Journal of Korea Water Resources Association (한국수자원학회논문집)

Korea Water Resources Association (한국수자원학회)
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Wave Breaking of Sinusoidal Waves in the Surf Zone

쇄파대에서 정현파의 쇄파

  • Hwang, Jong-Kil (Graduate Student, Dept. of Sivil Engineerin, Hanyaang University) ;
  • Kim, Young-Taek (Graduate Student, Dept. of Sivil Engineerin, Hanyaang University) ;
  • Cho, Yong-Sik (Dept. of Sivil Engineerin, Hanyaang University)
  • 황종길 (한양대학교 대학원 토목공학과) ;
  • 김영택 (한양대학교 대학원 토목공학과) ;
  • 조용식 (한양대학교 공과대학 토목공학과)
  • Published : 2004.06.01
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Abstract

This study presents a combined experimental and numerical effort to investigate wave breaking of sinusoidal waves in a surf zone. Numerical predictions are verified by comparing to laboratory measurements. The model solves the Reynolds equations and$textsc{k}$-$\varepsilon$ models for the turbulence analysis. To track the free surface displacement, the volume of fluid method is employed. As the height of incident wave increases, the wave breaking occurs at a closer point of the slope in the numerical model and laboratory experiments with the same depth and period. When a wave breaking occurs, the ratio of wave height becomes larger, with the same wave height and depth, as the period increases.

본 연구에서는 쇄파대에서 정현파의 쇄파에 대해 수리모형실험과 수치모형실험을 수행하였으며, 두 실험결과를 비교하였다. 수치해석 모형에서는 Reynolds 방정식을 지배방정식으로 사용하고 난류해석을 위해 $textsc{k}$-$\varepsilon$ 모델을 적용하였으며, 자유수면변위를 추적하기 위해 VOF기법을 사용하였다. 수리모형실험과 수치모형실험 모두 동일한 수심과 주기를 가질 경우, 입사파의 파고가 커질수록 쇄파발생 지점이 경사시작 지점으로부터 가까운 위치로 이동하는 경향을 보였다. 또한, 쇄파발생시 파고비(H/H$_{0}$)는 동일한 수심과 파고를 가질 경우, 주기가 커질수록 증가하는 경향을 보였다.

Keywords

References

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