• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권5호
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• pp.752-765
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• 2022

Clothing, as a signsystem, implies many different meanings according to different circumstances. Korean fashion designers' designs also imply various meanings. Therefore, the purpose of this study is the exploration of Korean fashion designers' design characteristics through Greimas' Semiotic Square. As sublimity is the most representative characteristic of modern fashion design, this study discusses the in-depth aesthetic meaning innated in Korean fashion design through the semiotic square proposed by Greimas. To fulfill this goal, Korean fashion designers were sought after on the internet; consequently, four Korean designers became subjects for the analysis. Their collections were analyzed according to predefined criteria adopted and modified from previous studies. Sublimity characteristics were applied to Greimas' and Floch's semiotic squares for further interpretation. Results of the study indicate that sublimity, which is typically found in Korean fashion designs, varies depending on different points of view. In terms of culture, this study discovered a relationship of contrariety between sublimity and beauty. This finding opposes the theory of Greimas' semiotic square, in which sublimity stands as a contradictory of the technician. According to the culture industry theory, suggested by Held, the technician is an implication of sublimity. Through a technician, sublimity may pose as a complementarity or implication of beauty. Finally, sublimity might substitute beauty as well; furthermore, it constitutes practical valorization in the semiotic square of Floch. Moreover, the artist present as a ludic valorization stands as a contradictory, while art, serving as a utopian valorization, enacts as a contrary.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.296-308
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to understand Qipao, that Chinese traditional women's cloth, and analysis the aesthetic characteristics of that. Joining WTO in 2002 and 2008 Beijing Olympic made China get the attention by the world and get the opportunity that advent of China style. Chinese fashion cultural contents have abundant meanings in internal or external, therefore characteristics aesthetic of Chinese traditional fashion had much influence in world fashion design. Qipao that has influence in contemporary fashion design could be used special fashion design data for China market. A variety of literature and prior researches for Qipao's history and transition process was studied. Internal and external documents, fashion magazines, internet information were investigated to study features of Qipao. Total 20 seasons fashion collections from 2000S/S to 2009F/W was examined, and selected 22 brands that showed Qipao style, after then extracted 418 photos among them. By the seasons, Eit showed 193 pieces in S/S and 225 pieces in F/W, and was put to practical use in F/W season than S/S. The results are as follows. The contemporary fashion collections shown in the Qipao style silhouette, detail, color, material, pattern and the results obtained by each, were in all respects diversity. In silhouette, including traditional tight silhouettes, 'H' silhouettes, boxy silhouette was such a variety. The five colors traditionally preferred color from the color was more of a tendency to be gorgeous. Modern reinterpretation of pattern designs by graphic pattern that has emerged. Also, shown in a contemporary fashion collection Qipao style leather material in application utilizing the glossy feel of a plastic material and has emerged feeling.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.7-16
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• 2017

One of the essential characteristics of Lewis Mumford's architectural criticism is the coherent emphasis on symbolism. Such emphasis stems from his understanding of city and humanity in the context of civilization: first, that the architecture symbolizes institutions of urban civilization; second, that the technical aspect of human nature should be balanced with its artistic aspects. Mumford believed that each architectural type requires an appropriate symbolic expression corresponding to its purpose and that a new symbolic expression, in a new cultural context, should replace the conventional expression. He took symbolism for an intuitional expression, and read multi-layered meanings of architecture: 'practical function' by way of rational reason and 'symbolic function' by way of intuition. He pursued a balance between practicality and beauty to rectify the situation of modern civilization, in which symbolism, the expression of its intuitional aspect, is in crisis. Ultimately, for Mumford, the essential task of architectural critic is of the interpretation of symbolism, aiming at the correspondence and communication between the architect(artist)'s intuition and critic(interpreter)'s via the media of symbol. The critic can play some privileged role of interpreting even symbols unintended by the architect. The ideal architectural critic, after all, would be the one who is able to understand the city, technology and human beings in the perspective of civilization and to interpret the architect's artistic expression in its highest form through intuition. Mumford established himself as such a critic and evaluated the status of aesthetic accomplishment of his contemporary architecture and technological civilization, giving emphasis on the artistic practice in architecture as a solution.

