• Journal of Institute of Control, Robotics and Systems
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.141-150
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• 1998

This paper presents a dynamical anti-reset windup (ARW) compensation method for saturating control systems with multiple controllers and/or multiloop configuration. By regarding the difference of controller states in the absence and presence of saturating actuators as an objective function, the dynamical compensator which minimizes the objective function is derived in an integrated fashion. The proposed dynamical compensator is a closed form of plant and controller parameters. The resulting dynamics of compensated controller reflects the linear closed-loop system. The proposed method guarantees total stability of the resulting system. The effectiveness of the proposed method is illustrated by applying it to a servo motor control system. The paper is an extension of the results in Park and Choi[1].

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.173-186
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• 2002

Street Style, occurred in British and America, has been expressed the character of the new generation by repeating developments and changes. Nowadays, pop music reflects the phase of society. and simultaneously it has influence on from culture to society. Rock Music was rooted in Country 8l western of America. Upon Country & Western, Afro-Americans Rhythm & Blues was added, and that was the birth of Rockabilly. Rockabilly developed to Rock'n 'roll and it started to change to various forms of Rock since 1950s. As the commercial impact and the breakthrough of teenagers emotion, the rock culture comprised the base of the youth culture. However. it formed the anti-establishment culture against the established value, accepting working class subculture. The teenager culture was affected by the Rock culture, also found relief in the opulence provided by the established generation, imitating it as it was. Simultaneously, it had a contrary aspect as anti-establishment form under the banner of revolt against languor in richness. The youth culture created street style that was escaped from high fashion, every time Rock music had changes. Since Street style was based on resistance of established culture and it fully refused vogue, it was indifferent from high fashion. The results of this study were as following. First, every time Rock music had changes, the new youth culture was concomitant with, the youth culture created street style. Secondly, rockahibilly style was characterized as diamond shaped design, embroidery, extra wide shirt collar, vivid contrast color . Rockers style was represented as metal studs, beads, denim, leather jacket, boots. Fusion of hippies style and Psychedelic, long hair, beads. worn denim were elements of headbangers style. Punks style was characterized as ripped T-shirt. rooster hair, over decorated jacket, short skirt. net or plastic T-shirt. Lastly, the firm relation between popular art and fashion was proved by examining the history of Rock Music and Street Style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.14-26
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze Jacqueline Kennedy and Michelle Obama's fashion style from a perspective of modernism and postmodernism. The method utilized in this study was first, to examine the properties of modernism and postmodernism. Next, we explored the types of role performance of the first ladies and the application of their fashion as an aid to their roles through the precedents of the research concerning modernism and postmodernism. The results of the study are as follows. First, there was a trend of formalism and anti-formalism. Jacqueline Kennedy made her public appearances wearing a formal dress in order to express the first lady's authoritarian figure of restrained elegance. The fashion of the first lady aspired to formalism. Meanwhile, Michelle Obama followed more of a free style by eschewing the typical formality of the first lady. She created diverse styles utilizing a variety of items, which were not interrupted by form or by using heterogeneous items. Second, there is a trend of elitism and populism. While Jacqueline Kennedy preferred only haute couture designers' costume in order to show the prestige and dignity of the upper class, Michelle Obama patronized unknown designers' clothing or mid-level casual brand goods that the public favors in order to interact with the public through her fashion. Third, while modernism regards totality or unity to be important, postmodernism puts an emphasis on the eclecticism by pursuing complexity and diversity through the deconstruction of an indigenous genre. In case of Jacqueline Kennedy, this tendency featured monotone clothing color, which presented a unified full set dress that excluded decoration. Michelle Obama, in contrast, mixed and matched formal dresses and a casual cardigan or felicitously mixed luxury brand or low to middle priced brand goods.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.109-117
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• 2020

This study aims to analyze typographic expressions used in recent fashion trends from the perspective of conceptual art and thus identify a variety of meanings. Towards this end, theoretical considerations were made vis-à-vis the main concepts of research, such as typography and conceptual art, and the ready-made, documentation, intervention and language, which are the expressive features of conceptual art, were applied to fashion typography as analytical frameworks. The results are as follows. The ready-made appears in a way that borrows or transforms the visual identity of other brands, and documentation is utilized in a way that lays tautological or contradictory texts together. Intervention arises, while leading to more complex layers of meaning when borrowing the visual identity of the brand, which is conceptually irrelevant. The language is expressed as statements about contemporary social issues, such as environmental protection, ethical consumption and gender problems. Based on the findings of this study, it can be confirmed that in fashion design, typography serves as an effective marketing tool and a medium of social statements. Moreover, it can expand into the possibility of generating new meanings as a novel way of visual expression.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.115-125
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• 2020

