• 복식
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• 제53권3호
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• pp.89-106
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive effects of Queen Elizabeth I's robes in cinema and also to present two examples of Queen Elizabeth I's robes designed and made based on these expressive effects. To this end, this study wilt first examine Queen Elizabeth I's robes in her portraits according to the visual definers and emblematic meanings. Then on the basis of these knowledges, analyze visual definers and viewing priorities of Queen Elizabeth I's robes in five movies. Thereinafter, these robes will be classified based upon Belong(1998)'s four expressive effects. excitement. calmness, strength and delicacy. Finally, this study will demonstrate calmness and delicacy among four expressive effects through two robes made for the purpose. After analyzing the expressive effects of robes in five Queen Elizabeth I's movies, one can conclude excitement. calmness, strength, and delicacy can be found according to the flow of the story. Since this analysis focuses mainly on one particular person during one Particular period of time, there was a fundamental silhouette prevalent among the Queen's robes which then can be classified into different forms. Moreover, Queen's character in itself embodies authority and grace which. in turn, facilitates the presentation of the four expressive effects along the story line. In conclusion, thorough historical research on the character and the period. in addition to analysis of the visual definer and viewing priorities, is imperative when designing a historical costume.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.285-295
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• 1997

This dissertation aims to study a role and importance of clothing as a visual transmission system, with investigating the system and structure of a pragmatics in a cinema costume and analyzing what the meaning of a pragmatics is, depending on the circumstance on the circumstance on the basis of pragmatics. It examines as an objective the clothes of Scarlett, a heroine in 'Gone with the Wind's film originated from the novel written by Margaret Mitchell. As a result of this study, the movie costumes demonstrate a purposed transmission medium as a describing tool governing comprehensive circumstances in the process of drama. The costume plays a significant role in delivering a meaning of a movie showing historical backgrounds, social situations, and psychological description, status, characteristics, tastes of characters by means of their costumes in the movie.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2005년도 International Costume Conference PROCEEDING
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• pp.114-115
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• 2005

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.80-96
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to consider the expression of costume through the review of cinema costumes and to provide the model of cooperation between fashion and movie industry by analysis of collaboration with fashion brands in the movie . The subjects are the 1974 film directed by Jack Clayton and the 2013 version by Baz Luhrmann. Cinema Fashion was studied by analyzing the costumes of the two main characters, Gatsby and Daisy, in each scene. Gatsby's costume appeared as a model of traditional American classic suit, sensitive G-G look that symbolizes social success and traditional casual style that reflects upper-class life style. Daisy's costume expressed pastel toned luxury flapper look, oriental art deco style, and prestigious jewelry representing high class. The collaborations with fashion brands were carried out with Ralph Lauren and Cartier in 1974 film, and Brooks Brothers, Prada, and Tiffany in 2013. The value of prestige brands that matched the images of the movie was utilized, but marketing strategies for the promotion of fashion goods were not enough in 1974 version. On the other hand, in 2013 film, the effects of collaboration of the movie and fashion brands were forecasted sufficiently and marketing campaigns for promotion were performed in a various ways. The characteristics of collaborations were as follows: (1) the usage of prestige brands value, (2) collections planning and promotion using the stories of a movie, (3) the usage of multidirectional digital media, and (4) multi-dimensional promotion using entertainment factors. In collaborations with the movie, fashion brands could make cooperative relationship to produce the positive effects for promotion and prestige image strategies and draw attention of the people to the movie and fashion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.28-41
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• 2008

Fashion style in movies delivers their image the atmosphere and becomes the means for containing the personality, spiritual world and inner thinking the characters in the movies and including its plot. When the American new cinema emerged in late 1960's and early 1970's in the American movie history, the new left wing which wants to overturn adult generation and the hippie culture which wants to escape from an existing system also emerged. Therefore, this study analyzed the fashion style in the movie 'Easy Rider (1969)', i.e. the representative new American movie which showed the isolation from adult generation and negative realities of the American society. From the movie, we can understand the young generation after the Vietnam war, i.e. baby boom generation, pursued the hippie culture as their young culture. With their strong self-consciousness, they formed their own lifestyle and values which are different from those of adult generation, and we can understand clothes were used as a tool to express their value system.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권7호
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• pp.1140-1151
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• 2009

This study researches the formative character of 1920's fashion through cinema costumes from the perspective of the theories of W$\"{o}$lfilin and Delong. This study organizes a new perspective such as closed form & open form, part recognition & whole recognition, and flat & rounded to analyze the characteristics of form in the costumes of 'The Great Gatsby', 'Chariots of Fire', and 'Chicago'. The 1920's style in the fashion history is a closed form and flat because of simplicity and functionality. The costumes in Chariots of Fire' that focuses on the reappearance of 1920's fashion is a flat and closed form. However, the costumes of 'The Great Gatsby' that presents a symbolic meaning and 'Chicago' that expresses a splendid look are an open and rounded form. Evening dresses are open, with whole recognition and a rounded form because of sheer fabrics, beading, uneven hemlines, and lighting. Daytime dresses are a closed form and flat because of heavyweight fabrics, dark or achromatic colors and non-patterns. Also, open form and rounded, closed form and flat have a similar distribution in diagrams. When the viewer recognizes the form of clothes, they react in a similar way to two-dimensional and three-dimensional presentations that shows that the form of clothes is recognized by the relation with the body. In addition, this study researches the connection between diverse elements such as clothes, body, movements, space, and external elements such as lighting.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.145-156
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to demonstrate the stage costumes realized by digital clothing ; how realistic and accurate representation of empirical testing and in the consultation process for the production stage costumes, determine whether digital clothing has value that can be substituted for the stage costume. This study researched the stage costume manufacture, Isabel's costume of the musical 'Christmas Carol', process by using the 3-D clothing simulation technology : DC Suite. The results of this study is as following. They share many similarities between the stage costumes and digital clothing. It is possible that digital clothing takes a role as a substitute for stage costumes in the production process of the clothing samples. The clothing production system, including stage costumes, by digital clothing costs and lead time can be saved by innovative. Also the result can be saved without restriction, and this system can exert its effect in a very efficient way to incorporation of foreign producers and production system.