• 복식
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• 제58권4호
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• pp.113-127
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• 2008

Artificial lights have effected the changes of art and fashion concepts as well as human life since the invention of electric light bulb in late 19th century. Artist and designer have had more interested in these artificial lights as the development of digital technology and the change of millennium and they have tried to apply the lights into their works. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of contemporary fashion design using artificial light as a medium. Artificial light for fashion design means the light using luminescent material like phosphorescent and fluorescent materials or in combination with electroluminescent digital technology or the light that can be perceived as images when light projects from media using a light projector or other digital equipment. Fashion design using this light type can change colors or form temporarily and it can playa role as a gadget for hm or as equipment to provide information much as a computer monitor does. And designer can create virtual patterns on the surface of clothes, or virtual fashion like a 3-dimensional holography in empty space. In these fashion designs, the virtual image of light is substituted for physical formative elements in fashion, and the viewer can experience an ambiguity between reality and virtuality. The results of the study were as follow; The formative characteristics of those fashion designs were identified as visibility, indeterminacy, integration and virtuality. And they reflected the internal meanings; the persue of protection and safety, the search for experiment and innovation, the will for interaction and communication and the desire for the deviation and fun.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.119-127
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• 2010

This study investigates the examples of artistic intervention especially on the surface of architecture as a meeting place of art and architecture. Artistic intervention demonstrates the possibilities for the meaningful integration of arts into architectural spaces. This study summarizes the characteristics of artistic intervention on the surfaces of architectures as follow; first, the artistic intervention is applied to the broad ranges of designs including public art, architectural design and sign design that establish identities and unique characters to the spaces. Second, the artistic intervention on the surfaces is conducted by the participation of the various fields of artists, i.e. painters, installation artists, graphic designers and landscape designers. The artistic intervention is also conducted by individual collaboration between artists and architects as well as by the forms of public art of art-in-architecture program. Third, the artistic intervention on the surfaces is expressed using the complex combination of images, colors, patterns, and texts. They are applied to enhance the aesthetic and symbolic characters of buildings in public arts, to improve the visual characters of architectural design with graphics, colors, and patterns, as well as to increase communication skills and cognitive effects of sign design with letters and colors on walls and floor surfaces. Fourth, the artistic intervention is also applied on the surfaces to encourage people to communicate historic and symbolic meanings related to the locations and functions. Thus, graphics on the architectural surfaces could provide a public space, with which people could share common feeling on public arts. As a conclusion, the study finds that artistic intervention either as artworks or as elements of architectural design can not only enhance the aesthetic quality of architectural space but also expand the techniques of design representation. In addition, the artistic intervention can contribute to create a new realm of design where artists and architects work together to enrich our surroundings.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.155-168
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• 2006

The purpose of this study focusing on the gather decorations shown in the modern fashion was to review needlework techniques and design features of gather decorations and thereupon, analyze the aesthetic characteristics of gather decorations shown in designers' works to examine the gather decoration trend in today's fashion. First, the decorative features of gather decorations different from the conventional costumes are shirring, lace and trimming combined or shirring repeated. Second, in view of sensualism, the gather decorations seem to play a role of enhancing the exposure as a mode of expression, while the indirect exposure or beach is mixed with the materials to widen the range of gather decoration expressions. Third, in terms of history, the conventional decorative techniques are combined with new techniques and materials to create a fantastic and romantic mood different from the conventional costumes. Fourth, in view of rhythms, the wave line of the rim for gather decorations serves to express some vivid effects; on the human body, its monotonous plane repetition will turn into a new expression or a voluminous physical sense of motion. However, since expressions or meanings of the gather decorations are much diversified, they should not be regarded as simple decoration details. Our modern designers searching for new expression of creases use unique structural forms to explore the possibility of creative gather decorations. In all, since gather decorations seem to be significant as unique details conducive to a structural pragmatism and aesthetics, it is deemed necessary to continue to develop gather decorations.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권7호
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• pp.828-840
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• 2011

Fine art and clothes have been closely connected since art became part of civilization. However, there relationship was one-sided rather than exchanging the essence of each other. In the $20^{th}$ century, modern art began to change. Artists started intervening clothes in their work as conceptual tools. In the 1960s, Marcel Duchamp started to study 'what is fine art?' He tried to perform anti-aesthetic work that denies traditional types and contents of fine art by reconsidering a concept of fine art that started a new chapter of conceptual art in the late $20^{th}$ century. Conceptual art is about concepts and ideas of the work rather than aesthetic and material concerns for the challenges traditional ideas. Conceptual art asks audiences for more active reactions. For these reasons, semi logical ideas and clothes became very important to conceptual art. This study categorizes and analyzes various roles of clothes in conceptual art. Conceptual arts since 1960 were studied in this research and the works of clothes were intervened were analyzed. The types of using clothes in conceptual art can be divided into 'ready made,' 'intervention,' 'data type,' 'language,' and 'action and process.' The different types were mixed together rather than used alone. Conceptual artists tried to deliver the characteristics and attributions of modern society through clothes. They expressed criticism of political society, anti war movements, absence caused by death, new lives, violated femininity, changed meanings of marriage, and absence of individual rights under the social system in their work. Clothes played their roles as concepts of various things including violated femininity, illusions of politicians, autocracy, new lives, social systems, and regulations.