Rider jackets were once reserved for military uniforms but have become an important styling item in recent fashion trends. The design characteristics of the rider jacket are rooted in symbolism, and the image associated with a rider jacket is in line with the challenging of authority and being a member of the rebellious youth subculture. Usually, young people with anti-social tendencies wore jackets, and some styles were used as a medium to express their emotional homogeneity, and they received favorable responses as the items represented them. The design characteristics of a rider jacket can be largely divided into resistance against the older generation, violence, challenging cultural norms, sexuality, and resistance, as well as embodying violent characteristics, including strength, courage. and male chauvinism. The reason for the development of these challenging characteristics are disparagement and anger of the lower class, who were excluded from mainstream society. Rider jackets can be viewed negatively due to the kind of message it is conveying against mainstream society. Among the sexual features were leather pants, short-length leather rider jackets, glossy metal accessories, and belt buckles, which also highlighted gay and decadent images that came to be associated with the jackets. The drapery created various kinds of wrinkles according to the way of dressing, and it had beautiful expressiveness while serving to express the body more beautifully. Drapery can be classified according to the aesthetic characteristics or expression techniques, and if the type of drapery is classified according to the morphological characteristics, it can be classified into variable and fixed structures, depending on whether the part to which the drapery is applied is fluid or not. In other words, it depends on the dressing method or the intention, and if the drapery technique is directly applied to the garment or is attached to the form. This fashion design proposal may have the greatest significance in that it sought to propose a new style incorporating a drapery technique with a strong feminine image to a rider jacket, which traditionally was associated with a masculine image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.4 s.94
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• pp.62-78
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• 2005

The modern period was the time that the most radical and extensive social and mental changes were occurring throughout the history, and modernism was prevailing as a general cognition system of people. Modernism, which carries principles of progress, belief in application of scientific technology, worship of reason, ideal of liberty as a col-e value of civilization, was plated as a leading ideology in the realm of society, culture and art In the early 20th century. In this study, the formative characteristics of modernism seen in architecture and fashion are analogized and analyzed in four ways ell the basis of the theory of p. Greenhalgh. First, 'Standardization for mass-production', which is analogized which P. Greenhalgh's 'Decompart-mentalisation', 'Social Morality', and' Technology'. Standardization for mass-production in architecture focuses on the development of a design prototype in order to mass produce; the development of ready-made clothes is actively done ill the fashion area for the same purpose as well. Second, 'Rational functionality' coming from P. Greenhalgh's 'The total work of art' and 'Function'. While rational functionality in architecture puts an emphasis on the rational operation of all the functions in regard to the relation between each part and the whole, rational functionality in fashion call be mainly seen in a dramatic increase in physical activity which could be hardly found before the modernism period. Namely, all the fashion design elements are developed for a certain rational and functional design on each part as well as on the whole in order to greatly increase physical activity. Third, 'the pursuit for genuineness of objects and universality of beauty' is on the analogy of P Greenhalgh's 'Truth', 'Anti-historicism', 'Abstraction', 'Internationalism/Universality'. This idea is adopted in architecture in the form of design of geometrical abstraction. In the same way, design using geometrical abstraction comes to have a significant meaning in fashion of the modernism period. So to speak, modernism architecture and fashion can be reborn to become an inter·national style by giving up the decorative and regional design prevailing before modernism and by expressing universal aesthetics in the form of simplicity and abstraction instead. Fourth, 'Expression of progress through a change in a viewpoint' stems from P. Greenhalgh's 'Progress', 'Transformation of Consciousness', 'Theology'. In architecture, this concept appears by using new construction materials and methods and by representing new aesthetical idea. As a result, it makes it possible for people to make progress for better lives. Like in architecture, new attempts for material application and processing are made in fashion. This gives rise to a general change in a viewpoint related to fashion, so that a flew fashion design which there has never been before can come out.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.334-347
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• 2013

