• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.47 no.6
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• pp.81-88
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• 2015

The molecular weight (MW) and crystallinity of cotton linter need to be controlled to be dissolved well in N-methylmorpholine N-oxide (NMMO) solvent for manufacturing regenerated fibers of clothing fabrics. Electron beam irradiation or sulfuric acid pre-treatment followed by alkaline peroxide bleaching has been used to control MW effectively and to improve brightness of cotton linter. Auto-hydrolysis of cotton linter without electron beam irradiation or chemical pre-treatment was found to be effective as an alternative pre-treatment method. Removal of metal ions, that hampered dissolution of cotton linter by NMMO, was also investigated when the auto-hydrolysis was accompanied with ionic polymers and chelating agent.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.708-715
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• 2016

This study researched the sizing system of dress form for apparel manufacturing in the domestic market. It aims to be used as basic data for the development of a dress form that could be used by manufacturers of senior men's clothing. Research focused on the sizes presented on the homepages of 17 dress form manufacturers in the USA, France, Japan, and Korea. Body measurement was made for senior men in their 50's over men (n=134). Six items were measured by the 'Standard body measurement of Size Korea'. The type of dress form in the domestic market can be classified into half-body type (upper body type and lower body type), torso, and whole-body type; in addition, each type is divided into upper arm, arm, crotch, and thigh. Korean dress form manufacturers produced/sold diverse kinds (size 7-9) for women; however, they used large/small sizes or product sizes for men without defining sizes. The chest size (93-105cm) has not been standardized while the rates of waist circumference, hip circumference and shoulder length (in accordance with the chest size) were all different. Global dress form brands manufactured reflecting body dimensions by the state organization USA ASTM. Japan JIS. For this reason, most domestic clothing businesses depend on imported dress forms. Especially, there were no dress forms for senior men. With the growing market for seniors, it would be necessary to produce senior dress forms for clothing production that reflect the body shapes and sizes of seniors.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.183-199
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• 2015

This study aimed to systematize the apparel vendor work processes and provide useful information to future employees of clothing export units by analyzing the processes of vendors' manufacturing tasks. A survey of 20 apparel vendors servicing mainly U.S. buyers was conducted on employees of overseas business departments working for more than five years. buyers. Based on the results, vendors mainly manufactured cut-and-sew knit products. Regarding the production method, OEM was used more frequently than ODM. Fourteen (70%) companies used the ODM method. This suggests that vendors are expanding their production method from OEM to ODM. In order to summarize the work of each business based on the clothing production process research results, buyers were in charge of planning products and the vendors were in charge of sampling. Production of materials and the approval of material tests were out sourced. Overseas factories of vendors were in charge of bulk (mass) production and garment finishing, as well as packaging and shipping the completed products. Even though the vendors' head offices do not directly produce clothes, they play a pivotal role in ensuring planning and management progress in clothing production. As buyers prefer direct contracts for cost reduction, the vendor additionally performs the role of an agent. Also, with the increase in ODM production ratio, the work area of the vendor is expanding. If Korean clothing exporters improve their global competitiveness by investing in the R&D of materials and design to enhance the ODM method, the development of Korea's clothing and export industry will benefit significantly.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.136-143
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to investigate the influence of physical functions of elderly people on their clothing behavior and to provide basic information about manufacturing comfortable apparels for the elderly. A total of 219 people, with ages between 60s and 70s, participated in the survey and in the experiment to correlate their tendency of wearing clothes with the state of their physical functions. About 78.5% of the elderly showed eyesight deterioration in the subjective evaluation. Elders in their 60s raised their arms higher up in overhead reach, and showed shorter distance between middle fingertips in behind back stretch and in back scratch than elders in their 70s. Also, the former stretched farther to the floor in standing trunk flexion, and maintained more steady in one leg stand and in tandem stance than the latter. The narrower the movement range of the upper limb joints was, the more the elderly preferred upper garments with full front opening to those with half or no opening. The more inflexible the upper limbs and waist and the more unbalanced the body was, the more likely the elderly put on pants while sitting on the floor. The time taken to button up the shirt and to put on and take off pants showed a positive correlation with the overhead reach, the behind back stretch, the back scratch and the standing trunk flexion, whereas the former showed a negative correlation with the one leg stand and the tandem stance.

• Smart Media Journal
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• v.12 no.7
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• pp.43-51
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• 2023

As online transactions increase, the image of clothing has a great influence on consumer purchasing decisions. The importance of image information for clothing materials has been emphasized, and it is important for the fashion industry to analyze clothing images and grasp the materials used. Textile materials used for clothing are difficult to identify with the naked eye, and much time and cost are consumed in sorting. This study aims to classify the materials of textiles from clothing images based on deep learning algorithms. Classifying materials can help reduce clothing production costs, increase the efficiency of the manufacturing process, and contribute to the service of recommending products of specific materials to consumers. We used machine vision-based deep learning algorithms ResNet and Vision Transformer to classify clothing images. A total of 760,949 images were collected and preprocessed to detect abnormal images. Finally, a total of 167,299 clothing images, 19 textile labels and 20 fabric labels were used. We used ResNet and Vision Transformer to classify clothing materials and compared the performance of the algorithms with the Top-k Accuracy Score metric. As a result of comparing the performance, the Vision Transformer algorithm outperforms ResNet.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.550-558
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• 2010