• 복식
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• 제57권7호
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• pp.70-83
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• 2007

Contemporary fashion design has been made a new attempt to extend restricted expressions through fusion with other genres in art. The recognition of fashion has recently been changed not only product but as a piece of work in specific value, concept and meaning created by fashion designer. It is observed that the contemporary fashion design has a notion to persue formative intentions and manners of Conceptual Art in Post-modern era. This study is to define this region of fashion design represented in cultural phenomena as 'Conceptual Fashion', also analyze the formative feature of this from a point of view in Conceptual art. The results which are analyzed according to outward techniques and forms, meanings and elements immanent in aesthetic contemplation of conceptual fashion lead to four distinctive things in such as anti-form, intervention and appropriation, metaphor and detour, process and series. The intrinsic values in conceptual fashion through aesthetic contemplation are indicated the four significant values in the following: the pluralistic interpretation, the parody and amusement, the pursuit of essence and truth and the participation and interaction. Conceptual fashion design is appeared complex not doing separate through classified formative features previously. And It has been evolved as a indeterminate concept which is able to variable elucidation by a non-player, as a instrument for communication on fashion culture which is aggrandized. The purpose of this study is to present of theoretical foundation about Conceptual fashion design and also to make proper understanding about interrelationship between contemporary fashion and art.

• 만화애니메이션 연구
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• 통권23호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2011

본 논문은 최근 아카데미 단편 애니메이션 상을 수상하며 국제무대에서 객관적인 작품성을 인정받은 숀 탠의 애니메이션 에 나타난 은유적 표현을 분석하였다. 단편 애니메이션 은 내용적 시각적인 면에서 많은 부분이 은유적인 방식으로 표현되어 있다. 분석의 방법은 언어체계를 기반으로 하는 '개념적 은유 분석틀'을 이용하여 스토리와 시퀀스를 분석하고, 개념들이 구조화될 때 파생되는 시각적 차원을 분석하기 위하여 '시각적 은유 분석틀'을 이용하여 캐릭터를 분석하였다. 본 논문에서는 애니메이션이 관객과 소통하는 방식을 기존의 다양한 관점 중에서 은유라는 광범위한 의미에서의 언어적 대상을 통해 애니메이션이 자신을 실현하는 방식, 애니메이션이 자기 조직화하는 양상을 고찰함으로써 밝히고자 하였다. 애니메이션에서 은유는 파편과도 같은 이미지들 간의 연계와 총체성을 생산하고 관객에게 창조적 소통을 유도하는 본질적인 수단으로 기능한다. 애니메이션 에서 다양한 방식으로 실현되는 은유들의 시동 동기로서 작용하는 본질적 의미는 현대인이 느끼는 상실과 그리움의 정서이며, 열차, 병뚜껑, 음식, 물품 처리소, 좁은 틈새 공간, 소속을 알 수 없는 분실물을 통해 작품 전체를 관통하는 의미로 작용하고 있다. 이와 같이 작품 분석을 통하여 알아본 은유의 기능은 우선 미적 기능으로서 간결미와 신선미를 준다. 또한 경제적 기능으로서 장황한 내용을 함축적으로 표현하며, 여러 가지 의미를 한꺼번에 내포한다. 그리고 창조적 기능으로서 은유가 새로운 의미생산의 도구로서 사용되었다. 즉 애니메이션은 단지 어린 연령층을 대상으로 한 오락적인 장르만이 아닌 사유와 소통의 도구로서 보다 폭넓은 대중들에게 감동을 전달할 수 있는 매체이며, 이러한 다양하고 깊이 있는 의미전달을 위한 장치로서 은유적인 표현이 사용되었음을 알 수 있다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권5호
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• pp.649-661
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to analyze the inner meaning and outer from of the uniform from a historical perspective. As a research method, this study investigated the significance of the meaning and farm of the uniform in history with a focus on the classification suggested by a Japanese scholar, Okuhira Sitse, and analyzed them by design elements. In the theoretical study, the uniform was divided into formal, working and collective uniforms according to the purpose of wear. As results, the plasticity of the uniform was analyzed as the concept involving: authority representing the power and influence within the organization as a inner moaning; differentiation from the rest by expressing the culture and ideology within the organization; cohesiveness among the wearers as members of the specific organization and the binding nature in effect; reliable images to customers due to the appropriate form of dress related to the specific business and controlled self expression; and aesthetics characterizing a given era as a form of aesthetic pursuit. The elements of these inner meanings were translated to the outer form of functional practicality and simplified design, which appeared as the simplified' suit' in a female uniform in workplaces.