• 복식
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• 제67권1호
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• pp.130-146
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• 2017

This study focuses on the Mise-en-abyme theories of Lucien $D{\ddot{a}}llenbach$, and presents research methodology to analyze the modern cinema costume in a new view. Inherent aesthetic values of the costume code shown in the film are as follows. First, esthetics value shown is the analogic code through the maximization of factual realism by directing target. Mise-en-abyme placed in this film plays the role of costume codes, and highlights the subject by presenting specifically targeted realistic icons to maximize the realism of the movie. Second, Mise-en-abyme is deployed to the explicit text through costumes code is placed as Displaced code arrangements. In other words, each of the characters is a signifier. Symbolizing a historical era is the device that represents a self-reflective signifier. Third, paradoxically reflected by the overlapped expansion of virtual reality and the self-referential characteristics and are subject to reflect the thinking of the author. Costumes code placed in Mise-en-abyme is expressed in costumes positioned to maximize the realism in the film as described above, and implies narratives and self-reflective mediating tools that symbolism can be seen that the paradoxical metaphor for the reality and the future. In addition, through the metaphor of visual narrative is allegorical representation Mise-en-abyme with ambiguity, and it is a concrete text that can be realized in a variety of creative storytelling methods and image delivery methods of modern fashion. This study confirmed that this costumes to take the point of view of emotional $Mise-en-sc{\grave{e}}ne$ in the process of completing the film's themes and cinematic devices by identifying the roles and aesthetic value of code costumes as the core subjects that make up the narrative of the film.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.648-665
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• 2002

This study is to analysis on movie costume including the personal characters, social influences and situational effects of the main heroines among the expressions of clothing through the movie, "Gone with the Wind" produced by the MGM Company in America in 1939 with the collapse of the social classes through the American Civil War as its setting. The range of this study is to look into the images of cinema costumes like the colors and silhouette related to the roles based on the movie. According to this study, first, we can see the changing process from crinoline to bustle styles by historical invastigations into clothing styles rather than the images of roles in the aspect of silhouette Scarlet of hanghty and challenging character is shawn in X-type silhouette mainly using capped sleeves and laces and Mellany of obedient and generous character, compared with Scarlet, is showing less detail effects, and is expressed in A-type silhouette of modesty and maturity. Second, there are remarkable differences of colors and details in which starlet who had the pioneer spirit used the vivid tones like red, green and black, and white laces and blades as an accent while Mellany who was considerate and soft used the dark tones like black and blue, and white and blue lace shawls And third, in images, Scarlet who was very positive in sociai activities is expressed as a elegance and romantic images in the sophisticated and modern styles but Mellany who was a good and steady housewife was shown as a elegance image in the mannish styles.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.152-166
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• 2009

By virtue of the development of mass media, the cinema, the composite space art taking the visual and auditory elements together, exhibits the actual life of the realities, thereby having a mutually close relationship to social, cultural and economic fields and continuing to generate the fashion code as well as reflecting the image of the times. Especially, fashion style in movies delivers their image and atmosphere and becomes the means for containing the personality, spiritual world and inner thinking of the characters in the movie and inducing its plot. Therefore, this study was intended to make clear that fashion fuses and shares with a diversity of genres such as movies and the like, becomes the cultural model that proceeds to create a new culture in relation to daily life and induces and presents the trend of contemporary fashion. For this purpose, this study attempted to analyze fashion style in the movie. Lolita is the fiction published by the Russian?American writer Vladimir Nabokov($1899{\sim}1977$) in 1954. It is the fiction that portrays the unethical love between Humbert, a middleaged man, and Lolita, a girl in her 10s. It was cinematized by the director Stanley Kubrick for the first time in 1962 and revived by the movie director Adrian Lyne in 1997. The character of Lolita has a younger look like a girl and looks immature in the movie directed by the movie director Stanley Kubrick and the movie director Adrian Lyne. But the character of Lolita has the commonality that she showed an incomplete female image of having a sexually freewheeling thinking. Thereby, this study sought to prove that the created fashion style of the character in the film not only became the clue to enable us to know the time and space background in the film but also helped the film develop effectively by performing a role of portraying the character in the movie. And it attempted to present that it becomes both the foundation for leading the fashion trend shown in contemporary fashion and the code of mass culture. Fashion style of Lolita in the movie appears to be reflected diversely in mass culture as well as fashion style in the contemporary times.