because multi-functional and trans-formal fashion transforms and extends original space and role toward any other fields through the morphologic and structural combination, this has been freed form the representational function pursuing more simple morphologic imitation, and becomes to change the space that is able to 'becoming' of Jill Deleuze. This paper intends to make a comparative study between the representation phenomenon about simple morphologic imitation of existing fashion design, and the becoming phenomenon of fashion focused on the change toward any other different object. This studies' conclusion as follows. 1) First representation imitates a lot of nature forms that are able to be restored any fixed form and picture. 2) Second representation is the representation of representation that re-imitates imitated object and art work. 3) Ontalogical becoming is classified with depaysement, self-presentation of fashion, morphing, and becoming the nature as a element.

• 복식
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• 제54권8호
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• pp.129-146
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• 2004

The Purpose of this study is to search the characteristics of aesthetic sense from the spiritual root of anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings inside contemporary Japanese fashion. This study considered contemporary Japanese fashion design from 1970 to 2000 to figure out the anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japanese anti-decoration culture. 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the anti-decoration culture 3. finding aesthetically the inside meaning of anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion. The conclusion on this study is as the followings. Anti-decoration culture has three aesthetic ideology. First, faintful aesthetics implies the aesthetic ideologies of Wabi, Sabi from Heian period and it appears the aesthetic sense to be natural beauty. simplicity, minimalism and temperance. Second, ambivalence aesthetics is based on nothingness and has the characteristic of multivocal and variableness without biased view. Third. playful aesthetics has the meaning of humorous. witty and mischievous which is the basic factor of Japanese formative arts. The aesthetic range of this study are the beauty of simplicity. poverty, incompletion, vagueness and humor. First, beauty of simplicity is composed of minimal lines and area through strict temperance and elimination. Second, beauty of poverty came from the aesthetic concept of Wabi which means honorable poverty and plainness. Third, beauty of incompletion means emptiness which is within the range of possibility. Forth, beauty of vagueness could be explained as incorporeal, colorlessness and voiceless. Fifth, Okashi which was the middle ages in Japan, shows the vein of humor in anti-decoration culture. As a result, anti-decoration culture does not mean the opposite of decoration culture, but accomplishes extreme artificial beauty by strict temperance and elimination. Also it is concerned as intentional poverty of decorative effect.

• 복식
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• 제55권6호
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• pp.159-171
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• 2005

The Goth style arouses Medieval syndrome, nostalgia and decadence, considering that Goth style shown in the contemporary fashion rend, tradition and fantasy that appeared in transition of the 21st century. This study is based on documents related to real Goth festivals and events to grasp various characteristics of Goth street style. The Goth style shown in high fashion classified the style on the basis of characteristics of camp culture from the viewpoint of bottom up from non-mainstream to mainstream with catwalk as the central figure. Considering appearance of Goth, property of subculture after the 1980s as alternative subculture as well phenomenon of latter subculture. Also it was possible to grasp attribute of lifestyle shown in music and fashion code from the viewpoint that alternative subculture was in pursuit of individual personality and autonomy. As an alternative subculture, Goth that appeared in UK from the late 1970s to the early 80s is considered new lifestyle, which means the scene of modern underground.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.79-92
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• 2015

