• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제14호
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• pp.114-120
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• 1998

In early 20th century a tendency of composite art -the aesthetical historian's struggle to unify various genres including paintings with architecture -appered which was created on the basis of spacial thoughts. On aesthetic interpretation of arts the object of aesthetic cognition is formed not just by itself but by aesthetic consciousness systems and this means the object can be classified with basic type that has various figures within its aesthetic categories. Here this study is purposed to prescribe space as an object of aesthetic cognition and define its conceptional characteristics stylistic expressions then to play a role as basic study of aesthetics of architectural space forming aesthetic cognition and analysis of architecture.

• 복식
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• 제59권2호
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• pp.42-58
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• 2009

This study researches previous aesthetic categories and organizes new one which is applied to fashion design. With the frame of the new aesthetic category, a survey about aesthetic consciousness and aesthetic enjoyment are conducted. Also, this study discusses about the variety of the aesthetic consciousness and aesthetic enjoyment which are arisen from peculiarity of fashion and the necessity of the systemized criticizing theory. Through the survey of aesthetic consciousness about fashion designer's clothes, there are possibilities of varieties in visions and critics about fashion works. But it is necessary to read in right way about kunstwollen and symbolic meaning of designer. In order to read aesthetic consciousness inside of a fashion designer's works properly, the interpretation method which follows in systematized phases such as iconology and semiology is necessary. Contemplation for the 'clothes' which is a part of an art Is not just simply see the object and judge subjectively but examine the factors which have influenced to the formation, kunstwollen, and symbolic meaning. Also, the process and the attitude which enjoy the aesthetic value have to be analyzed and criticized which based on systemized interpretation frame. The 'Clothes' is one artistic object which expresses kunstwollen of fashion designer and he or she puts in a sentiment and an ideology into the clothes and which reflects the present society and effects to the descendant.

• 복식
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• 제58권8호
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• pp.74-90
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• 2008

Since the late of 20th Century, philosophy, art, and aesthetics have attention to the movement of object that persue the dynamics and qualitative change, not existing fixed and quantitative object. Qualitative continuity, including discontinuity of specific spot and surface that occurs sudden change, is distinct characteristics considered in contemporary logo civilization, which combines and disperses according as various purpose among the different elements and objects. Therefore, I studied about the characteristics of qualitative continuity that creates the change and the differentiation continuously through the "formative characteristics of the continuity expressed in contemporary fashion" of my preceding paper. This paper is the following study of above mentioned paper, and Investigates about aesthetic consciousness leading to the various change. This is intends to consider the trans-aesthetic consciousness that accepts dynamic movement and change the different object and reforms new relationship continuously. This studies' conclusion is as follows; 1) sublimity-Infinity, de-constructive, excessive 2) jouissance - functional, structural 3) paradox-perceptual, spatial. A study about the trans-aesthetic consciousness would help to offer philosophical basis, and make a change building aesthetic foundation in explaining various relationship like as phenomenon of the retro, neo, post, fusion expressed since the late of 20th Century.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.66-78
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to illuminate the location of fashion in contemporary society and to suggest a direction for fashion criticism in aesthetic$\hat{u}$cultural perspective. For this, literature researches about some of art criticism and fashion criticism theories and cultural studies related to fashion are performed. In this study, fashion criticism is defined as a linguistic analysis and interpretation about a variety of discursive networks around fashion as well as an aesthetic analysis of it. Considering this definition, an analytical framework for the contemporary fashion criticism combines Feldman's and Carney's models with Crane & Bovone's and Entwistle's sociological studies for aesthetic and cultural perspectives. At first, its aesthetic perspective shows 'Description'-'Descriptive formative features', 'Analysis'-'Locate the style' and 'Aesthetic value', 'Interpretation'- 'Interpretation of the fashion object' and 'Socio-cultural interpretation', 'Judgment'-'Critical judgment'. Then, its cultural perspective especially emphasizes 'Socio-cultural interpretation' of the 6 steps above. Socio-cultural interpretation gets tangled with the network of various cultural agents within the fashion system, producers/designers, retailers/suppliers, media/editors, consumers/spectators, and so on. In the course of the fashion system 5 analytical methods about the fashion object can be suggested and they are as follows: Analyses of texts, discourses and symbols of a fashion object, Analyses of fashion systems which produces symbolic values, Analyses of the communication of symbolic values and the disseminating processes through the media, Analyses of the attribution of symbolic values to a fashion object by consumers, and Cross-national studies of symbolic values expressed in a fashion object.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.15-25
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• 2008