This study obtains information required for a comprehensive understanding of the brand-switching behavior by cosmetics consumers and for the establishment of effective strategies to make customers more loyal to the company. The study examines the relationships between customer shopping orientation and brand switching motives with respect to cosmeceuticals. A descriptive survey method using a self-administered questionnaire was employed. The sample consisted of 1,258 females between the ages of 20's and 30's residing in Seoul and the Gyeonggi area who use whitening products, sunscreen, or other anti-aging cosmetics. The results showed that shopping orientation influenced brand-switching motives in regards to purchasing cosmeceuticals. The orientation of depending on information and seeking fashion trend were the major factors to induce brand-switching behavior in purchasing whitening products, sunscreen, and anti-aging treatments. However, there were differences in the type of factors of shopping orientation and in their intensity of affecting brand-switching motives depending on the specific cosmeceuticals. In particular, in the case of sunscreen, as compared to other products, the customer shopping orientation should be considered from more diverse perspectives in order to formulate effective marketing strategies related to brand switching. In light of these results, customer shopping orientation with respect to cosmeceuticals is a variable that influences the cause brand switching. Therefore, differentiated marketing strategies that reflect the different characteristics of shopping orientation according to each item of cosmeceuticals are recommended to improve the satisfaction level of the companies' target market. Current consumer needs for practical benefits and for new products should be simultaneously reflected in the plans for new product development of each type of cosmeceutical.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.3
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• pp.516-529
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• 2018

This study investigated the dyeing properties and bio-functions of cotton fabrics dyed with naturally fermented Ecklonia cava extract in order to compare it with a comparison of unfermented extract. Hot water-extracted Ecklonia cava was fermented naturally under the various conditions of a fermenting period (2-8 days) and amount of molasses (0.1-1.8% v/v); in addition, it was also tested for characterization by FT-IR, antioxidant activity, total polyphenol content, and anti-microbial activity. For dyed cotton fabrics, color strength (K/S), physical color properties, dyeing fastness, sun protective property, and anti-microbial activity were evaluated considering dyeing conditions. As a result, the fermented dye under fermentation condition of 0.1% v/v with molasses during 4 days was revealed as having a similar chemical structure to the unfermented one and showed a total polyphenol content with 32.88mg/g and better antioxidant activity than the unfermented one. As for dyed fabrics, the color strength value by K/S was the highest under the condition of 0.1% v/v of molasses during 4 days among all fermenting conditions. The dyed fabrics had a reasonably good fastness (except for light). Anti-microbial activity against K. pneumoniae was better for the fermented extract-dyed fabric especially with lower dye concentrations.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.87-100
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• 2007

This study aims at analyzing the characteristics of deconestructionism expressed in Issey Myake's fashion who is one of the most creative designers in the world. Method and contents of this study are as follows. Through the review of literatures, three major categories such as interminacy of meaning, decentring, and intertextuality and eight subcategories have been identified as major features of deconestructionism. These subcategories for content analysis were selected to examine the characteristics of deconstructionism expressed in Issey Myake's design in depth. Interminacy of meaning was divided into unstructured and unconstructed factors while decentring into qualities of cross-gender, subculture, anti-fashion, and post-humanism. Lastly, intertextuality was classified into factors of disordered mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from total 349 designs on the website,www.firstview.com, which carries Issey Miyake's collection from 2002 S/S through 2006 F/W. 2 fashion major analysts including the researcher participated in 1st analysis and two another fashion major analysts participated in 2nd analysis. The final level of consistency between analysts was over 97% for all categories. The data analysis quantitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and qualitatively evaluates the characteristics of design. The result is as follows. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, Miyake has introduced the various novelly textiles to fashion and employed the mixtured styles, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has used various fabrics in order to inflict shock and contrast but still create subtle harmony, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of Miyake's fashion design. Miyake has employed unconstructed expression techniques, which has projected unusual images free from basic forms of designs and also has used the unstructured styles which dismantle harmony and balance-the common rule of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. He has demonstrated a unique perspective on cloth construction and presented a love for artistic collaboration in the development of his collections A distinct manufactured aesthetic is exaggerated, even hyperbolic. Thirdly, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in Miyake's design, however, it has been visibly decreased after 2002 S/S.

• Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.282-287
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• 1996

Cnidii rhizoma is one of the most important crude drugs used particularly for the treatment of female genital inflammatory diseases in traditional oriental medicine. In this study, its anti-inflammatory and analgesic activities were examined employing animal models. It was found that $H_2O$ extract and n-BuOH fraction inhibited significantly the edema formation after the subplantar injection of carrageenin at oral doses of 100 and 200 mg/kg in a dose-dependent fashion, where MeOH extract showed significant anti-inflammatory activity at a oral dose of 200 mg/kg. In Freund's complete adjuvant-induced arthritis, H2O extract and n-BuOH fraction exerted their significant inhibitory activity on the edema formation at oral doses of 100 and 200 mg/kg. The $H_2O$ extract and n-BuOH fraction also showed significant analgesic activity in a dose-dependent manner in acetic acid-induced writhing test.