Russian Constructivism, which took the lead in the Russian trend of art until the late 1920's, was influenced by European Cubism and Futurism. Breaking away from the previous realistic tendency, Russian Constructivism, to meet the ideology of the revolution, insisted the "Art into Street" and the "Art in Industry" with its abstract and geometric design. Russian Constructivism effected paintings of mid 1920's, as well as Industrial design and costume design. This operated remarkable changes in Russian form of costume and textile area. An unusual situation like revolution had provided the social justification to develop a new costume design not for the special class of people, but for the general public. In this atmosphere, the plan of clothing mass production began to progress. Although the Russian Constructivism costume of arts shows the similarity in the trend of fashion and the physical forms of those days, its fundamental idea in manufacturing costumes was 'to create costumes to be possible to mass-produce and to be wearable to anyone regardless of the social class'. Therefore, Constructivism costume of arts pursued dynamism and geometric form through non-objective design that has broken away from the handcrafted and traditional standards of the past. These distinct characteristics served as a momentum to seek costume design based on productivity and functionality.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.544-551
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• 2008

In this study, the colorants of Amur cork tree were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics have been dyed with aqueous extract of Amur cork tree and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(Amur cork tree) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. This process was applied by means of the conventional mercerizing process. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics occurred simultaneously in the mercerization bath. On the surface color change, the fabric of no-chitosan finished and no-mordanted has greenish yellow. The more crosslinked chitosan on cotton fabrics has the more turned down greenish on the surface color, as increasing the concentration of chitosan, greenish color turn down to the yellow close the 90o hue angle. In all sorts of fabrics, dyeability(K/S) is slightly affected by the number of manufacturing process and the concentration of chitosan. But only mercerized cotton fabric has higher dyeability (K/S) than mordant treated cotton fabrics. Wash fastness has little different results by each condition, but almost similar values. Light fastness was improved with chitosan treatment on cotton fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.790-798
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• 2021

With digital technology innovation, increased data access and mobile network use by consumers, products and services are changing toward pursuing differentiated values for personalization, and personalized markets are rapidly emerging in the fashion industry. This study aims to identify trends in digital customized automation technology by deriving types of digital customizing and analyzing cases by type, and to present directions for the development of digital customizing processes and the use of technology in the future. As a research method, a literature study for a theoretical background, a case study for classification and analysis of types was conducted. The results of the study are as follows. The types of digital customizing can be classified into three types: 'cooperative customization', 'selective composition and combination', 'transparent suggestion', and automation technologies shown in each type include 3D printing, 3D virtual clothing, robot mannequin, human automatic measurement program, AR-based fitting service, big data, and AI-based curation function. With the development of digital automation technology, the fashion industry environment is also changing from existing manufacturing-oriented to consumer-oriented, and the production process is rapidly changing with IT and artificial intelligence-based automation technology. The results of this study hope that digital customized automation technology will meet various needs of personalization and customization and present the future direction of digital fashion technology, where fashion brands will expand based on the spread of digital technology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.145-156
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• 2009

This study proposes the product development through an organic link with multi-faceted analysis on the archetype of traditional costumes culture. In order to find ways to develop cultural products, Jogakbo was selected, and the research result is as following. 1. Analysis on the types of Jogakbo products sold in the market shows that there are not only living, stationary, and fashion items, but also DIY packages. In terms of materials used, most of these Jogakbo products were made of fabric or mixture of different materials. These products displayed similar tendency by reflecting formative characteristics of Jogakbo. 2. This study analyzed the color, surface composition, material, manufacturing, and usage of Jogakbo. The rotor of Jogakbo is mostly composed of mono tone colors or Obangsac(five-element colors). The mono tone colors carries environmentally friendly meaning as it is using the natural color and Obangsac means harmony. Moreover, the surface composition of Jogakbo represents the expansion through connection and its material is also meaningful in that it is recycling. Manufacturing of Jogakbo has educational significance, fortune-wishing characteristics, decorative function, it also gives a gratification of handcraft. The usage of Jogakbo is a multi-(unctional article whose form is determined by an item that is held inside it. 3. Through the analysis on Jogakbo, this study presents the baby wear in relation to the ere-friendliness of colors, brooch sets using the surface composition, dresses using recycling fabric, children's educational instruments with educational significance, as well as multi-functional packages in regards to usage of Jogakbo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.1037-1045
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• 2001

This research is done to design and manufacture prototype clean room garments to improve the product yield of the clean room processing. To assist the research, other papers and references on the same subject were collected for analysis. Also the researcher made interviews with the workers at the clean room. The prototype garments made for this project was compared against the commercially available clean room garments used in the industry. A set of test was conducted to measure particle release from the garments. The prototype clean room garments was manufactured after having considered all the aspects stated above, and tested for the level of particle release. The test subjects performed 4 different movements(marching, arms stretch, squat and rise, and jogging) while wearing the prototype garments and commercially available clean room garments. Particle counts produced by each movement were measured. The data collected was statistically analyzed. The followings are the result of the test. 1) Overall, the prototype garments yielded less particle release.(p<0.001) 2) It showed greatest difference of particle counts for jogging(p<0.001) and squat and rise(p<0.001). In the arms stretch test. the prototype garments was also more effective in controling the particle, however, in the marching test. no significant difference was detected. 3) The prototype garments had less particle release in upper(p<0.001), middle(p< 0.001), and lower level(p<0.01) than the commercially available clean room garments. Manufacturing a new fabric for the clean room processing is important, but this research proves that the design of the clean room garments also determines the efficiency garments in the particle control. Therefore the same fabric can perform differently according to how it is designed. Improving the design will also improve the 7article control and reduce the cost of research. Eventually, the manufacturers will increase the product yield.