Today, each country's cultural communications are carried briskly and Japan already showed a new trend of world fashion by accepting its own design with aesthetic sense to western Europe in 1970s and built the new area of Japanese fashion. This special traditional aesthetic sense, formed by social, cultural, geographic and religious conditions, is roughly divided into decorated and undecorated beauty; decorated one means splendidness, coquetry, exaggeration and was represented ornamental modification of nature object in dress pattern as ornamental expression means; undecorated one, based on Zen-thought, means simplicity, purity, ugliness and Japan gave rise to the new beauty by receiving and adapting continental culture to its culture openly and creating and developing its own beauty. This study aims to examine the aesthetic sense shown in Japanese traditional dress and understand how traditional beauty is used and applied to modern fashion and analyze the diversity of Japanese traditional aesthetic sense shown in modern fashion. For material analysis, total 220 were collected of photograph related to formative element existence according to aesthetic sense shown in Japanese traditional fashion design using literature research and visual data. The existences of Japanese image among them were confirmed by clothing and fashion department majors so that 7 pieces of which were selected as final analysis object. Likewise, the result suggests that Japanese traditional aesthetic sense creates global design based on folk element-used identity as well as new beauty by adapting continental culture to its culture openly and producing and developing its own creative beauty.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권4호
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• pp.746-762
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• 2016

This study considers expression techniques and aesthetic values in the images of head dress reflected in a natural motif. The conclusions of the study are as follows. The first type is the realistic expression (52.4%) such as the reproduction of a natural object's essential form (27.0%), the partial derivation of the natural object (19.3%), and the planarization for the actual image of the natural object (6.1%). The second type is a metaphorical expression (39.0%) which emphasizes the morphological characteristics of nature (18.2%), the structuration of the natural object's silhouette into a three-dimensional or two-dimensional form (11.5%), and the abstract expression of the form in the natural object (9.3%). The third type is a hybrid expression (8.6%) that is a compromise between practical (or metaphorical expressions) so that expression techniques represent a compromise between the natural object's essential form and abstract expression (4.6%) or the combination of the natural object's silhouette into a three-dimensional or a two-dimensional visualization (4.0%). Aesthetic head dress values reflected in the natural motif first indicate a primitive value. This state of natural instinct recreates the natural object or combines part of the biological elements of the natural object to create an inducement to escape from the practical world. The second is amusement in the expression of animals in dynamic and humorous forms creates an illusion of animals being alive with a representative playful enjoyment. The third is abstraction that grant freedom in the observer's aesthetic rational through a reinterpretation of the fashion designer. The fourth is eclecticism where a compromise represents an act of mixing a variety of independent factors to create harmony with the imagery of nature created through the grafting of diverse expression techniques that break away from stereotypes of existing natural objects to create a type of nature that cultivates new values.

• 영상문화
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• 제35권
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• pp.5-33
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• 2019

본 논문에서는 장 폴 사르트르(Jean-Paul Sartre, 1905-1980)의 상상력 이론과 그의 '비실재 미학'에서 핵심적인 자리를 차지하고 있는 '아날로공' 개념이 지닌 의의와 문제점을 살펴보고, 이에 대한 미켈 뒤프렌(Mikel Dufrenne, 1910-1995)의 반론을 중심으로 그의 미적 지각에 대한 이론을 검토한다. 지각하는 행위와 상상하는 행위의 극단적인 이분법에 기초하고 있는 사르트르의 상상력 이론은 『상상력』(1936)과 『상상계』(1940)라는 두 권의 저작에서 구체화되고 있고, 거기서 사르트르는 아름다움이란 결코 실재에 속하는 것이 아니라 "상상적인 것에만 적용될 수 있는 가치" 이고 따라서 "예술 작품은 하나의 비실재"라고 결론내리고 있 다. 이에 대해 뒤프렌은 사르트르의 '비실재 미학'이 일반 지각이론에 적용되는 상상력 이론을 예술 작품의 감상에까지 확대 적용하고, '상상적인 것'을 '비실재'와 동일시함으로써 생긴 오류라고 본다. 뒤프렌의 관점에서 볼 때 "예술은 상상하는 것을 허락하지 않는다". 예술 작품의 의미가 비실재인 것은 맞더라도 그것이 상상적인 것은 아니다. 미적 대상의 의미는 실재하는 것 속에서, 즉 지각된 감각물 속에서 찾아져야 하며, 이때 상상력의 역할은 실재에 의해 제공된 영역을 끊임없이 확장하고 거기에 시공간적인 깊이를 제공함으로써 실재로서의 농도와 견고성을 확보하고 무궁무진한 총체성을 지닌 하나의 세계로 통합시키는 것이다. 아날로공으로 명명되는 지각된 대상물의 지위에 대한 문제가 사르트르와 뒤프렌 사이의 미학적 입장을 가르는 근본적인 문제이다.

