Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.1.66

A Theoretical Reconsideration of Contemporary Fashion Criticism  

Choi, Kyung Hee (Div. of Apparel Fashion & Business, Hansung University)
Publication Information
Fashion & Textile Research Journal / v.16, no.1, 2014 , pp. 66-78 More about this Journal
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to illuminate the location of fashion in contemporary society and to suggest a direction for fashion criticism in aesthetic$\hat{u}$cultural perspective. For this, literature researches about some of art criticism and fashion criticism theories and cultural studies related to fashion are performed. In this study, fashion criticism is defined as a linguistic analysis and interpretation about a variety of discursive networks around fashion as well as an aesthetic analysis of it. Considering this definition, an analytical framework for the contemporary fashion criticism combines Feldman's and Carney's models with Crane & Bovone's and Entwistle's sociological studies for aesthetic and cultural perspectives. At first, its aesthetic perspective shows 'Description'-'Descriptive formative features', 'Analysis'-'Locate the style' and 'Aesthetic value', 'Interpretation'- 'Interpretation of the fashion object' and 'Socio-cultural interpretation', 'Judgment'-'Critical judgment'. Then, its cultural perspective especially emphasizes 'Socio-cultural interpretation' of the 6 steps above. Socio-cultural interpretation gets tangled with the network of various cultural agents within the fashion system, producers/designers, retailers/suppliers, media/editors, consumers/spectators, and so on. In the course of the fashion system 5 analytical methods about the fashion object can be suggested and they are as follows: Analyses of texts, discourses and symbols of a fashion object, Analyses of fashion systems which produces symbolic values, Analyses of the communication of symbolic values and the disseminating processes through the media, Analyses of the attribution of symbolic values to a fashion object by consumers, and Cross-national studies of symbolic values expressed in a fashion object.
Keywords
art; culture; fashion criticism;
Citations & Related Records
Times Cited By KSCI : 1  (Citation Analysis)
연도 인용수 순위
1 Barrett, T. (2004). Criticizing art (T. H. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: ArtBooks. (Original work published 2000)
2 Carney, J. D. (1994). A historical theory of art criticism. Journal of Aesthetic Education, 28(1), 13-29.   DOI   ScienceOn
3 Crane, D., & Bovone, L. (2006). Approaches to material culture: The sociology of fashion and clothing. Poetics, 34, 319-333.   DOI   ScienceOn
4 Crane, D. (2012). Boundaries: Using cultural theory to unravel the complex relationship between fashion and art. In A. Geczy & V. Karaminas (Eds.), Fashion and art (pp. 99-110). London, NY:Berg.
5 Cronin, A. M. (2004). Regimes of mediation: Advertising practitioners as cultural intermediaries?. Consumption, Markets and Culture, 7(4), 349-369.   DOI   ScienceOn
6 Entwistle, J. (2002). The aesthetic economy: The production of value in the field of fashion modeling. Journal of Consumer Culture, 2(3), 317-339.   DOI
7 Entwistle, J. (2006). The cultural economy of fashion buying. Current Sociology, 54(5), 704-724.   DOI   ScienceOn
8 Feldman, E. B. (1967). Art as image and idea. Englewood Cliffs, NJ:Prentice-Hall, Inc.
9 Fiore, A. M., & Kimle, P. A. (1997). Understanding aesthetics for the merchandising & design professional. New York: Fairchild Publications.
10 Geczy, A., & Karaminas, V. (2012). Fashion and art: Critical crossovers. In A. Geczy & V. Karaminas (Eds.), Fashion and art (pp. 1-12). London, NY: Berg.
11 Hamilton, J. A. (1987). Dress as a cultural sub-system: A unifying metatheory for clothing and textiles. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 6(1), 1-7.   DOI
12 Hollander, A. (1993). Seeing through clothes. Berkeley: University of California Press.
13 Kaufman, D. A. (2012). Interpretation and the “Investigative” concept of criticism. Journal of the Theoretical Humanities, 17(1), 3-11.
14 Kim, M. J. (2004). 복식미를 보는 시각 - 복식미학 강의 1 [Perspectives for dress beauty - lecture on aesthetics in dress I]. Seoul: Kyomunsa.
15 Kim, S. B. (1998). Is fashion art?. Fashion Theory, 2(1), 51-71.   DOI
16 Lee, J. T. (2004). Rethinking fashion: Fashion, art and the anthropology of art - a case of the Vivienne Westwood exhibition at the V&A - . International Journal of Costume, 4, 131-144.   과학기술학회마을
17 Lee, Y. Y. (2006). Methodological approaches to aesthetic research on dress - Focused on a model for dress criticism -. Journal of the Korean Home Economics, 44(11), 35-42.   과학기술학회마을
18 Miller, S. (2007). Fashion as art; is fashion art?. Fashion Theory, 11(1), 25-40.   DOI
19 Park, H. R. (2007). 미술감상과 미술비평 교육[Art appreciation and art criticism]. Seoul: SigongArt.
20 Saisselin, R. G. (1959). From Baudelaire to Christian Dior: The poetics of fashion. Journal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism, 18(1), 110-115.
21 Sibley, F. (1959). Aesthetic Concepts. Philosophical Review, 68(4), 421-450.   DOI   ScienceOn
22 Sproles, G. (1985). Behavioral science theories of fashion. In M. R. Solomon (Ed.). The psychology of fashion (pp. 55-70). New York: Lexington.
23 Steele, V. (2012). Fashion. In A. Geczy & V. Karaminas (Eds.), Fashion and art (pp. 13-28). London, NY: Berg.
24 Taylor, M. (2005). Culture transition: Fashion's cultural dialogue between commerce and art. Fashion Theory, 9(4), 445-460.   DOI
25 Troy, N. (2012). Art. In A. Geczy & V. Karaminas (Eds.), Fashion and art (pp. 29-42). London, NY: Berg.
26 Vishmidt, M. (2008). The cultural logic of criticality. Journal of Visual Arts Practice, 7(3), 253-269.   DOI
27 Wilson, E. (1987). Adorned in dreams. Berkeley: University of California Press.
28 Zelenko, L. S. (1981). Is fashion art?. American Artist, 12, 87-88.
29 Negrin, L. (2012). Aesthetics: fashion and aesthetics - a fraught relationship. In A. Geczy & V. Karaminas (Eds.), Fashion and art (pp. 43-54). London, NY: Berg.
30 Entwistle, J. (2013). The fashioned body (K. Y. Choi, Trans.). Seoul:Hansung University Press. (Original work published 2000)