Covers of fashion magazines are part of the media that reflects the zeitgeist. Thus an analysis of the covers is a tool to probe the social and cultural changes of a period. This study attempts to shed light on the changes of the image of women on the cover of men's fashion magazines; this study intends to investigate the changes of status and role of women, from the past up to the present, through analyzing the meaning of the image of female models. For this purpose, this study conducts both literature and corroborative research. The period for the analysis is limited to post-1960s when female models began to appear alone on the cover of men's fashion magazine. The three decades from the 1960s through today have been analyzed according to its characteristics. The result is as follows: female models in the 1960s were shown as subjugated and ancillary to men as a commodity for the affluent materialistic civilization after World War II. In the 1970s, thanks to feminism movement, the image of resistance dominated. As a result of women's right movement, the 1980s came to witness the female image of subjective characteristics. Finally, starting in the 1990s, a mixture of subjugated, resistant, and subjective image of female models has appeared. In the contemporary culture, where the communication through images is being increased, the image of the female models in fashion magazines could work as a criterion to measure the social change.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.108-127
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the principles of clothing design and the way of design approach in Lamanova. She caused a revolution in the art of dress and created the foundation for costume design theory. She Addressed Art in everyday life to self-taught dressmakers. The distinguishing feature of the design is simplicity and functionality. In an article "The Russian Style", Lamanova raised the question of the new Soviet costume and traditional costume. In "On Contemporary Costume" she classified the new forms of clothes into everyday and holiday attire, showed the principles of costume, and analyzed in detail the necessity of constructing a costume to suit the individual figure. In "On the Rationality of Costume", she found a basis theory for clothing design which is for whom, from what, and for what purpose. Lamanova's theory was made public in full in 1928 and was presented at the exhibition of Handmade Textiles and Embroidery in Women's Contemporary Costume. The main contents are the costume's purpose, it's material, the figure of its wearer, and its form. She argued that the new costume could be in line with the new life and her theory could be the creed of clothing designers. The principles of Lamanova's theory can still be applied today, not only in Russian traditional and contemporary costume, but in contemporary world fashion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권6호
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• pp.893-912
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• 2017

Crowdsourcing models in which organizaions obtain needed product ideas and services from a crowd in a network-based society are rising as a global industry trend. The purpose of this study was to figure out the types and characteristics of crowdsourcing design shown in the domestic fashion brands, and to provide implications for design strategies using crowdsourcing. This study was based on qualitative research which was brand case studies on crowdsourcing design in the fashion industry from January 2006 to July 2017. Also, quantitative analysis using frequency and percentage was applied. The results were as follows: First, crowdsourcing design was used in almost all types of fashion brands, such as sports and outdoor wear, men's wear, women's wear, men's and women's casual wear, shoes, bags, school uniforms, jeans, accessories, etc. Crowdsourcing design in the fashion industry was classified into three types: crowdsourcing graphics and artwork; crowdsourcing customized designs; and crowdsourcing product designs. Of the three types, crowdsourcing graphics and artwork was used most. There were four methods to choose the best crowsourced design: review only by experts, voting by crowd and review by experts, crowdvoting, and crowdfunding. Second, the characteristics of crowdsourcing design were openness, participation, reward and acknowledgement, sharing and interaction, and individualized collective intelligence. Crowdsourcing design could be used as an open innovation strategy in the fashion industry, which could collect new and creative design ideas for product development, resulting in the satisfaction of consumers and benefitting the company.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.93-103
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• 1999

This study is intended to propose the new design course on Contemporary folk Hanbok by researching their preference to Contemporary folk Hanbok. To do so, the definition of styles, preference in details and fitness for the occasion to wear Contemporary folk Hanbok were evaluated and analyzed. The collected materials were investigated in quality and content. As for the data, five Contemporary folk Hanbok brands, in the city were selected and twenty styles from catalog were extracted. The subjected of study were 219 university students living in Seoul and Kwang-ju, Mok-po. they answered the questionnaires, the results of study were following: 1) In style of Contemporary folk Hanbok, there were positive support on longer Jeogori than traditional one and a seamless one-piece skirt at the length of ankle. But they had the negative thought of various spapes shapes related to the styles of Contemporary folk Hanbok. 2) In a view point of coloring on women's Contemporary folk Hanbok, the student supported the saturation more than special preference to similarity or contrast harmony. Students liked the harmony of achromatic colors or same colors up and down which are not traditional 3) In men's Contemporary folk Hanbok, students were for the harmony of same colors in up and down, preferring wool/polyester to cotton or silk100% (traditional materials) in materials 4) It indicates that what students thought generally of the occasional appropriateness of Contemporary folk Hanbok didn't match with the choice of proper occasion on preferred style. The western clothes have difference in design, material, color and manners of co-ordination related to ordinary cloths and out wear, but Contemporary folk Hanbok don't have these difference. Therefore, it is needed to develop the expensive designs discriminated between ordinary clothes and out wear in design, material, color and co-ordination corresponding to the every day life style.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.73-87
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• 2008