• 복식
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• 제52권8호
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• pp.41-54
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• 2002

This study discusses the beauty of the ideal body shown by fashion communication media, and explains how aesthetic aspects of, the body are being expressed in contemporary fashion. The beauty of the body may be considered as the beauty of sexual, controllable or consumable object. First. the most vigorously discussed point about the body is its sexual aspect, the most outstanding of which is the voluptuous and the androgynous beauty in contemporary fashion. Second, the body is an object which has been oppressed or controlled under the name of history. morality. and rationality. The things making us regard the body itself as an aesthetic object may be considered as dynamic and functional beauty Third, the sexual instinct and the body are fetishized as consumer goods, and women's bodies are presented as comsumer objects whose most parts could be restored to exchangeable value. The consumable beauty presented in contemporary fashion is the conspicuous beauty and the decadent beauty. So far, the various aspects of the beautiful body has been considered, based on the beauty of the ideal body shown by the fashion communication media. Man exists through on his body. but it is the embodied and formed body that serves as a means to manifest his social status and cultural ties. A natural body is reformed as a cultural phenomenon in various artificial ways. Popular culture has transmitted a series of new body image by creating and reproducing symbols and images, and has made the ideal body. Now there is not only one standard for the ideal beauty in our society. The standard of the beauty has changed continuously. There has been an aesthetic sense which can represent the times during the process of those changes. The various communication media have played a role of mirror reflecting those changes. The ideal body in contemporary times is no more an abstract media to express classical beauty, but an object directly affecting us, who are living in the crisis of subjectivity and identity.

• 복식
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• 제23권
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• pp.197-209
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to present a way to analyze and review the subjective view of the aesthetic for dress based on the framework of the aesthetic categories suggested by aesthetics. In order to define objectivism and subjectivism of the aesthetic of dress, theoretical studies on the aesthetic categories of dress were precded. And empirical studies on the aethetic categories of dress for selected period, the Renaissance (16th century) and the Baroque(17 th century). The results were follows : The objectivism of the aesthetic is the point of that an object causes human to feel and judge aesthetically, that is that of dress means judge aesthetically, that is that of dress means formal characteristic of dress and pervasive ideology expressed in dress. the subjectivism of the aesthetic is the point that the aesthetic is ruted in human, that is that of dress has been studied in relation to the image, the aesthetic consciousness m, or the aesthetic categories of dress. Especially, the aesthetic category is one of the universal and valid methods for the analysis of subjectivism of the aesthetic for dress. This study includes beauty, grace, elegance , the sublime, the tragic , the comic, aptness, ugliness as aesthetic categories of dress . Beauty is perfection and rule. Grace pleases human by sense. Elegance comes from the harmony of sense and spirit. the sublime comes into existence that human feels pleasure as well as displeasure simultaneously when human is overehelmed by objects. The tragic is the sense of the present of something valuable even if there is suffering. The comic is the sense of the presence of something amusing even if there is displeasure caused by contradiction. Apteness means utility in terms of the objectivism and , formality in terms of the subejctivism. Ugliness is opposite to beauty. As the result of emperical studies, the aesthetic categories of the Renaissance dress showed harmonious, balanced, and symmetrical beauty, and the magnificent, and enlarged sublime. In addition to these , grace and elegance were also found to some extent. Aesthetic categories of the Baroque dress show feminie, soft, cheerful, and fantastic grace, asymmetric , disarmonious, and extraordinary uglinesss, and the magnificient , grave, and dignified sublime.

• 복식
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• 제47권
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• pp.143-160
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• 1999

The purpose of this dissertation is to interpret fashion through a socio-cultural phenomenon called kitsch by understanding its aesthetic characteristics and clarifying its significance in the modern consumer society and analyzing the examples of kitsch appearing in modern fashion. The following are the arguments and conclusion of this dissertation. First kitsch has negative meanings such as aesthetic inadequacy or bad tastes implying vulgar popular tastes of faked sensations just imitating elite culture and using things indiscriminately for inferior reproduction or at best the philosophical and aesthetic category that expresses the mass of people's attitudes toward life in accepting the consumer culture of the industrial society. It started from the art of romanticism accompanied by th commercializing of art with the bourgeois society background formed in the mid-19th century. Though kitsch started to prevail following the socio-cultural changes caused by the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century it is only in the late 20th century that kitsch has come tc our everyday life and has become an object of aesthetic arguments. Second formative characteristics of kitsch appearin in fashion have a cumulative inadequate romantic pleasure-seeking satirizing and multicomplex nature. Third the socio-cultural meanings of kitsch appearing in fashion are as follows: The extension of commercialism which gratifies the pleasure-seeking mass consumers the enlargement of the aesthetic category by inclining to everyday commonplace aesthetic sense the expression of one's identity through the gratification of desire and the new aesthetics of resistance and deviance by an anti-traditional and anti-elite tendency towards the traditional society and aesthetic values.