• Journal of Advanced Research in Ocean Engineering
• /
• v.1 no.3
• /
• pp.157-167
• /
• 2015

In order to provide simple and accurate wave theory in design of offshore structure, an analytical approximation is introduced in this paper. The solution is limited to flat bottom having a constant water depth. Water is considered as inviscid, incompressible and irrotational. The solution satisfies the continuity equation, bottom boundary condition and non-linear kinematic free surface boundary condition exactly. Error for dynamic condition is quite small. The solution is suitable in description of breaking waves. The solution is presented with closed form and dispersion relation is also presented with closed form. In the last century, there have been two main approaches to the nonlinear problems. One of these is perturbation method. Stokes wave and Cnoidal wave are based on the method. The other is numerical method. Dean's stream function theory is based on the method. In this paper, power series method was considered. The power series method can be applied to certain nonlinear differential equations (initial value problems). The series coefficients are specified by a nonlinear recurrence inherited from the differential equation. Because the non-linear wave problem is a boundary value problem, the power series method cannot be applied to the problem in general. But finite number of coefficients is necessary to describe the wave profile, truncated power series is enough. Therefore the power series method can be applied to the problem. In this case, the series coefficients are specified by a set of equations instead of recurrence. By using the set of equations, the nonlinear wave problem has been solved in this paper.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
• /
• 2004.08a
• /
• pp.217-225
• /
• 2004

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Ulsan Harbor and Ulsan New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Ulsan Bay. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macro scale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the development could be easily neglected.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
• /
• v.54 no.1
• /
• pp.39-48
• /
• 2021

The experiment of rip current at successive ends of breaking wave crests was conducted in a laboratory wave basin, and its time-varying evolution according to incident wave durations was observed by using ortho-rectified images. The experiment utilized the generation of a quasi nodal line of the honeycomb-pattern waves (i.e., intersecting wave trains) formed by out-of-phase motion of two piston-type wave makers arranged in the transverse direction, instead of the original honeycomb pattern waves which are generated when two wave trains propagate with slightly different wave directions. The particle moving distance and velocity caused by the rip current were measured by using the particle tracking technique. As a result, the rip current was survived for a while even without incident waves after its generation due to several successive ends of wave crests, and it moved the particles further out to sea.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
• /
• 2003.10a
• /
• pp.226-231
• /
• 2003

The viscous interaction of stern wave is studied by simulating the free-surface flows, including sub-breaking phenomena around a high speed catamaran hull advancing on calm water. The Navier-Stokes equation is solved by a finite difference method where the body-fitted coordinate system, the wall function and the triple-grid system are invoked. The numerical appearance of the sub-breaking waves is qualitatively supported by the experimental observation They are also applied to study precisely on the stern flow of S-103 as to which extensive experimental data are available. For the catamaran, computations are carried out for the mono ana twin hulls.

• Journal of Mechanical Science and Technology
• /
• v.14 no.4
• /
• pp.448-455
• /
• 2000

The bow wave breaking and the viscous interaction of stern wave are studied by simulating the free-surface flows. The Navier-Stokes equation is solved by a finite difference method in which the body-fitted coordinate system, the wall function and the triple-grid system are invoked. After validation, the calculations are extended to turbulent flows. The wave elevation at the Reynolds number of $10^4$ is much less than that at $10^6$ although the Froude number is the same. The numerical appearance of the sub-breaking waves is qualitatively supported by experimental observation. They are also applied to study the stern flow of S-103 for which extensive experimental data are available. Although the interaction between separation and the stern wave generation are not yet clear, the effects of the bow wave on the development of the boundary layer flows are concluded to be significant.

• Journal of Mechanical Science and Technology
• /
• v.19 no.5
• /
• pp.1116-1122
• /
• 2005

A finite element method was used to simulate the wave propagation of laser-generated ultrasound and its interaction with surface breaking cracks in an elastic material. Thermoelastic laser line source on the material surface was approximated as a shear dipole and loaded as nodal forces in the plane-strain finite element (FE) model. The shear dipole- FE model was tested for the generation of ultrasound on the surface with no defect. The model was found to generate the Rayleigh surface wave. The model was then extended to examine the interaction of laser generated ultrasound with surface-breaking cracks of various depths. The crack-scattered waves were monitored to size the crack depth. The proposed model clearly reproduced the experimentally observed features that can be used to characterize the presence of surface-breaking cracks.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.36 no.2
• /
• pp.101-107
• /
• 2022

Dean (1965) proposed the use of the root mean square error (RMSE) in the dynamic free surface boundary condition (DFSBC) and kinematic free-surface boundary condition (KFSBC) as an error evaluation criterion for wave theories. There are well known wave theories with RMSE more than 1%, such as Airy theory, Stokes theory, Dean's stream function theory, Fenton's theory, and trochodial theory for deep-water waves. However, none of them can be applied for deep-water breaking waves. The purpose of this study is to provide a closed-form solution for deep-water waves with RMSE less than 1% even for breaking waves. This study is based on a previous study (Shin, 2016), and all flow fields were simplified for deep-water waves. For a closed-form solution, all Fourier series coefficients and all related parameters are presented with Newton's polynomials, which were determined by curve fitting data (Shin, 2016). For verification, a wave in Miche's limit was calculated, and, the profiles, velocities, and the accelerations were compared with those of 5^th-order Stokes theory. The results give greater velocities and acceleration than 5^th-order Stokes theory, and the wavelength depends on the wave height. The results satisfy the Laplace equation, bottom boundary condition (BBC), and KFSBC, while Stokes theory satisfies only the Laplace equation and BBC. RMSE in DFSBC less than 7.25×10^-2% was obtained. The series order of the proposed method is three, but the series order of 5^th-order Stokes theory is five. Nevertheless, this study provides less RMSE than 5^th-order Stokes theory. As a result, the method is suitable for offshore structural design.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
• /
• v.37 no.6
• /
• pp.461-466
• /
• 2004

This study presents a combined experimental and numerical effort to investigate wave breaking of sinusoidal waves in a surf zone. Numerical predictions are verified by comparing to laboratory measurements. The model solves the Reynolds equations and$textsc{k}$-$\varepsilon$ models for the turbulence analysis. To track the free surface displacement, the volume of fluid method is employed. As the height of incident wave increases, the wave breaking occurs at a closer point of the slope in the numerical model and laboratory experiments with the same depth and period. When a wave breaking occurs, the ratio of wave height becomes larger, with the same wave height and depth, as the period increases.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.13 no.4
• /
• pp.296-308
• /
• 2001

A fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation of Wei et al. is finite differenced by Adams predictor-corrector method. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the domain and wale breaking mechanism is included in the equation. The generated waves are found to be good and the corresponding wale heights are very close to the target values. The shoaling of solitary wave and transformation of regular wave over submerged shelf were simulated successfully. The characteristics of breaking mechanism was identified through the numerical experiment and the results of two dimensional wave propagation test over the spherical shoal showed the importance of nonlinear wave model.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.18 no.2
• /
• pp.166-177
• /
• 2006

The accuracy impact of using high-order Boussinesq-type model as compared to the typical order model is examined in this paper. The multi-layer model developed by Lynett and Liu(2004a) is used for simulating of wave breaking over a shelf region. The nonlinearity of the waves tested, ${k_0}{A_0}$, ranges from 0.029 to 0.180. The overall agreement between the two-layer model and the hydraulic experiments are quite good. The one-layer model overshoals the wave near the breakpoint, while the two-layer model shoals at a rate more consistent with the experimental data.