The main objective of this research was to investigate the characteristics of achromatic & chromatic color coordination of contemporary female fashion by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' of four collections (i. e. cities) - Paris, Milan, New York, London - from the periods of 2002 S/S to 2006/7 A/W. The data was collected by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' magazine and total 677 observations were made. Statistical analysis of frequency and also qualitative interpretation of achromatic & chromatic color coordination characteristics were completed. The main findings were; (1) The achromatic & chromatic color coordination was identified as one of most used color coordination in contmeporary women's fashion collections. (2) Black and white mainly used for achromatic color, and brown used the most often, then followed by blue, red, yellow, green and the others for chromatic color in achromatic & chromatic coordination of contmeporary women's fashion collections. (3) The characteristics of achromatic & chromatic color coordination of modern women's fashion collections from 2002 S/S to 2006/07 A/W showed various images according to chromatic colors and tone variation. The combination of achromaticand brown color variations produced an intelligent and sophisticated image. The soft or light chromatic color and chromatic color combination projected soft, feminine and subtle feeling, while the combination of vivid or strong chromatic color and achromatic color projected a clean and strong feeling through contrasting tones of clear and bright colors. The chromatic color of deep or dark tone and black combination demonstrated supernatural and gloomy image. (4)In all four collections, Paris showed most use of two color coordination and then followed by Milan, N.Y, and London. N.Y showed higher rate of using achromatic & chromatic color coordination, and then followed by Paris, London and Milan.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.337-347
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to figure out consumer's recognition on brand's peculiar style on Korean contemporary women's apparel brand. The contemporary women's apparel brands show advanced and stylish merchandise at better price points. This segment of the Korean ready-to-wear market has been growing fast in last decades. Four contemporary women's apparel brands(I, K, M, and T) were participated in this study. The data(n=216) were collected with questionnaire survey at 24 apparel retail shops in metro Seoul area. The questionnaire measured the consumers' recognition on each brand's peculiar style. The subjects evaluated each brand's typical silhouette, materials, and style image. The results of the survey showed that the style image factors were 'stylish', 'simple', 'casual', 'feminine', and 'classic'. The style image of each brand was differentiated from others. The brand T had classic image, the brand K had simple and casual image, brand M had stylistic image, and the brand I had feminine image. The features of materials that used at the four brands were not very different by the brands. They used the high valued materials. The common features of the materials were 'smooth', 'thin' and 'light weight.'

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.147-156
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to analyze the style of wide pants shown in collections from 2008 to 2011 and to extract main expressional words for the development of semantic differential scales of visual images according to the change in silhouette of wide pants. The results of this study are as follows: 1) The wide pants which women wore in the 1970s were similar to men's. The aesthetic values for the wide pants included the social women's requests of the time. On the other hand, new wide pants shown in the current collections have diversified by adding designers' will to express contemporary women's tastes and fashion senses. 2) 742 wide pants shown in collections were composed of 459 straight, 147 bell-bottom and 136 flared pants. The design differs according to changes in the waist position and width of the wide pants. 3) Main expressional words of visual images for wide pants differ greatly depending on the silhouette of wide pants. The visual images are ranked in the order of 'showed that legs are long', 'looked taller', 'neat', 'relaxed', 'retro', 'modern' for straight pants. The words of 'retro', 'countrified', 'legs seemed to be long', 'enough' 'confident' 'looked like thighs that are slim' are ranked for bell-bottom pants. And the words of 'plentiful' 'loose', 'enough', 'retro' 'uncomfortable', 'relaxed', 'countrified' are marked down for flared pants.